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We will for sure! Maybe we need to come down to your track!

I just got one at my local parts store.

Just a dab of wheel bearing grease, nothing special, it helps hold it centered to install easier Thanks for watching

Bank one is on the drivers side. Cyl 1,3,5,7

I don’t know. I think I heard it costs 1-3k to replace the clutch so probably in that range.

I keep my duster on jack stands over the winter to keep the drag tires from flat spotting. If you use a lift and can let the suspension to hang, you may get less sagging of your springs. It may not make a big difference but for the little effort it takes it’s worth it for peace of mind. Thanks for watching

It still happens from time to time haha we’ll have a strong finish to the season!

My biggest fans!

Negative

👍

It’s not terrible, but I’m not excited about the wiring lol

Awesome! So far they’ve been flawless! Glad we could help

Not with the hid you don't.

ATF 4 auto or manual, but check your owners manual. Different procedures for an automatic. My 5 speed auto does not have a dipstick, you can order one but the instructions may be confusing and very temperature dependent.

lol sorry! I’d love to track the car one time though, would be a lot of fun

@@jerayracing these cars are definitely at home on the track.

Front or rear axle? Is the parts store ordering by vin? Rear appears to be the same for r/t and pursuit. They make one longer for left front to compensate for motor mount wear. Maybe that is what you have and the shorter one will work.

Service awd. Most likely code is set because the actuator is not moving. Remove it like I showed in the vid and see if it operates with wires connected . If it is not pushed out. Turn traction control off and put in gear. Don’t have to drive it, it will push out and stay out after you put in park and shut off. You can disassemble and clean it. That is what I did

Speed sensor problem may be related to service awd. I assume you checked fuses and all wires for nicks. You checked the abs ring for damage. All tires same size and inflation. I have never trouble shot this so I don’t know. Good luck.

@@jerayracing Driver Rear, Yes they are ordering by the vin. When we tighten the axle bolt the axle fall out the differential. It only has 7700 miles on it. Far as the abs ring. I read for this specific model the ring is on the axle. When I went to Chrysler they told me its in the bearing. Do you have an email so i can send you some pictures?

Do you have instagram? Mine is Jeray racing if you want to send pics there

We were intentionally lowering launch rpm to slow reaction. Too low we stumbled. Works well at 1500. It’s a cool 1/8th mile track. I think they run it pretty well. Too bad the car count was so low.

Aint that the truth about LED bulbs. The incandescent bulbs were a lot easier to find your spot. When everyone switched to LED bulbs, it really screwed me up for a whole year.

Lots of good information, appreciate that. Our 727 was built in the early 90’s stock valve body transgo stage 2 kit. Shifts at 5500 in drive. 6300 thru the traps. For consistency we let it do its thing. Sportsman class is 11.60 and slower foot brake. We dial in the 11.70’s to 11.80’s depending on weather. 9.8cr 408 small block, ported eddy heads isky .505 hyd cam. SS springs. We log every pass including weather and can dial on the money most times. We launch low rpm to slow the reaction time of the car to not redlight. Also we almost always have to chase a 14 sec or slower car so sitting on the converter is rough on it. We 60’ 1.54 to 1.58 depending on conditions. 26” tire 3.91 gear. Moving to a 28” front and rear next year. The old man ran the car from 98 to 2003 and it sat till 4 years ago when Ricky started running it full time. Again, really appreciate the input.

@@jerayracing seems as I remember small block A bodies track spec being a 9X28 on a 4.10 into the 11s and then 4.30 on the same tire into the 10s with minimum 50% weight distribution, they use the same # of pinion teeth - but 2 teeth different on the ring. are you running a 489 - 742 or dana? I never ran past the 12s with an automatic valve body, just always installed a manual for the positive shift, and to take the governor out of the equation, i do remember people saying if it was left auto - to use the 5.0 ratio band lever which was added to the hemi trans back in the day for racing -

489 case with a suregrip 2.9 ratio lever. 48%rear weight, car weighs 2960lbs. 275 50 15 Hoosier drag radial. Working on consistency with the lights. Maybe another year of sportsman then new combo to go quicker.

@@jerayracing that weight is awesome... 489 case, i think i have about 9 or 10 of them around here and a couple of my 1960s prized Dana Trac Loks for them, I worked in a Speed Shop building Top Fuel - Alcohol funny cars and pro stocks, so I met a lot of old Heros, but because i ran my little street cars, the info I got from Super Stock Racers was important to me, people like Al Eckstrand (The Lawman) Lawrence Rountree (Deputy Dodge) and the awesome Dan Dvorak. 40 years ago, working in a machine shop - i had finally got the parts together to build my first engine to play at the track, I quickly learned the do's and don'ts with suspension, trans and definitely rear ends, I loved the 8 3/4 for the ease of changing gear sets, but to never use the 740 and 741, the 742 worked but everyone bragged on the 489 - never had an issue, 8 years later i restored my 69 Road Runner, 2 years later I decided to build a serious engine for it, using the just released Indy 440-1 heads, after Ken Lazzari (Indy Cylinder Head) called me and told me to get rid of my 63 Max Wedge stuff. The new engine i built was a mild 800hp, built the trans to handle it, and took one of my 489s and Trac Loks, threw a 4.30 gear on and put 29.5 X 10.5s on it welded in sub-frame connectors, welded up my torque boxes, put a full bar in it and went racing, If i wasn't on the road working national events, I was racing my car.. about two years later - BANG ! the rear end breaks and the over speed tore the sprag (a Bolt in) right out of the trans, while building a new rear and trans - kept trying to figure out what happened - sometimes looking at the 3rd member for hours thinking, did i build it wrong - is the engine too much - is it the 3750# car weight ??? So, I get the car back together, the only change is I added Cal Tracs - a few years later in 2002, at a Big event, dialed in @ 10 something... right at the 1000' Boooom ! it felt like i ran over an elephant and was spinning at 126 mph according to the speed trap, between two cement walls... It took me 2 years to restore that thing, I really thought it was a goner, luckily it never touched the wall. the rear end broke again but, this time - the drive shaft got pretzeled, it literally broke the trans in half, and the yoke on the third member actually went thru the floorboard... a little bit later I was talking to Lawrence, he had opened the Atlanta Connection which later became The Moparts Connection (he sold about 14 yrs ago) when Dan came up and was looking at the car after we got it on the trailer and says "742 or 489?" I said 489 - Dan asked when was it last built? I told him about 4 years ago - his reaction was as if someone behind him stuck a sewing needle in his ass, now - Dan has always run the 489 for 40+ years but... He rebuilds them 2 or 3 times a season - here is where the problem is, the 742 has a straight pinion - the 489 is tapered and uses the crush sleeve, every time you launch the pinion is trying to move and starts deforming the crush sleeve, well - after 100 or 200 launches, at some point it will start to woller itself and loosen the sleeve until the pinion is sloppy enough to catch on the ring and break, so Dan says to Lawrence, isn't that new sleeve kit available for the 489? Lawrence says yep, and i ordered one on the spot, you take the crush sleeve out and put a spacer in so it it like the 742 - Great ! I bought that to put in My street car and did, so i run the Challenger which is a 93 octane 3650# car on a 4.10 and 29.5 ET Radials - thru the mufflers runs 11.20 to 11.40 depending on air, several yrs later in October 2010, I decide to see what the car will run without mufflers, so i dropped the pipes and ran a couple 11-0s, cool - made a couple adjustments and run a 10.90, even better... make a couple more adjustments and went to run it, burn out was fine, went to launch - the front starts to pick up, can tell its going to be a good 60' then... weeeeen, sounded like an RM80 wound out in first gear, front end comes down, and i think - F*#K... yep broke that one too, but this trans - all the special stuff i had in it, GONE - all that was salvageable was the deep pan-reverse manual valve body-my high dollar high speed anti shatter Drum-and the case. a reminder for you - never use a third member after this happens - the case has been stressed and will just do it again, i still have 8 3/4 rears in my 68 Cuda - My 71 Demon - but my GTX - Road Runner and Challenger all have Strange 60s in them now, the cost of one covers the cost of a trans alone...

The fronts are already super low, being able to get a taller tire in general would help a ton. Just have to find the right combination

What's super low?

22-23psi I believe

You can go to 16 you won't notice...I doubt you run much more in the rear tire or the front slicks on the fiesta

@jcnewbie3361 it doesn’t hurt to try. End goal is a 28” tire in the front but just gotta get thru this year

Everything is running great! Just trying to get my spot on the tree and we’ll be even better!

Wow that’s a lot. It’s a cool truck though

Definitely wasn’t expecting that heavy but it is what it is. Thanks for watching!

Thank you!

Pretty bad da normally, like 2500-4000. But we mostly base our dial off of water grains

@@jerayracing dang, if you would run at my home track in the early spring you’d go 11.50s.

@@Duster_Garage no doubt. Definitely still more in it with weather being a factor but have to work with what we have haha

Thanks! Trying to have a strong second half of the season