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@@SomaTech-vd2bx I use a standard glass cutter, it cuts like normal glass just a bit harder! There is a video showing me cut ceramic glass, I will look for it later……

@@kevinyoung4053 thanks for your interest, I made this video just for entertainment but I have been testing vermiculite mixes for many years and tried compressing the stuff before. When using refractory cement, there is a very specific amount of water required but when combined with porous material it does not seem to work very well. So the amount of water or the time the graduals are soaked for can make or break the end result. When you compress the graduals the insulating properties are hugely affected and if the end product comes in contact with any moisture it will expand and crack! I think the board is made from vermiculite dust, clay and some other additives but the recipe is a mystery.

Wanted to say the same thing. Also use perlite instead of vermiculite maybe, as I think i read somewhere it can stand higher temps. Maybe there was not enough water in the mixture for the cement while curing. Or the ratio of cement to aggregate might not be optimal. The board probably has been pressed, thus preventing pockets. I'd suggest put a bit more foundry-cement it the mix, and let it cure under water, prevent it from drying out for at least 24 hours. Better yet, a whole week. Cheers !

Same idea when I saw this. ruclips.net/video/wzUXVwf_hOA/видео.htmlsi=P3M-wds7P8NWXP7N

Love the vortex stove. The link above is for honeydo carpenters water glass experiments

@@thedavesofourlives1 overfueling is when the fire produces to much gas (fuel) for the system to deal with . When this happens you will get partial and smoke pollution coming out of the chimney. It is not actually the wood burning but the gasses that the very hot wood produces, these gasses will catch fire inside the insulated fire box but if too much fuel at any time is produced then you get over fueling and in turn smoke. The upper chamber runs on wood gas, if there is too much being produced in the fire box, the upper glass will turn black and smoke will appear out of the chimney. It is a fine balance of temperature, air supply and resistance inside the system.

@@flattail yeah looks great and even better in the dark but … the curtain is a result of too much fuel burning at one time and ideally should not be showing!

@@ChrisDay-sx4lv i have been down that route over and over, it does not seem to work, there is now enough preheated air to feed the fire and supply the afterburner from one source. Yes you can see the effects of changes unlike most stoves that might not be burning clean but you just cant tell! However the vortex is a fickle thing!!

Hi, thanks for watching, Yes I have built quite a few designs, please look at my other videos for dimensions and other information.

@@davidprocter3578 A turbo vortex stove, I like it!

@@justin7030 Thanks, I had a damper on the chimney last year but it is in use else where at the moment!

Well I have lots of videos testing this stove, I have tried many configurations including as you suggest but thanks for getting involved and please keep watching.

@@foxfish7115 I will keep watching for shure, you make very interesting test! I would like in the future to do some tests myself. Right now i don't have the space.

Surprising how well it last ! There is a piece in use inside my vortex J tube that is doing fine after many long burns…..

The bottom of the firebox is likely LESS of a torture test than the hottest part of the stove where the vortex happens.

@@orcoastgreenman yes, the cool air traveling through the gap will help but the top piece will go opaque soon….

@@orcoastgreenman Glass wont mind the temperature, its the temp difference across it that causes internal stress.

@@TheKlink easy with a good quality glass cutter, not so easy to cut holes! I have a video from a couple of years back where I show how to cut it, I will see if I can find it…..

Here you go, at around two minutes … ruclips.net/video/-RMG31ZTv1I/видео.htmlsi=sJw9hN2Gh44BWwGf

@@foxfish7115 ah mate, thank you kindly.

Not sure as yet which works best but in any case I feel there is a better solution somewhere! The stove works quite well but still remains a bit temperamental when reloading fresh fuel.

I am not sure what you mean, this video was an experament to test a bottom air inlet. I have found the top air inlet to be the better option.

@@foxfish7115 There is a third air inlet in the whirlpool inside your stove. I saw that you blocked the bottom air inlet.

@@刘博-v7i I did try that for a few fires but found the top air combined with the main air works best but I am always looking for new ideas….

@@pattiannepascual if you go back through my channel, there are several build videos.

Great setup. Thank you for that! I am trying to build the same with fire bricks. I can see the dimensions in your first video to be set at 200x300 (widthxheigth) but I can not see the depth. Is it the width of your vermiculite sheet 610 ...?

@@f.demascio1857 patten design, please dont copy without permission!

@@foxfish7115

Hi, do you mean the smoke from the new barrel? Water glass is not really needed, fire bricks will last 10 years or so, vermiculite seems to last 2 years but is very easy to replace.

@@foxfish7115 yes i was referring to the smoke from the new barrel. i understand it's a one off thing, though for this situation, I just came off a wood gas/gasifier video and the smoke pouring off of that seemed horrendous. i'm glad that the firebrick cracking isn't too much of an issue.

@@findingoutthehardway if you look back at last years vortex videos, you can see they can run with out any door at all but… dont like being re loaded like that!

Also wonder whether having the port run front to back could help reduce smoke on the glass at the start? I’m doing this with my current build and have found it’s very quick to burn clean, possibly because fuel is drawn into the flames rather than the flames being drawn across unburned fuel, so more combustion happens in the firebox and flames go straight into the vortex chamber right from the beginning.

@@findingoutthehardway thousands of potential configurations and setting! They are fickle stoves ……

@@ing.pagano no nothing like that, I have some build footage but no time to put it all together. Primary air is from a full length slot under the door 10 x 190mm secondary air comes in the sides through holes behind the glass. But it seems a correct size top box and exit is also important, I need to lite a few more fires under different conditions to prove it works though…

@@foxfish7115 single roof between firebox and vortex chamber?

@@jacobklingel1026 yes surprising! The other piece is at the top of the fire tunnel as has been in use for around 8 hours of burning so far and also looks fine.

When I went back in there this morning, there was a large amount of charcoal in the fire box, normally there would be none or very little. It must be because cool air was still flowing in as the fire was dying down and cooled down the area, if I pursue this method I would have to remember to close off the air.

@@foxfish7115 Thanks for the update! I wondered how much it would cool it off the glass, and it sounds like it cooled it off quite a bit! You could always collect the charcoal and make some biochar with it...

@@evapasche That is a six inch, system size is based on the chimney size. However you can build a 6” size and use a slightly larger chimney but not a smaller chimney .

@@al9929 I cant say for sure, it could be any of the popular ceramic glasses available, I get free off cuts from my local stove supplier. So some of it comes from cracked stove doors and some is offcuts from lager sheets. I will ask next time I visit the store….