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yeah it makes a good difference. Plus you dont have to screw the screws into the case so its less stress on the standoffs and the pcb. you just get an o-ring, theres one on ringerkeys that i used and it works extremely well, super easy mod.

@@TemperTemper-lr8em did you have to do any modifications to the PCB? also, do you have to install anything else on the standoffs within the case?

Lmao i went that exact route, the tofu 60 redux with magnetic jades, its coming in the mail soon. The boog is definitely a better keyboard physically, but i think the real difference is the software and pcb that it comes with, thats why i went with wooting over the boog.

Jades are very nice and smooth, not much wobble. They are only about 3.5mm full travel and theyre springs are lighter but they work fine with the beta software. Highly recommend over the lekkers.

thank you

Nope stock module stabs worked fine with jades.

@@cyu6722 thank you

Yes! Stock screw ins that with the module

​@@cyu6722How did you manage to fit it in? I heard that the screw in stabs don't allow enough clearance for the o ring mount to work.

@@itsjaesuradid you ever manage to find out ?

@michaelsoto4156 The o rings he is using are specifically designed to fit for screw in stabs. Alternatively, you could just get TX AP clip in stabs, which gives you enough clearance for normal o ring and is generally regarded as one of the best stabs on the market.

@@itsjaesura I have tx ap long pole screw ins

It's a reference point. You know what a snap should generally sound like, it's acoustics relative to the environment. Knowing what a mouse click, or a snap sounds like with that audio equipment lets you know roughly what the keyboard should sound like if you got an exact replica of the keyboard shown in this video.

Not sure if you have already found out about this, the screw hole for the ergodox tenting feet is an option if you purchase the case from tree dog

@@davidevans7264 I actually haven't found out about this. I wish I knew about it sooner so I could check it out, but I've already bought a case from SMKeyboards which don't feature that lol

i poke the main hole where the switch stems goes into the pins will go in by themselves. I just used some thin packing PE foam.

The pads are black and I just got a bunch from amazon. Look up PE EVA Poron Switch Pads Switch Buffer Foam for Hotswappable PCB Soldered PCB (PE 120 PCS). The difference is the PE packing foam which is like a thin white protective foam you get in electronic packaging materials. Its thicker and the switches make more contact since youre poking them through so the sound difference is mostly due to the material difference, thickeness, contacts etc.

Since this video I actually installed a third party PE foam layer which sounds much higher pitched, so I've been using that with a couple of layers of tape, no case foam.

@@cyu6722 Can u link

I am, I have done it at least 8 times now without issue, but learn the risk and make your own assessment. I believe the chances are very very low.

@@cyu6722 I just did it yesterday. Tape mod (3 layers), band aid mod and PE foam mod (between plate and PCB).

Glad you like it!

It more flex and the sound wasn't altered that much. The sound can be just adjusted from normal mods like tape or pe foam, no need to spend money on it unless you really just want flex.

Yep! It kind of takes over everything. Why a lot of people don't like it since it takes away the character of the board.

True but somehow, it just makes it sound creamier to type on. About character of the board...to me it doesn't affect me. Those expensive boards are expensive due to it being limited thus to manufacturer in a smaller quantity, the prices go up, and people rate them as premium boards. However look at keychron. Their Q series boards tick all the boxes for enthusiast grade boards. Gasket mount, hot swappable, aluminum, qmk via compatible, able to custom swap plates etc.. and best of all, it's pretty affordable. Back to sound, I just kinda like the pe foam creamy sound signature. Yes it's personal preference.

It's whatever came with some packaging material I had most likely <1mm. Thinner would be better in this case as it might run the risk of loose switches esp if youre hotswap.

@@cyu6722 packaging material of the keychron q1 or?

nope :)

Depends on what kind of sound you want with the keyboard. Regarding packing pe vs greendoor, packing pe will give you a deeper sound but if you prefer some clackier, greendoor is the way to go.

@@cyu6722 if i use epsilon with greendoorgeeks pe foam 3layer tape mod remove case foam and add 1mm silicone thick pom plate will it clack or thock?

You apply either electric tape or 2 layers or masking tape to the edges where the screw holes are so it creates a gap between the upper and bottom case. There's lot of good videos out there explaining the mod.

Grow a pair

On a serious note, don't let others tell you what you can and can't do. If you like em you should get them

Aand in case you didn't know... You can remove the pink keycaps to only have back ones

@@syfico i dont care about other ppl... i dont like girly pink color.

@@user-j9ki7r the color is more of a muted pink, almost salmon. I don't have this board currently but I'm about to purchase it. If I were you I would watch more videos on it and from your opinion that way. Good luck!

it's so stupid. it doesn't make any difference. yeah same boards sound different with different mics. the finger snapping isn't gonna compensate for the different sound signatures from the mics lol they're just following everyone else for no reason.

@@RichardHorpe it is.. it's annoying as fuck

yeah i seems like the plate is finnicky with the sizing. The left space bar hole was too large and tight for the durocks to fit in so I just kept the original housing, used the new stem and wire and bandaid modded it to make it tight around the tolerances.

Steel and brass would both be pretty nonflexible but brass would have a different sound signature and look of course. PC would be the most flexible but FR is pretty flexible too just to that degree. I personally like FR cause it provides a higher sound signature than PC as I am over the "thock" obsession.

@@cyu6722 Good

Mist japanese pbt keycaps from amazon

Deeper sounds, long progressive spring so you feel the weight earlier, different stem and bottom housing shape.

@@cyu6722 Which one would you say is deeper and better feeling/

I would recommend the caps cause of the spring weight and feel. I do recommend lubing both.

They're some japanese keycaps called mist from Amazon: www.amazon.com/Japanese-Dye-Sublimation-Switches-Mechanical-Keyboards/dp/B09NNMXMJS

I did not. The cap milky switches are pretty loud and the tape mod also makes it louder too.

Haha gazzew recommended method. Lube the side rails and donut dip the spring

It's not surprising, some times a key right beside each other will have a different pitch. Is yours unpleasant or just different? I also added the additional gaskets to the side as well, but they do sound a bit higher than the rest of the main board but not in a bad way.

If you're talking about the red led under the space bar, yes it does stay red when pluggedin. You should be able to remap keys using the q1 json file on the keychron website. Be sure to program layer 2 and 3 for windows, 0 and 1

@@cyu6722 is the way to map Q1 different from KBD67 Lite?

For Q1 if you're using windows you would use layer 2 and 3, 0 and 1 for mac and for the kbd67, layer 0 is the default layer

@@cyu6722 Thanks for ur info. It helps me so much. No wonder my keymap couldn't work coz i've been doing it wrong the whole time.

old me when I first started with this hobby would have been the 3x tape + case foam for the deep "thock:" but right now, I like just the 3x tape mod, no case foam. It brings out the signature of the board for me more and I like the poppier, clacky sound profile with these switches.

The default case foam is very thin and almost does nothing, so yes. But I tried a 1.5 mm layer of neoprene and it does reduce the flex but not eliminate it.

use polyfil

Amazon: looked up 84 keyboard foam. I had to punch out custom holes so the stand offs can go through and cut off parts of it to fit the spacebar stabs

Akko Samurai ASA profile

between PCB and plate. I got the brass plate option.

Much brighter than the RK84 I have.

It's not plastic, I believe it is steel.

Stargaze clone from Aliexpress 😅. Quality isn't bad at all for the price, legends are a tiny bit off on some keys but it's clean and not fuzzy and the keycaps have a decent thickness