Видео

No lightning system has ever worked. Anything someone tries to sell will come with endless personal stories.... Australia requires something on boats.. A Faraday cage does work. It's why airplanes can fly near lightning (but usually avoid it). This is a metal box entirely around whatever it is you're protecting. Metal cars do this for the people inside. I was on a boat in the Bahamas where there was a nearby strike. The next day the autopilot wasn't working right, required a restart of the electronics. And as I was enjoying that storm I realized 1. Mostly because it wasn't my boat and 2. If any boat I was one did get struck I should chip in a few thousand bucks to help cover the cost of replacing all the electronics. (If insurance didn't cover it.)

The annual varnishing looks to be about the best way to handle exposed woodwork. I've had a couple of wooden DIY epoxy and glass kayaks. As soon as there is any pinhope crack... water gets in and the epoxy and glass as promised doesn't loose its grip on the wood... but the wood less than a fraction of a mm below it looses its grip on the wood attached to the epoxy.... My method as a furniture (and kayak) builder etc. to handle exposed woodwork is to not have any on my boat. And on a more hopefully helpful note... I've learned cleaning the mold out of my plastic hummingbird feeders that a wash with a high concentration of Clorox (bleach) seems to work but leaves behind more than enough spores to grow right back. A soak in a 25% bleach solution does seem to do the trick. This isn't going to work on your fabrics. The problem with mold is usually when it gets on something like wood, fabric or paper its spores are always left behind. The solution for many things is after killing, cleaning, etc... repaint or varnish the surface trapping it. The other thing I've done (and go on and on about so forgive me if I've already mentioned this.) Chlorine Dioxide. It's more active than bleach, releases a poisonous gas. Basically learn how to use it, drop the tablets in warm water, get out for several hours. Because even with a respirator I 'felt' it in my eyes I got a cheap full face respirator. And of course the right cartridges. I just use the higher concentrations on my boat as it leaves no residue, breaks down in inert salt and I've yet to 'bleach' or fade anything with it. After you air out your boat it will just smell neutral. The first day after a few hours of airing out it smells like a public swimming pool building. Silicone caulking has a bad rap on boats because once it gets on a surface varnish, etc... won't stick. (It thins best with naptha, but paint thinner will also work. I thin it and brush it on seams of DIY tents, tarps and dry bags. It's basically the same stuff they sell at Cotswold, just a lot cheaper. The little brushes are flux brushes available where ever propane torches for plumbing are sold or supplied.

Oooookaaaaay

Looks pretty

One should be aware that a mainsheet attached at the aft end of the boom is also a big potential danger in any accidental gybe as it can snag anything in its path including winches, steering pedistal, and any crew members in that area. The potential for havoc by the mainsheet is very real. During a planned gybe carefully centering the boom by pulling in the mainsheet while easing the preventer before steering through the gybe is also a good practice.

It depends very much on the design of the boat whether the correct point of attachment is actually in the bow. Don’t generalize. This can mean a bad angle. Also, on bigger boats, it might be necessary to install a preventer that can be slacked away in order to pull in the main sheet before a jibe. Just unfasten the preventer can be pretty dangerous (especially in bad sea conditions).

Weevils

Home alone 😃

Would just tieing off to a cleat work?, i know the benefits of having the weight as far out as possible works best, just asking if you don't have a sail boat or masts

I was getting ready, today, of all days, to undertake the undertaking of watching your video, but I could not get past the beginning :) I suggest cutting to the chase.

I've been taught that it's just better to finish things off by having the long end of the line onboard rather than on the pontoon, which keeps it out of the way of kicking into the water (or being messed about with by pet dogs, run over by a trolley or spilt oil or gnawed by rats or anything else), probably not hugely important but why leave anything in a place where people stand if you have a choice to avoid doing so? I've also been influenced by climbing etiquette, where it is considered very important not to stand on rope, because you don't know what may be sharp underneath and even getting dirt or grit into the weave speeds up the wear on any metal gear (like carabiners or friction devices) which the rope may need to run through. 🙂

Please don't take me running i don't like running 🍺

Ye ye ye 2 sailors one cup

Well, it could be Home Alone 2 - "Merry Christmas, ya filthy animal!" 🎄🍻🥂 - Have a good one chaps.

Ah coffee, it can do all sorts of magic stuff...didn't know about the reverse filling....holy moly.... and am also a bit suspicious about the gaspacho, probably a coffee in disguise? Anyway, have a merry X-Mas and fair winds. Cheers ☕

Great to see you working with a strong woman ... oh & good subject matter too! Keep up the good work.

Me me me , that's all I needed to hear Good luck guys

Always enjoy Hazel’s videos. Especially the ones with her dad.

Awesome video guys! Interesting how the stretch really compromised how much force you can put through the line by sweating it.

Competitive much? Rofl

what is this in slug feet per second? (I kid, I can convert metric to human- but it's oddly easier to start from newtons)

Hi, its rather easy to calculate the force of wind by dynamic formula. Mass in kg x speed m/sek squared. So in 10 m/sek is mass x 100 times. In 30 m/sek is mass x 900 times!!!

BOAT = Break Out Another Thousand , I think

Forget about the elasticity of the lines. It doesn't rob you of force applied. It simply provides for progressive transmission of force. Hang a kilogram from a kevlar line vs a rubber band. It will weigh a kilogram both times. 🙂

Good technique for hauling up the sails as a team as well. Not just docklines

Very cool video! What make/model is that load cell?

You should test between static points. The amount of force you can exert on the boat is limited because as you increase the force you just end up sinking the boat a little and that releases tension in the rope.

I used to dock a Pier 39 in San Francisco. Those rubber “absorber” will fail in one day there. A better and much cheaper thing to use is used scooter tires. You can usually get these for free as there is a fee for tossing them.

1kg force is only 10N, not 10kN (1G is 9.8H/kg)

Great topic. Best video yet. We just had high winds in our marina. My wind gauge was measuring 20 to 25 knots. Yet at the bow tie, in the most direct winds I was able to easily undo and fuss around with the bowline. When there are gusts there are also lulls. I was surprised that it wasn’t too difficult. And I also sweated the lines. Sweating lines is how the old schooner sailors shortened the lines they had cleated to the belaying pins. You can see it in the old film clips. Your force generated numbers are good. Lower than I would’ve thought. a 70kg person should be able to put at least 0.6 kN ( 60kg x 9.8m/s^2) so your .85kN is impressive. You don’t look like you weigh 90 kg. The reason sweating works is if you calculate the tension on a wire holding up a painting. If the angle of the line to the nail in the wall is 30° than the tension on each side is equal to the weight of the painting (so 2x total. So whatever your weight is in a hammock, that’s what you’re pulling on each side.) If you tighten the line on the back of the painting until it is a straight line, than the tension would be infinite. This is why sweating works. Brilliant observation at 22:20! That’s exactly why 30 degrees is easy and 0 degrees is infinity. The flip side here being that you don’t get much out of a slack line. Lesson: Don’t bother sweating a slack line, only a tight one. And your stretch component I simply never considered. This is why so often when I sweat a dock line I get nothing out of it. Parbuckling I’ve never considered. I will now! The next step would be to tension a line between two cleats or two of those pilings. Put as much tension on the line as possible, say 5 kN. Now pull on the middle of that line and see how the tension changes. My guess is (if stretch isn’t a factor) initially you’ll get a really big number. (This is the picture wire approaching infinity.) And your one finger? Any object at rest has a balance of forces, applying any force changes that and if friction is low, you should get a change. (Which is why it works on my 13 ton boat but not on my 0.125 ton refrigerator.) When I taught physics I always thought that in additon to the 6 classical machines (lever, wheel, etc...) buoyancy should be included. (boats, and locks). Sails as well. Thanks for this.

Make sure when done properly you get all sweaty. If not you’re not doing it properly. 😅

An oscillating multi-tool with a scraping blade is invaluable for removing sealant. Truly impressive reduction in time, effort, and reduction in damage to the surface.

Less likely to fall in if using cleat on other side of pontoon.

I may be an idiot, but, I cannot see any link to kofi or other contribution possibility. I am an older geeza on an iPad so please help me out! Always enjoyable videos otherwise.

All Hail Ye, a lot of effort you've put into the video, thanks. Will make for great consideration when under pressure (quickly) I need to get my boat into safer position, thanks immeasurably. Some things to practice and train my crew on.

Still not sure why i would need to sweat a dock line. All i got from this is that Karli always puts out maximum effort while Ben needs some competition in order to improve his effort. So in a nutshell, ill let Karli tie up my boat. No hard feelings Ben. Also, I wonder if something like a truckers hitch, which has a loop in the line so you're pulling at 2:1, would be better then sweating?

Interesting but, as a newbie to sailing, I don't even know what "sweating a dock line" means. You didn't explain it unless I missed it in all the mathematical equations somewhere.

While this video was entertaining I fail to see where outside of the concept it's self where any of the statistics or the methodology by which you arrived at them is useful. If your boat has parted a line of a cleat has pulled off the dock I doubt your pull out a hand held anemometer, somehow compare that number with a bunch of other theoretical numbers you've cooked up and then somehow decide what to to with another decision making matrix you've prepared for just such an occasion. You'll in reality do what people did 100 years ago. You'll step on that line a somehow get yourself aboard as quickly as possible and use your winches and windlass to make the boat do whatever you wish. Entertaining video though. Keep it up.

What a great enjoyable video. Thanks for sharing.

Do it before you start 😂!

The sentiments at the end of the video are a mirror of my mind 😁 I have high topsides and with an aft cabin the cleats are very high from the pontoons so there are some sharp angles and.........lots of creeeaaakkkkiiinnng! Little drives you mad more than getting everything set, jumping into bed when it's freezing outside and after 10 mins.....ccrrrreeeaaakkk!! Absolute insanity 😂 I find rags,especially if its raining, move pretty quickly and the hose needs to be big enough for the dockline to move freely inside it or i've found the hose gradually moves and creak-mania returns.. But when it all goes quiet.....Magic!! Keep up the good videos..😎

Two suggestions guys. When I was doing a lot of diving, I had a moustache. I found that a razor trim under the nose - not noticeable visually - stopped the leaking. Also, a quick breath in through the nose sucks the mask on really tight. If you get a good vacuum, it shouldn’t leak. I never had a beard though… As for steaming up, wash the mask in the sea before using it and then spit in it, a good dollop. Work the spit around the lenses with your fingers and then was the mask in the sea again. It works! But don’t ask me why!

Can we please allow for " downloading" ????

Thanks for the great information. Really enjoyed the first and now this second part to the costs associated with buying your beautiful sailboat. I'm curious, but how do you both earn an income? I know you stated, Ben, that you're a carpenter by trade so do you drive to work each day from the marina where you live? Do you work for someone or are you self employed? Does Carlee (sp?) work and if so, what does she do? I'm asking because I see different sailing channels and I wonder what do all these folks do to earn a living while living on a sailboat? I'm a professional chef and my wife and I own a catering business for over 33 years now. I have always wanted to learn to sail but I'm stuck in my kitchen all the time. I cannot work from a computer. I need my kitchen to earn a living. I would love to do what you guys do but I just don't know how we would make a living. Can you make enough off of RUclips to earn all the money you need? I'm guessing not unless you have hundreds of thousands of followers. Just curious but do you have a place to go to if the weather gets really bad while you're living aboard? What books would you recommend for sailing beginners? Perhaps you could do a video on books you've used to learn to sail. You have a beautiful old sailboat. I love the older boats with all the wood and brass/bronze. Plus they're generally cheaper than the new ones. The new boats seem like something Ikea made! How could you guys afford to just work on your boat for the first 6 months you had her without working a job? Isn't that what you stated in the video? Is there an online marketplace/website you'd recommend to find a cheap older boat to restore? We'd be in the same budget area as you guys. I was hoping to get a 40' boat for under 30k USD. I'm pretty handy with wood, electrical and plumbing so I'm thinking I could save us money by doing a lot of the work myself too. I would have to because we're not rich! Anyway, thanks for your answers in advance and sorry for so many questions but I really want to do what you guys do but not sure how to make a living while on the boat. Take care and God bless you both!

I would keep standing rigging on the list to come back to when you can. Need the mast unstepped to really know what's going on, and typically want to replace everything from pin to pin no more than about every 10 years.

Could you maybe give a more detailed accounting of 4000 on docklines? That seems excessive. Extremely.

So the line that is too big is not as elastic? Is it just a different material and composition? Or is it all about the size? If you had that 3 strand in a larger size would it have more stretch? Are they both nylon?

Well I will spend more on the boat ,so I have to do less work on it. However I absolutely agree that you should do as much as you can yourself because this saves astonishing amounts of money. I am in a position to weigh my time vs paying someone doing the work, that does not mean I just throw out money every time 😊 Thanks for sharing your experience ❤❤❤

$100 per week on food??? That’s $7 per person per day???

Excellent video! THANKS SO MUCH for the time you put into this production!