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Sorry, I don't, but I would go to a Toyota dealer's parts dept and ask them. If they are insanely expensive, then get the part number and shop around. I see folks selling Intake Manifold nuts on EBay.

Thanks for feedback. You just proved that you are pretty handy. I posted this video almost 18 months ago and my wife has been changing those brushes ever since. She tells me that "the fix" is still working and will let me know when she needs some more brushes.

@@doktorfixit 4 hour run last night no issues! I almost cant believe it thanks again Dave!

Hi Larry, I TOTALLY agree with you. I started using WTF's in about 2010 and I bought one from Aircraft Spruce that would not fit several parallel valve cylinders without stretching the attachment holes. I decided to make my own design which worked pretty well but, or course, not at all on angle valve cylinders. So, like you, I made one like in the SB (and the video). But, strangely enough, it did not fit over the bosses on the angle valve cylinder I had before me. In those days I used to talk to specialists at Lycoming it seemed like once or twice a month and I usually found them to be very candid in their answers. I told Lycoming about my problem and the guy said that this angle valve fixture was probably designed back in the 1970's and he often wondered if anybody at Lycoming had ever actually built one. They did sell two Wobble Test Fixtures that required feeler gauges but never sold one for a dial indicator- that is why he wondered out loud if the one in the SB had ever been tested at their factory on different engines. He encouraged me to modify the design as I needed. It has been a long time ago, but I think he told me that this fixture was supposed to work on parallel valve cylinders but there are LOTS of different parallel valve cylinders made by Lycoming and he would be surprised if this fixture worked on all of them. I ended up changing the design on that angle valve fixture 2-3 times and (with the help of a friend) have even made it out of plastic on a 3-D printer and it works great on both angle valve AND parallel valve cylinder engines. Thanks for your input and keeping me honest... ha Dave

Parts needed to replace Secondary Air Injection System on 2006 Sequoia/Tundra 1. Secondary Air Injection Pump: Part No. 17600-0F010 2. Diverter Valve: Part No. 25710-50022 3. Check Valves (right and left): Part No.25720-50011 and Part No. 25720-50020 Note- the metal pipe gaskets for these parts are supplied with them. 4. Intake Manifold Gaskets (2): Part No. 17171-50030 5. Metal Crush Gaskets for Fuel Delivery Pipe Unions (4): Part No. 90430-12026 6. O-ring for Fuel Pressure Regulator: Part No. 90301-07037 7. O-ring for Water Bypass Pipe: Part No.96761-24019 (The O-ring I bought from the local Toyota dealer was hopelessly inadequate. See explanation below. 8. Gaskets for Rear Water Bypass Joint (2): Part No. 16341-50020 9. O-ring and gasket kit for all 8 fuel injectors: I bought an after-market kit from AutoZone for $24. 10. Hose, air injection: Part # 17342-50180 (Note- this hose has a 45 deg bend molded into it. If you are careful, you may not need to replace this hose, but mine was hard and brittle and broke easily. You cannot substitute radiator type hose for this part, because it will kink at the sharp bend required). $27.67 is best price I found on the net. Local Toyota dealers want $49 or more for this. 11. Spindle oil. Needed for lubricating the O-rings and rubber parts on the fuel injectors. You can use gasoline but it evaporates too quickly IMHO. The Toyota manual says NOT to use motor oil or brake fluid, etc. 12 High temp type Black RTV 13. Antifreeze type coolant. You can't avoid spilling some when you remove the rear water bypass joint. 14. While I bought a few O-rings and gaskets from the local Toyota garage, I ended up getting OEM Toyota parts from toyotaonlineparts.com. The alternative to that is to get after-market parts from a company like rockauto.com. I found that if you use all OEM Toyota parts, the entire job will cost about $800. If you use mostly after-market parts, the job will cost about $500, or about $300 less. I have some other material but it is too large to paste here. If you send me an email address, I can send you my written instruction list as well as a chapter from the Toyota Service Manual. Hope this helps, Dave

Hi Gerg, I don't know that Varsol (mineral spirits) will work any better than brake cleaner, but it is worth a try. You might also try something that I get at Wal-Mart called "Miracle Cleaning Eraser." They come in a box of 12- not expensive though. They look like a sponge you would use in the kitchen but are made for getting off baked-on grease from frying pans or ceramic stovetops. I would try it out on a very small spot on the mating surface to make sure it will not score it. I would just use water on the "sponge" initially but you could also try brake cleaner or Varsol next. Also these "sponges" work great on a number of things around the house, BUT do not use them on marble or quartz countertops as they WILL scratch that surface. Hope this helps... Good Luck, Dave

Hi Gerg, I spoke to a good friend who is an aircraft mechanic (like me) and he suggested you might try MEK. This is difficult to find in some locales. Our local Home Depot sells something called "MEK substitute" which is IMHO not what you want.

@@doktorfixit Thank you so much for taking the time to reply and the video series in general. my brother is an aircraft mechanic so I'll talk to him about sourcing some. Cheers

@@doktorfixit Will do, thank you for taking the time to respond and for posting the video. Cheers

Many thanks for the kind words. Fixin' is better than replacin' any day...

Hi Chris, Yes, I can think of at least three ways they could have made that side brush better to change out. The cynical view is that they wanted to sell more modules, not just replacement brushes.

Thanks, Marty, for the kind words. I am truly glad you did that with a hand drill. I probably over-engineer things on occasion.

Tried to hot melt did not work

Many thanks for the kind words...

Thank you for the kind comment.

Many thanks for the kind words. I could not agree more. They are complex airplanes and too many mechanics treat them like a Cessna 172.

Great video by the way! Thank you for doing it.

Yes, you can email me at dave520@prodigy.net. I must tell you that there is possibly as much as a 4-6 week lag time. I was in the middle of moving my machine shop to another location when I was hospitalized with complications of Covid. It not only set back the move, but me as well. I have all my machines up and running but my stamina is coming back slowly. FYI- the price of the bungee tool is $225 plus $14 S&H. The Alden wrench is not an absolute necessity but the tool works so much better with it than with an open end wrench. We sell it for $18 and no S&H if bought with the bungee tool. You won't find it this cheap elsewhere. As you might guess, these tools are fairly labor intensive to make. I am retired. I make them because they are fun to fabricate. I could never make a living doing this.

I am pretty sure this repair applies to the 2002-2009 Lexus GX470. I would say you could always call the Lexus garage and ask them where the smog pump is located on your year model Lexus, but when my smog pump CEL code came on, one Toyota dealer in my city told me there were 2 smog pumps in my SUV and they were in the right fender well. In their defense, that is where some smog pumps ARE located, but not in my 2006 Sequoia. Then I remembered, "Hey wait a minute, I have the shop manual for my vehicle." Duh. The location was in that manual. Although they do not give you a specific repair for replacing the smog pump, they make it part of the engine rebuild- you just have to pick out what you need. When I get a new vehicle I usually buy the official shop repair manual. (The after-market manuals are often crap) For many years now you can obtain the digital version of these OEM manuals for cheap. I bought mine for $10 from some outfit in Canada (versus $270 for the paper version from Toyota). I am not sure they still exist (I got it in 2006). But I think they are still available online from other sources. It certainly is handy to have your repair manual on a thumb drive or on your cloud drive, etc. I can plug my thumb drive into my iPad and use it when working on something in the garage. Good luck...

I don't consider myself an expert in these error codes. However, I think there are a couple of possibilities: the sensor is bad, or the ECM (engine control module, that is the computer) is bad. It is VERY unlikely that the part you installed is bad. The quick and dirty thing I would do first would be to hit the reset button on your OBD2 code reader a couple of times and see if that makes the CEL light go out. I have heard of that working after a repair where the light stays on. Next, I would talk to your mechanic and see what he suggests. IF you decide to take off the intake manifold again, then I would definitely replace all the parts in the SAI system incl the smog pump, both check valves, and the diverter valve, etc. I have never had good luck trying to "pick the bad part" in a system where all the other parts are inter-connected. Something caused this valve you replaced to go bad. It's like dominos, in my opinion.

@@doktorfixit thank you.

Unfortunately, that is about the going price at the repair shops- many of the Toyota dealers will charge $3,000 or more. My local Toyota garage wanted $3300. That is what prompted me to do it myself. I did find one place that wanted $2200 but he said that he could not give me a "fixed-rate" because he did not know what he would find when he got into the engine. I strongly suspect you are happy with your Sequoia and don't see any reason to sell it. The new ones are insanely expensive. With the low mileage that you have on that vehicle, it will probably last you a long time. Don't fret over the $2700. You did the best thing with the information that you had at the time. Everything is 20/20 in the rearview mirror.

Hose, air injection: Part # 17342-50180 (Note- this hose has a 45 deg bend molded into it. If you are careful, you may not need to replace this hose, but mine was hard and brittle and broke easily. You cannot substitute radiator type hose for this part, because it will kink at the sharp bend required). $27.67 is best price I found on the net. Local Toyota dealers want $49 or more for this. There is a complete list of part numbers just below the video in Chapter 1.where is says "Show More..."

Many thanks for the kind words.

Hi Colton, Yes, you hit upon something I gleaned back in 2016 when my smog pump failed. When I took it to the Toyota dealer I was told that my Sequoia missed the recall by a couple of months and they wanted $3300 for the repair- which seemed high. At the time, I knew very little about SAI pumps, so I took the vehicle to 3 different independent repair shops. ALL 3 of them gave some excuse for not wanting to do the repair. An older mechanic I had known for years was candid enough to tell me almost exactly what you found. He could not find out how to replace the pump in his professional online repair service. He was puzzled but offered the explanation that most of these pumps were likely being replaced by Toyota under the recall and very few non-dealer shops had actually done one. An aside- I am basically an aircraft mechanic (A&P/IA) who works on cars if I must- or if there is significant money to be saved. In September 2016, there were no RUclips videos on this subject so I decided to do the repair myself and make a video of it. I suspected that I was just the tip of the iceberg and there were going to be a lot more folks like me who were going to need this repair and Toyota was not going to offer any financial help. I researched the situation in my Sequoia Repair Manual. I could not find a specific section on the SAI pump repair, but by putting the pieces together I was able to visualize what needed to be done. First, I made a sequential item-by-item repair plan. (Naturally, this was amended somewhat as the actual repair ensued). Likewise, I made a list of parts needed. And finally, a list of the tools I would need. Many thanks for the kind words. I am really glad that the videos were helpful to you in your job.

Toyota says that the P2445 Code can be caused by one of the following: Air pump fuse; vacuum hose broken, cracked, leaking, or disconnected; faulty pressure sensor,; air pump harness open or shorted; air pump circuit making a poor connection; Pressure sensor harness open or shorted; or the pressure sensor circuit making a poor electrical connection. From what I have gleaned in my research on this code continuing to display after you have replaced essentially the entire SAI system, is a broken or disconnected vacuum line or electric connector is the culprit. It is less likely to be a faulty pressure sensor, but more likely to have a poor or broken electrical connector. As much as I don’t want to recommend inspecting these parts, I think you are going to have to check all the vacuum lines and electrical connectors involved in the repair, but the vacuum lines to the ASV or air switching valve. I don’t have any good photos or videos to show you what I am talking about. On a related topic, I spoke to a mechanic at a private Toyota garage a couple of years ago when I was getting some intermittent error codes that would last a day or two and then disappear. He told me that in my 2006 Sequoia that not only are the parts getting old, but the sensors are too. So, sometimes when you hit a bump or it is raining very hard, one of these sensors decides to report a condition that is not really happening- thus it resets itself within a day or two as if nothing happened. But sometimes the sensor just goes bad and continues to display the error code. Argh. I wish I could be of more help. Good luck on this. Dave

@@doktorfixit thank you very much really helpful. I will check all the sensors and hoses as well. But i think all the air hose are in good condition but I will recheck all again. And the connectors & fuses & relays I really appreciate it for getting back to me. Like your videos man thanks

@@doktorfixit one more thing where is the air pump fuse located

@@djlouis2150 If memory serves, it is in the fuse box in the engine compartment just behind the battery.

@@doktorfixit do you know what number is the relay

Hi Matthew, sorry it took me so long to get back to you. Somebody backed into my Sequoia in a parking lot and it was in the body shop. I wanted to get it back and see if I could locate it and possibly take a photo. I got skunked. I could not find it in either the Toyota Repair Manual or in the engine compartment. I am about 98% certain that I did not come across it when either accessing or replacing the SAI pump.

149K at time of repair in Nov 2016. Although I was just under the 150K mile limit for a warranty repair, I missed it because my SUV was a 2006. After 2-3 disappointing conversations with Toyota, they turned me down. They did not take into account that this was about my 4th or 5th Toyota. Although I have loved Toyotas (incl a 1988 Land Cruiser- the older style "macho" vehicle) I think that love affair has come to an end. I read that Toyota is stopping production (in the US) of both the Sequoia and the Land Cruiser. If I could find a nice 2012 Sequoia, I would buy it in a heartbeat.

I'm looking for a first gen tundra. Your video makes me wonder if it would be wise to avoid something that old considering how hard & brittle you found o-rings, hoses, & connectors to be. I'm really considering avoiding the 05 & 06's to avoid the SAI headaches. That said..that makes the newest one available to me would be the 04 (I think the 04's didn't have SAI) which you would figure would be even more vulnerable to age problems. Do you have any advice regarding my concerns? Do you think if I found something with lower mileage, say under 100,000, would that make things less brittle? In your opinion is there any age limit on a vehicle that would tell you to avoid a vehicle that old? Or is it a matter of looking at oil seals for leaks, or boots, & rubber bushings for dry rot? Any advice at all would be appreciated. Thank you!

@@8683roy Roy, you pose a tough one. There are a bazillion factors. In the old days, cars were simpler and cheaper. Now they are often needlessly complex and expensive. I am going to give you the quick and dirty answer for ME. If I was looking for a good used Tundra, I would try to get the newest used vehicle I could afford. The older you get, the more issues you will face. In the last year or two I have worked on a 2012 Tacoma and a Tundra and they were both in pretty good shape and I felt like they both had a lot of "Goody" left in them. Obviously, try to get one that has had some reasonably good care.

@@doktorfixit David, Great, great response!!! A better one than I thought that I would have ever received because I too am old enough to have experienced the pleasure of owning, maintaining, & repairing vehicles from a much, much simpler era & I really appreciate & value information from someone who possess more knowledge than myself. How I would love to sit down to a cup of coffee with you and try to absorb the knowledge from your brain. I like to think of myself as organized & having a structured approach when I work on vehicles but you take it to the next level on me & I can only strive to be as professional & as thorough as you are...as I can tell from your fantastic instructional. I couldn’t believe some of the videos I’ve seen on RUclips where the guy just tore the intake manifold off of the engine without worrying about any garbage falling into the intake ports & then just using the old intake manifold gaskets & just using the impact driver to re-tighten the bolts without even using a torque wrench...what a joke. I really appreciate your advice when you suggest I get the newest Tundra I can find & afford; but I could make a list of the reasons why I love the 1st gen Tundras over any truck that I could possibly buy today but that list would be too long in an already too long response. So what I would like to do is see if you would be willing to please go a little bit further out on the limb & tell me if you would be afraid to buy a 2004 Tundra or any other 1st gen Tundra for that matter because as far as I’m concerned it’s the only Tundra or truck nowadays worth owning. Nothing I would hold you to, I just want your honest opinion. I know there are an infinite number of variables involved, but if you wanted a 1st gen Tundra & it checked all of the boxes that you required it to check...would you be afraid to buy it? Thanks, Roy

@@8683roy Roy, sorry about taking so long to reply. Your answer is about as nice as anything has ever said to me. Thanks for the kind words. In truth, if I did my homework (as much as I could) I would not be afraid of getting a 2004 Tundra. There is almost nothing that can't be fixed and even if you rebuild the engine, the transmission, and the rear end, etc, it would still be much cheaper than buying anything of recent vintage. I have probably said it somewhere in the videos that I feel cheated if I don't get 20 yrs out of a vehicle. My wife has a 22 yr old Chevy Blazer that runs great. I have never let the Chevy house touch it. My 2006 Sequoia is 15 yrs old and going pretty good. I recently had to replace the McPherson struts on the front end. I expect that kind of repair and just think of it as more new parts...ha. Yep, would love to have a cup of coffee with you sometime... Dave

Hopefully this will be the only time you ever have to remove the intake manifold. And you were right to give it some thought about what else you might do while you were there. I had a long talk with a fellow at a starter-alternator shop and he advised me not to replace the starter while I was there. He said in his vehicle, usually the starter and the alternator will outlive the owner. Plus the fact that they are fairly expensive. As you will note in the video, I do recommend that you replace the intake manifold gaskets as they are inexpensive and do sometimes cause a problem. Good luck with your repair. And thanks for watching.

@@doktorfixit awesome. Thanks for the quick reply. So I should just switch out the pump ? And manifold gasket? Nothing else. ?

@@hardog22 I may have misunderstood you. Personally, I think if you are there, you should replace the entire SAI system, i.e., the pump, the check valves, and the diverter valve, with their associated hardware. I would not try to cherry-pick. And unless you think the curved hose from the diverter valve is supple, I would replace it too. Mine was hard as a brick and crumbled when I tried to remove it. And if you do, get the OEM Toyota hose, not a piece of radiator hose from Autozone. The tight bend you try to make with it will kink and be worthless. The Toyota hose is more expensive but it is specially made to maintain that curve. And you should plan on replacing an item or two that break in the disassembly process. I had to replace a fuel injector, at least one electrical connector, and the O-rings to the water bypass pipe. And I still shaved a couple of thousand bucks off what the Toyota garage wanted for this repair.

@@doktorfixit very helpful. Thankyou. I had also seen you replaced O rings on injectors. I shouldn’t have to do this ?

@@hardog22 I am more of an aircraft mechanic than an auto mechanic. It is penny-wise and pound-foolish not to replace small inexpensive parts that would take a lot of effort to go back to at some future time. Those O-rings and grommets are cheap and easy. A couple of times I mention in the video not to disturb something because then you won't have to replace the O-ring. But once you take something apart and there is an O-ring involved, go ahead and replace it. In this regard, the repair is a little bit like plumbing repair. If you take something apart, be aware that it might leak when you re-assemble it- especially if you leave an old O-ring or seal in place that has taken a "set" or has a groove in it. I know it sounds like I am being a stickler about those things, but so many things that I do right nowadays, I did wrong before I learned the hard way.

Look at Part 3 of this series to make sure we are talking about the same thing. Go to 3:25 min in the video. The torque value I give for those bolts is 29 ft-lbs. Let me know if you need anything else, and thanks for watching.

Metal Crush Gaskets for Fuel Delivery Pipe Unions (4): Part No. 90430-12026. Let me know if there is anything else. I am going to try to put the parts list in the introduction comments. It is normally in the link just below the video, but my website server crashed and the web host says it may be 24 hours before they get it back online...Dave

Hi Troy, thanks for the kind words. About once a year I take my Sequoia to a DIY car wash and spray Gunk Engine Cleaner on it and then rinse it off with hot water. Years ago a friend told me about a product called Silk Shine Dressing. I think the guys who display "show cars" put it on the black plastic and hoses to make them shiny. I am more of an airplane mechanic and we normally spray down an engine with Varsol/mineral spirits before we work on it. It cleans off all the grease/oil and makes it much easier to see problems. It is also just much nicer to work on a clean engine. Dave

@@doktorfixit I will have to start doing this asap. I too am a former aircraft mechanic. :) I spent 4 years on B1B in the AF, then a couple at DFW as a contractor on transports. Thanks again for taking the time to create such a professional and complete how to video. I took my time, mostly cleaning, but was able to finish in about 4 hours.

I hear you. How many of us ask the new car salesman where is the starter located? It is ALSO under the Intake Manifold? You gotta be kidding me. You mean it will probably cost me (at the Toyota garage) $2K to replace the starter and even more for the SAI pump? Of course, in 2006 I had not heard of that part nor realized it could go bad and Toyota would not cover it in the warranty- I missed it by a couple of months...Most of us love our Sequoias, but the repairs get costly as the rascals start to age. The power window motor in the driver's side door went out 2 months ago. The OEM motor from Toyota is $450 and the Master controller switch on the armrest is $500. To have Toyota do the work, it would mean breaking into my 401(k). ha. Ergo, I got a Dorman motor and it worked pretty good- for 2 months and stopped dead. I spent this last Saturday trouble-shooting and then confirming that it was the motor and not the switch. Have you priced a new Sequoia lately? That is why I am still working on this 2006...Take good care of that Buick, Jason. Have a great day...

Wow. That sounds like a great "quick fix." I would wait a week or so before taking the valve back for a refund. Those codes can take a while to re-appear. But it sounds like you have cheated the devil- and the Toyota repair shop.

Sorry, it took me so long to answer. Just didn't see the email. Yes, I have sold these in the past. I don't advertise so it is all word of mouth. I can make you one for $150 plus $10 S&H. That would include the centering device, the split gage, and the dial indicator. And it might take me as long as a week to get it out. I am involved in a project at the moment which is taking a lot of my time. If you are interested, email me at dave520@prodigy.net