Видео

Love the EOS A2. I am on my 4th one. The EOS 1n is pricey.

I developed my film at Walgreens. The last time i was trying to pick up a set of developed photos, they found a set of B&W photos i had sent and was waiting to be picked up since March. Every photo looked amazing, and the camera i shot the roll with was a Canon EOS-1N.

Can you develop 8 mm films

hi! it can be hard for you to put film in the reel be course you need to kind of round the edges with scissors. gonna be much easier!:)

I have the 1N RS. Fantastic camera, but I usually pick my 1V instead, even if it’s a bit slower.

Thanks for sharing..🙏🏾

@7:40 can you tell us the model name / number of the shutter release, please ?

Rodriguez Amy Taylor Carol Jones Shirley

But EOS1n had 5AF points... 45AF points module was first introduced in 1998 in EOS 3 and later used in EOS1V and up to 1DMkII

Just bought a roll of this and I too am shooting on an F2!

Golly... you never get to the point...

Thanks for a good review. You are the second now that tells about the strangely blurry photos. I am sure it is not you, you can hold a 1/100 steady. One reviewer said that the original model had sharper images and not this blurriness issue. I guess you have not testes the original model?

When you develop expired film that you shot at lower iso, do you develop it as the original iso or the lower iso?

I went to Lowe’s and found a very solid cutting board there. Instead of steel gas or galvanized pipe, I went with a piece of 1” Structural Pipe and the accompanying base fitting as well as an end plug. It looks much better. I also put some Scotch no-slip pads on the bottom of the board as well as on the bottom of my light box to keep everything from slipping. The pipe is 36” but can be cut down with a hack saw or grinder.

What do you use as a light table.

So people shouldn't be too put off by buying old film if the box looks to be in good condition?

Great video I’ve been trying to dslr scan my 35mm since I got it into dslr scanning for 120 (no problems for 120). I have cheap scanner scanner for 35mm which has been working great since I don’t need fancy stuff but unfortunately it’s been on the fritz and been trying to scan 35mm dslr wise and I think my problem was that I was scared to go so slow on shutter speeds (I have Sony a5100) and I was sticking at 1/125 and I couldn’t get images so I went lower at 1/60 and got photos but some digital noise still so long story short I’m going to try all shutter speeds now bc of this video 😂 when you said your shutter is at 2 seconds I was hit with the realization I can to that! Idk why I’ve been hesitant/scared to do so thank you!!!!

Thank you for your video! Firstly, the full name of the product is “Lightmate Lite 2”, not Lightmate 2. Secondly, it's not a spot meter. Its metering angle is 35 degrees, similar to the Voigtlander vc meter ii, making it a wide-angle meter. Spot meters are usually handheld, with metering angles of 1 degree, 5 degrees, or at least 10 degrees. If you shoot enough film, having the shutter and aperture designed in 1/3 steps is actually very convenient. For example, in shutter priority mode, if you use 1/125 shutter speed and metering suggests using F7.1, and your lens markings on the camera are close to F5.6 and F8, F7.1 falls between them. You can then either shoot at F5.6, which will overexpose slightly, or at F8, which will underexpose slightly. This doesn't mean the metering is inaccurate.It provides precise exposure values for your reference. Note that it's a reference. Your creative intent determines your choices. If you're shooting negative film or want the subject brighter, you can choose F5.6. If shooting slide film, you can choose F8. It's entirely up to your creative intent.Don't let your camera's shutter stops limit your ideas. If your lens has continuous aperture adjustment, you should still choose F7.1, which lies between f5.6 and F8. Even if you're using a light meter like the Voigtlander vc meter ii, it also provides intermediate values on the aperture dial, not just full stops, so you still need to consider these factors. Light meters that only display full stops for aperture and shutter settings actually round off to the nearest full stop in their software and display it. Additionally, the red button is for decoration; if you don't need it, you can remove it and install it on the shutter release button of your film camera. This helps with the issue of loose connections with the old-fashioned threaded shutter release interface. Removing the red button won't affect the normal use of the light meter. If the screen is not visible outdoors, you can increase the screen brightness in the settings. The issue of language settings not being saved can be resolved by downloading the latest firmware update from lightmate.pro/support/fwdownload.html. The latest V3.1.0 firmware has added the option of 1/3 STEP or FULL STEP for aperture and shutter speed, and the firmware can be updated simply by using a USB-C data cable.

Don't know if this has been pointed out, but 2:58 I think the green is just how the fluorescent lights show up in this sort of color film

I LOVE the look of this film 👍 I alwats hoped for a color version of Kodak Tri-x and this seems to be that film. I just ordered 50 rolls. 🌞🙏

Are you sure the device can't be confugired to give results in full stops ?

This is an error caused by your own inability to use it. I also saw that you left a negative review for the seller on the Amazon page. Go and change the review for them. It's because you don't know how to use it yourself, not because there is a problem with their product

CHEMICAL REUSE: Can process 16+ rolls of film. Simply recombine used chemistry and add +15sec. for each roll previously processed until you reach 8 min. If a film does not appear fully cleared, process for longer in Df96. It will not affect development. You can find the CineStill developer instructions from the CineStill product page.

I would have to disagree with this video. There are a lot of vintage cameras that use 1/3rd stops and a lot of large format cameras that use more stops and speeds than an SLR 35mm. This light meter has many features that cover 35mm, medium format, and large format. If you get a reading that doesn't line up with your camera or lens then you choose the number closest to the reading it's not rocket science. Also, this is not a spot meter it's a reflective meter. This seems more like a user error than a bad product.

Look at the reflex light meter. Works pretty well.

Wow, I never would have expected these problems. I've been meaning to get one for my Hasselblad. I have a nice little accessory rail for it that I don't use much.

I ordered on the Internet a small portable light meter that was Digital. It cost about $100 Canadian dollars What a piece of junk. It never worked. What a scam.

It's showing one third stops - 1/200 is a third stop slower than 1/250.

I recommend the keks light meter. Compact and simple.

Thank for sharing this ideal. Would you mind advising model número or referente for the smallrig clamp/ball head assembleia? The one I finde in my área are not recommended by sellers to firmly holding a DSLR câmera.

it looks warm and bright, nice

Great video! What you are actually using is “black pipe” which is used for gas. This is a good choice for this project. Galvanized pipe is used for water and is coated with zinc which makes it silver in color. The zinc coating makes it resistant to rust. Galvanized pipe is more expensive.

i picked up a durst c35 enlarger + a bunch of other darkroom bitz, for £20 - and bought a DSLR clamp for £6 and a spirit level thing. What lens is going to be berst for scanning both 35mm and 120, using a nikon d5200 (DX). Thanks.

I appreciate to looking into film a bit and I also respect your opinion, but like mentioned by some comments before, do your research, as some things you say are not doing justice to that legacy company who actually invented the first modern color film and, by the way, also produces the emulsions for some Lomo stock. So, here is the link, read through it, think about it and eventually come up with a new video. I like how you did this video in general. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ORWO Cheers & happy shooting

so lets say ive got some 70 or 80 iso film from the soviet union (expired 1993). what iso should i treat this as?

Hey Eric! Really loving this setup and seriously thinking about building one using the same materials. That said, I've also noticed the shakyness when you were focusing and wanted to ask if you think this could be atributed to the SmallRig Super Camera Clamp Mount. It's fairly cheap so I was wondering if it's reliable in keeping the camera stable. Other than that, I saw that the cutting board is only 0.63" thick. Do you find it enough as well? Again, great idea and it was the most affordable DIY setup I've found, so congrats on that.

Great little fun camera for the budget conscious photographer 📸 I hope kodak produce a 'premium' version of this camera with a better lens and higher quality build materials? I have the 1960s Olympus Pen ee half frame camera, even though it was marketed as a 'budget' camera for the travelling photographer, it's made of aluminium and other metals, has a well engineered solid feel and the lens is a zuiko glass lens which olympus put a lot of the budget into. I've added your channel, hopefully, you'll connect with another film photographer 📸

What film good for indoors for this camera?

push down on the middle of the lid to burp some air out and get negative pressure, it will seal better

Hello! I think I heard you say at around 6:22 that this camera's fixed aperture is at F22. I don't think it is, I thought it was at around F8 from what I've read, while the previous H35 has a fixed aperture of F9.

Great content buddy!

I wish they added some sort of metal weight to the camera, that way it would be easier to not get blurry photos. Although with the cheap plastic the camera might explode on impact after being dropped so who knows. also funny that you mention the quality being similar to the reto camera. The h35 and h35n cameras are actually manufactured by reto, they just pay kodak to be able to use their name on the branding 🥴

Hey! Great video, great review, one thing that I think you should time-step the video, so the viewers can see what you talking about between this 12 minutes (for example: "image quality" 3:08-4:08), that would be really helpful. Keep up man!

Tysm for making this video. Ive been thinking about making one of these for years. Do you have any recommendations for a camera for scanning under $300?

The Picture at 6:08 turned out very good!

AeroColor. Not AeroChrome.

A couple of points: 1. don't snug any of the screws until you have them all in place. I noticed you struggling a bit. 2. If the cutting board wood has all the strips running in one direction, it'd be good to screw and glue some strips on the bottom side crossways to the alignment on the board. You want to prevent warping.

im just curious what makes a photographer a "professional"?

Patterson tanks use more chemistry then steel but the biggest problem is that if they are the slightest bit wet or dirty, they will bind up going on the reel. You must take the reels apart to dry them or let them dry. Water can stay in the nooks and crannies for days causing you greif in the dark. Metal reels are so much better once you spend a couple minutes to learn how to load them.

Hey Eric! These shots look great, love the tones!