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great review 🔥 the point you said about the anodized pickguard at 1:45 and how it feels to touch is exactly how i felt when i tried it at my local store and i wondered why no on ever mentioned it in the countless reviews i watched of this bass. Its a huge turn off.

Thanks for the info!

Player sounds lots bassier 👏🏼👏🏼

Tool, Alice In Chains, Metallica….noice. Haha

I miss the days when you could walk into a pawn shop and pick up Mexican Fender basses for $225 or buy them new for $400. I disagree about your quality assessment of Mexican vs. American. The quality is better as well as the hardware on the American basses. Having owned both, I'm speaking from experience. However, neither of them are a good value new. I bought my American J bass in excellent condition for around $900 less than what it cost new. I say buy used whenever possible.

Love the Vinteras!

What style of playing is that at 0:51

I 100% agree with you the base of the bridge that has nothing to do with your tongue. It’s all about the saddles, whether they are steel or brass.

Great job explaining your views. 👍

I’m getting string rattle from the bridge on my new Squire Bronco (upgrade project) Bass. It appears to be coming from the D string. Thanks! ✌️🙂🎻😎

Shoddily videos ....wicked man

Hello I just wanted to add my opinion on this. Your illustration of the round saddle with string is a bit off. The saddles all have the same large groove and all are larger than the strings. This leads to a single point of string contact. Most guitar saddles use a V shaped saddle, not all. That gives the strings two points of contact and no way to move vertically. My Fender Pro II came with the high mass bridge but also some nice saddles that have multiple groves for adjusting string spacing for your personal preference. It’s the same principle found on old Fenders that used a threaded piece for a saddle, it worked.

The other contact point is the nut, not the tuners, though.

Packers suck

I see people going crazy after high-mass bridges, talking about a sustain they aren't able to hear, but I rarely see people touching upon an actually relevant aspect of installing a high-mass bridge (you almost got into that but didn't expand or reflect on much about) - balance. Expensive basses have high masses bridges plus lightweight tuners to improve balance by reducing neck dive.

the 'tone' is made with the fingers, that is a very big part in the sound you produce, the rest is just gear

Recently put a Fender high mass bridge on an old, cheap Japanese bass from the 70s. Bought more for the aesthetic and it was a clear upgrade on what was on it Stays in tune way better and feels better to play. the saddles don't move and feel much more stable. Definitely has a bit more punch and feels tighter. No dramatic change in tone or sustain but I would still consider it an improvement and, I my case anyway, well worth the money spent.

I have a 69 Fender Precision w/Jazz Neck at the time custom color, Ocean Turquoise, block inlay on rosewood neck/bought at the music store I worked for in 1969. 2024 and Fender Custom Shop says "Sorry we won't touch it because you don't have a receipt"; although I do have owners manual with name of "E Paxton", only Custom Shop in Colorado is HB Woodsong, Boulder. I thought Fender had control of their channel. I believe HB Woodsong is telling Fender that no receipt, no work. Moving away from Fender. If they would do this to a Senior, think what they'll do to you. Buyer Beware. I will post this on other sites selling Fender.

Many are quick to upgrade the Player series pickups but I like them. Nice variety of tones. They can be modern without getting scoopy and vintage with tone at 50%.

I noticed: the longer and more they talk the worse they play. This guy talks aloooooooot.

I prefer old worn round wounds You can run new strings through your hands a bunch before putting them on and it will help to reduce the new zingy overtones a bit. I like Heavy Thunderous Bass Tones, not zingy zippy bass

I actually preferred the sound of the Player Series, even though the Vintera is a more refined instrument.

I put a high mass bridge in my jazz bass. There was no tonal change or extra sustain compared to the stock bridge. However, it has not sharp edges so it’s staying installed.

Player sounds darker, perhaps due to ceramic pups (?). I wonder how Vintera sounds if the tone knob is closed a bit.

Just get the gotoh high mass bridge.

tape wound sound better

The Japanese Fujigen ones are really good. But not as sweet as the Fender P Basses they made at Fujigen.

I know its original, but what kind of bridge is that? Uneven thumbwheels, looks uncompensated. I can't find any info on it. Its gotta have a parts number right?

I bought a used Vintera. It definitely feels more "vintagey" than other Ps I've had. Mine had EMG Geezers. Really "P" sounding and great w overdrive.I like the anodized pg but sometimes it can get bent from taking the plug in and out. I put a washer over it to reinforce it. It reminds me of a 57-58. I'm used to a J neck for years, so there was a little bit different, but it definitely reminds me of a vintage bass.

I believe the Packers need more sustain that that P bass.

Good demo! Just bought a Players P…came with rounds of course but bought a pack of rounds to eventually switch out. Love the bass though.

That is an incredible looking bass, gorgeous finish and cool pickguard. I like the thinner/narrower the necks as is so that's a plus. Sounds awesome too! Subscribed to see when you start selling these ^^

great explination

Great job. just ordered one. Did you have to shim the neck at the heel?

Great video, I've heard numerous comparisons between high mass, and standard ones, and I can't hear any significance between the two. If players want a high mass bridge for looks I think that's ok, but don't expect any major sound difference. What did make a difference was putting some new Rotosound RS66LF strings on, they gave me the punch and low end growl that I wanted.

Rounds definetly. I agree with you. Inspiring video, thanks.

Did you have to shim the neck? I’ve always heard you had to with the upgrade. The bridge is thicker then the bent plate

The bypass delay is for when you go to the heel position the wah or fuzz doesn’t cut out by accident

Vintera for the win!🏆

Thanks!! Rounds sound Good same boat with you, that snappy Harmonic almost guitarish tone!

I think Fender wants the entry level player series to get to $1000, that is where it is headed unfortunately.

The difference between guitar and bass is sustain in the bass end of the register isn't melodic. Legato bass is tricky. A tuba quartet is never as lovely as four human voices across the full range of possible octaves... The top 3 strings of a Bass VI may be capable of that sort of melodic sound, but the business end no. 4 strings the sustain is there on the E and A with these bridges and more: folks call it resonance but it's actually increased string harmonics. The resonant frequencies in the body and neck of the bass put that energy back into the string excursion, hence the longer time interval of that string excursion. The greater the range of resonant frequencies in the wood results in increased string harmonics. Re: mass it's the same with Les Paul tailpieces, the actual upgrade is lower weight. Aluminum transfers resonance faster than all other inexpensive alloys and steel. Zinc is gummy compared to brass and steel and soaks up string excursion energy. All cast "hi-mass" bridges are far more rigid than bent steel which isolates string energy. The one old style saddle bridge that's worth the money is the Albridge with bell bronze saddles, the full contact options are 2, Babicz and KSM. The Babicz is considerably more ugly, the KSM *can* be visually doable on a vintage pr vintage styled intrument but is the most expensive option short of the $400 Kahler tremolo bridge. What's odd is most high mass bridges will extend the sustain and increase the harmonics of the E and A strings but damp the D and G, I've measured. I believe it's basically because the greater string energy in the E and A can overcome the weight of a heavy bridge, simple as that. The Albridge rings thru all 4 strings, as does the KSM, the Albridge has an aluminum plate, the KSM is entirely aircraft aluminum except the clamp bar and intonation screws. I found a used KSM for $125 but only after many many months of searching. It's on my PJ partscaster with a Klein Epic '59 split coil and a Klein Epic '64 single coil, Thomastik Infeld flats and a Fender Standard rosewood Jazz neck. With the KSM it's a universe away from the threaded nickel saddle vintage bridge BUT the coolest part of playing this thing is guiding it back the original thunk: with sufficient muting I can shorten the decay but the transients have way more bloom, I don't have to correct being buried in the mix with boost pedals or gain, it's like a built presence switch. And in cases when I'm trying for my best upright emulations I'm a universe closer than I've ever been. It can take a while to get where you want, you have to take on everything that leaches string energy and consider everything that increases string excursion harmonics. Even the dead frets on the G can be cured, it's all about coupling mass to the headstock and whether you go heavy or light. Players used to screw lflat ead fishing weights to the back of the headstock on the other side the string tree. You can test this easily: press the end of your headstock against a wall at 90 degrees and play the 5th 6th and 7th fret notes on the G, the dead notes will have normal sustain because you've coupled your peghead to the mass of the wall. Reducing mass often works as well, hence Hipshot Ultralite tuners. Also make sure your neck screw threads aren't tight in the body holes, they should either *just* stay in place when you remove the neck or fall out. This way the connecting force of the screw head is tranferred to the neck plate and the neck is actually coupled to the body. Make sure no more than half the diameter of your strings rest in the nut grooves, sand down the top of your nut until you get there. Make sure your nut grooves give you .022 to .018 at the first fret, set the whole instrument up to Fender spec to start. Do at least 3 string wraps on the tuner posts, 4 on the A if you don't have the "stealth" string tree on the A, so the strings won't slip and so they're seated against the witness points in the nut grooves. All these little things add up. All that said I'm also on board with playing within the limits of what Leo originally designed and as far as he took things up to CBS interloping around '64. I don't have $10K for a '59 P but I do have $150 for a split coil from Klein or Curtis Novak or The Creamery and $60 for La Bellas and your Vintera is fantastic starting point. Try a Curtis Novak PB-Fat, even though the machine wound Vintera pick-up is a keeper. Get a dirt pedal like the JHS Crayon or the TC Electronic MojoMojo and wake it up!

I agreee with you in regards to anodized pickguards- very annoying.

Its not a myth, but rock on Dude

Great demo, and solid playing friend. I've got a 2007 ATK300 made in Indonesia and a 95 ATK300FL (fretless) I absolutely adore them both and every bass player I know that ever owned one regrets selling theirs. Definitely a bass that punches way above it's weight and price to value ratio is just absurd with these.

What are those strings?

Been a bassist since 1969 and IMO sustain or lack thereof is mostly related to the wood in the neck and how it mates with the body wood. A good example is when Fender went to the large headstock on the Strat. That change gave the Strat a fatter tone with more sustain. I've always felt the same about a Tele bass versus a P or J. The bigger headstock had a bit more sustain. But when it comes to a bass, the technique of muting with both hands is very important. A bass can get muddy and loose definition really fast without a proper muting technique. So is sustain really something that's highly desired in a bass when you're pretty much muting all the time anyways? Again like you this is just my opinion. Others may disagree and that s fine. The real advantage to any high mass bridge is stability over sustain I think.

Holy shit. That Vintera sounds alot better as the Player series

I agree very much , there is so much BS in this area, material, weight etc😊

not a fan of this "upgrade" as you lose the option of string through body... the precision american standard bridge gives you the string through body option with a higher mass than the smaller bridge. Higher mass bridges and string through body does affect tone.