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Hello and thank you for watching this video. I'd like to point out 2 things with your statement, since it is only partially correct. There is indeed an issue with miswiring from factory, but not as you described it. If the Hot & Neutral were indeed mis-wired at the receptable, then this unit would not function. GFCI designed within the last decade prevent power from being transmitted if the Live wire is in the wrong spot. And secondly, even in the case where the outlet would still allow power to go through, the gfci test function then would not work properly. Since in this video, and many other probably, I demonstrated that the unit powers on & the gfci trips with the test function, what we can determine is that the only problem is the misuse of color code for wires.. In other words, the wires are connected to the proper terminals on both the supply and load sides, but they're just using the wrong color wire (i.e the flipped them on both ends lol). :)

@@z07af This is actually only partially correct. I had the same issue with mine today so I took the entire machine apart (after finding the wiring incorrect at the plug). If you follow the wiring back to the motor, they have the white wire on the hot terminal of the plug. that white wire then routes through the power switch and then through the high pressure switch (as the black should do). Then it connects to the neutral side of the 1phase motor inside. This is incorrect. The hot side of the motor (where the thermal overload is wired) is then connected straight back to the neutral terminal (through the switch as well, both legs are switched). The machine actually needs to be rewired to be correct. The black should connect from the L terminal in the GFCI, through the switch, through the high pressure switch, through the thermal switch and then finally to the motor. Essentially, in short, the wires are installed reverse on both ends, yes, but then the motor itself is wired in reverse with the thermal overload on the neutral side. I have no idea why they do it like this, but it's not correct. It's either a QC issue or a design issue but the machine has to have a few wires swapped around to be wired correctly. The machine should be re-wired and the correct terminals used on the GFCI for this repair to be 100% correct. You are both partially right! After working in electrical/electronic manufacturing for years, i couldnt trust they did it right, and it turns out, they didnt. lol

Yeah it is weird.. but I just followed the same way. Maybe they're wired wrong from factory on the other end. If it was backwards I don't think it would work

@@z07af here's another youtuber replacing the gfci on a Ryobi and the wiring is the same as yours ruclips.net/video/uAuEJfo-7dE/видео.html WTH x 2!

Pressure washer was bought new. It came wired as described right from the factory.

I just replaced mine and was confused as well with the white wire on load and black on neutral. I wired it up the same as it came from the factory and it seems to work fine, but it's the opposite of the instructions that came with the new GFCI plug.

@@oldskoolbiker see my reply to the other comment below; i think from factory they just flipped the cable around (i.e they plugged black into the neutral terminal of the washer instead of the Live). also who knows where these were built, they might use different color standards there vs where the gfci plugs are made

Thank you!

ha! that will do it for sure next time, yeehaw brother 😂

online on home depot

No. Pulling fuse disables all power and ability to control the valves.

@@eagl3007 hey so if i pull the fuse i wont be able to put on quiet mode anymore. Will it throw any codes or anything after doing so?

@@AdrianRuiz-bw1it correct it will always be open. No codes