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I also have the same range with single or dual motors on my 11+. Also, after more than two years, I haven't noticed any battery degradation. I always drive the same route to my workplace 35 km total, and it always starts with 67V and I return with 58V. I believe it has some 20 more kms in it after that which is noticeably less than what vsett claimed it should do. I have to admit I never juiced it all the way, never bellow 57V, actually, maybe that is the secret why my battery seems like brand new. If I could change something on my 11+ is the weight and brake discs that are the same like on bicycle 40kg lighter than this beast. Discs should be thicker, they bend and squeak.

Bro you're missing two screws from your rear fender. Though it's been a year so it probably already fell off a while ago 😂 Mine did a couple days ago lol.

good job bro

Young Frank Hall Maria Allen Steven

Hello , at what voltages does your vsett 10+ turn itself off and how many volts are there with a fully charged battery? Drive safe

I got a 2024 model, hope nothing goes wrong!

Also worth checking the tension of the shock mounting bolts (f & r) regularly, particularly if you hear a knocking sound over even small bumps. And the correct tire pressure before you ride, makes a huge difference to its handling, top speed and total distance.

I use my lights all the time because even in sunlight you often encounter shade under trees over bike lanes on the road. I do the same on my high end carbon road bicycle, because i really don't trust many of the motorists out there today that haven't riden either, or are not spatially aware.

I'm getting the 25.6ah how far can i go on a full charge going 40km the entire time

Vsett 9+b was built better

That's sick bro - you rock!!

For fender screw, what’s is the right size to purchase?

So think of that so-called bulb headlight as a magnifying glass so basically it’s kind of like a projector light on a regular vehicle it projects a clearer light and isn’t all fuzzy and saturated I personally love the headlight on this scooter. Yes, it is low and it doesn’t get that much ground light but at the same time it’s bright enough for you to see what’s in front of you even what the light isn’t shining on.

Seems like my 25Ah LG version isnt too much off, or lets say it fits pretty nice. Going yesterday 37 km and over 500m uphill and back down with partially regeneration activated. 24 km/h avg speed. I enjoyed uphill speeds of 30-40 km/h, was driving MTB trail and a short passage on the road going 60km/h, so i dont even tried to get the max range out of it. Just enjoying the nice weather. After those 37 km i had 53V left in the battery, "low" enough to recharge it anyways. On another trip, i went with my buddy on his moped (Puch Maxi L, tuned), we were driving constantly like 30-50 km/h and i even had to go in Single Motor/Eco the last few km at this trip, only coming 30-35 km and nearly drained the battery until BMS cutoff. I never had the chance (or even want to...) to test range at maximum 25 km/h and less hills, its too annoying to drive that far with 20-25 km/h. If i split the range test into multiple days, some days i would push the throttle for sure more to enjoy the ride.

Can you share link for handlebars ?

Im looking into a Vsett 10+, can you still recommend it? Its a early model with Nutt brakes (and the seller said they are not leaking) and was undergoing a lot of tuning, mainly stronger and better parts. Is such a scooter a good deal? I would have to pay like 1500€ for a 25Ah LG battery version, including adjustable (oil) dampeners, steering dampener and a complete "redesign" to look like an IOHawk which is limited mostly to 25 km/h.

That's a great video thanks. I have the same scooter, with the new display. Something weird happened recently, maybe after a small hole on the road. I loose power...then, the scoot would not accelerate anymore. Display is on, but totally locked, could not do anything. No power, but display on. Buttons not responding. I disconnected the controler cable to restart everything, and it worked again. But I'm worried. Did the scooter feel a shock and go into alarm? I have no idea. On the other hand, I find the battery level indicator very inaccurate, I never know how much battery I have left. Within a few seconds of accelerating, it drops to almost zero and starts flashing, only to return to a normal gauge at cruising speed. This inaccuracy prevents me from being at ease with the battery. Should I trust the voltage indicator instead? What is the minimum level of that indicator? Remember that I'm talking about the new display. Apart from this, great scooter!

Question. When you took it in for repair why didn't they replace the whole thing if the crack was already there makes sense right to replace.

Kodel vaziuodamas tiek daug kontaktuoji su kitais?

I get between 28 and 33 miles out of my Chinese 20.8ah battery vsett 10+ but I only have 500 miles on it. Punch level 3 always dual motor and 60% power in p settings. I weigh 175lbs.

fluid comes out becouse of low quality oil or oil ring. The same happends with all Ultron scooters. If u want a good ones try Goodtaste GT03 , these same brakes are with name: XOD XD-D700 and NFOX B015. These Comes On Hiley Tiger 10 scooter. No issues after 6500km on my brothers scooter and from what I see in my day job (scooter repair shop) - these brakes has no complain issues with other scooters where these brakes are on. You dont need shimano or Nutts. (Also Hiley Tiger 10 is better as vsett 10 vesions. I have driven both and lots of 60v scoots. Tiger 10 is unbeatable in parameter/quality/price).

do u think that vsett 10+ is still a worthy buy in the current year? i mean it is coming to be several years old by now. btw, labas :D

I hate that trigger throttle! I raced moto cross for many years and the throttle type is best but the thumb is not bad either That will stop me from buying this scooter, otherwise I really like it

Okay first of all don't buy from these companies anymore if they're using cheap parts and parts are breaking that is a definite sign that that company is not reliable especially on quality control, most of these companies do not care, especially if you're going 45 mph even you need something reliable this is why I've always stuck with dualtron mini motors scooters super high quality Little bit more money but completely, worth it they come very well packed, lots of aftermarket parts to make it your scooter, and you got to love a company that always answers their phone no excuse super reliable John and Chris some of the nicest people in the world up in San Francisco headquarters saving up for my thunder 3 can't wait

Veset you should be ashamed

Should have bought a dultron have over a thousand miles on mine and hasn't done any other thing like that and that's using aftermarket parts too for my kicktail

first of all, are you still using it? 1:52 - did you able to unscrew those bolts? i am pretty sure i can find replecaments but removing them would be the pain in the ass. 3:08 - your steering bar is indeed looks nice, i guess bar itself was easy enough to change but how about the handles/signals etc? did you transfer them on your old bar to new one or did you buy one that comes with it? 3:49 - that crack is bonekiller as well. i was actually ask if its a crack just on the paint because of the bent metal, but i got my answer on 4:46. i dont know how does suspensions feels but i guess its the price of the using one that placed vertical and set in "extended part of the shaft/deck", not diagonally like on some models that set on "main shaft/deck" my guess, its happened because of your weight but logicly it should happened every 10+ rider at some point. in my opinion its a design error but still, i can call sturdy enough if it hold itself for 6500ish km with 110kg rider. (not judging, i'm around 97kg, and my 2 years old 5500km mi pro 2 is already screaming me to dump her, lol) how about the milage/battery health? what was your max range compared to earlier and now? are you using dual or single mode for rides? and do you think riding in dual or single mode affected the milage you have now?

Good info

Those stoopid controllers. It should be made to be capable of working at least 20,000+ km without problems, these scooters are as expensive as some 15 years old cars which are driven 500,000km and can hold on still driving them for tens of thousands of kilometers, and those scooters are brand new having problems before 5k kms is just disgusting. Is it that hard to put some good capable of high voltage controller + 2 high quality motors, solid construction, suspension and wheel construction... Always will be the chinese trash builds. If germans or japans start doing electric scooters they will be much more solid.

Does anybody know the size of the screws looking at replacing with titanium screws

the shock stiffness on jumps causes the crack problem. The rider with his weight pushes it down and it starts to crack in the middle. Physics.

❤

Mine beast is on the way to me now, cant wait to hop on it man..i guess knowing myself i will drive it on max settings yea..with the kick start so my kid don’t wreck it by pushing throttle in place. So i can expect around 30-40km at those settings with biggest battery. And its totally good for me. I don’t need more than 10-15 km per day for commuting purposes. Thanks again for the video man! Cheers!

Tighten suspension

Try carbon peist or both clasic MTB wheal and don't cut it buy 800cm and then cut it at 780cm than go to 750 is my sweat spot all my bikes and scuters hawe 750 steering wheel. Its to mee sweat spot.

Ita all ok but caring bastard is hewy but it's flys without eny buying additional parts . I nail him 66 an 75kmh but that was on mobile I didn't put on garmin. But this scooter us for people who liwe 15,20km from town cos I'm in center and I haw too wait too properly try the spead, and its too big for EU bicikle lains i had it 2 weaks and its beast but for center I rather use my Vsett8 his younger brother . But next gen off 10+ is mine

My 8+ got soooooo loose that it started falling apart. The way to fix this is take each screw off and clean the screw and the inside threads and then apply blue loctite, then put the screws back on and hope to God the cheap ass Vsett screws don't get stripped and the heads don't break off. I have 3 broken screws, 2 stripped screws, and the back reflector got so loose it fell off on day 1

Hey, my rubber caps fell off to

Wait a minute I am looking to buy one so yes or no should I get 1?

I have the Vsett 8+ and I've had it for about 8 months and I regret buying it. It has sooooo many problems. The screws are made so cheap. The 2 screws that hold the black plastic piece that keeps all of the components inside the deck in place both broke. One broke by it's self out of no where and fell out and has been missing for months. I tried to unscrew the other remaining screw to open it up to see if there is room to put an AirTag inside my scooter. I tried unscrewing the screw and it just broke and fell out. Both screws snapped in half and are stuck deep inside. I ended up supergluing it closed so now I don't know how I am going to open it when my AirTag battery dies in a year. Also the screws become sooo loose over time. I tightened all of the screws and they become loose again in a week or 2. The solution is to remove each screw and clean the grease and oil off of them as well as inside the hole that the screws go in and then apply blue loctite to each screw. It completely solved this problem but it was a little late because the day after I got it. I noticed the back reflector fell off because of how loose it got and it's now lost outside somewhere. Also I had another screw head snap off and 2 screws get stripped. And one screw that keeps the back wheel closed isn't stripped but the threads on the inside of the wheel for that screw are stripped. Another problem I had was the scooter just kept going by itself, the throttle was messing up and acting like I was pulling it, this would happen randomly and almost caused me to fall off backwards and at a crosswalk, it almost caused my scooter to ride out into traffic by itself, apparently this was caused by the screw on the back/bottom of the throttle not being as tight as possible. Also the left break cable used to be harder to pull than the right and over time, it's gotten harder and harder to pull, a few weeks ago, the left break fully locked up and is impossible to pull unless I pry like hell with both hands, then it goes in but does not come out unless I pull as hard as possible on the break cable by the back wheel. I have to only use the right break. Also the tiny hole that the break cable on the front wheel rests in is super shallow so about once every 2 months, if I pull the front break as hard as I can, it will slip out of that hole causing the front break to completely stop working, this caused me to almost get hit by a car once. Another problem I have is that a few weeks ago also, the front wheel started to random stop giving power as if I were riding in single motor mode, this always happens after riding over large cracks and bumps like at the end of my driveway or some sidewalk cross walks, then it starts working after a minute or 30 seconds or sometimes up to 5 minutes, I have no idea why it does this. Also for some reason the rubber wire coating that comes out of the grips and is used for the turn signals is pulled out some leaving the raw wires exposed to rain, also this is a small problem but for some reason the DDM button on the left Handel bar that you press to switch between single or double motor mode can spin freely, like the bottom can turn with your finger so the text that reads DDM can be crooked or upside down which looks really ugly and off putting. Also whoever put the screws on that holds the box with the DDM button in place put it on soooooo tight that I could not get it off. I even ended up breaking the included multi tool trying to get it off. The multi tool is soooooo weak that the metal allen wrenches got twisted up just trying to unscrew a screw. The manual even states not to use the multi tool for anything other than just the breaks and stuff on the bars but it's not even strong enough to Handel that. Also it does not come with every tool needed to do maintainence on the scooter, you need 2 Allen wrenches, one to hold some screws while you turn the screw on the other side, and 2 adjustable wrenches for the screws holding the suspension together. Also the customer service for Vsett/RevRides is really bad, I contacted them because a piece of my scooter got loose and fell off and they just did not reply. I contacted them again and they told me to just go to a hardware store and ask for that piece which I did and they did not have that piece. They told me that they could not send me a new piece. I ended up buying a similar looking piece from the Vsett website and the good part is they called me and told me it was the wrong piece and sent me the right one but when it came, it was the wrong piece than what they told me they shipped out. I sent it back and they sent me the right piece. I don't know why they told me that they could not send me one if they obviously could. I contacted them again about the wheel and break problem and they told me that I have to pay $100 to ship my scooter to them and $100 to ship it back and that I have to pay them $50 per hour for service. They told me that it starts at $50 per hour so it could be a lot more. I told them that the problems were caused by the scooter itself and that I believe it is still under warrant and they just did not reply and it's been over a week. Also both of my chargers broke. I had the metal ring around the top break off but it still works, and the other one, I had a metal prong inside the charger get bent making it super difficult to plug in sometimes. Also the plastic used in the connectors for the chargers is chipping, cracking, and breaking apart by it's self somehow. I feel like Vsett cuts soooo many corners when it comes to material quality. Yeah they're scooters look good and have good specs but they use the cheapest possible parts they can find which causes stuff like this to happen, broken and stripped screws, cracking metal, cheap electronics. Also when my scooter came, the front wheel was just unplugged and I didn't notice for the first day. I guarantee so many people will buy a Vsett and it will become sooooo loose that it will just begin to fall apart causing them to get injured eventually. I had one nut that holds the back wheel on get so lose by itself that it could turn with just my hand, if that happens on both sides, then imagine the wheel just falling off while riding 27 Miles per hour down hill and flying off and crashing. I've flew off my old electric skateboard going about 19 MPH and it hurt so bad so this could be very dangerous. If my Vsett eventually self destructs or breaks itself beyond repair and I can't get a replacement for free, I'm probably going to just buy the $4K Segway GT2, Segway is a good company and I will actually be able to understand the manuel

Al of these “off road “ scooters are overpriced shit. So glad I did not spend $2K on one. Me and my specialized stump jumper are happier too.

@Thomas Hi bro, i'm french i didn't understand everything, you changed the controller, what happened please?

Still a wonderful scooter I'm sure. I would have Vsett send you a replacement part. Or if you want, you could take it to a professional welder to fix it & re-inforce it. Although it may not look super fancy afterwards, so you would have to sand it down and re-paint it to make it look good again.

Hello. I think I also have a problem with the controller, only that's how I bought it, it's 3 weeks old and has 60 km. When it is on only one motor, that is the rear one, the scooter is very lazy. If I accelerate it while keeping it blocked from moving forward, the front wheel spins very strongly and the back wheel has no power to spin, it stays put...but if I get on the scooter it works, only it's slow. In short, the rear wheel is at 20% of the power of the front engine. I don't know how your rear engine is. If you raise the front wheel and accelerate only the rear engine spins at idle making a burn, or yours doesn't have the power to spin at idle either. I don't know if the rear motor really needs to pull less even though both are 1400w or if it's just like that for me. If you could leave me an answer I would be happy. Thank you very much and good luck.

I guess the crack should be build from forged alloy in next production

I love my Vsett and I get 100km range using the 2 speed with the range battery extender.

After riding Vsett 8 and Vsett 10+ I must say that there are one of most cuality scooters on the market for the price with 8 newer problem it is City beast. And with 10+ no one woble riding hige speads 60+ kmh and no stem moving its solid and good scooters. I love them.

I think that also the cause of the footrest to get cracked plus cheap bolts and weak material where the shocks is mounted. thanks for sharing.

Did you drove it in single motor mode verry often? or did you had habit to change dual/single motor mode while driving? Or switching on sport mode while driving? People say those things cause controller burning?

I think the rider weighs more than the scooter supports...