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First - if you have a question about reloading....ask!!! There are no dumb questions when dealing with something as dangerous/important as reloading. Second, never just blindly trust what someone on the internet says (yes, that includes me). Think about what people write, and see if the logic makes sense. This will help you learn and solve problems. To answer your question = I take out the bushing or expander ball so I am not messing with the neck diameter - only the shoulder bump. Assuming your die to close to where you want it - Start by indicating location of die and locking ring while the die is in the press. I just use a sharpie by making a line on the locking ring and threads on die. Then, unlock the locking ring (usually an allen wrench). Now if you want more shoulder bump - screw the die down. If you want less, unscrew the die up. When you get close to where you want to be, it will take very small changes (this is where the indicating mark comes in handy) Once you get the desired shoulder bump tighten the allen bolt on the locking ring. Make a new indicator mark - erase (dissolve) the other one. You might have to use a pliers (RCBS also make a die tool) to get the die to unscrew from the press. It is not unusual for this to take 3,4, 5 or more cases to get the die where you want. Don't worry - just shoot them and they will fireform back. Hope this helps. Feel free to email me at ctdshooting@gmail.com and we can discuss futher.

Absolutely. Excess oil in the chamber can cause pressure spikes. I use very little oil and usually fireform while breaking in the barrel, so I clean often. Always do what you think is safe

You are welcome. I hope you were able to add some items to your current "playbook"

HAHAH - well thanks Champ!!!!

The theory is It allows the shoulder to have some momentum to help more fully form to the chamber. It was taught to me by several different Hall of Fame shooters. It has always worked for me, so I have not tried anything else. Thanks for the question.

Mostly - yes. There is some new brass out there that I have not used, so I can not say yes to all of them. I do not anneal before fireforming on chambers where I can buy factory brass. However, when I have to expand the necks (such as 220 Russian to 6 ppc or (as shown in video) 6 BR to 30 BR) I will anneal that brass before fireforming. Hope this helps clear that up.

the last match i shot, i had to aim past the target area line to hit the ten... the guys that tried to sight in & aim dead on did terrible.. aiming off was best for me..

Currently, I am shooting the 30BR. My first barrel was a 30x47, then the NBRSA changed their case capacity rule which allowed me to move to the 30BR. BAT 3 Lug. Krieger barrel 1/17 twist. Shooting BIB 118-10. Yes, my favorite of the 3 short range games.

@@kirkethridge2500 At this year's Nationals, that is what I did at the last match of VFS. I did not want to lose my reference point, in case my condition came back. It didn't. I was aiming at the edge of the red. It worked - but I get nervous holding that far off.

I appreciate the info. I will do some research.

TK Nolan made those flags. He no longer makes them. Charlie Hood and David Halblom used to make doubles, but neither do anymore. I am currently researching other individuals who would be willing to make double vane flags.

You're welcome. I hope you are able to use some of the information.

Thank you for the great question. This video was filmed at my personal range and I was the only one within the square mile section. The muzzle was pointed in a safe direction. At actual tournaments, when their are other people around, the HUGE majority of Benchrest shooters have their muzzles down or up and are very aware of what you pointed out. Firearm safety is and should be of the utmost importance and there are no exceptions for shooters who break those rules during competition.

You're very welcome. Hope you are able to use some of the information

Thank you. Hope you were able to use some of the information.

Glad you found the video useful. Sorry for the resolution, rookie video making mistake. Lots of ways to skin a cat, but this one definitely works. Thanks for the positive comment

@@ctdshootingnever noticed. Guess I was distracted by the awesome explanation 👍

Excellent question!!!! For my custom barrels, the gunsmith tells me the dimensions. For my factory rifles, I just use the SAAMI specs. I realize that may not be 100% accurate, but I have never had good luck with chamber casts. Hope this helps

Sorry for my delayed response, I was in New Mexico at a tournament. To quickly answer your question = the bullet touches the bottom of the grooves. Longer answer = land diameter is slightly smaller than the groove diameter which "grips" the bullet making it spin to the twist rate of the rifle. Bullets usually measure slightly larger than the groove diameter. Otherwise some of the gasses/pressure would escape around the sides of the bullet. For example: on a 30 cal barrel the land diameter (sometimes called minor diameter) is roughly .300". The groove diameter (major) is .308. 30 cal bullets measure .308x. Please keep in mind there are machining tolerances that may influence those numbers slightly. Hope this helps

Thanks for the comment. I'm pretty sure I said the black was NOT the carbon - or at least not all of it. Thanks

You're welcome. Hope you enjoyed it and maybe was able to add something to your current process. Yea, I have a tuner on my LV 30 BR, but not on this or my Hunter rifle. Thanks for the comment.

Sounds like a pretty solid set up!!!

Has this neck been expanded? (for example to 6 mm) Generally inside donuts form below where the bullet is seated and really don't affect anything. If your rifle is shooting the way you want, I would leave them alone. If the donut is interfering with the seating depth or neck tension then yes you can purchase an inside reamer to take them out. You will have to measure very precisely as to only get the donut - not the neck walls. Caution - You might want to remeasure for tension and clearance after you do this - just in case you took off more than just the donut. Hope this helps.

@ctdshooting yes been expanded. Yes the donut it right at the flat base line of my bullet. I just noticed when I placed a bullet base down in the case. I had a lil resistance but I don't think it's interfering with seating depth

You're probably good to go and if the rifle is shooting good - then I would no mess with it. In my experience the donut (both outside and inside) were formed during expansion. When you outside neck turn you take the outside donut off. When I make the 30 BR brass I get the same thing. I have different inside neck reamers to just barely skim the inside of the neck which removes this inside donut. However, many great shooters (some Hall of Famers) don't mess with the inside donut. Hope this helps.@@redraiderreloading7612

excellent magazines!!

Thanks for the question. This video shows and explains my initial placement. ruclips.net/video/wEHCrR_umxs/видео.html Specifically at 11:24. But...each range has it's important spots. In terms of priority - I wish there was a simple answer for you. Can't miss your first two flags - but each range will have it's most important flags. Experience is the only help there - that is why locals always have an advantage. Hope this helps.

Thank you for the comment. I'm glad you are able to take a few things to use.

Thank you for these positive words. I plan on making more, but in much worse conditions.

@ctdshooting here in South Texas summer makes for some pretty rough conditions for filming. Everything overheats. It's tough to lose all your downrange footage!

@@chrislang5659 I read ya...I've never been there during that time of year, but have heard stories. I need to learn a lot about camera placement and securing the camera at target. I'm planning on trying again tomorrow (supposed to have sustained winds in the 30's) Should make for an entertaining video - if I can keep equipment from falling over.

I'm using the BIB 112 - 7. It is built off the .925 jacket. I'm just under 3,100 ft/sec. Using 34.7 gr of H4198. I've shot 118-10 but nothing higher. To be honest, not sure how high I could go in the 17 twist. But....I do know a person who knows. Let me know if you want me to find out.

@@ctdshooting That twist rate just seemed odd to me for a 30 cal gun. Then I looked up BIB and I see that is the bullet to use.

@@bobrau1 Most of the competitors that I shoot with are using 1/17 or 1/18 with 112 to 118 gr bullets. For longer/Heavier bullets a faster twist rate would be needed.

Thank you for the comment - glad the video was worth your time.

Thank you

Yes, great cartridge

HAHAHA - is this Nagal? HAHAHAHA - set your bar higher!!!

Thank you. See you in a month(ish)

Hope there was something in the video that applies to your Dasher. Keep me posted. Thanks

@@ctdshooting looks like bak to 2208 . 2209 fiddly to tune in current Barrel

You're welcome. Hope you were able to add something to your setup.

Hi Hal. I always make sure the necks are clean before resizing (I don't want the fouling to get on the neck bushing). Primer pockets...I really don't know if it makes a difference. I clean them just because I have control over that variable, but if I forget before priming, I don't worry about it. Hope this answers your question.

Much appreciate the kind words

Thanks for the question. H380 has been the most accurate - however it has a small window - so I stopped using it. I have been having great success with R-15 for the past 4 seasons with 52 gr bullets. I want to try a few newer powders this year to see if they can beat R-15, but I doubt they will. Hope this helps.

Have you ever tried ALLIANT AR COMP?

@@billcarlson852 I currently use that in my Rock River 223. I have never tried it in a 250.

Absolutely! But...hope you don't have to use it.

I use Bison to give me a rough idea. Practice fine tunes that information. Do you have a source you would like to share? Thanks for the comment.

@@ctdshooting I don't know that I can post a link here but shooters calculator. It's a site with lots of useful stuff. Set up with good data, at 200 yards it is within a click of hornady 4dof for my .22lr using norma tac-22. If you shoot long range with that stuff, use .150 G1, it'll work better than the factory supplied .132.

@@zackl3094 Thank you for the information. I will do some research. Thank you

Absolutely. I hope you are able to add one or two items to your current process.

I'm glad you have something that works for you.

@@ctdshooting I will admit I like that chart you use ; very easy to understand range for neck tension.

Thank you for the positive comment and question. Bill Dittman made the poles. They are super nice. Craig Nagel also makes some really nice flag poles. I am hesitant to give their contact information here, but if you want more details please email me at ctdshooting@gmail.com. Thanks!!

Sorry for the delayed reponse. For some reason this went to my held section. Not necessarily. If it is working for you - keep doing it. The two major drawbacks of excessive headspace are case growth and work hardening. Hope this helps

Thanks for the question. Most currently made seating stems (found in the seater die itself) contact the ogive. However, you should still check with a bullet to make sure. I'm not sure if that answered your question good enough. If not, please send me an email (ctdshooting@gmail.com) and I'll try to explain further. Or...I could make a quick video if you would rather prefer that.

You're welcome. Hope you were able to add something to your "tool box" Stanley

There were 2 rifles. The green one is my Light Varmint competition rifle chambered in 30BR. But, I'm guessing you were asking about the tan colored rifle. That is a Defiance Tenacity Action in a McMillian Game Warden stock with a Lilja barrel chambered in 6 mm Rem AI. Timney trigger and Sightron S-Tac scope. The current load pushes a 95 gr pill around 3,500 ft/sec. It's pretty nice. There will be an article about it in Varmint Hunter magazine next Fall. Thanks for asking.

@@ctdshooting yes the tan one.

Much appreciate the kind words. Glad you were able to find something useful.

Hi so ok i know that 1.5 to 4 thousands neck clearance to the proper clearance, but whats yiu recommend neck tension thanks​@@ctdshooting

@@austincitylimits642 .002 is what I consider ideal neck clearance. For hunting rifles, I like to start at .003" of neck tension. Competition rifles, I will start around .004" tension. The rifle will tell you what it wants from there by the group shapes and sizes.

@@ctdshooting thank you for your reply, I have never gotten this precise with reloading, just trying to increase my accuracy from 3/4 moa to .5 mao thanks

@@austincitylimits642 Depending on the quality of your rifle, that may be a big hurdle to cross. May I suggest using wind flags to get you there? Good shooting

You're welcome. I am a big believer that everything has to work together to achieve tight groups. Wind flags are a big piece of that puzzle. If there are any other topics you would like covered send me an email. Have a great summer. Stanley ctdshooting@gmail.com

You are welcome. I very much appreciate your kind words. I hope I am able to give you another tool to put in your existing tool box.

Absolutely not a dumb question. Neck clearance is the OBM (covered in this video and in depth in this one: ruclips.net/video/xs4h_zscjVc/видео.html) subtracted from the neck chamber dimension. For any of my custom barrels, the gunsmith tells me what the chamber dimension is. For my over-the-counter hunting barrels you can use a chamber cast or you can use the SAMMI specs. Personally, for hunting barrels, I use the quick check method for neck clearance (roughly 3:10 in this video) For hunting barrels I feel that is good enough because there are much bigger pieces to the precision puzzle. Now, neck tension....that's a different story and much easier to control. Hope this helps