- Видео 5
- Просмотров 84 823
Tropix Media
Добавлен 26 окт 2021
Volvo Gearbox Going Into Limpmode? Watch This First
This video explains that an injector wiring fault can throw your autobox into limp mode.
Many people mistake the gearbox limp mode to be the cause of a severe mechanical fault with the box, which can result in very expensive repair.
On my D5 engine, the injector misfire triggers the "anti-skid service" (which is very common by other means) and most importantly, the "transmission service required" which throws the box into limp mode, restricting you to only one gear, apart from "Park" and "Reverse"
Rectifying the misfire usually in most cases solves the limp mode.
Many people mistake the gearbox limp mode to be the cause of a severe mechanical fault with the box, which can result in very expensive repair.
On my D5 engine, the injector misfire triggers the "anti-skid service" (which is very common by other means) and most importantly, the "transmission service required" which throws the box into limp mode, restricting you to only one gear, apart from "Park" and "Reverse"
Rectifying the misfire usually in most cases solves the limp mode.
Просмотров: 33 233
Видео
Golf MK3 Non Runner Gets Started
Просмотров 3 тыс.2 года назад
An old scrap non running MK3 Golf which was left standing for around 4 years purchased for £150, in this video, I show you the steps I took to get it fixed. *Please Read* Since this is a small channel, I'm trying to experiment with what works best in regards to a theme or style. music courtesy of www.bensound.com
D5 Starter Motor Not Working? This Could Help.
Просмотров 2,5 тыс.2 года назад
If the shaft on your starter has movement due to corrosion or damage, then this video could help you. Please disconnect your battery BEFORE you attempt to remove the starter or adjust the nuts.
Volvo D5 - Turbo Resonator - Permanent Fix
Просмотров 28 тыс.2 года назад
The turbo resonator is a common culprit for untraceable boost leaks. The pipe either blows off or the orange seals rip. Alot of people opt for the replacing the orange seals, but this just prolongs the inevitable. A silicon hose replacement ensures the fact the pipe will never have to be replaced again, unless of course it is somehow damaged. Link for the silicon hose: PLEASE NOTE IT COMES IN 3...
Timing a Volvo D5 Engine
Просмотров 18 тыс.2 года назад
This is aimed at people who ideally want to do the rockers and lifters, but are lacking confidence in engine timing. Also comes in handy if you plan to replace the cylinder head or do a full engine rebuild. This applies for the P2 platform, same procedure MIGHT apply for newer models. SONG CREDITS: Si Se Da (Prod. by Bad Rabbit) Reggae Track (Prod. by RFlowBeatz TOOLS: Laser 6564 Volvo Timing T...
To access the top clamp nut: move yourself further back towards the middle of the car, behind a cross member or two, you will see a gap - about a foot away lies the clamp nut. Look for the orange seal! I had to use a torch. I used a 3/8 inch ratchet > long extension > 1/4 adaptor > a wobble/universal joint (recommended!) > 7mm socket. (Whatever size ratchets and extensions you use, the socket for the clamp nut is 7mm) Space is limited for the ratchet to turn, so crack the nut with the ratchet still attached and then disengage it, using your hand to turn the extension bar. To remove, pull out the other end of the res box at the orange seal, then twist and yank down the turbo res box. Done. Awkward but doable!
This happened to me today with my xc90 but this is nice to know but mine was the front driver's side abs sensor connector was a little loose and caused this same issue and same fault code. I had to stop the car and restart for gearbox to shift gears again
Hello - I have a hissing noise when taking my foot off pedal - went under the car took off the plastic cover under engine and I saw that where is the connection to this pipe there is oil around it - does it mean I have same problem like you? Shall I change this also like in your video and will be fixed? Thanks
A bit of oil is normal. The orange seals are cheap, if you’re replacing the lower one just make sure you order a lower one. You need to create a bit of wiggle room on the plastic pipework: unbolt it from the two brackets that go along the length of the pipe. Then undo the jubilee clamp from the rubber hose that it connects to (in the engine bay). That way, you can shift the plastic pipe backwards to remove the orange seal. Easy job.
What if the manual range shifts by itself like in auto range...I'm having tHat issues .
was it showing any trans fault codes ?
Great video cheers. Would you happen to know the sizes of jubilee clamps required?
50-70mm👍
How do you tighten up the top jubilee clip, their doesn’t look to be any room to get my big sausage fingers in?
I had this challenge recently and by god it's hard to reach. But I found there's an opening between the gaps towards the driver side (UK) of this hose, you can use a small 1/4 drive ratchet with an extension bar (I had 150mm), a universal joint, and a 7mm socket attached. (Or whichever size the bolt on the jubilee clip is) You should be able to fit a hand with the ratchet up through the gap and reach the bolt with that extension. It's still a tight fit but enough to give you leverage to tighten it properly.
Thanks. I had a bad coil on my 2.5T and the trans went into limp mode. Got a used coil and it's working great now.
Where did you order the silicone pipe ?
I had this happen to me. I just put a good quality jubilee on the top. Never occurred again. Then i bought a V8 petrol and vowed never to buy diesel again as they're a mare.
And got triple fuel consumption
Thank you very much for your video, it is very helpful, but why do we turn the crank until it hits the lock? since the shaft was previously set to the mark? I don't understand this, could you explain it to me? Thank you in advance
Simply aligning the crankshaft using timing marks is not precise enough, so to be sure the pin slots in without forcing, it's easiest to rotate the crankshaft clockwise 15 degrees, then insert the tool, then rotate anti-clockwise again until (the webbing of) piston number 5 locks against the tool.
Hi, how did you get the resonator out of the car, passing the catalytic converter? There is no or not much room. Thanks God, there is only one screw (house clamp).
was the turbo any louder after the swap? I just heard a pop, and sudden loss of performance under 3000rpm I think the first turbo has popped a hose, it doesn't appear to have any performance drop up high. question I have is why did it come off? are those orange seals normally covered in oil? happens over time?
Do you need to remove fuel and vacuum pump first to remove camshafts?
Yes, and take care not to rotate the high-pressure fuel pump once it's off.
I had a new Intercooler fitted and when changing the transmission fluid saw some oil deposits around this part. I decided against the silicone hose option and instead replaced the resonator. £155.00 for this part genuine Volvo spare. The old one has not gone (just the seal had begun to leak slightly). It lasted 17 years and 168,606 miles so I don’t think the new part will fail anytime soon. I pleased too the underside of my D5 engine is bone dry without any oil deposits unlike this engine depicted.
Thanks a lot man!! I had my XC90 thrown in the back of my house during 6 month not knowing how to solve this. I cleaned the connectors/plugs and changed 2 of them and all problems went away. Antiskid and gearbox problems. Incredible. Thanks again, solved with just a couple of dollars.
Mate this is literally the only video about this on youtube many thanks any problems with power or anything after this mod did you look and see if anything is even in the stock pipe like what the resornator is and how easy was it to do from under the car could it be done with just a trolley jack thanks mate
Have you found the noise increase since you removed the resonator?
Yes you can hear turbo noise on sudden gas pedal lift-off's after resonator is replaced with silicon hose: ruclips.net/user/shorts-fxfS8E5Z-E Some might enjoy this sound. I don't.
@@atmosphericrecord me too removed the resonator, but nothing similar sound as your. a can't hear any change
@@atmosphericrecordI have this noise on my XC90 D5 - have not replaced anything yet - what is the cause of this hissing noise? Exactly same as on video you posted.. thanks if you can advice!
Definitely no sound difference? What was the point of a resonator iin the first place?
Turbo is now more audible: ruclips.net/user/shorts-fxfS8E5Z-E?
How we can identity the timing belt has replaced or not ( with out service book)
when in doubt, replace. they are much cheaper than a seized engine
Hi, this is the best video I have found, I'm doing the rockers and lifters on my 2007 xc90 in a few days, is this video for the euro 4,
Hello, was your failure happening from engine/gearbox cold or after some minutes driving? I have the same problem, but is happening after some minutes driving (seems my problem is related to gearbox/ATF pressure). Thanks in advance
I just had this issue rock up yesterday and stopped the car. It started flaring very ridiculously in 4th and 5th. Instead just kicking it no gear, it flares over 3ooorpm and upto 4ooorpm. So after stopping the engine, waiting a bit, I drove off and the flaring was minimal. Still there but not as bad. I need to run a diagnostic to check the codes because this video somehow hints at the issue that I may or not have since I replaced my loom as the older loom had some knacks in it. This one has a few but much lesser breaks in the loom or at the connectors. Car starts first time and very strongly too. To add, I had a mild flaring issue when the engine is hot. Nothing when it's cold.
I've done the atf flush which improved the changes dramatically but it tends to return after a time do now I'm thinking the valve body needs a clean up
@@nabeeljacksonrhoda6480what ended up being the issue? Did you fix it?
Awsome. I am suffering the same iusse at the moment and thinking of getting rid of the resonator. I is possible to replace it without much effort?
Hello there. Can you look at my video and tel me if this might be caused by timming or hydraulic lifters/tappers. Im loosing my head as we can not figure out what is this that sound. It can be hear on idle and when rev goues up but not when revs going down. ruclips.net/user/shortswK9Bjd2t5lk
Can you do a video on why the lifters break please.
Need a follow up dude
Not much mention of this online but this solved my car randomly cutting out, thanks alot!! 👍
Nice video, hopefully this helps
My nan has no teeth in her mouth.
Nice video man, very helpful
Hi Thank you For this Clear and easy to understund Video. I have xc90 2005 d5 clicking noise when accelerating and on 3k rev just desapire and work like new…do you think lifters ??? on idle engine run swite…no noise. I will Appreciate any help kind regards Peter
Check for any leaks around your injectors, lifter noise is quite audible on idle and low to mid revs.
@@tropixmedia7325 thank you very much for the quick reply it’s very important tip for me I was suspecting injectors from the very beginning I have even bought one injector and start replacing them one by one putting one secondhand injector I bought but actually nothing has changed also I have noticed I’ve got different injectors Some of them if not all have been replaced because they have different numbers and some of them are class 2 others class 3 … but this is very important for me if lifters clicks always then I will concentrate on injectors thank you very much again
@@pedroleonowicz is your engine an euro 3? (Black engine cover) if so, the injectors all need to be the same class number also, injectors on these engines CAN NOT be refurbished, plenty of information online of complaints and problems from doing so. Make sure the injectors you have arent reconditioned.
@@tropixmedia7325 I have No idea …is xc90 2005 reg. T5 TBF I bought it with this noise month ago…I’m really appreciating this source of knowledge do you think is euro 3 engine I do most of repairs myself but I am window cleaner not Mechanik…But I’m driving old cars for almost 30 years and I’m accustomed to repair my cars
@@pedroleonowicz Euros 3 don't have a DPF, also the rocker cover on the Euro 3s are silver and not black. The Euro 3s have, as you mentioned 3 classes of injector.
My volvo xc90 is hissing would this possibility be the problem it's a new car to me and it drinks diesel like oliver reed would drink booze
If you have black smoke under boost then yes, most likely you have a boost leak. A tell tale sign is oily mist around the joints. The pipe in this video is a very common failure.
@@tropixmedia7325i have oil aroudn the joint of this pipe - pretty dirty actually and my car hissing like hell when taking my foot off - so shall I replace right away? Thx man
Great job restoring a retro ride
Excellent video, awesome when you revive a car that's been sat for years, good job👍
you know your way around a shaft..
A broken shaft is no joke.
@@tropixmedia7325 nothing worse than a broken shaft..
"hold the shaft"
Gently
@@tropixmedia7325 do you use two hands??
My uncle does
@@tropixmedia7325 🤣
Do you lifter broken?
Lifters needed changing yes, £100 for a set on ebay. Check rocker arms for scoring, will make alot of noise if not changed also.
@@tropixmedia7325 THANK you for your answer is it possible to check it without removing camshaft?
@@Adam19832 in a way yes, if the lifter seat has been smashed, you'll notice straight away, by then it's too late and you'll need a new cylinder head. However, if all seems fine then usually the lifter has collapsed, or broken apart but not damaged the head. If you notice a loud tapping noise and pulsing sound from the airbox, get it seen to asap. Lifter issues on these engines are caused by the 0w30 oil, I use the 5w40 oil a4/b4 oil personally and have not had a single issue since the repair. EURO 3s never suffered a single lifter issue due to the recommended thicker oil they had. The thin oil on the euro 4s prioritises MPG and DPF efficiency.
Also to mention, diesel enters the sump from failed regens which dilutes the already thin oil causing the problem.
@@tropixmedia7325 do you still have dpf and using 5w40? You mean the problem with vavle rockers is because oil. You mean less protection on higher oil temps?
Damn, so many subscribers.... = shit video
Does this effect the sound in any way?
No it don't, its more of a preventative measure. Also durable enough to handle higher boost pressures if you have the car remapped.
Actually it does effect. Hear the sound when resonator replaced with silicon hose: ruclips.net/user/shorts-fxfS8E5Z-E?feature=share
Hi again. With ignition key at position II fuel comes to the pump through inlet and return lines, even to the banjo bolt at the top. But when engine is running with easy start spray, no fuel would leak when I loosened the banjo bolt at top. IS this an issue?
Are you cranking it with the bolt loosened? You are meant to as this will pressurise the rail and purge the air, easy start is never recommended, as it has been known to bend con rods in the past due to how volatile it is. Double check you have tightened all fuel lines including the metal fuel pipe nut at the bottom of the HP fuel pump, that is an easy one to forget about. Also check ALL connections. If the fuel is delivered around the system while in position II then it should do so while cranking.
I'll upload a video soon to show in detail if that will help, it will demonstrate it better.
Also I forgot to mention, make sure your absolutely certain the timings correct, did you keep the pins in place when tensioning the belt and torquing the sprocket, misaligned timing can cause the problem you describe. Especially if everything worked before you stripped it.
Nice one. Cheers for sharing
Thank you, apologies, I thought I responded.
Nice one mate. Thanks a trillion for sharing this. I'm actually stuck with engine cranking but not running. I removed only the exhaust camshaft and replaced just one lifter. After that car wouldn't start. I thought just putting shaft back with dots alignment is sufficient for timing but watching your video its confirmed my timing has gone wrong? I'll redo it and please correct me if I'm wrong: 1. Get timing marks aligned to markings on timing belt sprocket and camshaft sprocket dots 2. Remove timing belt (drive belt still in place) 3. Lock the camshaft through the hole behind vacuum pump using alignment tool 4. Lock the crankshaft behind the starter motor using other alignment tool 5. Rotate crank pulley anti clockwise until it hits the alignment tool and stops 6. Refit timing belt, vacuum pump and starter motor
Make sure the cam sprocket notch is aligned with the mark on the cover, tension the belt THEN torque the sprocket bolts. Remember to always turn the engine by hand a few revolutions to make sure there is no interference (very important) Going by what you've said, you probably have air in the fuel lines hence why your having problems starting, start by cracking lose the large bango bolt ontop of the HP fuel pump, turn the engine over then it should start as your purging most of the air out of the system, this is what I did when I had this issue the first time, remember to tighten the bolt after loosening.
High pressure pump faulty. replace it and it will work. no need for priming bosch one designed to bleed it self
@@gbmultit2222 not always true, it can take alot of cranking for it to self bleed, usually resulting in the battery going flat.
Hi, you helped me when I did my valve body, I've just changed my rockers and lifters but now engine won't turn by hand, did this solution work for you, thanks
This is the only video I found on YT for D5. Very informative. Thank you
Thank you.