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Hi Mike i have trouble with my klr 650 A 1996. doohickey broke. chain get scratch crankcase in this place 16:41 ( top left corner) in your video and chain work there hole . motor work on low rotation but dont get in hight RPM sory for my english im from poland pls Help can i repair this hole or need new crankcase,all motor?

Such a thorough explanation and demo. Thanks so much!

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Mike, I'm curious as to which components wear in which order. This is apart from the doohickey tensioner system fails. I just did the doohickey upgrade, and what I had was that everything original was in "good" condition, but the eccentric was running the chain very close to the case, the actual clearance measured with a feeler gauge was 0.017". This was with the doohickey bolt loose and the stock linear spring pulling on the doohickey. The front counterbalancer was solid with no wobble, just like the one you show in this video. However, the front sprocket rubber looked just a tad thinner than the rear and eccentric ones. So the ultimate question would be: which components would need to be replaced to prevent the chain from running into the case? The front counterbalancer sprocket? The chain? Both? Something else? Thanks. Btw bike is a 1999 with 13,500 miles.

Hi. That's the one upgrade I need. I'm running a Big Gun slip-on and k&n filter. My setup will fall in 145 ? I'm at sea level in Puerto Rico's south coast .

Several things I don't understand. First, the doohickey is secured to the case with its bolt. So is this a routine maintenance item, where at whatever interval that bolt is loosened so that the doohickey can then rotate and take out the chain slack? Then the bolt is retightened? If yes, what is the adjustment interval for this? Secondly, with the doohickey bolt loose, do you not want to rotate the engine a couple times so that all the slack in the balancer chain is taken out by the torsion spring? Or does simply loosening the bolt suffice?

Hi mike, really nice material i wtite from chile and i would really like to buy a dooheckey, how would you recomend to do this?

My 2023 klr650s has 3k miles on it. It jerks in first gear sometimes, and I can hear a clanking noise coming from the left side of the engine if I engine brake. I just missed my warranty by 3 days. Any ideas what it could be?

ok verry good, but kawasaki now that problem for manny years ,en the does notting to improeve it schaime on you kawasaki

What about drilling the slide hole to 7/64 for the quicker throttle response? Is this advisable with your kit?

2012 with 8900 miles of easy road riding. Just did it, stock one was not broke. Went smooth and I have no questions on anything I did during the install. The original one was a little loose, I didnt know you could adjust the tension so easy or I would have done it before, there was plenty of travel left on the original doohicky. Anyway went smooth and bike sounded really quiet after, then took it for a rid and it sounds weird. Maybe just listening closer, but sounds almost like a fan running on high. The fan is not running. do you think it could be the chain being adjusted properly it would make it sound different?

In the process right now. Bought an 08 and runs rough at slow speeds but does fine on the highway. Hope this helps! I’ll post a follow up

There are 3 other KLR owners who frequent my local dealership. They all have more than 90,000 miles on bone stock engine Gen 1 KLRs. Mine currently has 30,000 on it. I may replace my doo hickey or may not. I cannot find any real documentation on stock doo failures. Hmmm What to do

I agree with MrThermoBob’s comment below. Mike does a great job of including the necessary details that many how-to videos leave out. As a teacher, I have learned over the years, just how much the details matter when explaining complex subject matter. For the layperson, the details are many times the difference between doing the job right the first time and having to do it over again. Thank you, Mike! Appreciate you taking the time and putting extra care and consideration into your work.

Very thorough! Mike is a great guy who takes the time to explain in detail how this fix works. Makes all the difference when doing a repair. Nice guy to talk with on the phone wealth of knowledge.

Hi Mike, all I can say is, Thank you for everything! Greetings from Chile

Hi Mike. I have seen another school of thought regarding the doohickey - that excessive looseness in the spring is also evidence of a stretched camchain. Therefore installing the doohickey replacement is likely to conceal that problem - ie its papering over a more serious issue. I remember when my GPz900R tensioner lost tension the correct fix was camchain replacement, a relatively trivial job I did in an afternoon because of the side mounted camchain on that bike.

Just ordered the kit. Thank you for your resource! Any other tool wok to hold the pulley?

Hello. What years does this video cover? Thank you

Good information

Thank you! I just picked up a 2013 with 90,000 miles (all OE, other than routine maintenance). Runs but burns oil so I just started my tear down. Looking forward to surfing your website for parts. Cheers

Wow!! 135 ft lbs is insane. Happy I borrowed a torque wrench because there's absolutely no way I would've tightened it that much otherwise.

Thanks Eagle Mike I just finished my install. My doohickey was split in half on the top. I purchased your kit and watched Rocky Mountain ATV install it piece of cake. I ended up finding a lot of items on your website that I wish I would have found before I purchased the OEM. Like the brake pedal stays that you have. I ended up getting the fork seals from you as well.

Can’t get my rubber plug to go in the hole……any advice please?

Hi! You caught my full attention when you mentioned the McMaster Carr or CDI torque wrenches, as economical generic versions for Snap On tools. I visited the McMaster site and I am confused by so many offerings. What model do you recommend? What range of values? I'd like to use one of these for my KTM Duke and my mountain bicycle. Help.

Not sure who needs to hear this, but for the rotor bolt on a 1984-1986 kl600, the manuals appear to call for 87 ft lbs of torque. Does anyone have any idea why they changed it despite no obvious change to the bolt? Edit: It seems that the 70 inch pounds on the case bolts holds up nicely for the 600, in case this sparked that question for any KL600 owners out there. Also, can vouch for Mike's KL-600 specific kit for my 1986 variant! My original doo/spring were intact and functional but I appreciate the peace of mind that his kits offer.

I appreciate this very much and hope to fix my old KL600 that just hit 10k miles. The fact that Mike even has a specific kit for such an old model makes me a little more confident in doing this for the first time. I'll be sure to take this two-part series as a holistic lesson in proper tools for the job and not just a set of instructions, as it seems that he's included plenty of good information in between steps.

Hello, where can i buy the Kit in germany?

Thanks Eagle Mike for the video and doohickey kit. I was able to do my new to me 2012 with 8800 miles. It had a strange surge to it when easing around at low speeds and you could also feel it in higher gears and higher speeds. Sure enough my stock doohickey spring was loose and not tensioning anything. Nothing broke yet. She is nice and smooth now with the new doohickey and spring.

Hello Mike can I pls confirm the ratchet Reversable handle you use in this video is it an AB-Nielsen tool? This is a great tool. Having trouble finding it seems it is only sold online?

I wish you were my neighbor Mike I hope we can meet up and ride out one day

OK - I watched both and at the end you loosened up the Doohickey Bolt so that it "rattles", but you never tightened it back up. That means that you want it loose? Won't it rattle it's way out till it hits the case? Should it not be tight - and if yes - what torque?

Hope all is well with your fiancée and her recovery, going under the knife is never fun and the healing from it is the real challenge.

Thanks for taking the time to make this great video! The way you took time to explain everything. Just great!!! Obviously you are a great expert on the subject. Your parts went on just like in the video, piece of cake!!! All your parts are superbly made, also have your fork brace.! Also you mentioned your phone number is in the instructions, and I can testify that yes you do answer the phone!

Thank you for taking the time to make these awesome videos

So this thing goes on my motorcycle , right🙄????🙄. Thank You for the too the point video. I plan on opening up the restictive exhaust , but was concerned about it running too lean.

I'm sure someone asked this and I'm sorry if I didn't go through all the comments but, isnt it the same if you just hand tighten the doohickey making sure the chain is tight enough and just torque the nut on the doohickey rather than just using a spring. It seems that the spring is just there as a afterthought it does't tighten anything once you torque the doohickey bolt..? Am I wrong on this?

That is a great walk thru. Thank you! Do you see any issues doing this to a 2005 KLR 250? they seem pretty close. :)

Noticed the bolts on the covers have white residue on them. Corrosion or salt? I see the same on mine. Is that something to worry about? Or can I just clean them and reassemble? Thanks for the video :)

Has anyone else had an issue with the o-ring on the adjuster bolt not sealing the outer case when it's tightened down , with latest version doohickey? Mine is a 2006

Has anyone else had an issue with the o-ring on the adjuster bolt not sealing the outer case when it's tightened down , with latest version doohickey? Mine is a 2006

Hello Mike. I have an 2018 on way .where u located?

Well, I just so happened to find a really good deal on 2017 KLR with only 1k miles. Should I just go ahead and replace these parts Eagle Mike or should I just ride out for a bit? I am wrench turner and things like this always prevent me from just enjoying the ride. Always feel like I have to work on something. Damn Anxiety gets the best of me at times. Thanks brother for the great video and straightforward approach.

Thanks for this great video, you saved me time and money. The piece of mind knowing the job is done correctly is amazing.

Great Video like usual Mike! Question...if you take this apart, your spring is broken but you can't find the small broken piece of the spring? What does one do?

I completed mine. The spring was broke. Any idea Wby my bike isn't starting and is now backfiring

I have worked on engines for over 50 years. Mike has even more wrench time than I have especially with the thousand KLRs he has worked on.. He clearly knows all there is to know about these engines. So here is my only problem with this video. NO IMPACT DRIVERS at assembly time. DON"T DO IT! DON"T DO IT! DON"T DO IT! DON"T DO IT! Yes I know he showed that he turned down the torque selection to the lowest setting. If you are a PRO like he is fine but if you are not JUST DON"T DO IT. I can't count the times I have had to repair threads because people with little experience on aluminum cases wrecked things. Start bolts by hand only, Use a 1/4 inch drive ratchet (not a 3/8 1/2 or 1 inch), or a T handle to spin them down then USE A TORQUE WRENCH. They are not lug nuts on a dump truck. If you ignore this issue and destroy threads in a case, do the world a favor and fix them or have someone else fix them.. Don't sell a bike with thread damage to someone else without being honest about damage. Eagle Mike after thousands of hours of working on KLRs has developed a delicate feel for bolts going into soft aluminum cases. He is a PRO, 90 percent of those who will do this are not. So please follow this simple rules on assembly, NO IMPACT WRENCHES, air or electric. Do not cross thread bolts. Do not drive in a bolt until it starts to thread in place just with your fingers. If you damage threads REPAIR THEM! Mike clearly skipped over this because of his experience and was also concentrating just on the content of the mechanics of the gears, chain and doohickey.. The content is outstanding. Just remember he is PRO most are not. To Mike directly, thank you for designing this new part and keeping our bikes on the road for years and years.

No freaking way!!!!

Wait what, did you say 178,000 miles!!!???

Excellent video.