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Awesome news. I would be keen to try that out with a statue size model. I think the batch files can help manage multiple pieces, but I haven't quite experimented with it yet.

Cheers mate, I was surprised at how well Lychee managed to incorporate FDM into the same design we all know from their resin slicer.

Awesome thank you. As far as cost, I used just over 4 litres of resin for this print. Which is ALOT of 32mm models for the same amount of resin. As for dollar cost well I will let you plug in what a 1 litre bottle of resin (that you use) would cost.

Hey great, thanks for the tip!

Thanks for subscribing and the tip on the Tamiya Epoxy Putty. Glad you liked the statue!

Yea, I don't use the rattle can much now either, the airbrush is a super handy tool for priming though!

I don't think so. I'm pretty sure Loot Studios only provides this model with the whole Vikings pack. As a heads up, loot Studios usually does some great discounts on Black Friday for older subscription bundles.

Thanks I will give it a go if I manage to get my hands on some. Cheers!

Yup it has been a go-to trick for me since I first tried it. As far as the Resin I use, I have always just used Anycubic Standard Resin. Although I have 5L of High Speed Resin to try out soon. But all of my videos have just been Anycubic Standard, although I have used different colours from White, Skin, Grey, Black and clear.

Yes, I would recommend this one for sure, unless you can afford the price tag on the M3 Max with it's HUGE build plate and Resin Vat feed straight from the bottle!

Thankyou, that sounds like a great tip ... straight from the source! I will have to try it out on my next multi part print.

Awesome, thanks. I will keep an eye out for it.

Yea, it seems to be inherent of any multi part project. I find it's not such an issue for single piece prints (complete model) or 32mm scale pieces as the area that can warp is pretty minimal. I have heard some people achieve pretty good results glueing the pieces before curing, but personally, I don't like the idea of glueing uncured resin. It's one downside over FDM but it makes up for it with such fine details on the models themselves.

@@upskillinglife Organic shapes definitely help in hiding the issue. Maybe I'm just naive, but I still hold out hope that there is some magic combination of resin/supports/curing that will bring us closer to perfection.

Thanks for the great comment. I am currently editing a video introducing my new resin printer. I would recommend having a look at that once I finish it as I look at the Anycubic M5s Pro. In my opinion it is an awesome beginners resin printer due to its simplified setup. If you do pull the trigger on a resin printer I think you will love the level of detail when compared to your FDM. Especially on really small .... and really large prints.

The model painting handle I use is one that Loot Studios released as a download. You can also find painting handle files on thingeverse to download for free. Games workshop also has a very small painting handle that is only good for small 32mm figures. I highly recommend printing one off!

Awesome, cheers. I plan on doing a video soon, repurposing some of my failed print collection into something useful.

It sounds like you have your process sorted out! I tend to use the fdm for functional prints like dice towers where the paint job is secondary. Or busts etc that I either don't want to paint or will just use a rattle can or airbrush. I have had great results airbrushing acrylic Ink straight on to white filament. Then I have my resin printer for detailed prints or display pieces. I am pretty stoked to have both options, now that my FDM printer is fast.

Cheers man. I hope it goes smooth for you, unlike your Neptune 4 Pro by the sounds of things. Thanks for the sub!

This model was printed on a Anycubic Mono X but it so happened to be the print that killed my printer. But with my next video I will introduce my new Anycubic Mono M5s Pro. So stay tuned for a look at that!

@@upskillinglife ah that sucks! Hopefully the new one works a charm

Yea, steel rollers because of the speed and resonance, I think. The bed is a magnetic, peel off textured plate.

Not too sure off the top of my head. I'm assuming you've tried a re-level and resonance test. Maybe it's a setting in your slicer, did you find the correct profile? I haven't had any trouble yet after any updates personally.

Not too many hours on the machine yet. I've probably used 2 kg of filament so far and have had to do no maintenence yet.

No sorry, I use Cura and Bambu slicers for FDM. Maybe check with a Facebook group to find specific profiles for other slicer software.

@@upskillinglife Thanks, I will definitely do that.

I'm using Orca now and the latest version has the profile built in for the Kobra 2 Plus.

@@allenbassham2067 Where did you download from? I recently updated this slicer a few days ago and it still doesn't have a ready-made profile for Cobra 2 Plus...

This was printed on an Anycubic Mono X, but I have just put through an order for a new M5 pro so stay tuned to see some videos from that once it arrives!

I dont blame you! Although I see they are just about to release the Kobra 3 so if you have patience you might want to have a look at that once it’s released.

@@upskillinglife thanks for the info!

Hey thanks for your nice comment. Yup there is a bit of work sorting out the files etc… before you end up with the printed model, and then the post processing work to do before you have something ready to be primed. Stay tuned for more on the Odin adventure.

Yup, I am pretty sure that's what it is, but it moves so fast I can't really see. I haven't had any supports fail yet, and I have printed some pretty tall dice towers with it. It could be a z-hop setting, but I haven't had any issues yet, so I haven't looked into it too deeply.

Everything is stock standard from anycubic. Straight out of the box.

Glad to hear it!

Awesome, thanks! I'm glad to have you subscribed!

It shouldn't be scratching the plate as such, especially if it is actually gauging out a scratch mark. Mine sort of sounds like it is scratching the plate, but it isnt actually scratching it. If you are worried about it you might need to try re-leveling your build plate.

I've been using the default profile but am generally using 60mm/s on the first layer and as my general default slow speed (for bridging, etc... and anything I think should be slow) and then upping the speed to 300 mm/s for infill, etc.... I'm still playing around with my speeds, but I haven't been game to run it at max speed yet. I have tried the sports mode a few times, once the print has been running. That increases the speed again, but I've only done this once a good base layer has been achieved.

Hey that's great, thanks! I will give this a try, on a chess set I am working on. I really wanted a speedy job, so a rattle can prime and speed paint finish will work great. Cheers. Great work actually reading the can instructions!!

All good, hope it provided you with some answers.

Cheers bro, yea I was well aware of the flame colour, (first flame I ever painted I googled to check flame colours to check) but I made a choice to go the other way around. After completing this video I saw a picture of the same model, painted yellow core to red tips and am happy with my choice ... visually. Thanks for pointing that out to the other viewers though! 👍

Sweet as, cheers.

In reality I picked up the model after 4 days and still got a little paint on my finger but it was basically dry by then. It is winter where I am at the moment though.

Don't worry too much, there are only three colours from the first version that is repeated in the second version.

Yea, these models look fantastic. I'm looking forward to experimenting with the other 3 models. Thanks for subscribing, and I hope you enjoy the next ones in the series. I hope to have a play with some oil paints and washes as well.

@@upskillinglife oh yeah (I actually just uploaded a video on oil paints - they're my fav). Oil gang ✊️.

Thank you! Cheers!

There are multiple mechanisms that cause the cracking. But I think the thick application and the fast drying time of the paints are the real problem. Maybe some drying retarder might solve the problem? Its really annoying, that people are bashing on AP like that because of that issue. They wanted a faster drying time to prevent reactivation, this leads now to cracking after a heavy application. Work in lighter applications and everything is fine... I wonder how the competitors perform with such a heavy application and pooling in the creases of the cloak. I'm pretty sure they will crack, too...