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Yeah, I already saw a few things that might be interesting but there’s only so much time

Thanks you’re probably talking about military miniatures in review’s “The model’s guide to the Tiger tank “ a complete and comprehensive guide to modelling the tiger one and tiger two in 1/35 scale when I bought it it was $36.99 CANADIAN.

@JETScaleModels Thanks 🙂

"Thanks for the encouragement! You're absolutely right-it's the effort and attention to detail that make a model stand out. I'm looking forward to seeing it all come together and having it as one of those builds I can really be proud of."🤗

I think that might be half of the problem. The other half is just going through bit by bit and looking at references and reading about some of the variations that perhaps are on this specific Tigerf I I'm trying to portray. That's where some of the issues are coming from. I usually don't have too many problems just going straight ahead builds but sometimes with something new there are some blind alleys one needs to recover from. I guess kids nowadays have kits like the RFM tiger tanks which probably don't even need photo-etch anymore. LOL! Thanks for taking the time to comment and merry Christmas and a happy new year

Thanks so much, Les! I really appreciate your kind words and encouragement. I know it might be a bit of a slow burn, but I’m determined to finish this one off. However I’ll switch it up in the next video. take a break and look at another older series that got stalled. *Squirrel!* Patience is definitely key! Wishing you and your family a very Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year as well. Thanks again for the support from down under! Best regards, Jamie

Hi Jeff, Thanks for the kind words! I appreciate it. You're absolutely right-soldering can be a bit tricky to get the hang of, but it's so satisfying when it comes together. That tip about vinegar is interesting, however it something like that would happen, I might try a different solution. I like to use a copper roll used to absorb excess solder. Its called solder wick or desoldering braid. It's a fine braided copper wire coated with flux that wicks up unwanted solder when heated with a soldering iron. It's incredibly useful for cleaning up excess solder or removing solder from joints during rework. tinyurl.com/yv5dfajv Glad you enjoyed the scratch building too-it’s one of my favorite parts of the hobby. Thanks for taking the time to comment, and I hope you have a great day as well! I really am not having fun with this one and am probably losing viewers but I'm gonna try to see it through. It was one of my first videos on the cahnnel so- I think if I did it today it maybe a bit better. BTW hope to see you getting into posting your vids on a regular basis again- miss it Cheers, Jamie

@@JETScaleModels Hi James, I have heard of the soldering wick. I've seen it used in electronics. I'll have to pick some up and give it a try. I don't worry to much about subscriptions. They come and go no matter what you do. As long as you are having fun, that's what matters. I've been rearranging my space, yet again. With lick, I'll be finished tomorrow. I have a group build that I will be entering starting the first of next month. I want to have everything in place, so I can get right into it. Have a great day. Jeff

@@JETScaleModels Did you get your camera yet? I've been playing with mine quite a bit. I bought a cage to put it in so I can mount it above the bench. I found a program called Smart Shooter 5. I've been playing with the trial version. It's pretty cool. You can see what the camera sees right on the computer monitor. It lets you organize files, change camera settings, take photos, and record video all with a click of the mouse. Have a good one, Jeff

You might be right but I find I have good success with a soft one. But as you can see I did end up using the stiffest brush possible- the fibre glass pen😃 I think what happens. It’s all the variables can make it more difficult. If you don’t put enough hairspray on you put too much on your paint layers too thick stuff like that can affect how it chips

@@orlando.ferreira Yes, the British M3 Stuart “Honey” had a turret basket, but it was only present in the M3 Stuart with later production features. Here are the details: 1. Early M3 Stuart: The early production M3 Stuart (like the British “Honey”) did not initially have a turret basket. The turret interior was relatively cramped, and the crew operated in a standing position with less organized stowage. 2. Later M3 Stuart: As production progressed, turret baskets were added to improve crew efficiency and provide organized stowage for equipment. These turret baskets were fixed to the turret ring and rotated with the turret, making it easier for the gunner and commander to manage their positions. In the British service, depending on the production batch of the M3 Stuart received via Lend-Lease, you may find some with turret baskets and others without. Early British “Honeys” often lacked the feature, while the later M3A1 Stuart incorporated improvements like the turret basket more consistently. If you’re building a specific British M3 Stuart “Honey” Early Production kit, it’s accurate to leave the turret basket out. For later versions, including U.S. variants or upgraded British vehicles, the basket would be included.. I’ve got the new honey from mini art and I’m hoping to make a unboxing video tomorrow so I’ll be posting more about that.

shit- I thought I cropped all that!

I’m well aware of that and do it when needed-just not all the time. It depends on the situation and whether it’s actually necessary for the part I’m working with.

@goforitpainting thanks!🙏

Well, you’re not really breathing it in for the most part if you’re worried about it I guess you could wear one. The only thing I find is that the little fibers can get into your clothes and that can get you itchy so yeah you gotta be careful a little bit about it. It actually is used for cleaning up solder. That’s what it’s original purposes for

@@JETScaleModels if the fibres can get into your clothes and irritate your skin then think about the fibres you can’t see. They will be easy to breath in because you are leaning over the work. I would throw a respirator on. 3M etc - plenty of good ones out there

@@JamesMackenzie-sx2bu I’ve worked as a scenic painter and scenic artist in the movie industry for 30 years. Over that time, I’ve accumulated several respirators and use them as needed. As for the fiberglass pen debris, it’s not something that concerns me. I don’t believe the amount of debris it produces poses a significant issue.Thanks for your concern however I appreciate it!👍

Kind of an obscure topic for someone to write a book about, but that’s great!

Hmm I didn't change any settings when I exported the file- not sure- maybe try again later- youtube may need a bit of time?

Thanks so much for taking the time to comment

@@PainSorrowFury Yes, the newer Leopard 2A7 retains the MTU MB 873 Ka-501 power pack used in earlier Leopard 2 variants, including the 2A5 and 2A6. This power pack consists of a 12-cylinder, 47.6-liter, twin-turbo diesel engine, producing 1,500 horsepower. It is paired with the Renk HSWL 354 transmission, providing excellent mobility and performance. While the power pack remains the same, the Leopard 2A7 includes significant upgrades in areas such as armor, electronics, and crew survivability. These upgrades enhance its overall combat effectiveness without requiring a change to the proven and reliable engine-transmission system.

@JETScaleModels Thank you!

Hi Jeff,Thank you for the kind words and for taking the time to share your thoughts! I’m glad you’re enjoying the build and the details like the wood decals and olive drab paint-it’s been fun to bring those elements together. The wheels were definitely a bit of a challenge, but I agree, the extra effort to fill the gaps and clean up the seam lines really made a difference. Those gauge decals are a lifesaver, aren’t they? They add so much realism without the hassle of trying to hand-paint those tiny details. I think you’d find them incredibly useful on your builds too. As for the rivets, you’re absolutely right-it would’ve been great if MiniArt had incorporated some slide molding here to save us from the tedious work. But hey, what’s a build without a little extra effort, right? Thanks again for your encouragement and feedback-it really means a lot. Wishing you a great day as well, and happy modeling! BEST JET

Well as Harry Callahan says, "A man's got to know his limitations. (Clint Eastwood-Magnum Force)

Thank you so very much- yeah we’re all human right and when we’re working on these things poop happens

thanks so much!