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Hi the pulleys were a kit that I purchased from Grainmaker - they take the output speed of the motor and reduce the speed (and increase torque) of the motor output to the proper speed of the mill. Regarding belts, you can just use a standard belt you can purchase on amazon or an auto parts store that would have the correct length and width. My suggestion would be to purchase a few of whichever length you may need.

@@rjzlwop3153 3800 SQ feet. We have a gas dryer but it runs both whole house AC units and also our oven

So I have a 1500 square-foot home I should be plenty good with the 2000?

@@rjzlwop3153 It really depends on what total wattage you want to cover when your power is out. We have 2 AC units plus the washer / dryer, ceiling fans, lights, etc. You need to add up the wattage of the items you want to run during the outage. Just be aware that some items like AC units have power surges upon start up so ensure whatever model you get has the correct surge capacity to be able to handle those items starting up.

@@MstrMark it's about as loud as an air conditioning unit outside of my house very quiet really

@@bruehlt I'm certainly no expert, but it looks like "Level I". If nothing else, I like the aesthetics of the design better than Generac, and 1800 RPM just has to be less nerve-wracking than 3600 RPM. I only wish that my gas meter wasn't 130 feet from my eclectically panel. And the powers that be seem intent on preventing DIY underground gas line installations, which means that I would have to pay plumber's wages for trench digging, even if I wanted to do rest of the work myself. As you pointed out, installation cost can exceed the cost of the generator itself. And every installer seems to prefer Generac, so they charge more to install all other brands.

Hi - I just used one that I bought at the local Lowes. I'm guessing it was 12 or 10 gauge steel?

@@bruehlt Does it extend below the height of the bottom shelf? It seems pretty tight back there for anything that's too thick.

I did not get the extended warranty. I did not need it - as so far everything regarding the unit has been great. I have only had one issue but it would not be a warranty issue. Lightning hit nearby and damaged the internet gateway feature. I had the local Cummins dealer come out and try to fix it - but they basically gave up....they couldn't fix it. So basically I don't have internet access to the generator but the generator itself is working without issues. I'm just disappointed with the local service dealer....I've done all maintenance on it myself, and it's pretty easy - similar to working on your car. The only thing that I have not done and would probably hire Cummins to do is if there is ever any service needed on the alternator - but that isn't supposed to be something that's needed for a long time.

@@bruehlt Have you done any planned maintenance on the engine other than oil changes and filters? I'm hearing that intake and exhaust valves should be adjusted at about 50-100hrs but I'm thinking that this mostly applies to those screaming air-cooled engines at 3600rpm. Your thoughts.

@@outovcntrl I have not since I don't have that many hours on the engine. I downloaded the service interval data and reviewed it awhile ago and the unit itself is fairly robust from a maintenance perspective. If I find the document I'll share

They sell a motor for it, or you can buy a kit to motorize it with your own motor.

Hi Chris, I did have the cloud connect but lightning took it out and I have been unable to get Cummins to fix it. Sadly I think they've given up. I would really like to have it as it's a useful feature but it's not required for the generator to work.

One thing to consider - where would diesel deliveries come from in a SHTF situation? I don't think anyone will be delivering diesel, meaning you need to have a huge ass tank that won't be replenished. SHTF won't be good for anyone regardless of your fuel source. The generator itself has held up great - but I did have an issue with a nearby lightning strike taking out the RS-485 internet gateway which I am still working with Cummins to get fixed.

Hi! I have not changed my mind. I am still in the midst of having an issue with the Internet connectivity, as last year we had a very close lightning strike that damaged a few things. The generator itself never got damaged but it took out the box that connects to it and the Internet. I'm still working with Cummins to try and get it fixed. Once I do I plan on posting an update video about surge suppressors that I bought that would have helped prevent that from happening.

@@bruehlt thanks! I look forward to seeing your update!

Glad it helped!

It really depends on which model you have. The cost listed sounds like its a 3600 RPM model, which will need more maintenance than an 1800 RPM model. I just have to change my oil once a year, sooner if its used more. Any generator that is used 6 days straight should have its oil changed. There really shouldn't be much from a maintenance perspective other than plugs, oil, coolant, and air filter in all honesty.

Thanks and fair point. There actually is another shifts m shut off valve by the meter as well which would allow for that

@@bruehlt again sir, your workmanship, quality, and factory like professional appearance of the job well done say it all. Thank for the reply as well. The valve at / by / near, the meter would mean cutting service to the entire property and re-lighting any electronic less lit devices. Owning two rentals, and having to go through this process myself just recently is what brought my attention to your impressive work to start with. I'm sure going forward you will remember it as well now. Peace

@@1stGregA the meter has two outputs - one to the house and one to the generator. The output to the generator is the one that has the valve, meaning the output to the house would not be impacted. I am planning on creating a new video in the near future as I've had some issues lately due to a nearby lightning strike that took out the RS-485 output to my board and I am trying to get it fixed by Cummins (which is not cheap by the way). A surge suppressor would have possibly prevented this.

@@bruehlt 10-4 on the piping. What a total bummer on the lightning strike. Nothing in that immaculate set up you have looks inexpensive and no doubt neither will that repair be. Good luck sir. Peace

LOL I always love this argument. And what happens wen you run out of diesel? No fuel source is infinite.

I read the stuff below. has anything changed?

@@outovcntrl I used FleetGuard CC2825, which is what the generator came with. I bought some off of Amazon but there are other places you can get it. You may be able to mix it with other compatible coolants but I didn't have the knowledge of what it mixes with and is compatible with. Coolant is tough since there are so many different types, compared to oil.

Travis, I decided to follow your lead on antifreeze. Luckily, I have a Cummins sales and service business within driving distance so I went down there and bought two gallons. I paid less than $40 which I thought was very reasonable. I found the price to be competitive with the name brands in automotive stores. While I was there I asked the salesperson about compatiblity with other brands. He printed out a page from their company's internal website. It was minimumly helpful. In the Installation Manual(A045R241 pg.15) the engine specifications call for the coolant to be 50% pure water and 50% ethylene glycol which suggest a plain vanilla antifreeze. Without going into the details of the various types(IAT, OAT, HOAT, & NOAT) of what can be mixed and what cannot, it appears that Cummins went simple. Their ES Compleat (CC2825) is compatible with other coolants as stated on the packaging. Using another universally compatible coolant to make-up level in emergency should be fine.

@@outovcntrl awesome info! Thank you!

Hi honestly I can't recall. I had purchased everything a few years ago now. I believe that the pipe that goes from the meter to the stub up under the ground is 2-3". Once it leaves the ground it appears to be about 1.5" I think? The installation manual has all of the correct pipe sizing to ensure the correct volume of gas that you need. I suggest you take a look at that as every case is going to be different.

Yes

It's usually the solar charge controller that causes the noise. That and switching power supplies. Using just the batteries there should be zero noise. If there were any it would come from the battery management system in each battery. Unfortunately the only way to avoid noise with a solar charge controller is to buy an expensive one. The brand I went with here wasn't cheap and has a good reputation for playing nice with the ham bands.

Still working strong with no issues! Sorry to hear about the vandalism issues!

Sorry to hear that!

@@bruehlt Actually I stand corrected. They sent me an email just this morning. Just filled out their questionnaire. Back on track.

Up where I am there are 2 service centers. Reading the manual, Cummins requires at 25 and 200 hours PER THE WARRANTY that you have to have your engine valves adjusted. I called the Cummins dealer near my house. They told me $900 plus travel expenses for the RS13AE Generator. So I called the other service center and he quoted me $220 plus 180$ travel expenses. IT HAS to be performed by a Certified Cummins Dealer. 25 hours is one day of running. and then I have to spend another $500 !? That's Crazy. The Cummins Dealer that is the 3rd Cummins installer told me that he doesn't do service and has NO IDEA how to adjust valves. huff

It will work but you need an external soundcard such as a Signalink. You can't use bluetooth, as that is specifically linked to the internal TNC of the radio.

With a Digirig it works

Maybe from propane to natural gas - you'd have to contact your manufacturer. Not diesel, that's a completely different engine.

The pulleys came from Grainmaker. The motor I ordered from Amzaon.

Do you have the motor in the motor base mount tight. Or is it loose, so the weight of the motor adds tension to the belt ?

Also, if you don’t mind, would you share the measurements between the motor arbor, and the jackshaft. And the jackshaft to the larger pulley (on the mill) center ?

@@michaelsorrentino7685 The motor is bolted tight against the mount. The belt is taught, I wouldn't say it's super tight - you don't want to make the belt too tight or you could damage the bearings.

What made you go with the 3/4hp, vs 1hp?

Honestly I'm not sure. I imagine that they can't deny you warranty service if something is truly defective

Which radios are you using? Are you using signalinks or another sound card? A lot depends on the settings of the computers and audio as well.

I did but I can't recall the size off of the top of my head. It is about 6-8 inches in depth I believe. I used rebar in it as well. I think it was about a half cubic yard.

It's made out of aluminum to ensure it doesn't rust

I believe it's their own

The side panels are off of the unit while making the video. Nothing is exposed to the elements when the unit is buttoned up.

The motor I bought from Amazon, although you can get it from a lot of places, search for "B319 Marathon Motor Blower Belted 3/4Hp 115/230 Volt Reversible 56 Frame 1725Rpm.". The gears I bought directly from grainmaker. If you look at their accessories for the model 99 they sell that as a kit that includes the pulleys and belts. The only thing I had to buy separately from those was the switch and power cord. Just be careful if you buy the motor as it's wired for 220 as it comes. You need to rewire a few jumpers to get it setup for 120v.

And yes by hand is tough, but it's good to have a manual method just in case the power goes out for a backup!

@@bruehlt Thanks so much for the great response.

@@bruehlt I like your set up, but I am confused with your comment above regarding that you have to buy another electric motor from Amazon but not one by Grainmaker?... or did you buy electric motor from Grainmaker then buy something else as an additional add on? I thought the electric motor that Grainmaker offers would be sufficient to use the mill with electric and not having to crank it manually. Please clarify, thank you.

@@mandiegarrett1706 Hi - the motorization kit does not include a motor, just the pulleys and belts to interface with a motor. They designed it to work with a motor that spins at 1725 RPM. I still had to buy the actual motor from Amazon (or other source) to make it work. Grainmaker does sell a motor for this mill but they charge a lot for it. This is just a cheaper option (which is shown here is just the pulleys / belts and buying a motor from Amazon). It's more work but if you are technically able to install it works just as well, for quite bit less money.