Видео

@@googleprivacy2829 they do sound really good 👍

@@perrykomick9478 I had to break the whole thing down into roughly 2 hour sessions during winter with no power tools. I had to unpack my tools and pack them back up before leaving each time because I couldn’t leave them outside. It goes a lot faster if you can dedicate an entire day or two, but I didn’t have that option.

That tunnel was the forerunner of the longer tunnel used in the B-36. It's shown in the '55-`56 film Strategic Air Command starring the great Jimmy Stewart. At one point he's filmed traveling through the tunnel to get to the aft section of the plane. It's timeless footage. If you've never seen that film you NEED to if you're any kind of an aircraft buff. Cheers!

Everything shakes in a B29 in flight and I was crawling through openings the size of a trash can. Make a video in a flying B29 with stable camera work at all times, and I’ll respect your criticism.

@@johng448 I appreciate that. Thank you. The work was hard, but it was absolutely worth it. I love this car-she bought it for $1200 US, and she still drives it. I thought it would be scrap within 6 months-and that was at 7 years ago

@@williammcleod7585 That engine Mada AJ if I remember was designed by Porshe and Ford brought the design and changed some stuff on the heads. They never really tended to give any bad internal mechanical issue. Like maybe a chain tensioner here and there. They also have a bit of a convoluted cooling system . But as long as you can keep oil in them as fast as they leak they tend to keep running.

Ha 🤣🤣🤣 not literally, but it’s a major pain in the ass for sure!

Thank you for your input! I don’t work on Fords often, so hearing from someone who’s done the job with variations is great 👍

Google it or call a trusted mechanic for a quote. Everything I have found so far indicates that it’s a $1,000-$1,200 job if you have to pay someone to do it. That’s why I posted this video-the parts are cheap, but the job is big. You need to decide whether you’re capable of doing this job yourself.

The guides and chain were okay, so I left them alone. Same with the cam and crank sensors-although I pulled them out of the timing cover to clean it. There was no rattle when I started the engine cold, and no rattle when I revved it under any circumstances, so I didn’t expect a problem with the timing chain or guides. When I got the cover off, I made sure that the timing chain guides were intact (no chunks or pieces missing), and that there was no slack in the chain. My friend was on a very tight budget, so I only replaced what was absolutely necessary. If you decide you want to replace the chain and tensioner/guides, you should research further. Pulling the timing cover is the hard part.

I should explain I had to unpack and repack my tools each time I worked on it, and I did it during me free time while not working. I also had kids asking me questions as I worked haha

@@williammcleod7585 @ did the gasket job!! But the oil pan still leaks!!

Did you replace the pan gasket? If so, did you take a wire wheel to the gasket surfaces to clean them?

@@williammcleod7585 @ fix it! It was the oil pan was cracked!! Thanks!

Yup. I’ll try to remember to take a picture next time I’m there

@@williammcleod7585 wow thats great. Currently, i've taken everything apart and have the cover off. Will start putting it back together again tomorrow. Am considering dressing the rubber gaskets in a light coat of rtv, besides using the rtv on the usual spots

photos.app.goo.gl/xmpshqeUFVukZVuYA here’s the last picture I took a couple of weeks ago. I drove it 3 days ago, and no trouble. The timing cover gasket was the problem. The gasket leaks oil, and it goes down the “front” end of the engine and drips onto the exhaust, which is hot and makes the oil burn

I was wondering the same thing. I'm not sure why you would need to.

@@borgdrone47 I don't think so. I'm gonna do this soon on mine so I'll let you know haha

I’ve heard of people doing it without removing the pan, but it’s not much extra work to do it-and I feel like it’s worth it to make sure everything seals properly. With the pan on, there is upward pressure on the timing cover when you seal it. With it off, the timing cover can settle where it wants to go.

@@williammcleod7585 not much work? You have to remove the exhaust bolts lol

It’s true, removing the exhaust bolts can be a pain. I had to replace two of them. But I was already taking all the other stuff out-it felt like cheap insurance. I didn’t want to have to dive back into it.

Honestly, I didn’t think about doing it. I would imagine it probably is okay as long as you don’t lay it on too thick and let the permatex set up before starting it-which you have to do anyway because reassembly takes so long. I say check the forums. I don’t have a lot of experience with Ford and it’s my friend’s car, so I wanted to do it by the book.

@williammcleod7585 Thanks a lot for your input. I add permatex, so I have a double protection in case the gasket failed in a few years. Of course, I put it and waited 1 hour to tie bolt to spec.

@@Tate.TopG. I'm considering to do exactly the same thing. Did it work out for you?

@elflamo7612 I put it all over the gaskets. It worked perfectly with me. Make sure you follow the directions with that product. Also, DONT FORGET TO ADD IT ON ALL THE 6 POINTS WHERE YOU ARE REQUIRED TO ADD IT. I forgot to put it on top (4 points) where the steering pump stays. The good thing is that it was an easy fix since it was on top.

How was it?

Just keep your bolts organized 🔩👍

It did way better than the unsharpened one. Go waste someone else's time

make sure you push down on the cartridge stem before attemtping to install the brackket, as at 7:30

There’s a tab on the opposite side of the metal part that hooks into a groove in the top of the faucet. Then you lower it down to put the plastic tab on the center part and screw it on.

@@williammcleod7585 I know, a little copper piece. I find it usually bends, and I can't get it back in. I end up replacing the faucet.

@@brianhiggins4614 ruclips.net/video/wJHHdg2yLsw/видео.html

Not for this particular engine, but I spent a lot of time taking it apart and reassembling it throughout the process to ensure I could showcase as much as possible with as little disassembly/reassembly during an in-person demonstration as possible. I found that taking the engine apart, marking potential cuts with a Sharpie, then putting the parts back in place helped me plan cuts before I made them.

I’m talking about the D100 with the plastic trans and Briggs engine. At least the k46 is encased by metal 🤦‍♂️

Then they were either lying or omitting key information. The D105 I was working on yesterday (bought at a big box store) has a Briggs and Stratton engine and very cheap parts-including the plastic transaxle/transmission. That's not a typo either-I really do mean it has a PLASTIC tranny. If you go to a dealer, you get an S240, which looks almost identical BUT it has a proper metal hydrostatic trans and Kawasaki engine and more robust components all around.

@@williammcleod7585 so what? the D105 will have a plastic transmission whether it was bought at a store or at a John Deere dealer. I don't know why you would compare it to the S240. They're totally different models.

Yes and you can't get the S240 or any good John Deere model from a big box store. Those only can be bought at an authorized dealer.

Also, last time I checked the D series isn't available at a dealer.

I just looked a licensed dealer's website, and indeed the D, E, and any other 100-Series model line isn't available there. And nothing other than those cheap models are available at a big box store. For your sake, I hope you haven't bought a John Deere from a big box store. That's exactly the kind of mistake I'm hoping to stop people from making with this video.

Point is it's cheaply built and won't last.