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@@firo3869 it’s highly unlikely that the intercooler would fail and leak internally. You’d have a lot of white smoke coming out of the exhaust and the cylinders on that bank would be cleaner than the other bank, if you check inside the spark plug hole with a camera you could determine which intercooler is bad. Otherwise you have a bad line somewhere that’s leaking. You’d have to check under the car to see whats wet. Another thought is that the system wasn’t bled properly the first time you filled it after replacing your intercooler circuit’s coolant reservoir. Fill it again and see if it goes down again to the same level.

Regardless of what body kit is on an f chassis 6 series it still looks better than pretty much any new BMW 😂

@@dariusGarage 100% agree but i wish you went with lci non M kit, i like how elegant F series shape and i accept how it look sleeper 🤣

@@hasanalothman27that one looks nice too good point. Still love my m sport though😄

@@us1fedvet this is a very good ideology. Preventative maintenance is key. Oil in particular is super important. While it doesn’t hurt to change fuel filters as often as that, if there was a bit of maintenance you could neglect, the fuel filter would be the one you could get away with. I’ve seen many high mileage diesel vehicles with old high mileage filters running happily. On the contrary I’ve seen vehicles with fuel filters changed semi regularly where the high pressure pumps failed and destroyed the injectors. While I can’t find a reason why you shouldn’t change your fuel filter so regularly, It’s also hard for me to find a reason to NEED to change the filters as frequently as that… at least where I live where the fuel is relatively clean.

@@dariusGarage thanks for the advice. My filter, unlike old diesel filters, doesn’t have a petcock to drain off condensate. I used to think that helped to keep things clean and prevent corrosion. You have a good channel.

@@us1fedvet Thank you! Funny enough none of my vehicles had any sort of water separation device installed either. This is not typically the job of these fuel filters found in the cars I work with, its strictly a dust/debris filter from my understanding. Hence why I don't see a need to change out the filter all that often, I am careful not to allow water or dirt to enter the fuel system during fill-ups.

@ appreciate your knowledge! Thanks.

@@F10Joosbi seen it done before and yes totally agree!😄

@@Great_America I took my brakes apart and found some rust buildup on the sliders as well as the edges being worn down, sanded new edges in, cleaned out the expansion groove, cleaned out the sliders, and applied anti seize again. It’s definitely improved but still there under light braking. It may just be the ebc redstuff design on my vehicle lends itself to squeal a little more than on your application.

Your engine’s PCV is the same concept as mine, but the way it’s mounted is slightly different. The thinner cross hose that I broke off is one time use, once it’s on it’s not separable. Just don’t try to take it off like me, I wanted to learn about the system as a guinea pig, that’s the only reason I tried.

@ no u deffinetly got her done👍🏾I’m curious how the gates pcv is working out for ya. I couldn’t find the brand gates for our pcv(ccv) just Mahle and no name brand of eBay maybe it’s the same there’s no date sticker or branding on it like the mahle one. That m6 is hella spicy too🦾 2018 last good year for bmws in my opinion thanks for getting back to me I was wondering about that my guess is it all has to go in together. Also I think there mounted the same aslong as u got that version of ccv it mounts same spot I dunno I got the n63tu2 engine my intercoolers have a black plastic piece ontop or the cooler. maybe the bottom to can’t remember. Can u send me the link where u got your pcv I can’t find the gates brand

Wait yours is s63 not n63 right? My bad

@@nathandunstan640 gates has been discontinued for a couple months now unfortunately. And my car is a 650i with n63tu. The S63tu has a different pcv system that I like more and will retrofit when I do the valve seals. I would avoid cheaping out on the pcv system as it can cause smells in the cabin, alter the engines idle and turbo’s functionality causing premature wear, sometimes the engine can start to squeal from too much pressure. Anything you can find on fcp euro I would trust, some stuff on rock auto is also ok (where I bought the gates pcv).

@@wach1722 When you have a more successful channel than mine I’d be happy to chat about areas of improvement. Until then please keep your negativity to yourself.

@@maja-x7l yes if your bolsters don’t work you should use the information provided from my video, it will vary from model to model so you may only be missing a cable per side or you may need to add more than that. On a side note, I’m pretty sure that the pre lci seats don’t have whiplash protection in the headrests so you’ll likely need to retrofit that.

@@dariusGarage If it comes to the headrest - ive decoded that already, so this should not be a problem, im gonna check tommorow if thats the case and im gonna update here. Thanks:)

@@agsosj14 my car is relatively low mileage and opted to simply top up after repairs… but that would have been the time!

@@ericvasania I have been asked this question a few times and I feel that anything is possible, but it’s going to be a pain as there is not much space to work with. Not only do you need to solder the wire, you also should lengthen the cables to prevent the issue from recurring. People say they were going to try to do it and report back but nobody has yet!

@@NemanjaGuitar thank you for watching and good call! It’s possible the filter is clogged and overflowing or one of the hoses possibly started leaking and needs a tighter clamp or hose replacement.

@@ruelbautista9966 there’s a replaceable bulb for 2 stage brake lamp or fog light if I recall correctly, but if the light strips are flickering you’ll need to replace the entire light

@@Jotomoz I’d love to try the hawk hps 5.0 but they don’t make it for my 650i unfortunately not enough enthusiasts in 650’s I guess

@@dariusGarage I think hawk pc is higher friction than 5.0 according to the graphs

@@Jotomoz thanks for the top tip!

@dariusGarage @dariusGarage no sweat after watching how porsche centre single nut rims always torqued it to spec so my wild theory is a rotor is like a large washer. over torqued is causing it to flex under heat and stress when brake is applied. correct the torque and the flex should go away. i did not machine my new rotors after the pulsating and turned out ok. after some research I think hawk pcs are my go to

@@captainvenom4377 it’s possible that your car has more than one issue on different parts of it. One scanner may read only engine related codes and other other may read both engine and transmission related codes

My wife’s Cooper also has both this code and the evaporator leak.

@@theftworthrealtor everyone wants to go change out that leak detection pump right from the get go, but on the newer cars they hardly ever fail! I actually have a more in depth video coming soon!

@@travismachado4406 in theory yes, in practice no. Drilling rotors in particular is the least effective for performance gains as the holes in the drilled rotors only cool the metal around just around the holes, the non drilled areas remain quite hot… meaning uneven expansion and contraction of the rotors (warping and cracking results). They also have less heat capacity as there is less metal to heat up, so they over heat faster, this also means they cool faster yes but that means nothing when your brake fluid is absorbing that heat… and that won’t cool fast! Look at race cars and see what they use, they use primarily plain rotors and sometimes slotted. The slots on slotted rotors allow for the brake pad surface to be cleaned off, they are noisy and can make brake pad life shorter. With plain pads, pad material builds up and can prevent full contact with the rotor surface on plain rotors, this can also lead to pad deposit spots on the rotor face which cause pulsation/vibration in the wheel. The upside is smooth, quiet performance, (as long as everything is working properly) with long service life. These rotors are the least likely to warp

@@travismachado4406 but don’t take my word for it! Here’s an engineer’s take ruclips.net/video/EIa6_C1B6UQ/видео.htmlsi=kE4uqHEUkegwQiDn

@@Yeniceri550 sorry forgot to mention that! It’s an 8mm Allen

@@dariusGarage thank you, great channel btw,,subscribed👍

@@mikle65 not that I know of, it’s too detailed and fiddly to fix one of these subwoofers, much easier to just replace

@@dariusGaragecould It be possible to solder new wire ?

@@amanoorjohal8030 anything is possible, but it’s going to be a pain as there is not much space to work with. Additionally it would be best to lengthen the cables to prevent the issue from recurring. I’m sure people would be interested in the same thing so let us know how it goes for you!

@@dariusGarage appreciate the response and video. Ill let you know how it goes

@@willowm.7475 could be that you installed a defective pcv or something fell into the turbo while you were performing the service

@@dariusGarage They change my hose becouse it Was broken this one is going from air filter and unplug the PCV that going in ,and than it Was started .

@@willowm.7475 assuming that you changed the turbo inlet pipe… you likely had a leaky turbo inlet pipe… if that was the case then it is still possible that you had a defective pcv all this time but it was venting/sucking pressure into/from the atmosphere without you knowing. To check this remove your oil cap with the engine running and see if the sound persists, if the sound does not change with with cap on or off then the PCV is good, does it change with RPM? Like I said before something may have fallen into the turbo during the service, remove the inlet and inspect the turbos for damage.

@@dariusGarage I take off the Oil cap nothing change in sound

@@willowm.7475 PCV is likely not your issue, check your turbos

@@PowerfulQuotesBible good point, the only thing I checked after the replacement of the sensors was that the code didn’t return, not really something that most people would care for. I didn’t investigate further into what the numbers look like after the replacement because why invest more time into something that’s no longer a concern? Better spend that time and effort on something else that’s actually broken. But I can understand why you would want those numbers, for your own comparison. As for the idle, it’s much improved, the engine is so smooth now, very happy.

@@rexpontiusful wow that’s pretty hot! All testing here was done cruising until constant temperatures were achieved, slow down to first gear speeds, and then a full send.

@@koppen89 if brake dust is your main priority I’d say go with akebono Euro ceramic, they’re seriously squeaky on the first stop when it’s cold. But I have yet to see a less dusty brake pad. Relative to other pads I find that I’d call these a medium dust pad, trust me there’s way more dusty pads out there

@@zanewarren2774 I wish! Unfortunately my region doesn’t have E

@@88adrian25 I would say your problem lies elsewhere. These should be the first thing to check/replace when experiencing excessive oil consumption. The first thing I’d check is to see if you have any codes stored on your DMEs. Go with a professional high end scan tool, not just a generic one. Address those problems. If you still feel like it’s lacking power even though it’s running smoothly (it should be so smooth you don’t feel the engine running), you should look at the turbocharging system, make sure your turbos are boosting properly, these cars rely heavily on them working right. Essentially make sure they are getting to their 22 psi rating. Also make sure the car is not overheating as they’ll go into fail safe modes if they detect overheating, check your coolant levels when the car is cold. These are complex engines and there are many things to look out for. There’s no shame in taking these cars to a mechanic who knows their way around these engines… should you not know how to fix it.

@@dariusGarage thank you!! So much!! I appreciate the feedback!! I will start off with those tips.

@@shpendiahmeti9228 it depends on your country and region’s fuel quality, if you use fuels with lots of contaminants then you might want to change it as often as every other oil change (16k kms). On the other hand, if you use clean fuel then nothing will cause the filter to clog up, you could probably get away with never changing it, I’ve seen it first hand on my dads diesel BMW with 320k kms, he’s never changed it and the vehicle still runs like a champ. If you want to be on the safe side to see how good your fuel quality is, change the filter and inspect how full it is by opening up the filter like I did, and then you can make an estimate how long it’ll take to get blocked and need changing

@@dariusGaragethank you! It’s been 147k miles and havnt changed it yet - however I have been going to the same gas station 90% of the time.

@@shpendiahmeti9228 at that mileage it’s tempting to check it out that’s for sure :) but it sounds like everything is fine in your area and your filter won’t be too bad.

@@kasmiester8 yes, I thought I put it in this video but I guess not haha! It’s under the bank 2 turbo inlet(driver side North America). Once you remove it it’s right there. You can use a brass t fitting or you can opt for URO aluminum y fitting with new insulated lines

@dariusGarage Sounds good. Would I need to remove the other turbo inlet? Also what about the air filter housing, do you think I'd be able to leave that in place and just unbolt the Driver side (US) turbo inlet? Along with the V band on the charge pipe.

@@kasmiester8 you might be able to but honestly it’s not a big deal to take either of them out, taking the air box out will make taking the inlet out easier. They are fragile so be careful when removing it, you may want to order new red/orange seals for the inlet. The charge pipe will also possibly get in the way of the screw for the inlet. Remove the turbo to charge pipe clamp and flex the charge pipe out of the way, then access will be easy

Post cat is 15167 (Bosch) or 11787526262 (oem) www.ecstuning.com/b-bosch-parts/o2-sensor-pre-cat/11787614322~bos/ Upstream (pre cat) is Bosch 17187 or 11787576673 (oem) www.ecstuning.com/b-bosch-parts/oxygen-sensor-priced-each/17187~bos/

@@pjefsquad tell me about it! It’s a 4 seat car but mine has always had at least 4 passengers plus me the driver😂

We tapped into the #8 ground to create #13. We also had to tap into the #4 to create #7

Just the front 2, for the back we were going to upgrade it to M5 brakes as well (larger rotor and M5 calipers) but ended up trading in the car before we got to it. The back brakes don't look that great even when upgraded as they are just a single piston design like any other car, just painted blue with a larger rotor. Its hard to upgrade the back to something nicer as the caliper must also have e brake functionality and there are no pretty off the shelf BMW rear calipers with E brake built in.

Thank you and hope the job goes smoothly for you!

@@dariusGarage thanks!! Do you recall if part # URO 11537578687PRM came with the cinch crimps or did you buy them separately? They look like 1/2 inch cinch crimps

@@Thomasz126it comes exactly as pictured on the website. I unpackaged that part at around the 18 minute mark, it does come pre clamped and I had to unclamp it.

Does it come with a BJ?