Видео

Thank you so much!

Nope, I just used a regular straight stitch. But, since it is a bulkier fabric, I suggest using a slightly longer stitch length like a 3 or 3.5. Test it out on scrap fabric first.

You're welcome! I love putting hidden pockets into my clothing :) It saves my shoulder from wearing a heavy purse.

Yes, you should stay stitch, especially the neckline, armholes and any curved areas.

Hello. Where are your slanted pulling lines located? Pulling lines typically indicate something is too tight. Look for the origin of those pull lines at the side seam or armhole seam. Then, widen that specific area (0.25" or 0.5cm increments).

You're welcome!

Yes, the sewing and patternmaking (basic block alteration) steps should be the same for both male and female with the following exceptions: The men's basic bodice block won't have chest and waist darts. It will have armholes, shoulders and possibly neckline darts incorporated into the back yolk. The back armhole will also be much longer. The sleeve placket is generally a little taller for a men's shirt and the front facings are generally a little wider.

@@FECT-p3w They are embroidered cherries :)

I left one shoulder seam and one side seam unsewn, then I used clips to hold those seams in place after I got into the prototype. That horizontal line I pinched out on the back waist was just to show that I had extra fabric there. To resolve that, you need to widen the width of the two back waist darts at the waist line. You can use clips to temporarily increase that width while you're wearing the prototype to see if that helps. Or you can use a basting stitch to extend the width, then retry the prototype. A more advanced technique is to have two different widths for the waist dart, the widest width at the waist line (e.g., 1.5"), tapering to a smaller width (e.g., 0.75") about 2" below the waist line (the exact position will vary per person), before tapering to the dart point at the hip line. Hope this helps!

​@@dreamsical.designswow! Thanks! You're amazing 😮

@@dreamsical.designs thank you. great detailed reply. you're amazing!

Thank you!

The walking foot helps move the top layer of fabric through at the same time as the bottom layer. If you don't have a walking foot, I recommend hand basting the two layers together first which would help prevent shifting during sewing on the machine. Also, using an object to flatten the fabric just before it goes under the sewing foot can help too.

You are so welcome!

Inches, but I included the cm equivalents in brackets

Such kind words, thank you!

You're so welcome! I'm happy to hear that it was helpful :)

You're welcome!

I'm so happy to hear that this was helpful, you are welcome!

Yes, cotton will work well for this project. If you wanted less bulky pleats, you can use a single layer of fabric, just make sure to finish the raw edges beforehand.

@dreamsical.designs okie dokie thanks dear very much, I will definitely do that thanks again 😊

Hello, the center back should be a little lower than the center front, because the back curves inwards (front tummy curves outwards), so less fabric is needed.

Hello, after you've drafted your sleeve pattern, you need to true it. The length between the bicep to elbow, and elbow to wrist on the front and back side seams should be the same. If one side is longer than the other, you'll need to either add/subtract length away to make both sides the same length. In doing this, you may need to change the angle or curvature of the sleeve sides to match or even create an offset in the location of the elbow / wrist point on the front / back. Also, when you're fitting a sleeve prototype, you may find that the bicep, elbow and/or wrist lines aren't parallel to the floor. You can use a fabric marker to draw what the lines should be and then transfer this change to your pattern. When you do this, you'll see that these horizontal lines are no longer at 180o, but will be curved. I hope this helps!

Thank you, happy to hear this has been helpful! There is a difference for the men's block (stretch). The men's back armscye length should be longer than the front armscye length. You'll need to trace both the front and back of the top and sleeve separately. You can skip the vertical measurement verification for the armhole. The rest should be the same :)

@@dreamsical.designs Thank you so much!!

You are so welcome!

Glad it was helpful!

Thank you for the feedback! I've made some improvements to the sound system in my recent videos :)

I'm so happy to hear that this video was helpful!

Hello, I have a video on how to draft a basic bodice block from your body measurements, in inches, for non-stretch fabric (ruclips.net/video/5DtVs-HYemo/видео.html). You can follow the same video for drafting a basic bodice block for stretch fabric, just do not add the waist dart. I don’t yet have a video on how to draft a basic sleeve block, but it is on my to do list :)

Thank you, I'm so happy to hear that they've been helpful!