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Do Metal stuff
Нидерланды
Добавлен 30 дек 2007
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Hi my name is Dominic, As a child I liked to make different things, now I make parts for all kinds of things from metal, as my day job. Here I found a shaper, I'm going to restore it. And put it into use to make things again. My dream is to add even more machines. To make even more stuff.
www.youtube.com/@DoMetalStuff?sub_confirmation=1
Hi my name is Dominic, As a child I liked to make different things, now I make parts for all kinds of things from metal, as my day job. Here I found a shaper, I'm going to restore it. And put it into use to make things again. My dream is to add even more machines. To make even more stuff.
Hand Scraping Straight Edges -3 Plate Method-
Hand Scraping Straight Edges -3 Plate Method-
Просмотров: 146
Видео
Turn an old washing machine motor into a polish wheel
Просмотров 582Месяц назад
Turn an old washing machine motor into a polish wheel
Three plate method, Question
Просмотров 686Месяц назад
Is my way of thinking right? Leave a message. or give your idea
Metal Scraping -Respond to viewers-
Просмотров 1,5 тыс.2 месяца назад
Metal Scraping -Respond to viewers-
Metal shaper - tools - Getting Ready for Hand Scraping
Просмотров 2,5 тыс.2 месяца назад
Metal shaper - tools - Getting Ready for Hand Scraping
I NEED YOUR HELP !! - and gifts and stickers -
Просмотров 3542 месяца назад
Do you have an idea for the problem? Please comment!!! RUclips Page Link: Rustinox : www.youtube.com/@Rustinox Hill Top Machine Works : www.youtube.com/@hilltopmachineworks2131
Metal shaper - The big move -
Просмотров 1142 месяца назад
It was a tough day, but it worked. A bit of pain but that will be fine.
Metal shaper - Preparing for a big move
Просмотров 1193 месяца назад
I'm surprised that no one ever said anything about all that stuff here and there, and because I want the shaper in a different place. I had to do this. I'm still not done this movie was made in 2 weekends and 3 evenings
Metal shaper testing Armstrong toolholder
Просмотров 5053 месяца назад
Testing Armstrong toolholder on machine vice.
Metal shaper - viewers choice tool holder for armstrong lookalike -part 2-
Просмотров 6803 месяца назад
Metal shaper - viewers choice tool holder for armstrong lookalike -part 2-
Metal shaper - viewers choice tool holder for armstrong lookalike
Просмотров 7714 месяца назад
Metal shaper - viewers choice tool holder for armstrong lookalike
Metal shaper Armstrong lookalike toolholder + go enter the poll
Просмотров 5424 месяца назад
Metal shaper Armstrong lookalike toolholder go enter the poll
Metal shaper testing the table and making a clapper
Просмотров 1805 месяцев назад
Metal shaper testing the table and making a clapper
Ai Hembrug Shaper - UPGRATE - HANDWHEEL - What's in de box - Exposition Technishow NL
Просмотров 1275 месяцев назад
Ai Hembrug Shaper - UPGRATE - HANDWHEEL - What's in de box - Exposition Technishow NL
Metal Shaper -special- Helping out Another AI Hembrug Owner
Просмотров 3615 месяцев назад
Metal Shaper -special- Helping out Another AI Hembrug Owner
Ai Hembrug Shaper restore part 15 - (Improving the Table)
Просмотров 4995 месяцев назад
Ai Hembrug Shaper restore part 15 - (Improving the Table)
Metal Shaper Restore part 14 - { Vernier vertical movement repair}
Просмотров 1916 месяцев назад
Metal Shaper Restore part 14 - { Vernier vertical movement repair}
Mitutoyo 513 204 - { Dial Test Indicator}- {DTI} Restore
Просмотров 1677 месяцев назад
Mitutoyo 513 204 - { Dial Test Indicator}- {DTI} Restore
Metal Shaper (owner) - Helping a Shaper owner
Просмотров 1,9 тыс.9 месяцев назад
Metal Shaper (owner) - Helping a Shaper owner
Metal Shaper - {part 2} Machining 'a' Precision angle block out of a piece of angle iron
Просмотров 5319 месяцев назад
Metal Shaper - {part 2} Machining 'a' Precision angle block out of a piece of angle iron
Metal Shaper - Machining 'a' Precision angle block out of a piece of angle iron
Просмотров 1,4 тыс.9 месяцев назад
Metal Shaper - Machining 'a' Precision angle block out of a piece of angle iron
metal shaper working on... What's in the box
Просмотров 51011 месяцев назад
metal shaper working on... What's in the box
Happy days bud 👍🏻
you can say that. Thanks bud 👍🏻
Your technique is improving! But, either it is due to camera angle or lighting I think you are still scraping the non blue areas. You will get it done it will just take a little longer. Keep at it, the results will be worth the effort. KOKO!
That is the camera angle and the light from outside that is very reflective. I am not yet completely convinced that I have a better technique. I do notice a difference in hardness between the material
If you put a "crown" on the belt mating surface of the pulleys, it will probably track better. Assuming the "pulleys" are aligned. I agree with bovines00 that a two belt system would get you the speed reduction you are looking for. I am am looking forward to the finished product. I like home made fixtures like the one you are making. KOKO!
That's right, I should have done that. and there will be another part when I have time. and worked it out in CAD so that I won't be surprised again.
I think you are almost there. If I had some experience I might be able to give you some constructive comments. But alas, I have a lot les experience than you. The only observation I have to make is maybe the strokes you are using are too long (see therealspixycat) and try not to scrape the low areas. TTFN I think in the end the effort and time spent will be worth it. KOKO!
was still practicing here, I think I was at it for 8 hours. the material I am scraping now is much tougher (videos are still to come. too much to do, too little time.) thanks for all the messages, gives me energy again👍🏻👍🏻
In the fullness of time, you'll get your shaper back online better than new. Just a suggestion look online for 4" or 6" diamond lapping disks. They aren't that bad on price and could easily be mounted on your polishing wheel. I used a 6" aluminum put about 4 neodymium magnets embedded in the aluminum an put a mandrel thru the center and mounted in in my mini lathe. the magnets held the disk in place rather nicely. The speed control of the lathe makes using it a breeze. Recently i bought a package of 4" lapping disks (600 1000, 1500, and 2000 grit) for about $30 USD. Good Luck! KOKO!
I also bought that diamond disc.😉 work nicely indeed
I like your impromptu grinder it seems to work very well. I would suggest a hole to lubricate the the clapper pivot. I am still experimenting with various cutters. So far the best shear tool I have made is a 5/16" HSS lathe tool sharpened with a 120 grit belt sander and a 600 grit diamond lapping disk to polish. There is no relief and neutral rake on the cutting edge. It gives me the smoothest edge of any tool I have tried so far. The biggest problem I have found with it is setting it accurately vertical in the holder. I mount in the lantern (no Armstrong Tool Holder). I found your channel about 2 months ago and since then I have watched almost all your videos, about 4 more to go. Thanks for the videos. KOKO!
tried it with slideway oil. when I convert it, but it starts to stick after standing still for a while. so I don't know what I should use then. It is very annoying when the HSS tool lands in the middle of the workpiece. and what you describe in terms of tool sounds interesting👍🏻
I have a problem with my SB 7" shaper table, just like the one you describe. I will try to follow your example and see if it will fix my little shaper. On my table there is a vertical rod at the bottom of the shaper that is about 7" long and protrudes through the bottom of the shaper. It moves left and right with the shaper an is supposed to keep the shaper from nodding down as the ram extends out over the table. But I am not sure it will correct a nod that is the result of a loose "gibb". thanks for the video! KOKO!
@@jamesreed6121 you could try with a dti . See what happens when you work on a piece of metal. once you have unscrewed that threaded part. If the table still moves then you may have some play there too. but as in my video, that connection is important. it should slide but still keep the table parallel
that is a very interesting tool you have made for the shaper. From what I see the surface finish isn't too bad. Can't wait to see the restore all dun! KOKO!
the shaper did a nice job. and I am still scraping that piece by hand
I am glad to see your boring bar held up and gave a nice finish. I have a similar sized bar, only used once so far
@@cyclebuster this was my 4th time using it. the only thing that happened is that the closing mechanism vibrated loose. by the impact of the keyway
Coffee, metal chips, and BBQ. Sounds like a good Saturday.
it certainly was tom
With just the right dose of coffee, things can't go wrong.
@@Rustinox for sure. The lathe needs power. I coffee
And you can rough it in with an angle grinder and later on go over to hand scraping
You can, but this surface is planed on the shaper
@@DoMetalStuff use cast iron: will make your life much much easier. Later when you've master it you can try steel
@@therealspixycat this stuf is cast
Are you sure that you use the right geometry of the cutting blade? Normally you scrape cast iron and you're scraping steel i guess. My impression is that you scrape very narrow area. Not sure but that is my impression
That's right, I now have one with a larger radius about R 100/120
Cool machine. Nice work!
@@TheDistur thank you👍🏻
It works! 👍
@@hilltopmachineworks2131 yes it does. and pretty good in my opinion
Nice lapping machine, I look forward to seeing more scraping.
@@user-qg9rr5fe8s they are coming.👍🏻
A technical question, what is this skill used for ?
@@petrichor649 you mean hand scraping? that is to make a flat guideway. it's not exactly as smooth as you may have seen. but if you look at the high points (blue) those are the contact points. the lower valleys are where the oil can lie. allowing better lubrication. hope this answers your question😉
@@DoMetalStuff it does and it appears quite difficult. Thanks man
@@petrichor649 Hand scraping itself is not difficult. understanding what you see with blueing is. and it must also be of equal height over both guideways. That's why I'm practicing on this part first and will start on my shaper later this year
I have ordered a scraping tool, so these classes are very worthwhile and relevant.
@@user-qg9rr5fe8s nice to read👍🏻. hope you can learn something from it😉. and have fun with your scraping project
@@DoMetalStuff My new shaper is an Australian made Douglas 10.5" shaper. I am currently making a new die block, sleeve and bolt to stop rattling. Then I will start the measurements, which will take me to scraping. I am a new'ish machinist, so my progress is slow as.
@@user-qg9rr5fe8s That's nice, another shaper that will last for years to come. Hand scraping is also new to me and I do this slowly. You have to learn to walk before you can run. (was often said to me) when I started with a CNC lathe. Tip: If you are going to measure, make sure you have several DTIs so that you can see whether the values are correct. If you see a difference, one of the DTIs is no longer good😉
Dominic, I agree with jambusspeakermouse1325 and MarkATrombley about scraping the narrow side(s) so that you have the full "thickness" of the bars to minimize their bending when they are not fully supported. Also, jambusspeakermouse1325's recommendation about using wooden handles is important too. Even the large camelback straight edges of 3-4-feet (0.91-1.22-m) length have wooden, Bakelite, or plastic handles to prevent body heat from causing them to bend/warp.
@@bobvines00 Thank you for your response. I'll first have to figure out how I can normalize this material. big camp fire👍🏻🤣
Narrower. I'm doing the exact thing myself. If you use the wider surface it will just warp and won't be as stable. By the way, cold rolled isn't the best for this as it has more internal stresses. Hot rolled cools down slowly which allows it to normalise. Obviously the best material would be cast iron but i don't have the money for that. I would recommend making some wooden handles if you want them very accurate. That will help handling but will also stop your body heat distorting them. Doesn't sound like it would be an issue but i definitely noticed it with mine after hours of scraping. Something else i noticed was that room temperature impacted them as well and on very hot days they would have different marking patterns. You may want to start off with lapping compound as scraping steel is hard work. Best of luck!
@@jambusspeakermouse1325 hey thanks for your information. this material is s355 or s255. I thought that scraping by hand would not cause much stress because this operation does not release much heat. it's true what you say about hot rolled. but I could get this. I can find out how to release tension. and wooden handles is definitely a good idea. The biggest problem is my single stone wall in my shed and roof without insulation.
@@DoMetalStuff I would do the same thing, but then why not scrape the wider side too? It would give you the opportunity to also blue the way with it, and if you know it is straight in the longitudinal direction, it can help you dtermine wether you are doing a good job in the cross direction. As to the wooden handles: It's not to difficult, so just make them. I once made a small straight edge too, also made a wooden handle, I think from some oak, but if I snug up the screws which hold the handle, the straight edge warps, even so it only has two patches of contact maybe 20mm long. Well, the straight edge is similar to your size, it is cast iron 25mm by 60mm and has a 45° angle on one edge. It's not perfect, but it's better then no straight edge. If temperature really is a problem, we also would need to always keep the machines at 20° or else they will warp. I dont think we need to go for that sort of precision (at least I know I can't). I only bought my long straight edge a year ago or so, can't say how flat it really is, my surface plate is only 400/400mm, but I get consistent results if I turn it 180°, so I think it's not too bad. Still, I should test it on the diagonal of the surface plate, even if that's only about 580mm, if it's concave or convex I should find out.
@@etbuilds6006 wooden or plastic handles are coming. I first have to see if I can normalize this material. If that works, I will continue with it. and then I'm just going to do the narrow part. (15mm). When I do the wide part, the narrow part is immediately deformed.
Nice work, making something from nothing! It may be turning a little fast, but if the disk is running true, I think it will work ok. Cheers!
@@etbuilds6006 hey, on the video it does seem to go fast, but it's not that bad. and that disc still needs to be straightened out a bit, it wobbles a little bit.
I would do the narrower side, the bar will be stiffer in that direction.
@@MarkATrombley hey mark. thanks for the confirmation. sometimes you have doubts when you start doing something new. at least I had👍🏻
I’m not really qualified to answer but I would scrape the the narrow sides and would not scrape the larger flats unless I need that side flat. Sometimes we can make improvements without doing things the very best way.
Dominic, this looks like an interesting project! If the large disc ends up turning too fast, you may need to bolt/screw a smaller disc onto its side and use a second belt to drive a 2nd large disc which could hold your yet-to-be-received lapping discs. That would allow you to get a much slower RPM for lapping/grinding your scraping inserts. The "slow" grinders that I've seen for things like sharpening wood chisels turn much slower than your existing large disc. If your belt slips too much on the motor's shaft, you'll probably need to increase the OD of the "pulley" that you are using right now. Also, if you are willing to show your viewers what tools, tooling, materials, etc., that you have, one or more of us may be able to recommend a way to use what you've already got to make a tool, do something easier, etc.
@@bobvines00 hey bob, thanks for your tips. and yes, maybe I could have shown some more materials. will try to remember👍🏻
Looks like you have a good working idea. 👍
@@hilltopmachineworks2131 thanks Tom. Hope so 🤣
I think making a new lantern post to hold the tool holder is the easiest and most practical. I have done that on my SB 7" and it works pretty good. I look forward to seeing what solution you choose! KOKO! (Keep On, Keepin On)
@@jamesreed6121 that video is already done. you will probably be surprised. Have fun watching one of the next episodes
I vote for gray. My favorite is "Rustoleum Smoke Gray"". KOKO!
I will be getting a new (to me) shaper in the next few days. Watched all of your videos over the weekend, and greatly enjoyed them. 😋
@@user-qg9rr5fe8s nice👍🏻, have fun with it. if you have any questions feel free to ask😉
@@DoMetalStuff I like your channels focus on measuring the accuracy of your shaper and its restoration. I will be making similar measurements on my shaper. 😋 Great channel.
@@user-qg9rr5fe8s thanks man. it does take time. but I hope the result is great at the end. and learn from my mistakes then you know how not to make them🤣
At about 26:00 you forgot to stone the workpiece before rubbing the straightedge on it. But it didn't seem to matter because after scraping from both directions you appear to have gotten a much better pattern of blue high spots. Is your stone ground to be truly flat, i.e., a "precision ground flat stone" according to some other RUclips channels that sometimes show scraping? I've never tried my hand at scraping, but did buy a hand scraper (much shorter than yours is) to try scraping one day. I *think* Stephan used(?) to sell them, but I'm not sure. Since you work in a Machine Shop, perhaps you could use a surface grinder to grind both sides of your stone during your lunch break? Thumbs up!
hey bob, i know i'm a bit absent-minded sometimes. so I went back to look at minute 22:00 and you can see that I am using my whetstone. and indeed I have to grind it flat again. but then you actually need a set of 2. I only have 1. maybe not quite the best. but for scraping practice. I can live with it. But thanks anyway, I'll put it on my to-order list right away
If you can find 3 pieces of iron to make some flats with i recommend doing that first. 3 plate method except use maybe 700mm x 50mm if you have them. Then you compare a to b, b to c, c to a etc as you follow the method. Then you have a surface to use that you can trust. From there i would use that surface you made to check the machine base where the ram sits. Be careful and do this. Color your 3 plate surface. Put down on base way. If there is blue in the middle it is probably convex. Next clean surface just tested and do again. This time applying down pressure on the edge of one side. There shouldnt be blue on the other side. Do the same with the back. Make sure to understand the initial as is condition of the surface. Convex is harder to read than concave. Then pick a surface area to leave alone and slowly work your way. The ram has an adjustment to feed the tool down. You can use an indicator in that and feed down the vertical walls to check perpendicular at that pont. Sure not correct but good enough. I would tread lightly on the scraping. It shouldnt be out too much as hobby machines shouldnt be completely worn out. The riskyou face with a smaller than surface flat is you cannot tell the correct profile. Practice with 3 plates first. They will self check flatness to each other.
hey first thanks for this information. I could do that. but that will take a long time. and what do you use as an abrasive? I actually wanted to grind my ram flat this weekend. and use that as a reference. (that has some delay). That should be possible or am I looking at it wrong
@@DoMetalStuff you scrape in the plates
@@AlmostMachining which material is best. we don't have long pieces of cast iron. at my work.
@@DoMetalStuff steel is okay but hard to scrape. You are just wanting to make some straight edges to use. They dont have to be very long. Aluminum could be fastened to the steel then scrape in the aluminum but they tend to change with temperature and wear.
@@AlmostMachining we have enough of that lying around. but would it be better if a perpendicular back was welded on? or angle iron? the same stuff I made my table for the shaper from. or reduce it from 140x140 to 40x40 mm and 600 long
I think you are doing very nicely! In the beginning I thought your cuts were not deep enough, I did not see any nice chips, but in the close-up around min 38, you are doing great. The pattern also looks realy nice. As for the gauges: I would not worry to much, these are deep spots, they will never contact anything. Congratulation on your subscribers rise. I got a sudden rise in views from my last video, but no subscribers. Maybe another day!?! cheers Erich!
@@etbuilds6006 hey E.T. It takes some getting used to how to hold your scraper steel. and how hard should I press. I did realize that my scraper is a bit too long. and as far as subscribers are concerned, they will come automatically if you manage to touch their interest👍🏻just keep uploading
@@DoMetalStuff I really did not want to sound whining. I'm ok with 200+ views., Your scraper looks to be aprox. the length of mine, what did help me a lot was taking away about half of the shaft's strength to make it mor elastic. If I apply force, it bends a little bit.
@@etbuilds6006I made it a bit shorter and thinner. that works better. You didn't come across as whining.😉
Is it steel or cast iron? Ideally you want to scrape cast iron. Scraping steel is very tricky
@@therealspixycat what you saw in this video is cast iron. I don't remember the exact material number anymore. it was a round disk from which I also made the 2 small camel backs. I haven't scraped plain steel yet. I think it is a bit tougher and more sticky.
@DoMetalStuff it seems like you make more like stripes instead of moon shape scrapes. Test the material using a disk grinder and check the sparks?
@@therealspixycat if you want to get moon shape you have to use a different technique.
From ergonomic point of view, your table seems to be too low. You obviously have to lean into your workpiece and you have a precision task at hand. Ergonomics translate into precision.
@@tuoppi42 You are right, the table is indeed too low. and my scraper handle is too long. I still have to change that.
i am enjoying your videos..
@@sodium.carbide that's nice to read. Thank you👍🏻
👍👍
130 subs+ in one week! That's a lot. Good news it is :)
@@Rustinox hey michel, yes really. I still can't believe it either. I am very happy with it. so everyone who reads this is welcome. and thank you again Michel
Scraping takes a lifetime to master. 👍🏴
@@alasdairhamilton1574 hope not. It doesn't have to be very pretty for me, as long as it works reasonably well, I'm happy😅
Nice Maker's Mark branding iron! I know I'm watching this video 8 months after you posted it, but I'll make a recommendation that you may still see. To keep moisture in the wood from corroding your camel-backs and test indicator/height gauge, I recommend that you obtain some pieces of Volatile Corrosion Inhibitor (VHI) paper to line your boxes. The paper is coated with a chemical that evaporates(?) and fills the box(es) with the VCI vapor, preventing corrosion. There are different types of VCI paper, but I've seen it work extremely well before. Since the VCI paper basically emits an anti-corrosion vapor, the lids need to be kept closed so that the vapor doesn't blow away. Also, if you do get some VCI paper, comply with the warnings most likely printed on the non-VCI-chemical-coated side that warns to ensure that you wash your hands if you touch it, especially before eating (and probably before wiping your eyes, etc., with contaminated hands. Soap & water will remove it from your hands. Perhaps the Machine Shop where you work uses VCI paper to protect materials and/or products/jobs from corrosion and they'll allow you to get enough to line your boxes?
@@bobvines00 hey bob this is a comment I hadn't thought about. thanks for this. 👍🏻and no, we don't use that paper. we oil everything. I can spray my wooden boxes with clear varnish. then moisture no longer comes out of the wood. and usually those boxes are in the house. there it is a bit better in terms of moisture.
Dominic, the video shows the table/knee deflecting downward during each cut. I *assume* that your machine cut a taper in the bottom of the space between each tooth. If so, you may have reinstalled the ratchet gear 180° from how it was when you initially cut the teeth nd that may be why the tool would not line up in between the teeth. Some shapers have a rigid support for the table to minimize or prevent the table deflecting -- perhaps you can make something like that?
@@bobvines00 That's right, you saw that correctly. but my setup is a bit off. it leaned towards the cutting direction. and even then I did indeed have a height difference. but it doesn't matter for the ratchet gear
Dominic, did you find any manuals to help you with your shaper? Thumbs up & subscribed! ;)
@@bobvines00 hey bob. I do have something. but I don't believe what I have is the whole manual. rostinox sent me. from memory 8 pages. And tanks for the sub 👍🏻
Nice job, very good explanation
thanks. I have to look back, I couldn't remember what I had done😅
That shaper is going to scrap, if you scrape it. Leave it alone, practice on something else and gather knowledge and tools to get the job done.
How do you think I'm going to take my shaper to the scrapyard? I disagree. so please explain more than
@@DoMetalStuff I watched your videos on scraping, you have no idea what you are doing. My advice is to leave the shaper the way it is and practice on something else until you have some idea of what you are doing.
@@CastIronMachine Maybe you get the idea that I don't fully understand it. and that might well be the case. I'm practicing on a piece of cast iron. it is also a learning process for me. but I don't learn anything from your response. so please give some info.
@@DoMetalStuff I just did, you are not ready to scrape a machine, that is very useful information. You might get offended but it is the truth. Buy a proper scraper, it's not that expensive, buy a surface plate, buy a straight edge, practice on scrap cast iron, learn more. The information is available and you can learn it but don't hurry, this takes time and practice.
@@CastIronMachineI don't feel offended. but your first 2 responses don't help anyone anyway. I think it's a bit of a shame to buy a surface plate and a straight edge just for this project. those things are very expensive here in the Netherlands. is my flat ground piece of metal not good enough? but like I said, I'm still practicing and I'm not just starting with my shaper.
Sent over from Rustinox.👍🏴
welcome, hope you enjoy yourself with my videos
Hello, Rusti sent me. I’m looking forward to your entire shaper series. Subscribed 👍
Nice and welcome, there is already quite a lot to see and much more to come. hope you enjoy yourself with my videos👍
Same here.
Hi, Rusty sent me, just subbed Cheers
nice en welkom, hoop dat je je vermaakt met mijn videos
The nylon (or teflon?) block in the upper pivot in an original part. Over the years it swells up a bit and just needs some polishing with sand paper to give it a loose sliding fit. (and no play) Replacing it with bearing brons is not a good idea because there is no access to lugricate it.
Thats a good point, Rusty! How come you watching a video about "primitive" work, I thought you despise filing and scraping!? :)
By the way, I love your attitude and your videos too, looking forward to tomorrow!
hey michel. I didn't expect that to be original. and yes plastic swells. I knew that. that's why I thought it wasn't original. but thanks for your information.👍🏻
he always checks on me. he helped me a lot with the shaper.
Me to
I don't have any advice to give, since I haven't done any scraping.
@@hilltopmachineworks2131 No problem Tom. There must be someone who can do that... I hope so
@@DoMetalStuff I will reach out to Kyle.
I am open to any information. be my guest
One thing I noticed: I think the radius of your scraper blade is much to small. The cuts you are making are really tiny. I'm reaaly no expert in scraping, like you I learned by just doing it, afer watching RUclips-University (Keith Rucker and Richard King ...). That said, for roughing in, I use a radius of 40-60mm and quite heavy force, so I really take of some chips, not only dust. for finishing 30mm radius seems to work good, using a more elastic scraper shaft, which seems to reduce chatter. Cheers Erich
it's true the radius is quite small. the grinder at my work is not made for this job. but I can practice
You can only scrape a surface flat when you have a reference surface that is bigger then the surface you are going to attack. The first method with small reference is I think wrong because that flat part is able to rotate or twits without you knowing.
@@therealspixycat so you're saying my straight edge is too short? can you explain more about that? I thought it would be possible, I cover more than 75% of my RAM surface
@DoMetalStuff yes: straight edge must cover at least the full length and secondly the straight edge must cover both surfaces (left and right) so you need a large surface plate for this. You need a surface plate to get both sides in one plane. Just image that it is one solid piece: it has to be perfectly flat to rub eventually back and forth without binding and without any play. Wat ik bedoel dat je in feite een grote rechthoek perfect in een rechthoekige opening moet zien te krijgen en dat die rechthoek zonder dat hij vast loopt omdat vlakken niet perfect parallel lopen of dat er speling ontstaat. Dit is behoorlijk behoorlijk lees bijzonder lastig. Ik hoop dat je het een beetje snapt
I think you are right here, to have a bigger surface as a reference would be ideal, BUT: I dont think he is aiming for perfect precision, he is just trying to improve his tool. That can be done even with measurement methods wich are far from ideal. If you hinge the straight edge on your part and you know the first half is flat, then move your straight edge half the legth of it and hinge it again, you can get your part pretty flat, not perfect, build what i consider good enough (if it's better than before. cheers!
@etbuilds6006 well that isto be seen: for the same token you make it worse because you don't and didn't fully understand the concept possibly destroying the shaper. Oke you gained a lot of experience but it is sad to possibly destroy a nice little shaper. O do have the exact same Ai machine
@@therealspixycat My ram is first ground flat, I have found someone. where I can do this. and I will also grind the round disc flat, but that will take another 2 weeks.
Cool, I remember seeing plans for the alignment tool probably 40 years ago. It looked a lot more complicated as a bunch of drawings, seeing an assembled tool makes it look a lot simpler. I guess you had to make all the parts to see how it fitted.
hi, that's nice to read. I will tell you. I managed to find more documents of different models and saw a number of videos. and mine is a bit of a copy of watch wes work. I thought the adjustable legs with the hard bushings were a great idea. For the rest I thought it out myself with the materials I could use: 20mm centerless ground round. were left over from an assignment. and of course the connecting pieces too. You can get by without drawings but with pictures😉
Funny, just 3 months ago, I made a very similar version for scraping in the bed of my Colchester triumph. I'm not yet done (with the scraping (taking off nearly 1mm)) but the tool is a charm!
That's great, man. Have you found any disadvantages in the tool? I just want to make another part to hold my dti
@@DoMetalStuff I have used only my precision level up to now, will make a dti-holder too. As you ca see in my video, I made an adjustable platform for my level in 2 axes.
i reply add your video
Very nice work sir
thank you sir