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Hey! I used all the pieces of the main kit - and literally set it on a steel frame base - so you can definitely avoid using the leg kit altogether. As for the rest - I wouldn't necessarily suggest removing any extrusion from the standard kit as it makes building and squaring the sides to each other easy.

Great, thanks for the prompt reply! That makes things nice and simple

@@boko3155 Hey again, just curious what size/thickness steel you used for your main stretchers. I'm thinking as heavy as possible is best lol.

@@nakulah no worries. We used 2 in by 4-in steel tubing and it's actually only 1/8-in wall.

@@nakulah you could definitely go thicker to add weight. The other way to add some stiffness would be to add a steel angle inside of the steel tube. That would give a really good place to do bolt Downs to the main table and I think that would be my suggestion. One thing to consider as well on the newer machines. The placement of the sensor means that the end plates are a little bit wider than the ones I shown in this video and that means you can't just lap the 2x4 tube against itself. It will have a little bit of a gap. If you let me know your email I can send you a photo of what I mean.

I believe people have added them yes - the machine comes in NEMA 24 or 34 depending on your choice. Give a quick search to "avid clear path" and I bet you'll find someone who has done it! :)

Sorry I missed this! Thanks for the props!!!

I can't wait to do a follow up review of my feet.

Hey - we don't have plans - but it's essentially all made of 2x4 1/8" thick steel tube. I'll be whipping up another base for a 4x4 machine and will do better to share the process / dims.

Everything was slick when I bought - that was almost 4 yrs ago. These days I know from discussions online that their lead times are quite long - due to demand. I've always foiund their service to be quite helpful - and there is a good online group on Facebook as well.

Hey! Sorry just saw your comment I'll try to do some take off measurements for you.

Thank you! That would be greatly appreciated.

We do not run nearly that much production on it. I know there are lots of people using it for kitchens - check out some other videos on RUclips and maybe they will have a great answer for you! If you are processing 200 sheets a month I feel like you can justify an even more industrial machine! :)

We are located near Kitchener-Waterloo, in Ontario.

It will pay to spend extra on a tool changer and vacuum bed. In a cabinet shop environment will be doing repeat cuts holes drilling etc and you will save so much time having both. Worth taking a larger loan and going that route - even though it will be a significant investment. You could add both to an avid machine but I would suggest you research all of your options very heavily. A lot depends on your scale and age of your business and available finances / loan availability.

@@boko3155 thank you so much.

@@parkertrumble2894 best of luck!

@@boko3155 Thanks. Also what size and gauge is your custom steel frame you made?

Hey Karl! Sorry didn't respond earlier.

I honestly couldn't say - how many holes / what size of pieces are we talking?

@@boko3155 I was just thinking of a very basic 3 drawer cabinet. Let's just say 1. It's very hard trying to find the scope of one of these machines. I'm going to spend around 12k and Avid is on my list. I'm not a pro cabinet builder so I was only wanting to know a round about time. Thanks for any help!

@@Kcustom216 no problem. Just wanted to give you a good answer! :) If you would use a 3/8" compression bit you can probably go through 3/4" material at about 300 inches per minute. Or more conservatively do two passes with a 1/4" bit at 300. ( Which would work out to 150inches per minute. So you can use that to rough estimate time based on the perimeters of your pieces. Great thing is many softwares will give you an estimated time right at the start. If you are going to be doing cabinet work - consider 2 things for the future as well to make things more efficient for you: automatic tool hanging and a vacuum table - since there are almost always multiple bit sizes needed for cabinet building and you won't have to spend time with work holding or tabs etc.

@@Kcustom216 so the answer is depending on how many parts and their complexity but less than half an hour. For example a 24"*34" piece of 3/4" material could take about 47 seconds to cut the perimeter if you are being fairly conservative.

Mickey that's a tough question to answer. There is nothing specific to an AVID machine but knowing where to start for CNC is a good question. Autocad has always been a fairly dependable 2d drawing software - and fusion360 is offered for free startup use. I would likely suggest learning to draw in fusion even though it isn't as fast as autocad - as it can then easily be translated into 3d from a sketch.

avidcnc.com

@@boko3155 le echare un vistaso amigo...Muchas gracias

Standard software for these machines is Mach 4 control software - and you can send files from CAD/CAM software like Vetric products or Fusion 360 etc. We use Vcarve for simple work and Fusion 360 for complex 3-dimensional work. We put this video together fairly quickly so I'm sorry it didn't have more detail / breakdown. It's pretty lacking! :) Thanks for the question!

Yeah we contemplated something like that! :) I really wanted to leave space open underneath for possibly routing a vacuum bed piping etc. I'll try to make a video of our cnc bit tack next!

🙏 Thanks!!!

We went full send and drill holes through from the top of the extrusion! Very easy and doesn't ruin it's integrity of the side aluminium profiles. It doesn't need much to connect it really. :)

Hey Dennis - we are located near Kitchener - W aterloo, in Ontario, Canada - but there are many people with these machines all over North America - I could post your work interest to the facebook group if you would like - what density of EVA foam are you looking to cut?

@@boko3155 yes, that would be great, I’m in south Mississippi. It’s 6mm EVA foam

@@dennistraina8154I'll post to the group and see if anyone can help you out. Do you have a way for them to contact you? You can send us an email info @ boko.ca and I'll forward it on.

@@boko3155 cool! I emailed you, thanks so much

Hey Clint! Not much to update on - cables were already re-routed in this video. They just needed to be tucked into electrical cabinet at the back. Let me know what you would like to see more detail on.

I'm speechless. Thanks for the support! :) :) :)

Thanks so much for your comment John! I've always felt DIY is the way to go - and that sharing is so important. I was lucky enough to be able to loan enough money to make this machine a possibility for our workshop but there are so many amazing benchtop and smaller footprint machines out there that are more than capable and what really gets exciting is combining these machines with 3d printing! Happy Retirement John! - all the best!

There is a new very affordable 4x4 machine coming soon...

Oooh I really like this question. Do you think a follow up video is in order? I would ask you what your interests are and cater to those. Since you have experience with other digital fabrication combining them will be what sets you apart! I have too many suggestions to list but I can tell you we are currently combining 3d printing / woodworking and CNC all the time! We do not have a CO2 laser yet but it will be a purchase for our next space.

@@boko3155 I have the other similar machines, but I'm not doing anything with them yet. It's the moving from being able to make items to selling them. I know I can create items in CAD like others have to replace broken parts, but how do you find a market and start selling. I even like T-slot/80-20 Extrusion. When I first found this product I looked at it as the (Adult Tinker Toy), remember those? I've made things for the house and could see making things for the garage all using these tools, but I never found out how my dad grew the business. With the combination of CNC cutter, CO2 Laser, 3D printing and an understanding of CAD you can build some great products.

@@davidthompson9359 I understand. When I started Boko I had no idea as to how I would gain clients - I made things and sold them at markets, but in the end it was word of mouth that got me my next job and the jobs beyond that. If you can provide a service that people value - word will spread and more jobs will come to you.

Thanks!

Love this comment! Thanks for the enthusiasm popviz!

Sorry I missed your comment! I drilled holes in the side aluminium extrusion and fastened it through to the steel frame! - no major issues with sagging - I'm sure it's not perfect - but for everything we are doing it hasn't caused us any issues.

Sorry Jamie I thought I responded to you! I think it's 2"x4" but I'll double check that today!

@@boko3155 What Gauge metal ?

@@richiemag22 It is 11 guage.

I totally appreciate input and criticism especially if it's constructive.

Check out AVID CNC website to price out a size that you are looking for - it's super easy on their website. :)

The prices change but check out AViD CNC website it's really easy to piece together a machine and price it out! :)

That sounds like it should be a simple fix - how big are your circles? send me a note on your machine details if you want some help!

@@boko3155 48x96 nema 23 with the avid spindle. I added dog holes to my spoil board recently at .75 inch diameter holes. Slightly offset from .75 for clearance. They and every circle is always off in one axis by an annoying amount. I'm the x direction the hole is .78 and in the y it is about .7935. I assume this doesn't show itself until I get to smaller things. Larger circles of 24 inches are slightly larger in the one direction but, doesn't matter too much. Other people have dialed theirs in very tight though and it drives me insane every time I have to compensate for the error

@@MichaelWoodrum what software are you using for your gcode?

@@boko3155 oh. Fusion and vectric aspire. Using the pp from them at first. Have modified for 4th axis and pass through commands in fusion. Mach 3 for control. It's always been an issue though. Using the 2010 screen set for mach3. Used to use the original

@@MichaelWoodrum that almost sounds like a calibration issue within mach 3 - but that would be exaggerated on bigger parts... Is there any give in your z axis assembly?

It was fun! I'll try to make future videos more catchy and interesting! :)

@@boko3155 all best wishes with that m8. As for me who assemblies his own cnc device your video was more than useful. Looking forward to watch some more of yours!

It was fun! Hoping to do even more useful videos in the future.

I'll have to get back to you on that! I'll try to remember to post a link!

I checked into it - I'm fairly certain we picked them up directly from a GATES Canada warehouse - we were in a rush for them so we ordered them through a local supplier of belts etc - and went to pick them up ourselves because of the rush -- they are: GATES POWERGRIP GT3 375-5MGT-15 Made in U.S.A.

@@boko3155 Thank you

Hey great question! We don't have it modelled or drawn up - I'll see if we can put something together.

@@boko3155 thanks I'm thinking of getting the same model and like not having the middle legs. Might have to adjust if they've moved the stops.

@@JimsRobot they have moved the stops but as I mentioned in the video - the extra space / ledge is pretty nice to have sometimes - and one issue with adjusting would be the legs will be in the way of the gantry if pulled in / in the way of the cable track. I would love to get a new machine and do it all over again! Have fun with it!

Thanks for the sub!

Hey Ben thanks! Could you explain what you mean by the dust protector? - The box at the back of the machine contains both the VFD box and the Stepper control box :) - our touchplate is run to the spindle so that we can us it anywhere within the work area no problem.

@@boko3155 I noticed at 3:45 there is a wire likely grounded to a screw holding down the custom white rail dust protector. Curious what that is!

@@bencapshew9257 ah! gatcha - that is just a wire I was using to test that the whole machine is grounded properly - ie. the main frame is grounded - as we were cutting some plastics and had some static buildup issues - not the machines fault. :)