Видео

@@lucianopanarelli1546 so you’re asking wether to go for the DUC306 or the XGT equivalent? I’ve used both. The 40V is a bit nicer, higher chain speed, bit more compact. My main question back to you would be: do you actually need an arborist saw like that? Unless you plan on climbing, a normal rear handle model might be a better option. Battery wise: as you have a bunch of 18V batteries already, getting a 2x18V model would be the sensible choice. The 40V saws are a bit better to my experience, but also more expensive and would push you to buy additional 40V batteries.

The Makita bar and chains are also just rebranded Oregon stuff. So when I wanted to upgrade the bar from 35cm to 40cm I just bought an Oregon one. Can’t say I’ve had much issues with these saws throwing their chain and the few times they did, it was probably my own fault not paying attention to chain tension.

Yes

232mm according to Makita’s website.

Що зараз із пилкою?

@@user-lm4pq6so6w хана пилке. За ремонт 10тыс. Просят.

Yes, the normal bar and chain are 3/8" pitch, the makita carving bar and chain are 1/4" pitch. So needed to swap the sprocket for makita's 1/4" sprocket. Sprocket, bar and chain are those which they ship with the carving version of this saw (DUC256cz).

@@frankv84 ahhhh thanks very much Man the 10 inch is wicked for small dismantles but wanted to get a smaller 1/4 for pruning etc, are all the parts available separately

@@Keithemery889 yeah, best to go to the Makita product page for the carving version and check the product numbers of the specific parts used on that saw, then search for those. And if you plan on swapping it between 1/4” and 3/8” in the field every now and then: order some extra lock rings that hold the sprocket in place as those have a tendency of flying off when you’re not careful during removal 😋

@@frankv84 you’re a legend thanks so much, I don’t know any other arborists where I’m from who use makita saws it’s weird since I defo prefer using the duc306 in a tree compared to the 201t

Stock chains are also Oregon, same type, just shipped in a plastic bag instead of cardboard box. So don’t expect any difference there. I believe the Makita bars are also rebranded Oregon bars, but not 100% sure. I believe I bought this one because at the time Makita wasn’t selling 40cm bars here or were hard to come by. So just bought the Oregon product instead.

@@frankv84 Yes. Makita takes Oregon. Bars and chains.

Probably just pushed it a bit too much (leveraging the spikes). As long as you let the saw do the work and prevent the bar from getting pinched it is usually not an issue. Doing a lot of heavy cutting can also cause it as that just heats up the batteries and at some point protection kicks in.

In boost mode the 306 is indeed a bit quicker. But you can’t run that all the time and as you state: for this type of work a rear handle is the better tool. Run time I’d expect would be similar except for any extra fast drain from using boost mode. But overall performance really isn’t a relevant aspect when deciding which of these two saws to buy. What you use it for is much more important. Arborist work up in the tree: pick the top handle. Pretty much anything else: rear handle.

Never weighed them, but based on Makita’s specs and comparing versions with the same bar length, the rear handle (DUC353z) is 5.3kg. Which is 400 grams heavier than the 4.9kg of the comparable top handle option (DUC356z). The DUC256CZ (which is effectively what I show here in the video) weighs 4.7kg (incl. batteries) according to specs.

they are for different uses. the duc353 (that i have) requires two hands for operating. the duc306 requires one hand. so if you have some branch to cut into pieces then you can hold that with one hand and cut with the other. the two hander is better for cutting larger stuff. both saws have the same engine or similar (1200 watts) and both can be fitted with different size chains. having the duc353 that is better for falling tress and cutting thicker stuff, i'm considering getting the one hander for cutting smaller stuff and working in trees. if you ask me the two hander is better for cutting the log he cut in the video. the log is already lifted a bit and fixed.

Me interesa cuanto cuesta

I bought it for just under €200 (just the saw itself) and I think it is still around that price point here at the moment. Best check your local dealers for details 🙂

Good point, and something I’ve also mentioned in reply to some of the comments: buy the saw that fits your use case, not just because it happens to have a boost mode. While the 306 can handle quite a bit more than just small limbs, it remains an arborist saw that is indeed not designed for cutting logs on the ground. I’ve now added a note to the description as well.

interested in the top handle since i already own a back handle saw. is 35 cm a comfortable length of blade or would the balance be better with a 30 cm blade on it?

@@bartvanhecke4623 I usually have a 30cm bar on the tophandle. Up in the tree I don’t really need more than that normally and then a longer bar just gets in the way more easily.

That heavily depends on the type and size of the wood of course. I believe there are some specific videos out there that do comparisons incl. run-time tests. To give an impression, this pile was cut with 1 set of 6Ah batteries (starting from logs about 1m long, cutting them in thirds, so 2 cuts for each 3 pieces of wood on the pile): tweakers.net/i/J37zRKwR3C5mx7kVy8h5r8p7KG4=/full-fit-in/4920x3264/filters:max_bytes(3145728):no_upscale():strip_icc():fill(white):strip_exif()/f/image/lhDtHSl2pwWuuuu18XB6ncEl.jpg?f=user_large

how do you work out 2 cuts per 3 pieces of wood 😂, are you Joe Biden?

​@@FroggysGoldProspecting if you have a log and cut it 2 times, the result isn't 3 pieces, einstein?

@@silviannistor what the fuk did I just write idiot, learn to read and understand what is written in a sentence, 2 cuts = 2 pieces in this instance, if the log was much smaller and two cuts made 3 equal pieces that’s different but not in this scenario Einstein.

@@silviannistor fkn Americans again trying to be clever making fools of themselves, you’re a Trumpster no doubt.

Anything specific you’d like to see?

Frank Vlamings 🤔 A video about the gear needed to get up and down a tree safely, with a chainsaw, and not fall out. Not sure just really liked your vid. Thought the format was great

@@loganross1861 thanks man! As I'm not a trained arborist myself (just doing it a bit as a hobby) I'm not sure I should be giving other people advice about climbing equipment, but perhaps I'll do something on my own setup some time. I started out with a cheap 'starter kit' from a local store with a simple arborist harness, 30m climbing line, some prusik cord and such. Since then added a bunch of Petzl gizmo's to make climbing a bit easier (ZigZag Plus mechanical prusik, Zillon lanyard, Pantin foot ascender, Croll L ascender).

The DUC353 is the more all-round saw of the two, but it would be pretty annoying to climb with. So personally I have both for a reason and I'd rather not make that choice at all. But if you don't do (much) work up in the trees, pick the 353. That's what I started with as well. The only reason I got the 306 is because I started to get more and more involved in jobs that involved pruning / breaking down a tree limb by limb.

@@frankv84 Thank you for your insight. I will likely be doing more pruning and tree climbing work than cutting fire wood so I think I might go for the top handle as my only saw. Also since I can borrow my neighbour's gas stihl should I need to drop a whole tree.

For cutting up a log (and most if not all ground work) you’d want to use a rear handle saw. So the DUC353 would be the best choice for that.

Thanks a lot for video and advice. I thought so also.

@@frankv84 спасибо. Как раз стоял перед выбором между 353 и 356. Я думал наоборот, что 356 была бы удобнее, но было сомнение. Вы его подтвердили.

Glad you found the video useful! Keep in mind though: both are brushless and apart from the boost mode there is not much difference in performance. In the end these are two different tools each with their own specific purpose. I can only recommend choosing the saw that best fits your purpose 🙂

@@frankv84 i think the different Performance depends on the length of the sword.

@@moppedmann123 you mean the 353 would have performed better with a 30cm bar like the 306 had?

@@frankv84 exactly 👍 because of lower resistance

@@moppedmann123 not sure if that would make too much difference but if I happen to think about it next time I'm working with the saws, I might swap the bars around and see.

No, the 353 doesn’t have that feature.

@@frankv84 yes, i know, i was more thinking about hacking it etc. i think it's just some sort of voltage regulation thing, would be nice to know, how it's done on other model..

@@izoyt from what I understand that mode allows you to bypass the protection electronics for a short period, drawing power straight from the batteries. Not sure if it would be possible to hack something like that into the 353. I’m not an electrical engineer. Interesting thought though 🙂 Perhaps find a donor 306 and transplant the internals into a 353 😋

@@frankv84 yes, bypassing the cut off protection etc was exactly my idea also, what else could it be? i hope some youtube geek will look into this, hehe..

Yes, you can control the chain speed by varying the trigger, if that's what you mean.

Here in NL the DUC306z is around €300, the DUC353z around €250. Both ex. batteries.

Да но 306 на турбо режиме пилит по бодрее чем 353,я не знал,что306 самая мощная в линейке у макиты.У меня 353,очень мощная пила,сегодня смотрел ролики,как 353 сравнивали с аккумуляторной хускварной и сетевой макитой на 1800вт,так вот 353 пилит быстрее чем эти две,мощность ее значит эквивалентна 2000вт,а 306 еще мощнее я думаю ее можно прировнять по мощности к средней бензопиле,интересно ее бы сраанить с деволтом флексвольт и милкой я думаю она им ничем не будет уступать,и даже может превзойдет.353 натягивает многие пилы,как бензо так и сетевые,знал бы,что 306 мощнее взял бы ее но у нее есть и свои минусы перед 353,у нее нет бесключевой натяжки цепи и шину почему то поставили на 30 см,а так пила огонь

@@АлександрЕмельянов-ч3н ещё разница конструктивная. Хват оператор другой (353 похожа на сетевую). Интересно было бы узнать какая при заготовке дров и валки удобнее.

@@АлександрЕмельянов-ч3н 306-й макиты в России нет, как и 406-ой. В продаже только модель 356, c шиной 350мм. По поводу ключевой натяжки и замены шины - это да, могли бы сделать безключевой. Хотя с другой стороны, цепь тянется только пока новая и на первых этапах работы. После обкатки она уже не требует подтяжки. ) Работал своей новой пилой 356-й и на ней новой цепочкой. Высадил три комплекта акб. и цепь не пришлось даже подтягивать. ))) С пилой DeWALT DCM575 Макиту 353 уже сравнивали в этом видео - ruclips.net/video/kWjVcfDC5_g/видео.html и к сожалению она лоханулась,.....хотя возможно её спецом завалили. Так-же в Ютубе есть видео, где американец сравнивает по быстроте работы 356-ю пилу с бензиновыми.

@@АлександрЕмельянов-ч3н приобрёл сегодня 303 будем работать.уду рыбачить у берегов попадаются ясени падшие никто несобирает так как в горочку приходится таскать.

That turned out great. Used it several times since, also for pork roulade: ruclips.net/video/M5z2Fa2QuIw/видео.html