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@@jamesscott5301 I will have to look, if I remember right there is a bracket that comes off of the brake booster that the new proportioning valve bolt to.

@@jamesscott5301 I am still waiting for your parts for the chevelle, so I have not finished the brakes completely.

@@jamesscott5301 I meant I am still waiting for more parts for my Chevelle so I have not finished the brakes completely.

@@ShanPrez your welcome. Sorry I jumped all over the place. But you can use a non-heated seat harness on a regular electric seat. The only difference (I think) is one of the switches might be reversed. I can't say this for sure because I did not test the switches before I swapped harnesses, but it does work. :)

Glad it helped!

Did you run the the seats control module or hook up power and ground straight to power and ground

@BUILTBYBLAKE424 yeah hooking up power and ground made the power functions work. Whatever computers were still in the seat were what i used. Heat/cool and safety features are a different animal however, you'll have to get creative

There are videos on RUclips that show what needs replaced to fix code p1451. I am not sure what code my F150 was throwing when I fixed my canister vent valve solenoid. Your's may be the one near the fuel tank.

Glad to hear!

Your welcome. I made a comment later that you can move the rear staple shifter bracket a little farther backwards towards the rear seat, (I can't remember) to get the bolts or screws more centered. I think it was about a 1/4 inch. It will still work and won't make any difference if you change nothing but I like to keep things neat.

Your welcome. I also found it frustrating trying to figure out what was wrong with my truck and how to fix it. I couldn't find anything on RUclips either.

Very glad I could help. :)

The one thing I still need to order is the stainless fuel return line. That will also depend on if you are going old school carburator, or going with fuel injection. With fuel injection you won't need a return line.

@@scottliggett7073 I’m running a Holley terminator x max for a 6.0 ls. I used the earls vapor guard hose with a Holley efi tank.

@@scottliggett7073looks like I might have to flip my brake line around. I believe I have it to wrong way. And I will have to reshape the section that goes to the valve since my inlet it at the bottom

On my F150 it was easy to twist out and then re-install the old solenoid although I did not fully remove it. I did not install the new solenoid because it turned out to be a wiring issue and I was able to return the new solenoid for a refund. Gotta love, (hate Ford's).

Im having this problem right now. Haven’t found any tricks or answers so here’s to hoping 🤞🏻

Having it right now as well. Have you found any tricks yet

I had the same problem, no information, or the wrong information. Spent quite a while just searching online before I actually found where the dang thing was located after searching all over the truck. I have posted quite a few videos but this one seems to generate a lot of positive comments. Glad I could help. :)

Sorry I didn't catch your question sooner. It just twist out. If you purchased a new solenoid you can see the threads.

@@scottliggett7073 TY for that piece of info

To replace the solenoid just turn it counter clockwise, it basically screws in and out, if you purchase a new solenoid you can see the threads. I even mentioned no tools were required to replace the solenoid. Also, I never had to replace the solenoid because the wires were the problem.

@@scottliggett7073 thanks I did replace mine it runs so smooth now I'm glad I got that engine light and took it to AutoZone and were able to tell me the problem and part number... I want to thank you because I thought this part was under the rear differential... Or under the hood and because of you I was able to locate it under the seat practically THANK YOU!!!

Glad I could help. I must have spent 2 or 3 hours looking for answers on RUclips. No luck. I think I found where it was located by googling an exploded view of the canister vent, then googling the location. Very annoyed by the time I figured out where it was located, also after purchasing the solenoid I discovered it was the wires. At that point out of pure frustration I decided to make a video of exactly where it was to save someone the same headache I had to deal with.

The wiring harness I am using is from American Auto Wire. The advantage is that all the wires are labeled where they go. At this point I have the dash, steering column ,and engine compartment almost completed. I still have to wire up the 2 courtesy lights, center console, and the dome light. I did order new door jamb switches, and I believe these also control the dome light and the center console. If I was doing my own wiring harness that is how I would set it up. Open the door, the door jamb switch completes the circuit.

One suggestion is to go onto RUclips and under American Auto Wire, or Painless Wiring, look for tutorials on where/how the courtesy lights etc are hooked up.

@@scottliggett7073 Thank you

I just got done left hand drill’n em out. Worked like a charm. I use left hand twist drills more than I use extractors.

I don't know if an El Camino would have the same drain setup as a Chevelle. It is pretty safe to bet the cowl drain is exactly the same, so odds are the drain still runs down the rockers, and out the back.

That measure ment is actually 17 1/4" without the killz mat

The only real issue with my truck was the check engine light. After I had it diagnosed the code it was throwing was for vent solenoid. It took a little while to find exactly where the solenoid was, so I posted a video on it's location.

It's call Canister vent valve solenoid sir it's part of the charcoal canister .

Issues it gives are engine check light bad gas mileage and smell of gas those are the symptoms of a bad canister vent valve solenoid I've just changed mines on a 2009 honda civic exl to be exact .

Alot of people think it's the purge valve when they see gas mileage change and smell of gas , I've just changed mines as well which was under my car next to gas tank .

When I bought the Chevelle it came with the car. I would guess it was a aftermarket part. Don't know whether it is an O.E.M. or N.O.S part. I have no idea where the original owner purchased the cowl. It may have been sitting with the car for the last 21 years. I do know it was not taken from another Chevelle. The cowl did fit perfectly though.

Very likely your cowl shoulders, or rockers could be blocked with debris. On both sides of your car, on the inside near the floor, there is a plastic cover that has vents. You can remove the covers and check to be sure nothing is clogging it, over years of sitting leaves will collect and hold water, this is what causes your cowl, and rockers to rust out. Both of my Rockers were filled with "mouse house" material that if I had not removed would have eventually rotted both of my Rockers. Yours should have a vent pull knobs on both passenger and driver side. Remove these and check for debris. While I had both front fenders off of my Chevelle I cut small holes in the Cowl Shoulder to acces the rocker panels to blow out all the crap that had built up, and mice had left behind. I was replacing my Cowl shoulders anyway so did not matter if I cut them up. Not exactly sure how to clean out a rocker, maybe blow air back through the hole in the rocker panel at the rear of the car, then remove what blows forward into your cowl. Could get messy.

I would bet your passenger side is not draining, the cowl is filling up with water, then water may be coming in through the plastic vent near the passenger side floor.

While trying to start, it turned over fast. So it did not Chuck until after he was running, it literally sounded like I had a massive cam in the engine. After I changed the coolant temperature sensor it turned out to be the EGR that was causing all my problems. The EGR will cause your engine to chug while running, I do not know if it will do that while trying to start. Usually that is because of timing, or a weak starter. Possibly a cam position sensor?

I meant it did not chug, did not mean "chuck" spell check sucks

Thanks for responding. This is only on a warm start. It starts up perfectly after sitting for a few hours and runs great other than at idle and warm start. Could that be associated with a timing issue?? I did however find the wires to the CTS hacked up some which may… be part of my issue. Going to test electrical tonight after I take alternator off

I planned on replacing the CTS, EGR, PCV, and Cam sensor. Hopefully one of those will be the culprit. I have already replaced all spark plugs, injectors, intake manifold, cleaned throttle body, cleaned MAF.

I did find out after changing the coolant temp sensor I also needed to change the EGR valve. Hard to say if both were at fault. I am leaning more to the EGR being the culprit for not wanting to start when hot, and a ruff idle.

I'm doing a 67 GTO right now and the lines routing you have here do work for my car front LH side goes on the bottom Front RH side goes on the front

Yes, everything in the video comes with Right Stuff brake and fuel lines. I also ordered the stainless steel transmission cooling lines that go to the radiator. :) I can see what size wrenches are used on the fittings if that helps? I am not sure what size the lines you have on your setup. I believe my main fuel line is 3/8 and all the other lines, brake, and transmission lines are 1/4 inch.

I probably do somewhere in all my receipts, couldn't find it. I believe that the stainless steel brake line kit, and the stainless steel fuel line kit are not sold together. You can call Summit racing and tell them exactly what you are looking for. I actually have Summit, Jeggs, and several other sites saved to my phone. Makes figuring out what company I ordered something from annoying sometimes. The stainless lines are more expensive than the aluminized steel lines from the factory but the stainless should never have any issues. I could give you summits number but on one receipt there are 5 different number, each a different location and state. You can go to there website and select "call us now". Hope that helps.

The number on there site is 1-800-230-3030

Thanks scott, very helpful. I'm online looking @ Summits site now. I believe you are correct bout them being sold seperately as kits. Mine is a 66 el camino. Any videos of your car completed or are you still working on it? Thanks again

@@frankabel5064 yep, still working on the car, and it is finally running. Actually I should say I finally got the motor broke in. The body is permanent bolted back to the frame, and almost all the body work is now done. I just got in the driver side cowl shoulder that took about 8 month to get after being on backorder and is now ready to be welded back in place. I do have videos on RUclips on my progress. I built a plywood tilter, stripped the bottom of the car, sprayed Epoxy primer then sprayed on raptor liner. It looks great.

@@frankabel5064 ruclips.net/video/bcsAykcbyQQ/видео.html