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Thank God, there’s Fords out there! Keeps me employed thank you Ford!!

Mine's got over 233K miles, with only a spark plug/coil change so far. It's all about maintenance and driving habits. 😊

TF is a cam phaser?

Those engines are junk 😂

The joke is that ford stands for fix or repair daily. What the jokesters dont tell you is you'll be fixing/repairing it for 50 years because they're tough as nails and refuse to die, even if there are broken peices floating around in there hahahaha

Thanks most of what you did was correct, according to my experience, however the sector shaft adjustment should be done last, after fully adjusting the mesh into the worm, and centering both the steering wheel, and the lash.😀

I was disappointed with the show this year.

🤘🏽

Where in SC are you located? I'm just outside of Charleston. I have a 1930 truck.

Hard to see in the vid. Did you cut a small channel or just put a bevel on the edge of the bearing?

I am an automotive machinist. Been in the trade since 1990. I had a thrust bearing issue in my 94 C1500 4.3 V6 4L60E transmission. Owned the truck since new. It developed an odd rattle only under acceleration right outside of the warranty. Oil pressure was never an issue. Ran fine just that annoying rattle. About 95K the engine developed a dead miss. One cylinder had low compression. Made all the checks and discovered that a lifter was pumped up. Went in after the lifter issue. Drained the coolant. Got a little coolant in the oil so drained that out. I decided to pull the inspection cover off of the transmission and it was then I realized the thrust bearing was gone. Those V6 engines had an external balance weight on the flex plate and that was the noise I was hearing. The counter weight was hitting the back of the block. It did that for over 40k miles. Like yourself I had to try and figure out what the culprit was. I towed a smaller jet boat. Nothing giant. Couldn’t tell you the weight. The truck never even acted like it was hauling a load. Still yet all the mechanics I did machine work for told me that hauling anything with truck should not be done in overdrive. I did not know that. Then came the ballooned converter story. I had it checked out. Nothing was wrong with the converter or transmission. Took it to the shop I worked at and had the crank thrust welded and ground the crankshaft. All was like brand new. I never figured out anything direct. Could have been the towing I’ve just seen others tow heavier in the same type truck and never have any issues. Chalked it up to some times things happen and you don’t know why. That rebuild lasted for another 200K with no thrust issues. My daughter drove it to school for a year or two. All the single mothers my wife worked with drove it while they were saving for car repairs. Quite honestly I didn’t see the truck its last several years on the road. My niece was the last to drive it and called my wife to come get it. It was tired and worn out and I bet the oil change intervals were sad. One interesting issue surrounding thrust bearings arose while I was working for a machine shop that built very high end racing engines. Most for NHRA super comp dragsters. Several national title holders we built engines for. The shop had a great reputation for quality work. On one particular engine the thrust bearing issue paid a visit. Chewed up a $2500 crank shaft just the same way you’re looking at. You don’t weld these cranks up and turn them. You buy another brand new crankshaft. This was happening rapidly. Normally performance engines have a two part warranty. Breaks in two pieces you keep both pieces. In this case we had to do the work and buy the parts. It happened again. We asked the car owner to check this and that. “Ballooned converter”. Nothing doing. Then the third time around another racer that was our customer was gracious enough to help out the engine back in the car and that’s when the issue was noticed. It was a dragster with a four link rear end and a very short drive shaft. The four link was not adjusted correctly forcing the driveshaft too far into the transmission Bellhousing. The car owner was obviously sick. The very expensive two speed power glide had to be sent in for checks. The car was out back together and that engine lived for many seasons. That was the only time in the 30 plus years I’ve seen a resolution to a crank shaft thrust issue. So at best all I can really add is to scrutinize drive shaft length. The word was that the transmission in that car was fine. They just went through it and sent it back. So evidently it doesn’t work things over inside the transmission when this is the case. I’ve seen probably 20 or 30 engine come through the shop with thrust issues. Out of countless numbers of engines that didn’t. Just a shoulder shrug issue. Replace what needs replaced and send it back out. Outside of that one racing engine I’ve not known of another one that ever resurfaced for a persistent thrust wear issue. I will add that when you install that new crank check the thrust clearance without the thrust bearing main cap installed. Only with the upper thrust installed in the block. Note that thrust clearance number. Then after you know what the upper thrust bearing clearance is install the thrust main cap obviously with the thrust bearing in. I like to lightly snug down the thrust bearing cap. Say 15-20 lb.ft. of torque and use a soft plastic dead blow on the front and back of the crank. Give it a few good thumps back then do the same from the rear of the crank. I use a block of aluminum so I don’t tear up my dead blow hammers. Doing this will give the thrust main bearing cap a good chance and squaring itself up. Many engine builders do this. After that torque the cap down fully and check thrust bearing clearance once again. By doing this you’re identifying how square that thrust bearing cap is to the main cap saddle in the block. So obviously if you’re seeing a different reading with the thrust cap on you know that cap isn’t setting straight. Hope this helps out. You seem to be putting your due diligence in the right places with the information you have shared. Don’t fret over ball honing that block. I’ve tested cylinders with my Profilometer that had been ball honed only and it puts a very suitable surface in the bores. Take care.

You paid somebody to rebuild a 90+ year old engine? AND you';re not sure if they were qualified?

I bet you have a standard transmission behind that motor. That's a really common issue with a crankshaft that is running with a standard.

So you likely have a torque converter issue. Causing to much head pressure shoving the crank forward . I could be wrong but id have it checked. U probably know that though.

Tough decision ! I guess which ever one you already have the most parts for ! Either way it will be fun.....!

I would love more content to the doodlebug. 😊

Leave it as is ! A doodle bug is a home made farm tractor. Many were built, few survive. They used two transmissions to lower the ratio, along with the truck rear end, to pull a disc or scraper. They were used for everything you would use a tractor for. they were built during the depression when no one could afford to buy anything else !

I've always wanted a doodlebug. So if it was mine I would just enjoy it for what it is.

Thanks for posting this! I'm starting from this episode, looking forward to the rest!

Do a search on "swinging drawbar" for pics of what they were doing with the back "bumper" on these, they predate the 3 point hitch of later tractors. Here in the mountains they often had a small arch on the back for logging. I imagine both of your final drives are in low. A belly mower out of the pto cover and kick something up a gear?

Thanks for your infor on getting it started. I just bought one Michigan looked almost a copy...mine pretty rough I'm retired hope I'll get mine running too Thanks again, Jeff S.

Hi

First time doing this operation? There is nothing like experience before teaching someone else to do it right. (never use permitex on gasguts)

I've never seen a turbo model t 4 cylinder 😂

Put a v8 in it

I dig the boat seats! I thought about grabbing some, now I may have to! ...but first, an engine!

Cool glad it was rebuilt and sounds like it runs great 👍. I am about in the same situation I bought a 30 A 2 door the previous owner passed away in 2014 and it sat until last year. The motor was locked up it and he never put oil in it. So when I took it apart i found out he had it rebuilt and never got to start it. I am missing alot of parts to the car in general but im just about at the stage for a test run. Been slowly buying parts here and there. I look forward to seeing more videos from you 👍

The Doodlebug is super cool, but..... Autobots rule and Decepticons drool. :D

Looks and sounds great, well done 👍🏼

6V battery won't go dead as often. It could sit and sit, and still fire right up. Stick with the 6V system for reliability.😝👍

Did you even put oil in it ?

No doubt that it is not from the factory like that. They were done b y farmers almost all the time. Really creative some of them.

Mine had early '28 AA front, rear axles, transmission and steering; Wisconsin 2 cylinder air cooled motor; 4 inch angle side rails/heavy oak cross members. A potential widow maker, be careful of wheel stand from the low gearing and tire gripping.

Maybe Rat Rod T Bucket, from Brazil

Its a Doodle Bug! I would keep it as is and fix it up some then take it to some shows as a Doodle Bug! I would love to have one to play with!! Have fun whatever you do!!

I think you are mistaken on the drive train stuff. Most Doodle Bugs had two transmissions for the reason of gearing it way down. As well as the Big truck rear axle for the low gears. I wish I could find one close to me to pickup. would prefer Model A based Bug since I have parts already. Good luck with it. Hope it runs!!

I've had a couple of those myself! What you essentially have a 24 speed stump puller! Try putting the 4 speed in 4th and try driving it with just the front trans...you should be able to get at least 45mph...good luck! I'd love to have mine back!

Looks a fun little project to mess around with, not sure what I’d do with it but it does look fun.

You know, there are some torque wrenches somewhere!

…Super Inspiring Model ‘A’ Ford Video ! … I REALLY Enjoyed watching this… thanks for posting …. I be gonna fire up a similar story 1929 engine I picked up about 35 years ago soon… it’s the 4th quarter … what am I waiting for ?!? Good job, sir ✔️ RD in Michigan

My Dad is 85 years old and just finished pouring and line boring one last month.😎

I love flathead motors! We need more channels that restore them. Show things like how to do the babbit bearings and carbs ect....

That rear axle has had a hard life😁. The axle half shafts make great headers and the thickness of the material gives a nice exhaust tone.

well if it was rebuilt like grandpas garbage dose it you got screwed and scammed

Nice score on the engine ! I worked on A Model T engine a number of years ago and was mystified by the poured Babbitt bearings. Perhaps back in the day poured and ground bearings were easy to do with the right tools, but without the tools, that sort of stuff is impossible to do. It's certainly a nice supprise to find out the engine was rebuilt with zero hours on it.

A good job, well done; I can remember when model A Fords were a common sight on our Central Queensland roads. Ted from down under.

I would say that the crack originated from a thrown rod, probably at a slow revs. My experience with a thrown rod, a 1920s Rugby engine driving a machine to wash sapphire containing dirt/gravel/ore. I was all of 16 years old at this time. On the Gemfields, Central Highlands, Queensland, Australia, all manner of unregistered vehicles were driven about the diggings, my Buick being no exception. I used it to cart water and firewood to most of the older people in the town, I got 10 bob (10 shillings) ($1) for a drum of water and a pound for a load of fire wood ($2). We sawed the wood at the puddling plant, which was driven by a 40-year-old Rugby car engine. One day, we were sawing wood when the engine began to knock. Dad sent me home to get some oil, but that was not what was required. I arrived back to find a very discouraged Dad and a huge hole in the side of the engine with a connecting rod sticking out of it. This meant we also had no means of puddling the sapphire wash either. I took him home for a cup of tea. Later, I went back to look at the engine. I reasoned that if a single-cylinder engine drove it before, why do we need a four-cylinder one now? Maybe it would run OK on two cylinders, so I removed the sump and patched the hole with a piece of galvanized tin. Drilling holes in the cast with a hand drill. It was a Continental Red Seal motor; these people made reliable airplane engines in their day. Continental was stamped on the ‘Big-end’ bolt with a continuous underline from the C, weakening the bolt right where it broke. Number four-cylinder being damaged beyond economic repair. Running the firing order over in my mind, I removed the number one piston, thinking it would run evenly, but I hadn’t thought about the crankshaft balance and having pistons two and three traveling up and down together. I started it up, wow it acted like a kangaroo caught in a dingo trap. It nearly tore itself out of the ground. So, replacing number one and removing number three. This balanced the crankshaft, with one piston traveling up while the other traveled down. It ran OK but sounded like a Southern Cross diesel with a cold. We ran it like that for a long time without any trouble. Ted from down under.

I keep hoping to find one that nice ...glyptal, fresh babbitt, got lucky withthat one!

Very professional repair on the engine block. I can remember my dad doing that (but I had forgotten the process). The motor sounds good...

That's a pretty nifty block fix. As for the oversized pistons, I imagine you could have it sleeved if you really wanted to keep the block for whatever reason. Though realistically, the thing will probably outlive you if the rebuild was done right. It's fun looking at those old things and seeing just how simple they were. Pretty big contrast to the bikes I work on. 15 ponds of s**t in a 5 pound bag, magnesium blocks and aluminum bolts. Oh how I love aluminum bolts...🙄