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I’m aware of the tool, I used to have one that has a hooked end and fit a slide hammer, the hook eventually failed, guess the thing was tempered too hard lol! Most of them I’ve removed are not worth saving as far as the tube. I generally replace them if I mess with them, especially if I rebuild an engine. I really love the little flatheads, I’m getting ready to go through a 251 I picked up from a 2-1/2 ton, did some measurements, thought about trying to squeeze it in a 48 Plymouth. Most likely I’ll put the 251 in a M37 weapons carrier I have sitting around.

@@chompkinduce Nice. I have a truck 251, the water distribution tube is brass, first time I ever saw that. Chrysler car 251 was steel. Both engines were 1951 models. The truck also has brass freeze plugs, and Sodium valves.

I’ll have to check the one in the 251, now you have my curiosity, I’m going to pull the head, freshen the valves and seats up. It had been overhauled at some point, then left in a field without running for a long time. When I got the engine it was stuck from condensation, filled the cylinders with atf and diesel. After a few weeks of sitting, started working the crank a little and it came free. However, the valves were all stuck open, pulled the head and used a wooden oak dowl and gently tapped them back down against the lifters. Repeated that game for a few days till they were free and was able to run it for a bit. It blew my mind that the cylinders were not pitted.

Thanks for the information! I’ll have to research more into that area. I actually acquired a tool from a friend that works on aircraft for doing wire. I haven’t really had to do a lot of tie wire since I don’t work on aircraft and generally on most civilian stuff you don’t run into it much. Most of the time the only things I run into that have it are military. You happen to have any videos on doing the wire correctly? I’d definitely take a look.

Definitely Estwing brand. They seem to be one of the best all the way around.

I find most manufacturers did some crazy stuff. I just did wheel cylinders all the way around this 48 Plymouth and also a 50’s Willy’s Jeep. I hate the rear axles on both that have a hub on a tapered axle shaft with a key way and retaining nut. I’d agree, Chrysler/Mopar definitely experimented with some interesting ideas.

@@chompkinduce If I had an old Mopar long term I'd ditch that stock rear axle and probably put a '57-up Ford in it as it will have the tried and true 9 inch plus the wheel bolt pattern is the same and rework the driveshaft to take the Ford. That way parts are readily available and it would be a hidden modification.

Interestingly I’d considered that myself. I was thinking of using one I’d pulled from a 70’s full size ranger. The 5x4.5 that both used would work out really well. I thought about getting new yokes and jigging up a drive shaft that has modern U-Joints. If I wasn’t trying to keep it mostly original, I’d probably do an s-10 frame, Ford rear end and a small block Chevy v8. I have days I consider it seriously, be fun to hot rod it lol.

Glad it was helpful!

It’s most likely just loose. It’s a plug.

@@chompkinduce looking at it with a magnifying glass it looks like the plug itself might actually have a crack in it

Lo siento, Yo no Hablo. :(

Lo siento. No vendo partes. Puedes busquar mvpartstore.com

www.eriksmilitarysurplus.com/inpuhyheforp.html

I’ve seen several places, I’ll try to find you a few more, they are all around that $300.00 range.

@@chompkinduce thanks man u helped alot

Yup, anytime. If you need anything else I’ll try to help ya out. Good luck on getting the engine going.

I would agree, I set some on a John Deere 770D grader a few years ago. A strap wouldn’t work and I did the good old starting fluid with air. It actually made me a bit concerned on the grader because it took a lot of starting fluid and I used an air chuck that was self locking without the valve stem installed. Sprayed the starting fluid in, applied air and flipped a match. The tires were not mounted on the machine and they jumped about 5’ in the air. It got em on though. This method seems to work in a pinch on smaller tires, it’s honestly saved my butt a few times and figured it worth a share.

Let me see if I understand correctly. You have an engine you can get started, but if you run the RPM down to an Idle it will not stay at an idle and dies. Let me know if this is what you mean.

@@chompkinduce the engine starts but the rpm is always above 1000 and the engine temperature remains above 160 ° c. Thank you for your attention.

160 degrees Celsius is 320 degrees Fahrenheit, it would most likely be boiling coolant out. The engine should operate around 170-180 degrees Fahrenheit or 71 centigrade. The rpm being a bit high for idle is usually around 800rpm. I’d probably establish that the timing is correct first. Pre ignition or fuel that is essentially injected too early in the case of a diesel can cause excessive heat. It may not hurt to check all the fuel filter in the system as well as purge moisture from them if any has accumulated. The density compensation system might be an issue as well and it can be bypassed though I don’t have it available on the video. If you check all those things, check the low idle adjustment on the exterior of the pump.

Yes! The piston that is in the middle of the hydraulic head can definitely get stuck. A pencil or small wooden dowel can sometimes be used to get it un-stuck. A little light oil on the piston before trying to free it would be recommended. I’ve done that on the truck with the help of someone to push the starter button, while you apply a little downward pressure on the piston with the dowel. If you get it free, run a gallon of cheap engine oil in the fuel, it helps lubricate the fuel system.

Awesome thank you so much!!!

I did the pencil trick and it is going up and down, also when you turn the power on and the lift pump is running, fuel is dumping out of that piston when the caps off, I put it back together and I'm still not getting any fuel out of the Injector lines. Any more suggestions? Thanks again for all the tips so far.

Actually the injection line is spitting a little fuel out of it, do these take a lot to bleed the air out of the system?

T Yes they can be a pain to bleed them. It’s actually easier to have someone pull you with a pickup, while you turn the engine over in gear to prime them. I don’t like to use the starter to get them running if they have lost prime. Usually high range and 3-4 gear while being pulled let the clutch out and have someone tow you while you hold the trotte open with the pull stop in the run position and the lift pump power on.

60 Acres of Whatever That allen hole is a port for fuel. I’m wondering if it’s leaking or if you have a cracked Hydraulic Head. I have seen a few that have cracked. Check the Allen head bolt and make sure it’s tight.

Matthew Johnson :/ I have. Looks like it might be cracked

1992bacardiblack they are available on eBay and if you read through the comments I believe they are available a few other places.

jussell Its possible something is broken inside. The head has a piston that rides on a button that rides on a cam. It might just have a piston that’s stuck and is trying to lift the whole assembly.

Josey Walesa I don’t have any M35 trucks in the shop as of now. I’m currently re-powering two smaller military vehicles. One is an M38a1 Jeep that’s receiving a 4.3 GM v-6 the other is a M37 Dodge that’s getting LS Gm v-8. In particular, what would you like to see on the m35 series? If I get one in I’d try to cover the information you would like.

Jay Guthrie www.eriksmilitarysurplus.com/inpuhyheforp.html I seen new hydraulic heads on this site a while back.

Wilmer Segarra If you open the top window and side with the gear you should be able to turn the crankshaft slowly by hand. I find it much easier to remove the pump and do it on the bench. Trying to do it on the truck is tricky. It’s crazy hard to get the fuel shutoff back together on the truck.

Not usually, not much in them to rebuild. Few bearings and springs. Usually inspect the internal components and order just what is needed. If you find parts, they are usually sold individually not in a master kit.

DavidRWymore Yeah during my fun video making I forgot to show the spring steel 3 prong retaining clip that snaps around the button. New better built ones would be fantastic. The old ones don't hold up too well.

Rich Stacey Before becoming a heavy equipment operator I was a full time heavy equipment mechanic. Over the years I've purchased and sold surplus military equipment though my side business. I have collected equipment for the repair and rebuilding of engines and components. In short I've focused on military equipment because I enjoy it. I share a little of my knowledge so others can enjoy it as well.

Thanks so much for this video. My Deuce started, went to fast idle so I shut it down. Then it wouldn't start again. SS said it was the IP was sticking, and to open it up. You video shows that real well. Question, where does the plunger on the shut off cable go when you put the cover back on? thanks!

What timing gear cover are you talking about?

Phillip Whitney I'm familiar with the Psb6a pump since I've had a bunch apart. I haven't had any other series apart so I couldn't tell you for sure. If the pump looks the same, I'd imagine that it would come apart the same. I know that they produced a series that looked the same minus the fuel density compensator.

Jason Garrido You can actually do the repair on the truck if your talented enough. I like the pump off to clean and check them over. I like to take the valve cover off the truck and watch the intake valve open and then close. Have someone bump the starter with the pull stop out. It's the valve at the very front of the engine. After it closes, on the side the injection pump is on you will see a small timing pointer above the front crank pully. I mark the pointer with a yellow paint pen. Turn the crank carefully to bring it to (TDC) top dead center on the compression stroke. If you have a turbocharged engine you will see two marks. One is for naturally aspirated the other is for Turbocharged. If you open the small cover on the top front of the pump you should see the pointer inside the pump lined up at this point if you are on the compression stroke. You can then remove the timing gear cover and remove the 3 bolts retaining the timing gear and the center drive gear nut. Make sure the batteries are undone before doing this part. After that you can remove the three pump to timing cover bolts and the fuel lines. If you decide to try the repair on the truck you line the timing marks up, open the pull stop cover. Look in with a flashlight and line the removal mark up for the Hydraulic head and remove the shut off cam. You should then be able to remove and replace the Hydraulic head. It's getting the little cam for the shut off back in place that's difficult while on the truck. Hope this helps.

Matthew Johnson yes but I already pulled the fender cleaned the pump pulled the kill rack cover found the lever to be sticking freed it up truck now runs. Turned the pump on no leaking from the lever oring could the fuel in my oil be coming from the high pressure pump or the compensator or only from the hydraulic head orings. what is the best way to proceed with trouble shooting. I was also told to check the intake heater but I don't see how fuel can get into the oil from there any help appreciated

Jason Garrido The lower O ring on the Hydraulic head is a possibility. For the price of an O ring set I'd start there. The fuel density compensator can be bypassed to eliminate it as a possibility. The cold start heater can leak and fill the intake with diesel that would go past the rings. It's also something easy to block off. The quill shaft in the Hydraulic head if they get super worn could leak. Usually it will just go in the return side where your shut off is located. I'd start with the O ring kit and try process of elimination on the other possibilities. I've never seen a density compensator leak, it is totally possible though because all it is, is a piston in a bore that moves when overcome by a viscous fluid that will not flow through a hole. The piston overcomes a spring that in turn allows it to move a tapered rod below.

Hey Matt,I have a '68 deuce & a half.Turns over but,won't start,sat up, maybe a year or two..quarter tank of fuel,did not replace fuel,loosen line at injectors,getting fuel to the injectors(not at a high volume) Tested the high pressure with pencil,...pump working!.. The "fuel shut-off" is where I had trouble,...once opened,(spilling with diesel)the lever would NOT move without wacking it with flat-head and hammer...even after loosening the wire-tied, 2 screws...What would you recommend?...and also,WTF is that 16 point bolt on top of the unit called,and what is it for?....Jeez!!,...I watched so many vids,...and no one addresses that frickin bolt!....it has a spring,behind it!!..Also,thanks for your upload!...very helpful!

Ayúdame amigo soy de Venezuela tengo un camión con un motor hercules pero no puedo conseguí la falla inyectora

Westtexted Google search (Mv parts store) eBay also sells parts from Time to time.

JoeyAirborne happy to help you out.