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Nice job!

What about a vapor barrier? In the northeast could a home go without a vapor barrier completely so the batts can let the vapor pass through in obit directions depending on the season?

Great innovation that fills a gap, well done 👍

Thanks so much for posting this - I wasn’t able to join live yesterday but enjoyed watching here.

Joe Lstiburek appearantly doesn"t trust the water repellent capabilities of TimberHP Board... a drainage gap behind the Timberboard is not needed. _If you want to apply it - because it makes you sleep better - make sure it's air sealed but vapor open at the top or you will loose lots of the insulating properties of the Timberboard._ All those control layers behind the TimberBoard are not needed... tape or caullk the seams of the structural sheathing (plywood, OSB, gypsum, MDF, hardboard,...) and you have an air sealing ("air control layer"), with a "vapor throttle". And use Timberboard at its full capabilities as a water control layer and insulation layer. If you don't trust the Timberoard as your water control layer, apply a UV resistant vapor open housewrap at the outside (underneath the siding/cladding).

This video is missing the biggest point for a healthy building and the biggest advantage of a product like TimberBoard. A house does not need to breath, that's correct but it must be able to *sweat* . This means that the outer surface and the inner surface of your walls and roof must have capillary properties so it can dry on the outside when it gets wet on the inside - i.e. due to condensation - and visa versa. A product like TimberBoard can do this, just like fibre cement boards, MDF (RWH),... Boards like OSB or plywood not really... Most membranes, foils, wraps, sticky shields,... are totally not capillary active and should therefore be avoided. 28:48 The amount of air barriers depends on the type of insulation you're using. If your insulation is more or less air and/or vapor open like TimberFill, cellulose, hemp, flax, any wool, ... you need *TWO* air barriers! One on each side of the insulation layer (warm side and cold side). And these air barriers need to be capillary active. All capillary active materials will also be vapor open which is a plus as your insulation will never be locked in inbetween two vapor closed layers. And all this counts for every climate zone.

Cant believe that end result when the installer opened that glass door, looks as good as a batt!

I would like to express my appreciation for getting to review your product line over the past year, including the various videos leading up to this one. However, I must convey that the overarching concept of "airtight" does not resonate with me, given my extensive experience of over forty years in natural and traditional historic restoration, as well as sustainable building practices. The assertion that "airtight" structures exhibit greater durability contradicts observable instances in contemporary architecture and the deleterious effects it has had on historic buildings that have been adapted to this unverified theoretical framework. In principle, it may function effectively. However, it is not constructed from sustainable and natural materials. Furthermore, it does not operate flawlessly without the aid of costly technology. Airtight building systems often fall short in terms of accessibility for DIY enthusiasts and lack long-term economic viability, particularly when aiming for a cost effective "turn-key" project by comparison to alternative natural and historically proven vernacular designs. This is especially true if the objective is to achieve sincere and honest sustainable architecture that is not only natural and durable over centuries but also sustainable and efficient day to day without dependence on technology, plastics and other industrial products. The majority of examples of "air-tight" architecture that have surpassed the 50-year threshold have not demonstrated success at all in my experience and the countless contractors I have met over the decades that "fix" these issues. The predominant number of these endeavors and theoretical forms of airtight architecture are emerging as "in failure" and are only now coming to light. A significant portion of the industries and the regulations associated with them are being propelled by sectors that benefit financially from them, particularly within HVAC, building wraps, and related fields. This concept can be regarded as a mere "theory"; however, its practical application often results in numerous long-term complications for architectural integrity. These complications range from problems such as mold proliferation and "building sickness" to various forms of interstitial moisture damage that can occur within walls, remaining undetected for decades. By the time such damage becomes apparent, it is frequently beyond effective repair, which stands in stark contrast to the assertions made by the commentator in the video. In the realm of established best practices for historic restoration, the use of "air-tight" systems or materials is considered illegal in numerous areas due to the detrimental effects they have had on the preservation of vintage vernacular architecture. The concept of draftproof and efficient natural architecture can be realized without the reliance on contemporary theories of "airtightness," nor the various plastic and industrial materials associated with them. Additionally, it is possible to forgo the mechanical and frequently costly high-tech HVAC systems, which are required to operate at a minimum efficiency of 80% to sustain such modern designs. I appreciate you sharing this video discussion, but I must strongly disagree with the content as I have stated above.

Would love to see the perspective of a designer or builder in a high (e.g. 40" annual) rainfall area

This is great! Thank You. Even better, however, would be a visual demonstration on how to construct the assembly, and any hints, tips, tricks, and pitfalls; this would be very much appreciated.

great description of the various wall assemblies - thanks!!

Do you still need to install a vapor barrier with this stuff?

These are some amazing conversations. Thank you for putting these out!

Would it be possible to add youtube chapters to these videos to break it up by topic for people who don't always have the time to listen to the whole thing? Thanks! Looking forward to installing our timberbatts this Friday.

cant find the stuff. hurry up and get it out we have jobs apparently for the stuff.

You could look for. Gutex. Pavatex. Or steico. All the same product.

I've tried to watch parts of some of your content, but I see you are continuing to make your teaching videos very distracting with background noise. We never had music playing in any of my classes when I was in school, but it's odd that many 'teaching' videos do have music. If you're interested in reaching out to those who need silence in the background to learn, I highly recommend you remove the music to make them more accessible to us. Currently, your videos are too draining for my learning style. It saddens me because I am extremely interested in WFI. I will add some sage advice that I tell other interesting RUclipsrs who use noise in their videos: it's much easier for someone watching to add their own music in the background if that's their learning style. But for those of us who can't learn with background noise, we cannot turn the music off while still hearing the dialogue. Plus, it's less time consuming for you to produce the videos without the added noise. If you could reply to let me know if you plan to make your videos accessible, I'd appreciate it. Please show me you're interested in accommodating those of us with different learning styles (or those with cognitive challenges due to injuries or genetic conditions). Thank you.

Remove the irritating music from your video!

how does it fare against mice? Looks like hamster cage shavings

Thanks for your tour on October 17, 2023. It has been very informative and I wish you all success! It was so exciting to learn your insulation material, its production process and benefits for carbon-smart architecture and living environments!, Meral Ekincioglu, Ph.D.

Assuming you need some Z-Girt or something to attach cladding to or furring strips with extra long screws. Do you have a detail that shows this assembly?

Is this sold in California?

Can this be used on a roof under a metal roof? For approximately 1000 square feet? I have a manufactured home and I need to insulate with the doubling of electricity has doubled in the last few years. Decades ago this kind of product was used on homes. My Dad had a home that was built about 1958 or 1959 and he bought the home in 1960. This was in the Yakima Valley in Washington. The house had this kind of insulation with no fiberglass and it worked. You need to get this on The Build Show with Matt Risinger.

I am very interested in the information you provide, however, having background music really takes away from your message. As you continue, PLEASE STOP adding distracting music. I want to hear what's being said, but it's drains my energy because my brain has to try to pick out the words amidst all the noise. I know a lot of videos have these concerts as their 'background,' but for people like me who have challenges focusing when there are other things going on, it's discouraging me from even considering watching any more of your videos. If you're able to remove the music from your already posted videos, that would be great, but if not, then I beg you to not have the music in any new videos. If someone wants to listen to music in the background, they can play whatever music they want on their device. But when it's already embedded into your content, I can't turn it off. I will wait to subscribe until I find out what you plan to do in this regard. But just know, if you remove the music, you'll have a new subscriber and I'll be able to 'like' your content. Thank you.

Really great product! I am planning on using your product when I build my home.