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Glad it was helpful. The wet rag is a good alternative to the rubber mat I guess.

Hi Daniel, Thanks for pointing that out. I have to agree with you that it looks like 24a is the wrong method leading to the wrong solution. We should be looking for the optimal path which would be FEB.

@@ErichForler Thanks for clarifying.

Glad it was helpful. Good luck with your repair.

@@ErichForler Thanks to you my wife thinks I'm a genious ... :D

Glad I could help. I hope the rack works out as well for you as it does for me.

I've got another video I'm working on which shows the build for a clamp which clamps the sides of the skis which can accommodate different widths of skis regardless of the binding. It can theoretically also accommodate a downhill ski as well. Not sure when I'll get that video released so subscribe and you'll see it when it appears.

Thanks I’ll keep my eye out

Glad to hear it was helpful.

Glad it helped!

Glad to hear it was helpful for you.

Hi Ben, If my memory serves me, there was a small plug underneath the handle and when you remove that, I think there was an Allen key (hex head) set screw that had to be loosened.

That's awesome Kenyon. I'm glad you've been able to make use of my experiences to help you craft your own solution. It would be great to be able to share the sketchup file but I'm guessing you're correct that it's not something that RUclips wants linked from comments. I'm planning to set up a Web site for details eventually, but haven't done it yet. Once I get the running, we could put the link to the file there. How short are the kids skis? My stand adjusts enough for my family's shortest skis but none of them are very short. Are you using the T-Track or fixed bolts in the base? Either way, I've found that if I reverse the tip and tail supports, they can support a shorter ski. The only problem is that the tip's curve isn't supported that way. I appreciate the measurements on the different binding needs. All my bindings clamp on the same diameter rod, so I know what I have to do to accommodate different skis. I've just been getting the right size nails from my accumulated inventory to fit but I'll spend some time thinking about a more reliable source. I've been investigating a method for clamping the ski into position rather than using the binding for holding the ski in place. I'll do a video of that if I get it working well. Ski season is just about over here (despite the blizzard that blew in tonight) but I'm hoping to continue with some design improvements over the next couple of months.

@@ErichForler The kids skis are around 110-130. I'm using the fixed bolts. I could probably shorten the sliding base pieces to get a little more room, but it works well enough as it is. I played with some ideas for clamping the skis without using the binding, but gave up for now. The binding shapes are different enough and it's tough to get a good hold without starting to overlap the ski base. I think it's possible, but I lost interest :). For now, I'm not using my downhill skis so the motivation's lower. With projects like this, I'm always appreciative of the few decent hardware stores left. Trying to find bolts at the big box ones is so frustrating. I'm finally investing in a wall-mounted nut/bold thread checker so I just order exact parts online. Thanks again for this build; it's a cool piece to have mounted on the wall for people to guess at :).

Interesting thought. I'm not sure how well the water and vinegar would get into the thread but it's worth a try next time.

They've all found homes so far but I'll eventually have a surplus.

That's a tough one. Honestly, I would suggest upgrading the bindings on your skis. If you're set on staying retro, I guess you would have to fashion a piece of wood to fit the three pin binding and then you could probably use a similar method to tighten it down. Finding some used bindings would definitely be less work but of course then you need new boots as well.

HI Yvan, glad you liked the video. The first two I built were the same. I've built a couple more this year that are variations on the original design and I'll be releasing those videos soon so like and subscribe and you'll get notification when they're released. I don't have plans for these. They are mostly ad-hoc. Maybe once I settle on a final design I'll think about making a formal plan to share. Until then, the end of the video shows the key measurements.

There is a diagram at mr.forler.ca/component/content/article/33-blog-hands-on-tech/134-raspberry-pi-with-temperature-and-moisture-sensor?Itemid=101

Sorry about that. You can find it here: mr.forler.ca/component/content/article/33-blog-hands-on-tech/134-raspberry-pi-with-temperature-and-moisture-sensor?Itemid=101

Fixed now.

same question here - I believe resistors are needed, or a logic level converter if you have one

Late answer... But the sensor needs 5Vdc if I'm correct and the Rpi can't handle 5v directly to the I/O of the pi, so you'll need a voltage divider U=Uin+ R2/(R1+R2). Keep the idle voltage below 3.3v and you should be ok.