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See you next time. Will check in another 6 years if something new got released 😅

It’s bad practice to tin the ends. When you screw them into the terminals everything will be fine for the moment but after a couple months they will come lose. You better use nothing or ferrules.

Im also encountering issues with tightnening my M5 screws after I drilled and tapped my gantry railways. I believe its due to the tap being worn down so I bought a new tap set and will make a few more tapping passes to further clear the threads for the screws. With one bolt I tried to screw it with the drill really fast and even if it didnt snap, its threads got torn and useless. Also, I got some severe warping from welding, like almost 2mm sag in the middle compared to the ends over the 1m length of the gantry, its gonna be a real nightmare getting rig of that...

I found this while looking for fabricated gantry examples - very nice! Any opinions on mig welding something like this instead of tig? I'd guess not that different if only short beads are done.

is it normal that green LED flashes, if only DC+ and DC- is connected to the servo?

You don't have a link to where you got the wires ? Also what are those green connections from ?

I want to buy the same motors, i ll use DDCS v4.1 , can you tell me where and how you connect the encoders ?

I work, assembled machines with the same structure, only they have, a tank between the rails. My problem has been aligning the rails on each side, to ensure parallelism and squareness. The rails are located at a distance of 3 meters from each other. Do you know any technical and effective alignment system. Well, I do it empirically with a tensioned steel wire.

Nice to see a machine made with steel weldments instead of aluminum extrusions.

Super tough cnc

I had watched this on fast forward a few months ago, but this time I sat through all of the audio, and it was incredibly insightful. Using the epoxy float to square and level the rails independent of any welding warping is genius. The board that goes on the table is called the “spoil board” I know you don’t like wood. Sometimes it is made out of the pink rigid insulation instead, which is more tolerant of moisture without warping. It is assumed that some of your cuts will penetrate your work piece and start tearing up your table. Another alternative is to paint it with an oil based paint, which makes it fairly waterproof. However before you do that flatten it with the mill and a fly cutter. It does not matter how flat the wood is to the floor or to level as long as it is flat to the gantry. Usually there are 2 spoil boards he bottom one sets flatness, and maybe has channels for the vacuum work holding. The top spoil board gets replaced frequently, and maybe has lots of intentional holes and channels to aid in vacuum work holding.

Дякую!

This looks really cool. Its a shame you don't record the entire build, id watch it.

You are a little bit wrong about the interface.. the position and alarm lines are outputs from the servo. (Notice the optocouplers in the picture are mirrored) They can pull a line to gnd, if this line is connected to a pullup resistor. (Do not connect directly positive voltage without a risistor to it.. it will be like a short) The error line will connent the signal to gnd if there’s an error, the position line is connected to gnd while the servo is driving to its position.

hey welches controller board & welche steuerungssoftware hast du verwendet?

if i look at the wiring at the end you conect pul+ DIR+ and ENA+ of the same wire? in the maniul it tels my Remark： (1) t1: ENA must be ahead of DIR by at least 5μ s. Usually, ENA+ and ENA- are NC (not connected). (2) t2: DIR must be ahead of PUL active edge by 6μ s to ensure correct direction; (3) t3: Pulse width not less than 2.5μ s; (4) t4: Low level width not less than 2.5μ s. but i dont now how to set it up corectly only way i can think of is for ENA+ to be powerd when i pouwer the machine

Would love to see the rest

Maschine work? take more video

You have 7 lead cable. What happened to other 3 leads?

thnx man started mine ,was strugling with the leveling ...you helped me alot

How did you handle the fact that steel is bending when beeing welded / exposed to heat..? Your structure mus have warped slightly during the welding, how did you deal with this issue?

nice video!! I bought the same motors.... can you explain how you install them and setup the software..

That is a very nice machine. Any tips for things that you would avoid doing if you did it again?

I want to add to this video information that is missing. First you must run 24v (no less) to the driver side for step/pulse. Anything less they will not rotate. For optimal performance the servos like 48v 20 amp supplies. For the dip switches if you plan to machine with them you need no less than 40,000 steps, preferably 51,200 to optimize torque or you will not have enough torque and trigger missed steps. For Hertz (pulse frequency) control settings these are rated at 250,000hz so you need a setting equivalent or higher. I used 400,000 in my control and anything less they will barely rotate. Anyone who wants to program theirs via rs232 I have the JMC software application to access the internal settings and I am willing to share with you just ask. As far as those connectors go they are junk and unreliable. Even if you solder connections they can come loose. There is a fix. Take some hot glue and glue the wires to the connector which will also make it water proof and prevent them from pulling out from vibration or movement.

Hello, great series up to now. What's happened with the build - are you still going to be uploading the rest of this?

Hi but your nice black paint job. Just funnin with you from your prior video. Thank you for the share, hoping you will be back. Lance & Patrick.

We are new here, we love our precision machinery and we are happy to be here at your channel and hope to get to see this entire build over time. Belt drives are fine, direct drives are fine. Your gantry bridge is really well built, liking the framing of it. Your work is looking really nice. Thank you for sharing Lance & Patrick.

Cool project, looks expensive though. What's the cost so far?

Hi there. What going on with your project?

Great build dude! Gantry looks sturdy enough. a bit worried about the Z plates tho. any update? would be great to see some tolerance tests and performance in a vid

Very nice build I’m in the middle of a 4x6 cnc router table right now thanks for sharing

Wow amazing project! I am looking to make one myself, because I cannot afford a ready one. Would you be willing to share your CAD file so that your audience may also experiment? Keep up the great work!

what motor controller are you using? I have to buy one...

Welche Kabel hast Du verwendet?

Good job!! where did you got these pullies? this is the biggest gantry I have seen... oh my god.. .it's huge..

thanks god!!! finally I found someone explaning how to build with this JMC motors... I bought 3 of them but I don't know how to put all together... :S

your cables is very vary thick!!!!