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Yeah, I’m gonna bring it in next week, my tech says it may need to be filled & recut. Funny thing is this happened to my Tele too & that’s what they did.

I bought the replacement motor from Sumiko service@sumikoaudio.net maybe you can get an adapter from them. The two “missing” screws I think you’re referring to are for transport shipping, you remove them so the motor is suspended by the rubber band. I hope this helps😊

That’s the reason I sold it on Reverb rather than return the product, I would have had to pay return shipping.

Thanks for the kind words, I just ordered it, I had a pretty good idea what to expect having played many L-00’s of different price ranges. Dunlop very thick.

@@santacruz3600 That’s awesome! I am playing a Manuel & Patterson 000 guitar with a Blue Chip pick. I admire that you picked that model! I think they are amazing from what I hear and have heard! Your audio recording sounds great on my end! Thanks

Hey, are you still enjoying this guitar? I came back to watch the video again!

I always gravitate to small body acoustics because they are the most comfortable for me. I started on a D-18, but ever since then I’ve scaled down, first to 000, then 00 size.

Hi glad you liked it. The neck is big very similar to other past Gibson issues, 1937 Legend & 1936 Elvis Costello Century of Progress, maybe a hair thicker, personally I love the neck shape but I’m already used to it, owning those other L-00’s.

Nice Giants cap…that mahogany has a more crisp sound than i thought it would..but i like it. Could be that aged red-spruce. Man I’m jealous!

I just got one and could not understand how to read it until I read your feedback. Thanks djb3545

The original was at a poor angle, this is something I didn’t take notice of until I bought a new 2021 SG & saw that the angle was perfect. I could move the bar around back & it lays low so I could close the case & in forward playing position just the right height.

The original was at a poor angle, this is something I didn’t take notice of until I bought a new 2021 SG & saw that the angle was perfect. I could move the bar around back & it lays low so I could close the case & in forward playing position just the right height.

Means your relief is .05

@@shawnbillock8968 thanks Shawn

It's not at all obvious at first. Once zero'd, place it on the neck and slowly rock it. You will see the needle swing a bit. The trick is to watch where it is the lowest before it starts rising again. THAT is the actual measurement at true perpendicular. Machinists always rock dial indicators back and forth for this reason, it's really hard to know if you are perfectly square so this is the workaround. Hopefully this helps!

@@dangoldbach6570 thanks Dan, I guess the flaw in this is that you have to guess where that point is, and you could be wrong.

Hi, I did solve the issue, the gauge was not set up accurately because I used the glass counter top of my stereo cabinet which is not a machined flat surface. Once I had set it properly using a straight edge everything read properly.

It’s difficult to understand your situation without seeing your guitar and I’m no expert on maestro’s. 1. Is the Maestro you bought made by “All Parts”? Don’t quote me on this but I believe the “All Parts” Maestros have a more shallow angle at the claw/spring, something like 10 degrees. This particular “Crazy Parts” Maestro replica is an 18 degree angle which was recommended by Crazy Parts for my 2006 Custom Shop SG, however I never did install it to see if that angle would in fact have worked for my guitar. 2. Regarding the neck angle on your SG if I’m understanding correctly the bridge must be set pretty low, therefore the Maestro claw where the strings connect must be even lower to have a proper break angle. You may possibly need a Maestro with a more pronounced claw/spring angle for your guitar. This Maestro is for sale, I know it’s a bit expensive but it’s very good quality & I’m flexible on the price I mention in this video. Maybe forward this video to your tech and ask him if he thinks it may work on your guitar. Thanks for reaching out, good luck!

@@santacruz3600 Did you ever sell it? I'm a lefty BTW, but maybe if the spring is the main part with the higher degree... my lefty claw could work? I'm back to trying to make this work. I just got a lefty Chinese firebird and the maestro works great.. although it does go down in the front claw as you say. AND I found a Klein Digital Angle Finder on Amazon that shows my FB neck angle to be only 2 degrees. And the downward tension is not an issue. The shop told me I needed 3 degrees or more to work. Turns out my SG is 3.5 degrees. Do you own a caliper? IF so could you measure the bridge + saddle height of yours for me? I've been told over 0.675" (set at the right action) will give the proper tension. Trying to research all I can b4 I have holes drilled in the SG. Thanks!

Yes I did sell it. Thanks

I don’t know if the screws were exactly the same size, probably very close. The issue was the screw holes on the crazy parts vibrola plate did not line up with the holes on the guitar from the original gibson vibrola.

It's a high quality piece. I just got a gold one a week ago.

I actually got it working well for me. using a glass counter top to set the gauge isn't accurate, I used a stewmac straight edge to set the gauge, it's tricky to balance it on a straight edge but moving it back and forth you can see where it zeros out at . Once I got it properly set up, I set most of my electric’s up at .05 relief and I’m very happy with the results. I’ll probably make another video showing how I did this. another thing I thought of is to possibly have a machinist make me an accurate flat block to set the gauge, but it depends on how much that would cost.

@@santacruz3600 I use a marble pastry board. Large, smooth and stable.

The small needle indicates the number of long needle revolutions. .100" per long needle revolution. If your guitar has 1/8" (.125") of relief or back bow the gage isn't going to be required. Lol

The small gauge measures 1/10". Each small devision is 1/1000", so the "10" is measuring 10/1000" which is 0.010". Pop a feeler gauge under it to see it working. You can set it so that dead flat measures 0 on the small gauge and 0 on the large gauge (which is what the actual gauge is designed to work). Stewmac set it to 1 so that you can actually measure backbow. Pretty handy tool really. Extremely sensitive though, so zeroing it on a piece of anything other than a dead flat surface designed to be dead flat will be tricky. You can get a string height attachment to fit the gauge in too, so you can accurately measure string action (something I struggle with using fealer gauges)

@@thebamfordman I picked up some tools from Music Nomad and have not touched it since. I will have a look again.

I agree with comment - the indicator should be resting on the fret wire - 5th or 6th fret. Each line on the gauge is 1/1000 of an inch (.001). I typically set up my guitars for 6/1000 of an inch (first 6 lines on gauge ) which is just a little bit of relief. So maybe yo need to recalibrate the gauge.

I had been looking to buy one for a while, it seemed like a good tool so I just ordered one. The jury’s still out, it seems to be easy enough to calibrate, but it’s little difficult to keep from moving all over. I’m assuming the gauge needs to be level while in use or upright? As said in other comment before, it would be good to have a video on the use of this tool. Stewmac seems to have vdeos on every nook and cranny for every aspect of of their other tools and services.

@@larrymedeiros Why would you equate a positive measure on the gauge as relief? Elevation of the fifth fret relative to the first and 12th frets would indicate a bow in the neck.

@Marc Pernia Sure: this definition should help: Neck relief is the amount of bend in a guitar (electric or acoustic) neck. It is determined by string tension and environmental condition and the proper amount to insure good playability without fret buzz is set by adjusting the truss rod

@@larrymedeiros While im perfectly clear on the meaning of neck relief, I do appreciate you following up with a definition. I should point out for future readers, that particular definition could be a bit misleading; relief in a guitar neck is not simply "the amount of bend in a guitar neck", which seems to imply that a bend in any direction is relief. Relief is specifically the curvature in the neck bringing the center of the fretboard AWAY from the strings, or, "bow". What you describe above, "6/1000 of an inch (first 6 lines on gauge )", is "a little bit" of back-bow. Depression of the gauge plunger beyond the zero mark indicates back-bow, i.e. each tick to the right of zero is .001in. of back-bow, not relief.

Hahaha Jerk! 🙄

More money than sense methinks. Get off the forums & just play the Gtr!

Me too !!! I'll give him $53 for it !!!