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It's unavoidable. The best thing is to sort them by size to minimize high and low spots, especially on the joists. Good luck!

I’m not sure on the flashing either but spacing like I did is local code to attach to concrete block so I went with it. I had a situation similar to yours on my last house with missing flashing. I discovered it when replacing the sliding glass door and found the wood holding it up was rotted. Sigh. It sounds like you will have a great deck when you are done.

There is a double beam further out that they sit on. The spot pictured here is where I cut out for stairs, maybe didn't show that well. the one pictured essentially replaces the ledger board. The stairs fit between the double and the house itself. Other videos I published might show better what I did. It was inspected by city code enforcement, and they loved it. I hope that clarifies it a bit. When I get around to a video on the stairs and railings I'll be sure to address this part as well. Thanks for the question.

They went through the 4x4 and the notched header board, about another 1 3/4 inches I’m pretty sure they were 6 inch lags. They just have to be long enough to pass through all that wood with room for the bolts. Don’t neglect the washers on both sides they are critical. Good Luck!

Thanks, thats very kind.

For me it's the subtitles that were distracting

@@gregphillips4900 Thanks for the feedback, it helps.

@@Timsinterestingthings best of luck to you, my friend

Not AI-generated! I spent hours researching this and produced it MYSELF using Descript PRO. I have a decade of experience in thrift retail leadership, have run multi-million dollar second-hand operations, and my own eBay store.

Where I live, in Missouri, a small (mine is about 10 X 20) deck doesn't require an engineer unless there are unusual requirements. For example, a cantilever over 24" requires an engineer here, so mine is 23". I am sure there are other examples. Otherwise, a deck built to code and approved by the city inspector (who is an engineer) covers the bases in my area. Other states/municipalities may have different requirements. FYI, I passed the framing inspection on the first try. I'll post more about that soon. I don't remember how I came across him but his website is prodeckplans.com his name is Mike. He did a great job on the plans. I also asked him to do a materials list, but that wasn't great. The Lowe's Pro Desk did a better job. It cost around $150 and he had it done in a few days. I hope that helps! Good Luck.

About $150. I found him on the internet, gave him the drawings I turned in for a permit (I took drafting in high school) some photos of the work area, the city I live in and some notes on things he needed to know. He asked a questions back to clarify and I had the drawings a few days later. Hope that helps.

Good question. I ended up using it for blocking. The highly warped sections I tossed.

@@Timsinterestingthings I figured, I thought that some of your viewers would like the idea. Great work.

Thanks for the kind note. Since I am on a hill erosion is a bigger concern. To address that we will have stone under the deck with a barrier underneath. I also moved a gutter drain pipe from one corner to the other. That one has been an ongoing issue so I'll trench and pipe that. Hope that helps!

Thanks for the compliment. Nothing in advance of beginning work. I will put a barrier down and gravel on the ground under the deck. There is also a drain pipe right next to where the stairs will end, I will do some underground pipe when I do the concrete work for the stair landing.

If it takes five min to make five bucks is one thing. Taking an hour to do the same is another.

It's amazing how often thrift stores don't even know what they are. You have a superpower!

Thanks for jumping in! I follow several people and organizations in the Charity Shop world in England. This is my first shot at RUclips, and I expect it will evolve over time. I publish a new video every Tuesday at 6 a.m. (US Central) Feedback is welcome.

That’s Great !