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concrete absolutely can explode when exposed to extreme heat. in most situations you get a large number of small explosions on or near the surface, which is called spalling, and is usually caused by a very hot material making contact with cold concrete. If you heat a larger mass of concrete directly so that the entire mass heats up instead of just the surface the moisture inside the concrete will heat up faster than it can vaporize through the solid concrete and will build pressure until it reaches the failure point and explodes. Its a pretty well known phenomenon, and I've seen it happen in person multiple times.

@northernforgeblacksmith Just stop. Your fear mongering holds no sway here... Saying it over and over doesn't make it true

You do you friend. Thanks for the video engagement.

@northernforgeblacksmith Why do you people think "thanks for the engagement" is some kind of 'gotcha?' Every old man on every farm in my hometown in Iowa had a tractor tire filled with concrete used as a forge, but some dude with an internet connection read some nonsense and now he knows better. 😏

Hey, thanks for the question. Yes, I can and do work outside during the winter. Even today, while my work shop does have a roof to keep the snow off, the sides are all open to the elements. The biggest 2 problem with working outside in the cold is my propane tank freezing up (generally not an issue until 0F or lower) and my feet getting cold. If you want to work outside in the winter time, invest in some good wool socks and good insulated work boots to keep your feet warm as long as possible.

Glad you enjoyed! I strive to be informative.

Glad you enjoyed!

Thanks!

Not a bad idea. There are lots of small improvements that can be made to this design to make it more durable and efficient.

I know. I put it together with what I had on hand at the time, I've meant to go back and replace the mud ring, but its one of those things that I just never remember to go back to it except when I'm busy with something else.

I'm glad you enjoyed it. I love to hear when something I posted here has helped someone else get out and build something of their own.

If you look up the process of levigating, its pretty simple to remove the clay from the soil, then you can use the clay for this project and put the rest of the soil back in the garden!

Concrete can and will literally explode if put under high heat due to the water in the concrete creating steam pressure. These explosions are typically small and isolated to the surface, and we refer to it as spalling.

Thats a great idea! Unfortunately I live way inland (like 300 miles) so drift wood is not something I have much access too, but I have run a solid fuel forge on rabbit poop before.

I use the power hammer in nearly all of my other videos, but here is a link anyway that will take you to a video where I use the power hammer. ruclips.net/video/p2NnUwfufD8/видео.html

it does work. you can see it running in almost every other video I have uploaded.

It does work, you can see it running in most of my other videos.

Thanks. It has saved my shoulder a lot of work over the last couple years.

Thank you!

Thanks! I spent a lot of time trying to find something that would work for a 20+ inch pully, and I was really excited when I thought of using the bike wheel.

@@northernforgeblacksmith hell yeah dude awesome job save the fucking shoulder too, a lot better than swinging the hammer that much.

The sprockets of the bike wheel are welded to a reducing coupling which is then welded to the bolt that functions as the drive shaft.

@@northernforgeblacksmith How did you ensure they were concentric? Also, what size reducer and I am assuming it’s black pipe?

I eyeballed it. The reducer was 2 inches on the large end so it would fit over the smallest sprocket and that helped line everything up. The smaller end is either 3/4 or 1 (I don't remember exactly) since it was the smallest they had with 2 inch on the other side.

@@northernforgeblacksmith does it wobble a lot?

It wobbles a bit since it wasn't all perfectly straight when I welded it, but it doesn't flex hardly at all.

It is fully functional. You can see it running in most of my videos.

You can check out almost all of my other videos to see it running.

the hammer does strike at a bit of an angle depending on the thickness of the material being worked. I build this one to strike flat on about 3/4 thick, but change in angle is pretty minimal for anything from about 1/4 to 1 1/4.

building a hammer is a great way to go if you have the tools and materials to do it. It will also give you a great appreciation for figuring out how the hammer works.

I assume you mean the cam. I used a combination of measuring a freehand. The sizing is based on how fast I wanted the hammer to strike and how high I wanted the hammer to rise. then I drew a circle on the wood, followed by the second larger circle. I calculated how much increase in size would need to happen per section of the cam and made some marks then freehanded the curve between the marks.

thank you very much!

Thank you for asking instead of being rude. This is one of my older videos, and the day I recorded this it was too cold to get the forge running (tank freeze-up) so I did not have it running. You can see the hammer running in many of my other videos though. I do have plans on re-recording this video with a demo of it running. I never realized it would cause so many people to be upset.

it does work. I didn't run it in this particular video because this was done last winter and it was too cold that day to run the forge (tank freeze-up). You can see the hammer running in many of my other videos.

Thanks, you can see the hammer running in most of my videos.

Thanks, I didn't realize there was a different name for the bearings when they are mounted this way. I just thought they were a different shape of pillow block.

I would have to back and look through my old posts to be 100% sure, but I'm pretty sure I used a 12lb hammer that got made heavier by welding it to the steel arm.

I use a butcher block brush.

Thanks friend! I'll try to make one for my dulcine for Xmas@@northernforgeblacksmith

It works very well. You can see it running in many of my other videos.

thanks, I appreciate it.

yeah, it did end up with a pretty aggressive taper. On the next one I made I will probably try and put a bit more flare into the transition so the taper can be less aggressive near the end. The fact that it isn't hardened definitely makes it easier to deform, but I think using a bit thicker material there would probably solve the issue just as well.

Thanks! I like the to char handles to remove splinters and burs from sanding without going into higher grits. And I like the color of it.

Thanks! I want to provide information to new smiths so they don't have to figure out things the hard way like I did.

Thanks. Christ Centered Ironworks has a design similar that actually moves the pivot point of the hammer up and down to achieve the adjustment. I think if I ever give this design adjustable height I will do it by making thr top of the anvil interchangable. Then I could add different tooling shapes too.

Also what type of steel did you use for this bick?

The hammer could definitely be designed to have a higher swing for more power, but I my springs can only stretch so far before they deform permanently, and I wanted to work within the parameters of parts I would be able to get locally.

I don't know the exact steel, I work with primarily recycled materials, but I believe this was made with a piece of a hydraulic pin, which I believe are usually made from a medium carbon steel.

Thank you very much!