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@@BustedKnucklesBuildsTexas yeah, mine was old and cracked, I got mine at rock auto I believe.

@@Trikekid84 Thank you !! I will try there 👍

@@crown8479 😂

@@oaksletterman279 yes, it will!

@@Trikekid84 and do you think a 28mm carb would work for it. Thank you for responding

or a 26mm

@@oaksletterman279 28 is too big, actually I think stock 200x is a 24mm and even that is an upgrade. My 200x had a 28mm but it was hard to start, 26mm works better. So I’d say get a 24mm stock 200x carb or a china Nibbi/OKO 24mm flat slide.

Oh yes! I’m 6’5 about 210 just picked one up yesterday after riding my buddy’s over the weekend, it will get up and move!

@@Bikelifeboy-sz5en depends how deep it is but heck yeah! Throw your feet up and pin it!

@@MckMck-kg5os kinda but for pit bike use it’ll be fine. Still fun and it’ll still move you. I’m 5’11” but only 160lbs.

@@OakvilleConcreteContractor thanks man! It was fun and I will be doing another one soon that makes a little more power. Right now I’d like to put a better carb on here but not too big since intakes are expensive and it’s all stock. But a 2 barrel that works correctly would be an upgrade. The one barrel has some issues, still drivable though.

@@danraymond1703 if we hurry on the lift, about an hour. On the ground probably 2hrs.

@@Todd-o8n that is odd, most inline 6s this size take 6 qts. Mine takes 5 last time I changed it.

@@Trikekid84 Imagine MY surprise at this turn of events. I was lucky to have the extra quart as I was doing my truck too, but had to get the extra quart later for the truck. I daily drove a 63 Biscayne 6 banger from 1990 to 99, but got the Belair and parked the 'Cayne. It's always been 5 qts with the filter, but is now 6. Reality appears to be flexible. 🫨

@@Todd-o8n maybe your dip stick tube is loose and pulling out? Tap it down until you feel it seat.

@@Trikekid84 Thanks, but I've done that.

@@onion._.z2665 yeah, 350x, I think they look better than the stock ones. And yeah I’m still here, will be posting more. As far as 200x things not sure, working on a different one currently and after that I need to split my case for the 3rd time. Just to fix a dang leak.

@@Trikekid84 i’m glad to hear, i’m definitely subbing. how much did you have to modify tho? like tank or frame wise?

Nothing besides drill the holes in the new plastic since they don’t come with holes. You can still buy they new from Meyer. I was going to do the 350x/250r front fender too, and a number plate, make it look real sporty haha.

@@Trikekid84 ah gotcha. yeah i’m putting a 350x headlight fairing with dual LED’s with rectifier along with the 86/87 200x black front fender. i was gonna do the 86 250r front fender until i started started watching bvc trikes a few years ago. thank you for the response, i’m gonna start making videos that no one has done on the 1st gen 200x’s. mainly little stuff like what we’re talking about really. gonna be trying out 28mm nibbi carb along with my full rebuild. it’s gonna take time but i’m definitely gonna shout you out for the contribution

@@onion._.z2665 sweet. Don’t forget the ac-dc box otherwise it’ll eventually burn out the led. They are cheap on Amazon. Nibbi carbs are great, I had a similar china carb on mine. The 28mm was great but it was just difficult to start, so I switched to a 26mm, it’s still a flat slide and bigger than stock and it’s been good after getting it jetted right. I forgot what my jetting specs are but I can let you know, pretty close to stock still. 35 or 38 pilot and a 112 or 110 main. Actually had to make the pilot a little leaner than stock but China carbs are always a little off from an actual keihin.

@@deakin2880 why does that make a difference?

@@danielsimpson2814 I’d say so, it’s probably just the paint. It’ll do that for a few rides. Do some heat cycles, go easy at first, let it cool down, ride again a little harder, do lots of engine breaking where you just accelerate and decelerate, that will break in the rings well.

I made it to the end of the driveway and beyond!

Glad I could help! I’m starting to build a more performance version of the 230.

No issues, but we did put a 26mm keihin carb on it off my three wheeler.

Planning on it, need to finish editing, but need to take it all apart once again, case halfs leak when they didn’t before, but they were welded so that’s probably why.

Not sure but I bet you can make one fit.

Is there anyone that I can send my kicker gear to have that done?

I would bring the engine to your nearest rebuild shop. Would be cool to see one in a 55.

I’ll have to do this again now that I got a cam kit with springs and I fixed the kicker issue. The bike has a lot of top end now.

I want to put a 20hp Briggs or predator in my 71 Olympic so then I’ll have a 4 stroke with electric start. A small v twin would be cool as well but would like to keep the weight down.

@@Trikekid84 Interesting thought but you just know there's a good reason all snow sleds are 2 cycle. Drove sleds for about 6 or 7 years some 40 years ago and I hated having to mix gas and oil. I think it was Yamaha that came out with the first sleds that you didn't need to premix you just added oil to one reservoir and gas to the gas tank. I'm sure they are all engineer that way now. I am from the Fred Flintstone era of snowmobiling. Extremely simplistic, but cheap and affordable.

I'm curious how much top end you would gain. This cam I got really helped mid range to top end. Still adjusting and fighting my china 28mm carb.

@@Trikekid84 i read that the 26-27 was better 26 had less problems

@@winterholdsguard1977 yeah, stock carb still has good response where my bigger carb had less response but pulled longer in the rpms.

That's actually how the bearings are made, besides being broken. I'm using the case halfs I have because they are still good. 👍

Yeah, the 670 mach is a great sled. This engine will last me a long time since I'm not going to be putting a lot of miles on, maybe some classic lake cross racing but mostly light trail riding. I think the 800s have better oiling provisions, i'm going to look into that. But yes the last year's mach z's are the ones worth getting, but cost more $$$. They sound cool, but it's a heavy sled.

I had to take out the part where I sync carbs because that was too much to handle lol

I know a guy in Green Bay who did it, $1000. Then I bought 3 freshly re plates cylinders from millinium tech, and new spi pistons, rings, and gaskets.

@@Trikekid84 $1k for a properly done triple crank with all new parts is reasonable. So long as it's assembled right and is air-tight it will run well for a long time. When I do multi-cylinder crankshafts I prefer to have the crankcases it will be going into on hand. I can set the widths perfectly and once it's trued can be set in them to avoid getting banged around.

@@BillyWillicker yes, I gave the guy both case half's and he does cranks for many different sleds. Stuff that I own, friends, and racers from eagle River and other things. I would not know where else to bring the crank, and I definitely don't know how. I understand how to rebuild a single cyl crank, but never done one 100% by myself yet.

@@Trikekid84 It's just like a single, only a lot more width setting, and a LOT more truing. I do mostly singles and can get them down under .001" runout and usually better - not sure why I do when the spec is .003", but hey better is better. The straighter it is off the press the easier it will line up in the end so the press work is important. Cranks are definitely one of those things that the more you do the better you get.

It'll never wear out of phase with the crank! Which also helps the timing always be correct. Ford did this on the 300 as well which makes them last a long time. Not sure why other engines even use chains.

Not sure of hand, but would definitely be a good fit.

No cat, Jones glass pack where the cat was, then 2 ¼ pipe all the way to the bumper. I think I put the glass pack on backwards by accident but it made it quieter, basically the same as having just a cat and nothing behind it.