- Видео 22
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erteensool
Добавлен 17 дек 2006
Color carbon print overview #2
This video shows one of my color carbon prints (not the best one although). Development, wet and dry relief.
Просмотров: 889
Видео
Color carbon print overview #1
Просмотров 1,3 тыс.5 лет назад
This is short video where I display one of my carbon prints in wet and dry state. Author of the photos on the print is mr Stavros Pippos - photographer from Australia.
Color carbon print after 4 layers applied
Просмотров 4475 лет назад
Color carbon print after 4 layers applied
Color carbon print after CMY layers applied
Просмотров 2135 лет назад
Color carbon print after CMY layers applied
Wet color carbon calibration table
Просмотров 2765 лет назад
This is how you find out perfect balance between layers in color carbon transfer printing
Carbon print: Pouring glop / Углеродная печать: Полив эмульсии
Просмотров 1,9 тыс.10 лет назад
Фрагмент будущего ролика о углеродной печати в деталях. Делаю партию пигментной бумаги для моего мастре-класса в Питере. (фокус постоянно плавает - x-pro1 не лучшая камера чтобы снимать видео)
Цветной отпечаток в технике переноса пигментированного желатина (color carbon)
Просмотров 2,1 тыс.11 лет назад
Это видео рассказывает о том, как происходит цветная печать с помощью процесса переноса пигментированного желатина (color carbon transfer process). Видео состоит из девяти частей: части 1-6 показывают, на примере желтого слоя, как выполняется сенсибилизация эмульсии, регистрация негатива, экспозиция, перенос в холодной воде и обработка изображения в теплой воде. Части 7-9 показывают регистрацию...
Making color carbon print (second edition)
Просмотров 21 тыс.11 лет назад
This video demonstrates process of making color print using pigmented gelatin transfer process (color carbon). Video consists of 9 parts. Parts 1-6 shows sensibilization, negative registration, exposure, mating of tissue and final support, developing and warm water and final wash for yellow layer (same things that you do in monochrome carbon printing), parts 7-9 show registration and warm water...
This is how relief of dry color carbon print looks like.
Просмотров 1,5 тыс.11 лет назад
This video demonstrates how relief of dry carbon print is looks like. While not nearly as prominent as wet print relief, dry print still shows clearly visible relief in diffused light.
Making color carbon print
Просмотров 23 тыс.11 лет назад
This video demonstrates process of making color print using pigmented gelatin transfer process (color carbon).
Шторм на побережье Херсонесского полуострова
Просмотров 11214 лет назад
Шторм на побережье Херсонесского полуострова
Шторм на побережье Херсонесского полуострова
Просмотров 12614 лет назад
Шторм на побережье Херсонесского полуострова
Absolutely beautiful! I’m just starting to learn carbon printing, baby steps so far. It seems from the video that your registration pins appear to be placed symmetrically on your board I was wondering could that lead to accidentally placing one of the colours in the wrong orientation? (Sorry, it’s the engineer in me :) ) Thanks 🙏
Здесь есть живые люди или канал РИП!?)
Смотря что вас интересует.
Hello! Thank you for sharing! Very nice workflow! I was wondering i experience some trouble when i apply the gloss gelatin layer, i use a pretty thick layer of dichromate and gelatine (around 4 or 5mm in the idea to have relief in my final print). But each time everything goes wrong when i develop it. My sequence is this one: Exposing my tissue, soak it for at least 20 minuts at 25°. Presoak my support in the same condition. Mate them for 30 minutes and the peel it off at 50°. In general all my gelatin is washed away... Could you help me on this one? Thanks :)
Your problem is too long soak time. Gelatin became saturated and does’nt stick to support. Reduce soak time to 2 minutes or so
@@sergeylemeshencko1765 Even if my gelatin layer is 4 or 5 cm thick? (I'll try that anyway :) )
🧡
Interesting demonstration. How do you correct color shift with your method?
Because it is CMYK image, the color shift is corrected by adding or reducing exposure in C or M channel with fixed Y exposure. Balance charts help you to understand how much exposure change you need. Look on second chart in top row - it is magenta-cyan balance over constant yellow density. Diagonal on this chart should visually separate green/red colours on table. If exposure on magenta or cyan is off, you'll get more red or more green on one of the diagonal sides. I have detailed instruction how to do this, but unfortunately it is in Russian - @t (you can give google translate a try)
@@erteensool Thanks for your reply, I'd be interested in your russian instructions, would you have a link? Thanks.
how do you make the tissues?
Same recipe as for monochrome color carbon process. Pigments are standard CMY (any watercolour or artistic brand).
Hi there, I experience problems trying to stick the carbon transfer to the final print, the DAS sensitized sheets I use seem to work however when I transfer the final result to in my case RC paper, albumen coated PET or cotton paper it doesnt seem to stick. I waited for around 5 mins before putting the print in a 40C bath. might that be too short? Or maybe you have recommendations for the final paper treatment?
Hi. How long you keep pigmented tissue in cold water before transfer? If it won't stick to support, you may need to reduce soaking time.
Have carbon print with black inks.
Fantastic
А такого же ролика, но на русском нет? Очень хочется понять о чем разговор? Общее понял, а вот нюансы нет
На русский бы всё это перевести....
ruclips.net/video/FgpGUUYnuEg/видео.html
Great info, thank you very much! I wonder who can dislike this type of tutorials?!
I'm sorry the prints are not upto your normal high standards, but useful to see the problems of the magenta bleed, and the slightly off registration. Also very interesting that you believe the choice of gelatin bloom was the cause of the uneven surface. It is very interesting to see what can go wrong. Thank you very much for sharing.
Thank you for comment. Low bloom number gelatine is very easy to damage by agitating too much in the water bath - it became pitted and cracked. In wet state cracks are not obvious but became very visible as print dryes.
That’s amazing, what kind of pigment do you use?
Thank you. For this print I've used Schminke artistic pigments - standard CMY trio of PR122, PY154, PB15:3 and Sennelier 's black for fresco.
@@erteensool thank you
interesting looking forward to see the result
Thanks for sharing. Suggestion; I cant read that fast so please leave graphics on longer.
I would like to know more about color separation negatives. My experience is with three color carbon, making separation negatives from red, green and blue to get the cyan, magenta and yellow respective negatives. How do you make them: separating the four channels of a CMYK file and then inverting each of them, or making like me and adding a fourth black negative with a relative lower density?
I first do calibration for each colored tissue (CMYK) to get calibration curves. When I make CMYK separation in Photoshop using neutral profile (not the default one) and apply calibration curves to each channel. www.flickr.com/photos/greywind/9202155301/in/photolist-f2asb2-f2as3B-f2pJf1
Thank you, @@sergeylemeshencko1765. It is a quick, short and clear answer, even documented with photographs!, very helpful , thank you again. I will let you know if I get any success.
18-й год... ролик судя по всему так и не увидел свет
Да и честно говоря не видно энтузиазма в сообществе) Когда-нибудь снова руки до карбона дойдут и сделаю.
а Вы забросили этот процесс? я бы как раз по нему хотел поговорить
Не то, чтобы забросил, но последний раз печатал в 15том году. Лаборатория на месте, просто не до печати стало. Так что можете поспрашивать.
i don't understand this shyt at all. but everyone makes it look so easy
Basically, Carbon printing is based on the fact that the sensitized gelatin is less soluble when exposed to light. At the correct temperature, the unexposed emulsion will dissolve leaving the exposed portion behind. I’d suggest doing monochrome prints first, to get the technique down.
My ammonium dichromate says 99.5% how do I dilute this to make 8% to add to the water??? An answer would be much appreciated, thanks!
Use simple arithmetics: if you have 99.5% solution, you need to dilute it 1:12 to get ~8%
Great video! What pigments do you use for the CMY layers? Thanks!
На 20.30 титры вообще не читаемые (белые буквы на белом фоне)
Там в основном о том, что объем виден), да фраза до конца видео не изменяется. А фон меняется)
Isopropyl alcohol will react with the dichromate if it does not evaporate right away, possibly ruining the print. I suggest using (not nail polish removing grade) acetone instead.
Onur, that is not correct, I use Isopropyl alcohol for all of my carbon printing as do most leading carbon printers. Yes acetone can be used but Isopropyl alcohol works just as well.
Thank you Sergey for you kindness. Another question. 1 Do you develop each color layer directly to the final support? According to the video, you build up the YMCK layer one by one on the final support from yhe tissues and no temporary support was used, right? 2 Do you give ach color layer same exposure time? I used to do gum print and it took different exposure time for each color. I am really curious of the color carbin and you are giving me great inspiration. Thank you again.
dustytemple 1 Yes, I mostly use continuous transfer of layers on top of each over on same support. This is simplest way, but if you have experience with double transfer, you can print each layer on it's own support, then transfer them to final support (where is another color carbon video on youtuble - search for "ultrastable color" - in this video Tod Gangler shows multiple transfer technique). 2 No, you need to find correct exposure times to match CMY densities for each layer. Basically you need to print scale tables for each color, scan them, convert to CMYK is PS, measure density in corresponding channel and this gives you exposure times. www.flickr.com/photos/greywind/9202155301
Sergey Lemeshencko Thank you so much, Sergey. It was you, Greywind in the forum! Amazing worker!with respectJongin
park jongin yep, greywind is my user name on APUG and bostic&sullivan
@@sergeylemeshencko1765
Amazing and very informative video! You didn't do double tranfer and did just single transfer. Does the gelatin of each previous layers have any harm? As I understand, the gelatin is weak to water and would absorb water even after it is dried. So if the magenta layer is exposed and mated with the yellow layer, I am afraid the yellow layer would swell and peel off from the support. As as monochrome-only printer, I want to hear your experience about this.
park jongin Nothing stops you from transferring all 4 layers to new support - it will work in same way as with single layer. Don't forget, that gelatin become insoluble after treating with bichromate - so it will absorb less water, than soluble gelatin in exposed tissue. So no correction time for cold water transfer is needed. Btw, I sometimes make multiple transfers of same color - in case if I need more density or to hide some defects. Multilayer carbon printing offers huge possibilities - you can easy double relief or intensify shadows without affecting highlights with making double print frome same negative.
Dude, you really should be wearing gloves. Ammonia DiChromate is a moderately strong carcinogen!
Great video,one of the best I have found, especially regarding the registration issue. I have only one request: a video about the UV device that you made. Congratulions Thanks
Luiz Campos Pereira my "UV device" is made from 2 separate parts: vacuum frame - polywood box, air compressor from freezer and rubber border, glass plate on box top. The other part - UV light, is made from standard exterrior light where halogen lamp was replaced with lamp from production printing frame.
Это ахуительно! но автор извращенец.
@Piotr Lesniak - you can use any final and tissue supports combination: hardened by UV light gelatin in tissue will stick only if heavy overexposed (so it became hardened all way deep to it support)
Cool! do you size Yupo final support with gelatin? I use microporous inkjet paper as a final and Yupo for tissue. If both - temporary and final are of Yupo is there any danger that a pigmented gelatin will rather stay stuck to tissue instead being transferred to final? After matting and warm development? Do you harden the transferred layer with before transferring next color?
Bravo! Looks amazing!
Congrat!!!! Exelent!!!!
The color carbon prints are so interesting. Sometime I'll have to get into making them. I like the embossed look of them as well.
This was truly a great video, I've done a basic carbon print and often thought that the registration would be too hard to manage, Thank you for taking the time to show us this!! One question, do you worry about the dicromate leaching off the tissue into the water and onto your hands when you separate them?
Hi. No. I use 4 diffirent negatives: one for each color: yellow, magenta, cyan and black. To make them I convert original RGB image to CMYK in photoshop. Then I take each channel of CMYK image and save it as separate grayscale tiff image, apply calibration curve to it, and then those graysale tiffs are printed out on image setter.
Is the exposure time different for each color layer?
Hi again, did you use the same negative for all 4 colors?
I'm glad that you found this video useful :) I have plans to make videos about color calibration, negative preparation and color tissue manufaturing. I can't give exact date, but I think that I will finish whole cycle of videos in next year. Stay tuned.
в таких ветряках мегаваты
сколько в нём киловатт интересно?
Слабенький штормик.Я снимал шторм в 2007 году в августе,так вода размывалась аж в посадке!
Красота...