- Видео 20
- Просмотров 20 899
Kang
Добавлен 31 авг 2013
Via Comici Dimai - Cima Grande, Tre Cime di Lavaredo, Dolomites
ONSIGHT SPOILER WARNING!
The Via Comici Dimai is one of the most historic routes in the Dolomites, the first route established up the north face of the Cima Grande. This video provides footage of all 550 meters of the Comici Dimai route.
Excludes the first 2 pitches which were climbed free-solo. Pitches 9 & 10 were inadvertently linked. Attempted to link pitches 12 & 13, but ran out of rope a few meters shy of the anchors of pitch 13 and had to build an anchor - ropes used were 60m twin ropes.
The descent is not shown but is complicated and easy to get lost on - anyone intending to climb the route should invest in a comprehensive topo of the descent.
Video contents:
0:00 - Intro
0:08 - Pitch ...
The Via Comici Dimai is one of the most historic routes in the Dolomites, the first route established up the north face of the Cima Grande. This video provides footage of all 550 meters of the Comici Dimai route.
Excludes the first 2 pitches which were climbed free-solo. Pitches 9 & 10 were inadvertently linked. Attempted to link pitches 12 & 13, but ran out of rope a few meters shy of the anchors of pitch 13 and had to build an anchor - ropes used were 60m twin ropes.
The descent is not shown but is complicated and easy to get lost on - anyone intending to climb the route should invest in a comprehensive topo of the descent.
Video contents:
0:00 - Intro
0:08 - Pitch ...
Просмотров: 8 088
Видео
Climbing the Dragons Horns on Tioman in Malaysia
Просмотров 1,4 тыс.Год назад
The Dragons Horns are twin peaks which rise above the jungles of Tioman Island in Malaysia. The island is not a typical climbing destination, being better known both domestically and internationally for its sunny beaches and diving. This makes climbing the handful of routes scattered across the Dragons Horns that much more of an adventure, and it certainly provided us with a proper epic across ...
Polish Princess (7b+) - Dragons Horns, Tioman - Malaysia Rock Climbing
Просмотров 376Год назад
Nestled in the dense jungles of Tioman's southern coast lie the twin peaks known as the Dragon's Horns. Improbable as it may seem, several established climbing routes snake their way up these imposing granite guardians of the island. Polish Princess is one such line. Established in 2011 by David Kaszlikowski and Eliza Kubarska, the route is mostly trad, though a smattering of bolts protects ske...
Naga (6b/+) - Dragon's Horns, Tioman - Malaysia Rock Climbing
Просмотров 7312 года назад
The Dragon's Horns dominate Tioman's southern coastline, twin spires of imposing rock which are, more often than not, wreathed in mist and clouds. Several multi-pitch routes are scattered across the different faces of the southern horn, amongst which Naga (6b/ ) is one of the easiest. Climbable either as a mixed (sport/trad) or knee-shakingly runout sport-only climb, the 2 hour uphill approach ...
Chess (7a) - Rock Climbing in Malaysia, Nyamuk Wall, Batu Caves, Kuala Lumpur
Просмотров 1,9 тыс.2 года назад
There's more than first meets the eye at Batu Caves in Kuala Lumpur. Known to tourists for the Hindu shrine cut into the south side of the limestone hill which makes up the Batu Caves rock formation, there are also numerous rock climbing routes in sectors scattered along the perimeter of the hill. Chess is a 7a (French grade) route in the Nyamuk sector on the east side of the limestone formatio...
Under The Table (6c+) First Ascent! Singapore Rock Climbing - Dairy Farm Quarry
Просмотров 3063 года назад
Singapore's only outdoor climbing destination, Dairy Farm Quarry in Bukit Timah Nature Reserve. Under The Table (6c ) is a variation of My 2 Favourite Fingers (6c), with several harder moves to start before it rejoins My 2 Favourite Fingers at the 3rd bolt. Starts from a new set of anchors just left of where Alarette (6b) turns vertical, the starting moves of Under The Table are bouldery and re...
My 2 Favourite Fingers (6c) Redpoint - Singapore Rock Climbing, Dairy Farm Quarry
Просмотров 1963 года назад
Singapore's only outdoor climbing destination, Dairy Farm Quarry in Bukit Timah Nature Reserve. Starts from a new set of anchors just left of where Alarette (6b) turns vertical, My 2 Favourite Fingers (6c) is a technical layback crack with an interesting start exiting the rooflet immediately above and to the right of the belay anchors. The route offers a style of climbing currently found nowher...
Singapore Rock Climbing - Kikoman (7b/+) Redpoint 3Pβ
Просмотров 4533 года назад
Singapore's only outdoor climbing destination, Dairy Farm Quarry in Bukit Timah Nature Reserve. Kikoman is a beautiful gem of a climb that isn't climbed anywhere near as much as it should be, being located in the Lost World sector which sees the least traffic in the Farm. A nice technical lower sequence leads to a bouldery crux, followed by larger and more dynamic moves and finally a precarious...
Singapore Rock Climbing - Kikoman (7b/+) Redpoint FPV
Просмотров 4553 года назад
Singapore's only outdoor climbing destination, Dairy Farm Quarry in Bukit Timah Nature Reserve. Kikoman is a beautiful gem of a climb that isn't climbed anywhere near as much as it should be, being located in the Lost World sector which sees the least traffic in the Farm. A nice technical lower sequence leads to a bouldery crux, followed by larger and more dynamic moves and finally a precarious...
Swab Test (6b+) First Ascent! Singapore Rock Climbing, Dairy Farm Quarry
Просмотров 1,3 тыс.3 года назад
Singapore's only outdoor climbing destination, Dairy Farm Quarry in Bukit Timah Nature Reserve. Punching straight up where the left nostril of Dairy Farm's Nose would be, Swab Test was the only real choice of name for this route we put up in the year of Coronavirus. First ascent after various bolting shenanigans like blunting the drill bit and the drill running out of battery with 2 bolt holes ...
Singapore Rock Climbing - Judge Not (7a), Dairy Farm Quarry, Redpoint FPV
Просмотров 3704 года назад
Singapore's only outdoor climbing destination, Dairy Farm Quarry in Bukit Timah Nature Reserve. In these turbulent times when all travel has been restricted, having a place to climb outdoors, no matter how sweaty or chossy, has never meant so much to local climbers. Dusting off this relatively short route that transitions from dicey slab around an arete to a hard boulder crux that hadn't been c...
Choss Reel - Cleaning a Forgotten Rock Climbing Route at Dairy Farm Quarry
Просмотров 3514 года назад
As part of a push to re-open neglected/forgotten routes in Dairy Farm Quarry in Singapore, we climbed He Re Jun Zai Lai, a supposed 5c 2 pitch sport route. We will not be trying this again.
Singapore Rock Climbing - Wing of Redemption (7b+), Dairy Farm Quarry Pinkpoint 3Pβ
Просмотров 6404 года назад
Singapore's only outdoor climbing destination, Dairy Farm Quarry in Bukit Timah Nature Reserve. Slightly inclined and leading up to an overhanging roof, the 7b grade Wing of Redemption in the Rock Star Sector is powerful, bouldery and an absolutely brilliant climb. Video shot on 24 January 2020. Topo: www.thecrag.com/climbing/singapore/route/319617429 Music: Sweet Feelings by Thbd soundcloud.co...
Cutting & Replacing Rusty Rock Climbing Quicklinks/Maillons Using Bolt Cutters at Dairy Farm Quarry
Просмотров 4934 года назад
The quicklinks/maillons on the anchors of the 2 pitch sport route Tiger Cliff at Dairy Farm Quarry in Singapore were rusted and in terrible shape, so we mounted a mission with some bolt cutters to replace them.
Singapore Rock Climbing - Dairy Farm Quarry, Decade of Decadence (7b) Pinkpoint FPV
Просмотров 3064 года назад
Singapore's only outdoor climbing destination, Dairy Farm Quarry in Bukit Timah Nature Reserve. The 7b grade Decade of Decadence in the Boring & Meaningless Sector is a short and powerful route with an overhung start and delicately technical crux. Video shot on 17 February 2020. Topo: www.thecrag.com/climbing/singapore/boring-but-meaningless/route/12482509 Music: Bensound - Summer www.bensound.com
Singapore Rock Climbing - Dairy Farm Quarry, Decade of Decadence (7b) Pinkpoint 3Pβ
Просмотров 3434 года назад
Singapore Rock Climbing - Dairy Farm Quarry, Decade of Decadence (7b) Pinkpoint 3Pβ
Singapore Rock Climbing - Dairy Farm Quarry, Acrophobia (6b) Redpoint FPV
Просмотров 9854 года назад
Singapore Rock Climbing - Dairy Farm Quarry, Acrophobia (6b) Redpoint FPV
Singapore Rock Climbing - Dairy Farm Quarry, Baby Star (7a+) Redpoint FPV
Просмотров 3834 года назад
Singapore Rock Climbing - Dairy Farm Quarry, Baby Star (7a ) Redpoint FPV
Singapore Rock Climbing - Dairy Farm Quarry, Good Friday (7a) Redpoint FPV
Просмотров 6514 года назад
Singapore Rock Climbing - Dairy Farm Quarry, Good Friday (7a) Redpoint FPV
Singapore Rock Climbing - Dairy Farm Quarry, Rain Maker (7a+) Top Rope Send POVβ
Просмотров 1,1 тыс.5 лет назад
Singapore Rock Climbing - Dairy Farm Quarry, Rain Maker (7a ) Top Rope Send POVβ
still open ?
@@clarencetan4280 I think "at your own risk" is the best answer I can give unfortunately
easy
awesome video, thx for the information!! How long did you guys need in total with climbing down etc.?
you climb in total stress breathing like that, it happens when you are at the limit of your capabilities
Mr Kang, thank you for this video, my team managed to summit Dragon Horns via Naga route on 7th July 2024 by studying your video. It’s really helpful. We managed to navigate all the way to the top thanks to your video. Thank you again Mr Kang. Hope we can climb together someday.
Congratulations on summiting the Dragons Horns! You are most welcome and I'm very glad that my video was useful to you and your team. I'm always happy to climb with new friends!
@@kang546 if you happen to be around Malaysia, drop us a hello ! Thank you Mr Kang !
Cały czas oddychałeś przez Usta-to nie dobrze!Ja wiem...emocje...staraj się NOSEM i bardziej równomiernie...będziesz się mniej męczył.😊😇
Excellent video! Thank you! Btw incredible achievement of the couple Comici Dimai at that time with their poor tools!
Thank you! Yes it really was such a visionary line for the time!
Hi guys very nice climb, did you rappel from the same route? What’s the first rappel station that you used?
Thanks! We rappelled the same route. In the video around 1:27:19 there are some slings left by previous parties. We added a maillon/quicklink to that setup and rapped from there. Probably want to bring a sling or some cord in case those slings haven't been replaced in recent times.
I thought dairyfarm banned climbing. is it opened?
The situation is the same now as it's always been, as far as I'm aware, which is that technically it's not climbing that is against the rules, but stepping off the trail to get to the walls. Nparks asked climbers not to climb, and there hasn't been any change in their position. What to make of that is something you'll have to decide for yourself I'm afraid.
hi, heard that there was a landslide or something in the area a while back. Do you know if kikoman is still in good shape to climb? thanks! Your beta videos have been quite helpful!!
Yes the belay area is actually nicer now. The climb is unaffected save the first couple of meters, which were never the most fun or interesting anyway. Glad you're finding the videos useful!
Lovely princesses 😄 . . . Fantastic climb and fantastic drone shots...The view is reallllly something.
hi Kang, i rmb hearing of some hold being broken off. Wondering which hold it might have been. Also, during the crux, right after first undercling, and after the third clip, your left hand goes for a crimp on the slopey feature ... is it still there? Or could it have been a rather bad crimp? thanks haha
Hey the broken hold is the big two hand jug at 0:27 to 0:30. It's now a couple of really really bad crimps. Highly recommend stick clipping up to the 2nd bolt if you're just starting to try the route. I haven't done Baby Star in ages so I'm not sure if that left hand crimp on the crux is still there, but I remember it being pretty good! I almost wouldn't call it a crimp but maybe a small side pull sorta hold.
thanks! I was struggling to find any left side pulls during that sequence. Maybe, i missed it, or the sequence just got way more interesting!
Hi, what is the name of the anchor at the top? Looks different from the normal 2 bolts anchor
Hey I'm afraid I have no idea what they are called. They are some form of really expanded U bolt that I've never seen elsewhere
@@kang546Alright, thx
Masyallah soooo beautiful place.... feel like visiting today
Excellent.
Thank you!
Nice!
Thanks!!
Wow…you’re guys are crazy….awesome video 👍😍
Thank you!!
Should make it a paid trip in the future
Nais ahh. Ada jgak pembakar semangat untuk aku terus practice dan practice lepasni🫶🏻 terima kasih
Thank you!
Allez kasyaf!
@@Norhaffizal nnti along bawak kashap naik sana
frigging amazing!! That pitch 7 when you had to go out to the left with the under-cling, incredible! I was stressed and exhausted just watching!! Well done!!
Thanks buddy! Pitch 7 was absolutely amazing. All that exposure while making those moves really made for an unforgettable pitch!
What is your recording setup? It looks great!
Thanks! I use a DJI Osmo Action 1 shooting at 2.7K with the inbuilt electronic stabilisation on. It's extended a bit from my helmet with a short (~7cm) extender.
Why chess ?
No clue! Most route names have some sort of story behind them but I've yet to hear one for this route
With so many jugs, this is no way a 7a. Looks more like a solid 6b+
It's basically 5+ up to the roof. The section from there to the anchors gives it the grade
Solid you guys
Thanks dude! Was a brilliant climb totally worth considering
You bolted this route ?
I was one of a small team of bolters who put up this route. The others were kind enough to let me take the FA.
when the camera hit that overhead rock 😵💫
This camera has taken a lot of abuse like that 😂
Looks like a cool route! 💛
Nice!
Thanks!
looking forward to climb
thank you for doing this.
No worries! I'd recommend leaving this one for a dry day though! It's pretty awful when wet
Super sick send and sicker dyno!
Thanks!
Is the limestone cold
The rock at Dairy Farm is actually granite and not limestone. I wish it were cold, but given Singapore's tropical weather, it's usually anywhere from warm to sweltering.