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Did it stop on its own? Because mine (push start) cracks but then cuts off

That rear rail killed me

What's the name of the part ur buying in place of the wire.... Or what kind of wire..

I am doing that because is very expensive change the latch on the sliding door, but to put the track window is a ...... I have two days trying to put that track. The track window is insane.

Did you soak your bolts beforehand?

you have a lot of soot/carbon buildup on the valves and head, that could be because of an over-rich carburetor or oil burning as you have mentioned...this could be due to worn valve guides (especially on the intake valves), bad rings or less likely with your L-head, the PCV valve sucking in oil....but, remember, take everything we say with 'a grain of salt' as we are not physically in front on your motor....oh..you can sort of test the valve stems/guides by wiggling the open valve back on forth, it should barley move.

the leak could also be in the head...clean it really well and check it for small cracks especially around the water passages....while you have it out, take a metal straight edge (a large carpenters square) and check to see if it is warped...this can also cause a leak at the gasket

water intrusion into the cylinders generally steam cleans everything nice and 'shiny'....but you may not have ran the engine enough hours for that to completely occur...otherwise, water is somehow getting into an exhaust port....if you do eventually pull off the exhaust manifold have look and see if one of the 4 ports is especially cleaner than the rest..you might be able to see this by rotating the engine and looking under the open valves.

I have to take some leads off a fuse box and a couple of bolts are really rusty - like really rusty. A kid at a junk yard told me about this stuff and most of the videos I could find seemed like paid endorsements. Since I was looking for this on RUclips earlier this video came up as recommended. I appreciate you taking the time to make this video because this is the only one that seems like a real person - other videos were on channels with names like "Great Product Reviews" etc. and I am suspicious that most of those things are, basically, paid advertising. I had never heard of this before and I'm 72. Thanks - I'm gonna get some tomorrow.

Youre awesome! Thank you for your help! 🎉 subscribed

Go for electronic ignition if you don’t have it now.

Welcome to the family. I have had the problems of 6 Willys.

you are assuming that no one has put the flywheel on 180 degrees out of whack, which is how i found mine when I tried to time it... so , I just used #4 cyl at TC and timed it with #4 cyl, no prob... Go Trump

Your supposed to use the oil and also heat them up and bang on them not just spray and pray lol

My door is doing the exact same thing on my 2016 Dodge Grand Caravan. When I brought it to the dealer I told them that I think it’s the actuator. They diagnosed it and said it was the latch. Now get this, according to my extended warranty the actuator is covered but not the latch. When you replaced your actuator, how did you know it was the actuator and not the latch?? Thank you!!

You're not even showing what you're doing. You're going to put this here and put this there but you're not showing where your freaking putting it.

I have the same issue with my dodge caravan 2012 For how long i can use the cable? Thank you

one easy thing that could be tried before actually removing the head is to back off all the nuts and then re-torque them in sequence in a couple of stages...this might just re-seat the head gasket.

a compression test might indicate what cylinder is causing the problem...after the head is off, clean around the base of the studs really well and use a magnifying glass to check for possible cracks...with the studs in, any cracks have a better chance of being widened so you can see them...check very carefully around the stud between the number 2 and 3 exhaust valves...it's a common failure point (my engine is currently cracked at that location)....the excessive ticking sounds a lot like the valves just need to be adjusted....you can also crank the engine with one spark plug removed and see if water blows out...repeat for all 4 in succession...wear safety glasses as whatever is coming out of those cylinders is doing mach 2....fuel vapor and all it's inherent dangers will also be coming out...my guess is it's the head gasket.

Not sure if it would help but I’d disconnect that Vacuum Line from the Carb to the Distributor and plug it off. My 48 2A runs beautiful and I don’t have that..I know you have a strange Distributor in yours but maybe you’re sucking Fumes & Oil from the Crankcase? Worth a try before tearing the Head off again..also, the Throttle spring should be attached to a tab on the Carb Stud..couldn’t see if you just stuck the Spring under the carb mounting nut? Gotta torque that Carb down to around 30-35 ft lbs..You’re so Close!! Keep Going 👍 Good Luck 🎉

For future people watching the video. Stick the plugs / caps in the freezer for an hour. Use a small amount of dish soap to lube the housing. (don't lube the plugs / caps because the cold temperature will cause the soap to harden)

for next time....studs are not he same as bolts, you do not want to fully torque the studs into the bare deck without the head on...this will cause stress cracks and warping especially at the weaker center locations....make sure the threads in the deck as well as the studs are perfectly clean, use a thread chaser (never a tap or die as they will remove metal)..coat the stud threads in sealant and hand thread them into the block...if they won't quite go in hand tight then use vice grips with tape on the jaws to help...when the stud bottoms at the shoulder tighten just a little to seat them (5 - 10flbs)....place the gasket and head on, place hardened washers on each stud except the oil filter bracket....you need the washers to get the correct torque....then torque in stages...first around 20flbs...wait 6 hours, then 40 ftlbs...another 6 hours then final torque to 65...then wait overnight and re-torque 65 again....after you run the engine up to operating temperature for the first time, let it cool completely and then re-torque again....cheers

Nice

i believe there is a specific sequence required to un-torque in order to avoid warping the head...generally this is working from the inside center outwards.

Good

I got that same hose at O’Reilly Auto Parts. They stock random sizes in their back room. It cost me about $40 for upper and lower radiator hoses. Good luck!

Came across your channel today and I must say you are a resilient individual...This said I noticed a few videos ago, you were torquing the studs down to 65 lbs 😳 I hope you didn't, It's the nuts on top that are torqued. The studs are hand tighten , hardly more... I hate to rain on your parade but if this is the case, your block is probably multi cracked from over torqued studs Sorry man

Jay, I just picked up a 1946 CJ2A. Your videos have helped me out on a number of tasks to get her back on the road again. Thank you!

Are you getting spark

My CJ2a is missing the front support bracket for the starter. Where can I find a replacement?

When starting your Engine, try pumping the gas pedal 3-4 times and pull the choke out if it’s not warmed up yet. I’d put some tires on and drive it! Not far, but enough to get it to operating temperature. Something is wrong with that Temperature Gauge too…I don’t think you could put it in wrong lol. I have a 1948 CJ2A too. We’ve had it since new. I’m still working on it in my 70’s.. you’ll get there. It’s fun, right? 😂

That does look like a leaky head gasket, in such situation it's best to not have the thermostat on to help it not overheat but sadly it seems like it does need a rebuild, at least have the flat surfaces be decked.

I still think that even as it sits, with whatever is going on, that engine could drive you around the block. It's odd that your temperature gauge isn't working at all. After 30+ minutes running, it should be reading something. Unless you have a ton of air in the system somehow, that should be giving you a reading. Is the front end jacked up or on jack stands enough to allow the system to bleed air out? The whole situation is crazy with all that coolant smoke after all that. Do you have a compression tester to see if one cylinder has much lower PSI than the others? (indicating a crack in the cylinder/water jacket?) If you're running without a thermostat, I'd throw one in. It's relatively cheap.

It's difficult to imagine how that cover was removed given the number of tabs that hold it in place.

Good video, I appreciate the info. Just did the front lines on my M38 and I’m thinking I put the P/S S line in backwards due to the upper hose not allowing the snap clip to seat properly. Gonna double check it now. Thanks for taking the time to make the video.

Just thinking out loud here, not advising a course of action and maybe someone else will comment and correct my thinking, but if the head gasket really is still leaking, or if there's a crack in the block somewhere, that's not stopping you from at least taking the Jeep for a spin around the block to get a little satisfaction out of it. What's the worst that'll happen? Your oil will get all milky and you'll ruin the engine? If you have a crack in a cylinder or water jacket somewhere, you aren't really breaking it worse than it's already broken? And maybe putting a mile on it will give you something diagnostically significant? You could also do a compression test to see if one cylinder is lower, indicating a cracked cylinder wall?

Thank you for not including the music. Hope you got it running. More Videos?

I drive 2012 RE58 gen 3 honda crv. my AC have problem to chill when its +/-27°c or above outside. I replaced a leaking pipe from the compressor to the condenser. The ac connected to a machine for checking leaks under pressure, air pumping to make vacuum and filling with gas. Usualy the right side airout ac is cooler then the left side. (left side steering wheell) When i stop my car like in trafic light, and worse, in trafic jam the engin is runing and the ac stoped cooling and only ventilat. Agian - the right side airout somtims cooler. Please be advice what should i check/replace? Relay ? temperture sensor ? Somthing else? thank you & best regards

Thanks for all the advice... right neighborly with the help... Im ready to tackle this here...

Since you oil was mixing with your water or even if water was mixing with oil it would seem to be a bad leak so it would not be as effective.

Did you mean to say condenser or compressor? I believe you meant to say compressor.

The key to using water glass is so NOT use antifreeze while you’re pouring it in use distilled water only.. Then add the water glass then drain the system then wait at least 24 hrs before refilling with antifreeze.. ALSO remove the thermostat so you get good even flow and don’t ruin your thermostat.

Thanks for showing how difficult this is to do so I don't bother doing it. :) Especially after seeing how clean the filter was. With 25,000 miles on it I think my wife's 2016 Energi probably has less than 5,000 miles on the engine so I'll just let it ride for another 25,000. Plus it's garaged and never driven on dirt roads.

Where do you line up the TDC marks of the flywheel and the crank ? You didn't show it.

I thought you were supposed to drain the system, add only water. Then once warm add the stuff and run for 20 min. Then drain and flush system and add antifreeze.....that has worked for me.

My actuator arm is broken from the actuator and now i cant open my slider door cause its partially latch

HOW DID YOU OPEN YOUR SLIDING DOOR IF IT WAS LOCKED. THANK YOU

thank you stacks : really enjoy this as an avid Willys Jeep fan keep going 👊🔥 🪖

Great Video, what is the point of having that dumb plastic piece? The assembly is held in by the 3 bolts outside?🤙

I had watched a separate video of this from someone else and theirs wasnt as good. My problem is the other video said to take out the 4 -30mm that deals with window. I had the window taped up but after wtching yours it made more sense so what I did was take the tape off lower down window and frame til it sat on door bottom and took out screws. When it comes time to put back together since i hadnt had power to lower the window and just will have to push arm down to bolt up how will that affect the raise lower of window when it gets power.