Видео

I don't get up on the walls, that's for Paul and the guys to do. Paul always says he's like a cat and knows his capabilities. - Tim O

Thanks for watching. :)

Good question. I don't believe we were required to use a vapor barrier under the footing. Is that a new requirement in CA? I'll check in with the building department here in OR when I get a chance.

In the system we built in the video, the footing and stem wall are tied together, so they should be poured on the same day. There were two concrete trucks that showed up that day. As Paul mentions on the video, we are trying to get the footing and about a foot of the stem wall filled with stiff concrete. Once the 2nd truck arrives (which should closely follow the 1st truck) we filled the stem wall to the brim and may increase the slump of the concrete by adding a little water. Paul talks about the mono-straps in the video. The mono-straps are used to tie the footing and stem walls together enabling us to do just one pour. Hope that helps. :)

Great!!

Thanks!

Thanks Ken!!

Good question about the mudsill dimensions. Yes we did use different sizes. I believe we used 2x8 pressure treated lumber for the stem walls with the joist hangers and 2x6 for the end walls. We used 2x8 because the joist hangers needed to be flush with the interior wall and we wanted the mudsill to extend as close as possible to the outside of the stem wall. If you look closely, there is a gap between the 2x8 and the outer edge of the stem wall. Paul later cut long strips of pressure treated lumber to fill in those gaps. For the 2x6 end stem walls we just needed to be flush with the outside of the stem wall as it supports the sub floor and the 2x6 bottom plate of the wall, so really didn't need 2x8 material. The interior stem wall that runs parallel to the joists we used 2x4 pressure treated lumber. Two 2x4 firewalls are being built on top of it. We used 2x4 because we need an air gap in between the fire walls and because we are building 2x4 walls above. See our next video "Building Walls for a (Duplex) House" for more info. Hope that helps.

This is a good question. Here is Paul Rea's response: I have been questioned a number of times why we place the top of the floor joists flush with the top of the mud sill and do not place the floor joists on the mudsill entirely. To answer this I will remind folks of what we are trying to achieve with a foundation and a subfloor at least in our application. The concrete must be a minimum of 6 inches above the backfill and the dirt must slope away from the building. I prefer to put foundation vents at the top of the stem wall and they are 8" tall. I don't like to build wells around the vents so basically the dirt comes to the bottom of those. This puts the mudsill around 10 inches off the backfill. If I place the joists on top of the mudsill this makes the distance to the finish floor around 20 inches (three steps) from the dirt. If I drop the joists inside, this knocks about 9 1/2 inches off of that total. I am required to have a minimum of 18 inches from the bottom of the floor joists to the ground in the underfloor area. My combination of 8 inch high footing and 24 inch high wall equals 32 inches. Add the mudsill and you are at 33 1/2. dropping back down the depth of the joists gets us to 24 inches of underfloor clearance. We could have poured a smaller footing and a shorter stem wall but this works out to be a comfortable combination. Thanks for the question.

We are in Springfield Oregon. Thanks for the positive comment.

Thanks!! :)

Engineered floor joists can span longer distances. They may be easier to install. We had to use two 2x10's per row instead of just one floor joist per row. They are supposed to be less likely to split, shrink, twist, warp, or bow. The manufacturer may also provide a warranty which you won't get with the 2x10's.

@@buildinghouses thanks for the info! is this at all a common practice with a crawl space home? Or kind of unheard of in that realm? And what might guy expect double triple or so the cost of dimensional? Thanks again

Another factor to consider is the cost of labor for installation of the joists. The engineered floor joists are easier and quicker to install so if you hire it out, the labor may be cheaper. Paul is a construction instructor at a community college and we were giving his college students hands-on training so labor and time were not a factor. Back in late 2021 early 2022 when we were constructing this building, the 2x10's were $1.40 a foot and engineered trusses were $3.80 a foot. We built another building in 2022/2023 and the engineered trusses were still at least two times more expensive. The 2x10's used to be the common practice before the engineered joists came along.

@@buildinghouses gotcha thank you. Is there a certain amount of days you want to wait before building on top of a raised foundation for the concrete to settle?

Thanks for the positive comment. 😀

Take a look at our other video "Framing a Crawl Space Underfloor". Paul describes how to frame out an access hole in the video. Thanks for the comment.

@@buildinghouses thanks. I watched the video. What I am talking about is a horizontal access through the stem wall. Can you explain that please?

Sorry for the late response. I talked to Paul. He reminded me that on this duplex building the stem wall is part of the fire wall. So you can't have access between the buildings because it would compromise the firewall. The firewall is discussed on the "Building Walls for a (Duplex) House" video and it is discussed on the "Rolling the Trusses (How to Put Up Trusses)" video.

Thanks!!!

They are Simpson hangers. They are top flange 2x10 hangers but I'm not sure what specific type we used.

Thanks!!

Thanks so much for the positive comment. Paul is great teacher. :)

Thanks for the positive comment

Yes they are all rookies. They are college students at Lane Community College in Oregon. They are part of the Construction Technology program there. Paul Rea is their instructor. We give the students "hands-on" opportunities at a real job-site. And yes students should be wearing their safety glasses. :)

Paul is a great teacher!! Thanks for the positive comment. :)

On a two story duplex we are building the plans had the firewall be two 2x6 walls with a 1 inch air space in between the walls. The plans had just one layer of 5/8 sheetrock on both sides (instead of two layers on each side of two 2x4 firewall as shown in the video) There are generally many options to satisfy the code. I would check with your local building department to strategize which options you can use to satisfy the code. Good luck.

1) Yes, once excavation is done, compacting the whole area especially where the forms will go is a necessity. 2) The plumber puts a plumbing pipe in the footing, a small one for the water line and a larger one for the sewer line before the concrete is poured.

The pipe installed in the footing is larger than the water line and sewer line. After the concrete cures for a few days and the footing form boards are removed, the plumber can then run his water line and sewer line through the footing.

What has been other folk's experience in the field with pressure treated lumber?? Does mold still grow??

Thanks for the positive comment. We appreciate it.

Glad you liked it!

I'm glad you enjoyed it. We appreciate the comment.

We had built two other buildings in 2019-2020 with the same treated sill type. We haven't noticed any smelling. Thanks for the comment. :)

Paul is a good teacher. He is a college professor for the Construction Technology classes at Lane Community College in Eugene, Oregon.

Good luck with your project.

Thanks Vinny, glad it was helpful. 😃

Thanks Grant!!

Thanks Peter!! Love you and Molly as well.

Yes, as part of their price, the truss company usually includes one hour for their truss truck to hoist the bundles. If it takes longer they may charge you more. -Tim

Our truss vendor doesn’t. The trusses show up on a roll off trailer and are left on the ground.

We used Mason's Supply for the monostraps and spreader cleats. It looks like there is one in Salem. There are also 5 around the Portland area. Good luck on your project!!!.

@@buildinghouses Appreciate the quick reply. I'll check them out. Thank you!

@Dlux DIY were you able to buy the mono straps from mason supply? We are in Independence OR and doing the same thing as you, but they wouldn’t sell to us as homeowners. Any other place you found them? Good luck on your project!

@@andreawagner3954 I was told the same thing as you. I ended up finding them at Kilgore Blackman's on S Commercial in Salem. I'm actually finishing up my forms this week and pouring next Tuesday! GL on your project as well!

It is a college construction class getting some hands-on experience. :)

Glad you think so! Thanks for watching.

Hi Robert. I looked back at my records and we bought the form boards back in 2019 for a total of $725.00. In this video this was our 3rd time using these form boards. We have since used them on a 4th building. If you can get a good deal on the form boards it may be cost effective for a single use? Maybe you can resell them??

No, we just put a plastic sill sealer under the mud sill.

@@buildinghouses oh cool okay

Thanks for the positive comment. The students have expressed appreciation for the “hands on” experience. 😊

Crawl space area is not too low because stem wall is nice and high. Pretty easy to move around while underneath. Of course you do have to crawl, but that is why it is called a “crawl space”. 😜

@@buildinghouses lol it should be called a back space because the only way I'm able to work on anything down there is on my back looking up and sliding around on my back.

I wouldn’t do this without putting a concrete pad on the floor and these us a mechanics sled to get around in the space

First thing I noticed in the thumbnail…was wondering what all the hangers were nailed into.

Yep, we east coast guys start our framing on top of the foundation wall and the we use piers and girders in the crawlspace instead of a pony wall.

Thanks!!

No more than 4 ft distance between anchor bolts.

If we put the joists on top of the foundation wall then the building would be a lot higher off the ground (would need to build steps to get to the front door). To get the same height, more excavation might be needed, or maybe a shorter foundation wall. Using hangers is a simple solution.

Thanks. Will take that into consideration for future videos. 👍

@@buildinghouses 😁