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not in our experience. if you think why scrim tape is used, to avoid cracking, the matting is very similar to this. Also the surface temperature of the system is little more than a hot summers day and has had no effect at all in various systems we have now installed. I hope this helps.

this is the worse way to maintain even heat and limit heat loss through a property. Zoning to this amount is now proven to waste a lot of energy. It is better for the building fabric to have a steady state as well as for people.

@@meservices3979 yes even heat is not always the best way. Having a base heat like 15 degrees in a room that is not used often is a better alternative. And when you use that room you get a good heated feeling fast. Motion sensors is the way to go in these rooms.

If you’re happy with it, then it is right for you. 👍

Hi It depends on lots of factors so not an easy one to comment without knowing the full facts. Is it just a room, is it a whole house, is there an ASHP already installed, does the property have solar panels etc etc. depending on the answers to this and a few more you could then determine what is best. If it is for a whole house, generally, it would be cheaper to run an ASHP. If there is gas heating currently, then the two might be as cheap to run.

@@meservices3979 Retro fit ufh and ASHP to 3 bed bungalow.. Also can the panels be placed on an artex ceiling and then overboarded and skimmed? No solar panels....

@@gallerysales your best getting a qualified and experienced heating engineer to assess and undertake the heat loss calcs in addition to the other considerations which an experienced engineer would be aware of. As far as installing over artex, I would recommend reboarding and you should also use foil backed plasterboard to deflect the infrared down into the room. I hope this helps.

@@meservices3979 Brilliant, thanks If your near I will be contacting you 👍

Please do add the link to help others. Thank you for the comment

not all all.

and much uglier. 😆

The answer is not to solve the problem. Caleffi explain in another video that it's important that the central section of the value has the lowest temperature of the any component in the system (including the outdoor unit), otherwise it can't protect the outdoor unit from damage. This also means that you can't put any trace heating close to these valves. You can insulate right upto the connections on the valve, but the body of the valve must remain uninsulated. If the home has some Solar PV and Battery storage, the energy lost is being replaced for free anyway, so perhaps its not enough to worry about.

I am not 100% what you are referring to. however, if you are installing on the upper floor we highly recommend installing higher levels of insulation above and no matter the floor always use foil backed plasterboard

there are no outdoor units or valves. this is not a wet system.

Yes. They start discharging at higher temperatures and whilst the liquid is moving it isn’t freezing. Once empty your risk has been lowered.

look at your insulation first then the size of the radiators. if you have a heat pump and had been installed correctly I would not recommend you install these panels in addition. your heat pump will be 300+% efficient, this system is only 100% in comparison.

No sorry, but you should easily be able to find someone qualified local to you. Hope this helps

could a clogged & dirty mesh filter / strainer in the combination valve cause the water pressure to drop at my taps & shower??? ive noticed the pressure drop for a week now & have checked all isolation valves are still fully open - so im wondering if i should now check the mesh strainer in the combination valve. i still have the old style heatrae sadia megaflo combination valve (15 years old) with 4 allen bolts!!! i think it may be time to change it for the new style of combination valve. any advice please???

Hi there. Every product varies, it would be advisable to refer to the specific manufacturers instructions to confirm the product meets with your requirements. Reach out to the supplier for their response they will be best placed to respond correctly to your specific query. Hope this helps.

@@meservices3979 i know that. Am asking for your opinion based on your experience of your panels.

@@amoryblaine1102 in truth i don’t install the panels you refer to, only in plaster systems. Sorry I can’t help

@@meservices3979 no worries. Cheers.

this video won’t be suitable for everyone I’m afraid. however, electric heating and electric heating will be the exact same. your heat loss determines what possible savings you can make

Hi Ken. Thanks for your comments. A few things to note. This infra red is entirely different to the panels you have. Same ish tech but as a whole house solution different also. Electric and Gas are rapidly becoming the same. So one may well not be cheaper. Oil in fact is the cheapest at the moment bought right You’ve already said your property isn’t insulated correctly so a 1:4 is unlikely and if you need to top of that heat you have some other major issues. Your unit is undersized or your emitters are. Both will result in poor SCOPs and I’d suggest you have that investigated. No full electric system is ideal, the property we are testing has solar now batteries and in the highest FIT tarrif so we knew it would pay itself to run. This was more an experiment to prove or disprove the rhetoric surrounding this tech Anyone is solidly advised to spend there money on insulation all day long as this will conserve energy. There’s after work on dropping your heating mean water temperature no matter the medium. Only that will substantially lower fuel bills long term. We are in the middle of an EWI on a filled cavity property and will post the before and after running costs in the future. The future means insulation and dropping the flow temperature. Period.

agreed, but the advantage with this system is two fold. total coverage in this system, unless you’re filling the ceiling, and then the other obvious one, aesthetics!

at the time of my reply, GCH is still cheaper to run. by far

On what basis can you say that the Dimplex Quantum would be cheaper to run? All electric 'radiators' cost the same to run - they take the same amount of electricity to reach a certain termperature. Having more control of the 'radiator' is another thing, and bring able to manage your heating can certainly help keep costs to a minimum, but all convection electric heaters cost the same to run and comparing them to the IR installation in the video is disingenuous unless you can actually point to real life data. I think it's fair to say IR (and electric convection) can't compete with gas, that's a no brainer. Replacing convection electric rads with IR is a much better case study. Show us *those* comparisons.

PV only truly offsets with battery storage. This is because in the winter months when you need the most heat, the PV in turn generates the least amount of power and never enough to run any system without storage. For example, you may be generating 50 watts but if your system needs 4kw to run, the balance between 4000 watts and 50 watts which is 3950 watts is being supplied from the grid. If you had PV when the FIT was high, the repayments would cover this. But if you add PV now without storage your kind of wasting your time. You need stored energy so you can draw all of the heating requirement.

Hi David would be interested to hear what you think of it once installed as we are looking at this system for our new build

Install a heat pump Ryan. NOTHING else can give you a COP of 3.5 and upwards!

@@ryanrankin8669 Will let you know! Hawkes Architecture will publish the data when the study is finished. A heat pump wasn't an option for me: Small house and had no existing functioning radiators so the IR install was much less upfront cost than a new wet radiator system. (was plastering ceilings anyway.) Plan to get solar and battery storage eventually to help with the undoubtedly higher running costs. Please note I have massively improved the fabric of the house too- the most important thing!

@@DavidNormanMusic would be great to get an update. We are doing new build (final stages of planning currently) and I have looked at this to heat our home. We will have 200mm cavity with blown bead insulation and going for a well insulated home which makes all the difference I feel. The thing that put me of the ASHP was the cost of the kit and installation. For our build we got quoted around £21k for kit only and the astectherm was around £9k with the savings you could do more insulation or solar to offset (that’s the plan anyway) but keen to hear real world cases

Indeed, and ASHP will have higher maintenance costs too, as it has moving parts. The key question is, when do the lines of running vs upfront cost cross on the graph (or do they!) We commissioned Mesh Energy to do a study for us on this and the results were very interesting!

I would suggest looking at something else tbh.

GringoTom - I'm in a similar situation, either stick with old storage radiators, go for an LPG system or maybe a heat pump or something 🤷‍♂️ Have you made any headway?

@@coreyjameshaims449 I bought a standalone Ir panel heater to try out. Video on my channel

@@gringotom242 thanks! Looking forward to a review once you've stress tested it a bit more 👍

Hello When the Solar PV was installed they attracted the feed-in-tariff, this is what is supporting the payments. On average you are using 25kWh per day, that is quite a lot. Do you have an older property? What temperatures are you setting the thermostats to? Are you setting back the temperatures? How leaky is your property? Age, insulation, glazing etc?

@@meservices3979 on average I’m using 40-60kWh per day according to my energy provider app. Temps are set to 17 overnight and 20 for 2.5 hours in the morning and 2.5 hours at night. It’s a 200-year old cottage but has been renovated and fully insulated. Double glazing all round. It baffles me! Do you think solar + battery would help?

It is all explained in the video Mansuk :)

Great, you were much more fortunate. Agree with the solar, if youre on the decent FIT then no batteries needed, at least for a good few years. How many kW of battery storage do you have? You have to weigh the life of the batteries also. Thanks

Hi Mike keen to here what you thought of astectherm and also how the system is working for you. How is costs to run?

Please check out my 3rd video, it will be available shortly.

not without knowing what infrared heater you have Amber? Please feel free to email the image of the heater to hello@maneservices.co.uk :)

Hi David Send an email initially to: hello@maneservices.co.uk

Hi Danny We have one more video to upload Insulation, no need but recommend you obviously have the 270mm if possible. (Top up maybe required) What I do recommend more so is you use foil backed plasterboard or install foil roll in the loft to deflect the IR. 👍

@@meservices3979 many thanks