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thanks!! Really appreciate that. We will see if those legs hold over time. Right now, with the cabinets totally full, they weigh around 500 lbs. The legs together are rated for 1,200 lbs, so hopefully that's enough margin. But I guess we'll see if that number is accurate...

I don't have a complete guide yet, but in general, for the cabinet frame, there's the top (43.75 x 24), bottom (43.75 x 24), middle (42.25 x 24), left side (25.75 x 24), right side (25.75 x 24), and 6 divider pieces (each is 12.5 x 24). I think you'll need two 4 x 8 sheets total, but you'll have some scrap. The drawers are all made from three identical pieces of 1/2" plywood, each is 8 x 23. So for eight drawers, you'll need 24 of those. I have all the dimensions on my other video (if you skip to 3:25).

I don't, but I think I should put one together. It should just take a couple of hours to go back an figure out what I bought. The amount of material you'll need will be different depending on the number of cabinets you make and the dimensions (number of drawers, if they're sized bigger to fit CGC, etc.). The frame here is all 3/4" plywood, and the drawers are all 1/2" plywood. Everything is assembled with pocket screws, except for the plexiglass fronts which are attached with 3/4" size 4 metal screws. The legs are from Amazon (just search for "mid century modern legs"). The underside bracing is made from a couple of 2x4s (which youll see I planed in the video---totally optional step).

​@@spidermikevarietyshowA planer is the on thing you used I don't have. The main thing is wondering how many 4x8 sheets of plywood. It seems like maybe 1-3/4 inch and 1- 1/2 inch.

@@Lastson005 For the cabinet, there's the top (43.75 x 24), bottom (43.75 x 24), middle (42.25 x 24), left side (25.75 x 24), right side (25.75 x 24), and 6 divider pieces (each is 12.5 x 24). I think you'll need two 4 x 8 sheets total, but you'll have some scrap. The drawers are all made from three identical pieces of 1/2" plywood, each is 8 x 23. So for eight drawers, you'll need 24 of those.

Once it's built, it's definitely a space saver! Those long boxes take up a lot of room. I'm super lucky to have the space to build it.

Yes! I'm happy you liked the song!! I spent a little while trying to find a good storage solution from Ikea, but it was hard to find something that would accommodate my collection (3000+ books). With four short boxes, I bet there will be a few good options!

Thanks so much! Really appreciate that. In terms of books fading--yes, you're totally right. My cabinets won't see any direct sunlight, but they're also not in the dark. There is also UV glass that I'm looking into (I use Museum Glass for all my comic original art that I have framed), but in the meanwhile, I have some lower grade doubles of issues that I keep in the fronts. That way it's still nice to glance at the cabinets during the day :)

I appreciate the vote of confidence! But I'd rather just post the information for everyone to freely use. I've gotten so much free information and guidance from RUclips myself, I really just made this channel to pay it forward and share some of my lessons learned with other people. I find it's already hard enough (+daunting!) to get into a new hobby, so I'm hoping this makes it a bit more accessible.

That's a really great point. I think that's an upgrade that I need to do (and I hope it will be easy enough). I think maybe some 1/4" MDF would work?

Each drawer holds 200 (comfortably) and 210 (tight). That's based on typical comic books, there are some drawers that have annuals + thicker books, which need a bit more room.

You definitely should! I'm on the lookout for my next project now :)

@@spidermikevarietyshow 🍻🍻

Thank you!!! It's my new favourite piece of furniture.

Thanks so much!! Much appreciated.

Very true. I didn't realize how much heavier the modern stuff was until I picked up a box of glossy Venom books from the 90's. I think the cabinet weighs around 500 lbs fully loaded with books, so hopefully the legs can handle it (they should have a combined capacity of 1,200 lbs)--but of course, time will tell. I definitely couldn't move the cabinet frame by myself.

Thanks!

Yes!! I was wondering when someone was going to comment on that. I love that movie.

That seems a bit low, but I'd say most 3-ball games don't hit 100k points. Usually, though, if I play 7 or 8 games I'll crack 100k, rarely 200k. My all-time best was 700k, but it was insanely lucky. Will probably never repeat that. There are a few things that come to mind for why the score might be low--there are playfield adjustments you can make--there's a "conservative mode" and a"liberal mode". If you look at a PDF of the manual (there are a few online I've seen), you'll see that "conservative mode" is designed to end your games faster. My pin is set to "liberal mode". The only game switch that affects your score is "novelty mode" (switch 20) which gives 50,000 point bonuses for special and extra ball--I don't think I have this on.

@@spidermikevarietyshow thanka for this ill check the manual and check that setting

Can't wait to see it!!

Great question. I think it was altogether around $500. The most expensive pieces were the plywood sheets and the drawer slides. I got a good deal on the plexiglass fronts from a local plastics shop.

@@spidermikevarietyshow thank you

Hadn't thought of that! Great point.

That's a great option. I've seen some people put really amazing custom vinyl wraps on them and they look incredible.

Hahaha yes!

Thank you so much!

It really has been a dream come true after working for years in a tiny backyard!

Thank you!!

You could make a 2x2 cabinet or a 1x4 cabinet that would hold 800 books. And don't forget, comic book collections are like gases. They expand to fill the available space. So build the biggest cabinet you can!

You should! I took the idea from this guy (who is awesome for making this video 9y ago!): ruclips.net/video/qC9KGT7Fms4/видео.htmlsi=OuWjHYCYXmlwhkKZ

Thank you!!🙏🙏🙏

Thanks for the comment! It was Minwax wipe-on poly. It goes on really thin, so I've found that for a heavily used surface, I get great results with 4-5 coats instead of 2-3. I've even used it on guitar builds in the past, though in that case I'll do even more coats so I can properly level sand + polish it.

I hope it works out! One of my favourite RUclips channels is Stezstix Fix, and he's always so good about showing stuff that doesn't work--and he even makes videos of stuff he failed to fix! I find those videos really helpful.

This is the way. You're totally right. Wish I'd thought of that!

It's insane how they have shot up in price!

Sure did :)

I'd really recommend making one once your collection gets bigger than a few long boxes!

Thanks so much! 🙏

Yes, exactly. You'll connect that pin 11 to a NO switch which is connected to GND. On a low signal, it will enter bluetooth pairing mode.

Seriously?! I've got to try that on my next run. 😎

Good idea. ruclips.net/video/HMWMq932kxE/видео.htmlsi=8TrPwHvjFRsArTK7

No I want to cheat

Now that's a dream car right there.

Thanks! That's a great idea. I was thinking that maybe I should put in colour changing LED's as well.

It might be more practical to do that on a bass: fewer strings, and on a wider neck. On a guitar, you might eventually reach a point at which there's not enough wood left in the neck (or at least on the fretboard) for it to serve its musical function properly. Is the ultimate an LED for every string on every fret, with a different colour for A, B, C (etc.) AND the sharp & flat of each?

@@therealsouthpaw i agree that a 6,7,8 string guitar would be harder to pull off, versus a bass. I think that he should pursue both as I KNOW there is a market for modifications like this. It could look really incredible in the hands of some tech death bands that do a lot of shredding/tapping etc

​@@spike6385 Totally agree. Finger tapping looks really cool with all the LEDs lighting up. Would look really cool onstage at an industrial metal show.