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Great info.. Thanks for your video sir.. Just one question, the output of fully functional car bridge rectifier normally is limited around 14.5 volt isn't it??? So the one you used in the video is a faulty one or what??

Hi brother. Your still there?

Good job

Yup, there's the little copper busbars I was talking about, hiding between the transitors and the caps. Looks the same inside as my silver one, which is a bit older than the blue ones...probably the same thing coming out of a different factory or something like. Those poor little lead acid batteries, having to push you at 82km/h. Yikes! Sounds like a good challenge. I was poking around on ebay looking for something to use as a smaller generator and the hyundai HSG/alter-motors were back, and actually in canada with free shipping for $100. I hate to guess hwat they'd want for shipping to get one to you, but if they do international shipping or if you can find one more locally, you could have some fun with it. Save the dead controller for parts, in case you ever blow a transistor in one of your other ones. Too bad you fried the logic side of things and didn't just blow one of those. Oh well, live and learn.

Hi brother. Are you ok? You habe been offline for a few days.

The volts that you see on your meter are literally meaningless because there is no current being generated or consumed! What is the point of these demonstrations? the moment you connect a load to the output it will be clear that it does not work the way you are suggesting it will!

Where can I purchase one of those bridge rectifier?

Did you use any sensor to this alternator

hi Tristan for starters you have the diodes running the same direction turn the positive side diode around then use the smallest motor too run the largest motor still have my doubts that it will run with out a flywheel

Nobody has yet to clearly show How many amps and volts are being produced by generator verses consumed by motor

I'm doing right now but haven't got videos posted I have schwinn chopper I cut the fork lower and put a next fat wheel in front I like your work 👍

Hey good to see you. I missed a couple videos it I’ll catch up. You have been cranking!!

I need a couple of those stickers. I collect it. How much when where do I send the money to?! Right on man; going all pro and stuff!

Cabt wait sir. Want to see what that voltage can do. For now i can only get lights and charge batteries. Let me know your results and good luck sir.

Hi guys I will be doing more full tests coming up soon.in this video iv only just finished putting it together 😂🎉 allsome work from cruzermans inventions 😁👍🦇🤠

I saw some of the videos Gérard did on this. Maybe he did and i didnt see it, but im curious on how much actual power you're getting. I am a believer in researching alternative energy sources and generation methods. But i do try to approach each experiment with a level of skepticism. That being said, id love to see a load test on the output power of the pump motor. By the way, you've put out some great videos in your time on RUclips. Ive always enjoyed when i come across something you've done. Appreciate you.

Can't wait to see more tests. I am excited just as your.😂😂

Congratulations brother. Now you got the 400volts, what you gonna do with it. For me it only lights LED bulbs and charge batteries but it can't drive any motor. Try and let me know. Maybe I am doing something wrong.

This man knows his trade. Those things look like magneto coils from a motorized bicycle.

I had the same set up you have without rewiring and i was getting 250 v and was lighting halogen bulbs and cooker coil at the same time. This could be a good Genset for rural and remote areas of africa. Peopl still using stick's for cooking and kerosene for lighting. Bad for environment.

Question? The one of 26 coils, can it rum a motorcycle that requires 72v 40A and be my power source to run the bike. I have not seen any video of anybody doing this. ( On board generator running the motorcycle)

Why isn't it McNabb, like McDonald's?

What is the principle of over-unity here? What is causing extra energy to come into the circuit? My friend sir T has built hundreds of different free energy motors but they aren't something you can just slap together and have it work right away.

G'day Triso. Great to see your still at it. I played with Gerards ideas 12 months ago, and have not got back to it yet with life distractions.. BUT........ I hooked up my 12v drive motor to an old fishing real to bring the RPM up on the drive to motor. love to send a picture. I think I uploaded a video of it to my channel. Keep at it bro.

Very clever, really like the usage of that drill system on the project. Thanks for sharing.

That is AWESOME Tristan ...a Friend of Mine, Mike from Faraday Research has Built One of These, and I Have All the Parts. Now I HAVE To build One ...Awesome Work as Usual Brother ..Keep On Keeping On

My multimeters shows more than 1200 volts but dry voltage. Not harmful

I noticed one thing that makes your motor brow. Note. Use flexible pipe to connect the DC motor to washer machine. Why? Coz the small magnet in washer machine needs to move in out as speed increases. Don't use solid connector. It happened to me till I went back to Gerald video

Wow! Wow !! Wow!! Same settings I have even using cordless motor. My problem is it's still browing my digital multimeter

Biggest thanks 😊👍🦇🌟🎉 from cruzermans inventions allsome

Hey wat about the the five wires coming from the controlller I’m testin no power

What's the capacitance value MF?

Awsome there is some good fun times to be had there Cruzerman so the race is on ahy ha ha good fun..thanks for explaning that.

This is the inside of this 2000watt controller 18 MOSFETs

Have a Great Weekend Tristan!! 😃👍🚴‍♂🚵‍♂

Will it charge the Start up battery Tristan ?

Will it charge the Start up battery Tristan ?

Don't see you making more video on this. Does this still work or battery ran out?

Very cool idea, very smart to manage to figure it out.

I come down you for trying to figure it out. I saw a guy install a washing machine motor on a bike and achieve 72 miles an hour. He doesn't show how he did it but impressive non the less. 72 volts and 72 miles an hour is ok. Never did find out how long he could go. I won't by an electric bike because they are weak cheap.

Right on, dang, it's powerful. Thanks for sharing.

👀👌🏴󠁧󠁢󠁥󠁮󠁧󠁿

How do you know its the fastest ever bike with an altinator conversion for a motor,

T"Free energy"...LOL. The two words I was hoping NOT to hear. Glad you mentioned buck/boost converters...they'd be a lot more efficient, assuming you want DC out.

Should have 100V FETs and 100V capacitors. 84V = 100.8V (12V charging at 14.4v each battery, or 24S lithium @ 4.2V max each) hot off the charge. And probably 2 little skinny copper bus-bars on the top of the board, rather than fat lines of solder on the bottom...or as well as. Have a look while you're inside and see if there's anything you can jumper to enable regen braking. I've done that successfully on a few controllers.

Nice bike. How are chopper-style bikes in tight corners?

Right on. Steady as she goes. Thanks for sharing.

If you can get your hands on one cheap (I bought a couple of them for $100 each), get a Hyundai Sonata (2011+) altermotor(starter/generator)...it's a PMSM, 95% efficient....the only drawback is that it doesn't have hall sensors(it has a resolver instead), so, like with a regular alternator or anything else running sensor less, it has little starting torque. 33rpm/V IIRC, so up to about 3000rpm usable. No field to energize. Designed for 270VDC, 8.5kw(or 10, depending on year), liquid cooled (I'd just fill it with coolant and let it dissipate naturally)...it should happily run off of one of these controllers and give you 3000w at 72v+. Any of the "light hybrid" altermotors could work and would have permanent magnets and be a lot more efficient. The early chevy ones were designed for 36V, i believe. You could also get a 10kw IMA motor out of an early Honda Insight, meant for 144VDC, so good for 5kw @ 72v, though you'd have to make support bearings for it, since it uses the engine's crankshaft to support it normally. Lots of options at reasonable prices. Speaking of prices...you can get a silver one that looks otherwise the same (short & fat with 3 screws on top) off flea bay for $50 with free shipping (at least here you can) and Ali for $65 with free shipping...that's the 3000w version, 60 or 80A...there's a longer one with 5 screws that's genuinely built for 80A for around $100; it has lovely, huge copper bus-bars inside, rather than the small ones on these 3 screw ones. Unfortunately I haven't found anything over 3000w for cheap that runs sensorless. If you want to go really cheap, you can get a 1500w/2000w, 48-72v, 40a long, skinny controller for a whopping $30 off flea bay, and if you want it to put out a constant 3000w, you trick it by putting ~48V to the power-on wire while putting 72v+ on the main red power wire, so it stays at 40A the whole time rather than less that it would if it thought it was on 72V. Controller barely gets warm running at 3000w, and you have a smaller controller that's easier to mount/hide than these fat ones.

Well that was about as clear as mud.

Hi Tristan, whats makes the alternator get very hot when i run it with 48 v controller?