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why did it take that long to get to it omg....

Dude, THANK You!! I was having a mini panic attack when this happened to me.

The silver button under the battery compartment, push it in, and it'll pop out. Now adjust the aperture on the lens. The aperture blades should move now.

I just picked one of these up on FB Marketplace and through some combo of adding the power winder, putting a battery in (the one on the front of the body), and testing shutter speeds and settings, etc. I got the shutter stuck. And this was without the lens, mind you. I swapped 6V batteries several times and couldn’t get the shutter unstuck. I knew there had to be some weird trick to get it to work because it was working before. Who knew taking the battery out and then firing the shutter would do it 🤷‍♂️ Thanks for making a video about it!

I know this vid is old but what battery did you buy?

Damn, and I thought my camera had to get serviced. I took out the battery and was able to fire it at 250th of a second LOL. Gonna order a new battery, and I'll note to take it out when its not in use. Thanks for this vid.

Thaaank youuu!!!

Question for anyone... I have the OPPOSITE problem. My F1N will not work with a new 6V battery installed. When I remove the battery, the shutter will release normally and I can advance the film. But as as soon as I put the battery in, it stops working. I have checked that the new battery reads 6.03 V on my voltmeter.

Giving me Cypher from The Matrix vibes

i’ve could took mine apart and try to “fix” it but than i came across ur video and now i feel stupid.....insert the betty and click the button.....how simple

What the hell man 🤤 I have the same problem with my AE-1 Program. I am going to try and put a new battery. I hope it will work.

I personally think this is an excellent video. The F-1 I purchased a couple of weeks ago wasn't having the same problem because my camera is the very first F-1 and it's in pristine condition... No secondary battery for shutter release is necessary. However, YOU DID solve another concern I HAD, until now, with NOT being able to see the diaphragm/aperture blades move until the shutter is released on the FD lenses attached to this body. THANKS!!! And yes, your calm nature, patience, and thoroughness are at the correct cadence for THIS listener...

Thanks man and I wanna say that there is another way to check aperture blades - unpress dof button at the bottom right side of the lens.

7:39 The aperture blades don’t move to preserve the brightness in the viewfinder. If it would to move the viewfinder would get darker as you close down the aperture. You have the option to change that by pressing the button on the side, to the left of the lens. The silver button is called stop-down lever or depth-of-field preview button. To activate that, you have to remove your FD lens off "A" first then push down the button, now once you rotate and change your aperture, the blades move. Now again, the smaller your aperture the dimmer your viewfinder will be.

The Canon New F-1 is an electromechanical hybrid shutter. Shutter speeds from 1/125th to 1/2000th of a second + the flash sync speed of 1/90th + Bulb operate mechanically. Shutter speeds from 1/60th down to 8 seconds operate electronically. BUT, the mechanical part will work only in two cases: 1. With a battery if it’s fresh. 2. With the battery removed. As mentioned in the video, the battery in the New F-1 doesn’t work like in Leica M6 for example, i.e. to turn on the light meter. The New F-1 is operated by a computer chip and runs on circuits. The camera will not function if the battery is dead and is left inside, including the mechanical shutter speeds. To operate it mechanically, you have to remove battery. NOTE: Although I wrote the shutter is mechanically controlled from 1/125th to 1/2000th + 1/90th (flash sync speed) + Bulb, the speeds aren’t the same without a battery. With the battery removed, the camera shoots from 1/250th to 1/2000th + 1/90th (flash sync speed) + Bulb. So anywhere between 1/250th and 1/2000th works as intended without the battery. If you set your shutter dial at 1/125th it will shoot at 1/250th and if your shutter dial is any slower, from 1/60th down to 8 seconds all will be shot at 1/90th of a second. Bulb will work as bulb. There’s a simpler table summarizing all this here: www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/canonf1n/shutter/timechart.htm

thank you thank you thank you thank you thank you :)

mine was the lens... take out the lens... fire the shutter... works fine.... soligor f2.5 but your idea worked though. without the battery it would launch... and no I did not read the manual. Yes I'm a lazy man :)). Thanks though for the battery tip.

I can't believe I just watched a near 10 min video on why the shutter didn't release and finding out the solution was a missing battery. This video did not have to be this long lol.

Just changed the battery and still not working :( It was fine and then it got stuck just like yours.

well. mine "broke" nearly 4 years ago. i've watched this, i did the same, now it works and now i feel terribly stupid. 🤣 80s technology is too much for me i guess. Thank mate for this vid.

Are You Serious ?

and by the way all the SLR camera of that era had some kind of auto lens closing mechanism to make it easier to focus with the lens wide open and stop down to the desired aperture at the moment of the actual shot, otherwise it would be very difficult to focus at F16 for example. this is not a problem on a rangefinder but it is on an SLR camera

haha so funny!! didn't ocurre to you to download the user's manual?...anyways, the camera is supposed to work without a battery but limited to speeds between 1/2000 and 1/90 of a second fully mechanically and of course B and flash settings.

Had the same problem with my Canon AE-1. Bought a new battery, still did not work. After searching some more on google, I was convinced it was a broken bit stuck inside the wind gears. I had film inside the camera at this time, so for me to fix it, I first had to unload the film. So I did that. And then, suddenly, the wind lever worked again. Still not sure what happened here..

Loved this performance. Definitely Fired UP! Everyone should come to the Organizing for America San Francisco Headquarters at 2278 Market and help us call into battleground states to help persuade and/or turn out voters.