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@joeheflin5503 glad you found something useful from this 🙏

@jonathandeleon5588 Actually, I wasn't getting any codes when I plugged in and counted the flashes. Unfortunately I don't have a obd1 scanner and no shop or parts store had one either. So I just used the paper clip method to count flashes.

@@NotAGarage damn. I got a 99 Silverado that got cammed and tuned now it’s throwing the TPS code I replaced it and still throwing the code and driving kinda ass

@robertfatherree5574 long story short, i ended up making a video of what the issue was. I checked my fuel pressure at the rail and it was like 15. What this issue ended up being was that -- the little hose that connects the pump to the feed line inside the tank was rotted and split in several places. So in essence the fuel was spraying out back into the tank before it could actually reach through the hard line.

@datruth9850 i know. 😆 You're right. This was easier for people to find and this will show up more in searches labeled like above. I'm trying to gain views and subs. I can change it. Did you know GM created the whole turn signal/wiper controls/high beam all in one unit? Appreciate your feedback 🙏

​@NotAGarage yes sir. I have an 86 IROC, with a wiper issue. That's why I'm here. 😂 keeps blowing my wiper fuse as soon as I turn on the wipers. But if I disconnect the 4 pin connector at the wiper assembly, I can operate only on High. Has me scratching my head.

@datruth9850 can you operate low and high? If so that's just the timing mechanism inside the motor. I've changed those out before. Blowing a fuse? Maybe it's a ground issue

​@@NotAGarage So I figured out why I was blowing my wiper fuse. The Wiper Switch was bad. I swapped it out with a new GM one and bingo. Everything works now. Lol

@darrenroth6250 Well, I had to have the VATs bypassed because the engine and harness were a year(1992)that was equipped factory with VATs. Although my car didn't have the security feature, I did have to bypass it on the resistor. It did start up after I did that. But more problems came that had to be issued I wasn't aware of at that time. As far as the intake manifold, all the bolts are the same depth length. I pulled all the bolts to check. Now if they gave me a wrong bolt for whatever reason I don't know. I could pull all the intake manifold bolts out of my other car that has TPI and check those, but I haven't yet. I appreciate your comment and sharing some knowledge🙏

@Dzzzzt it ran rough, idled rough, it wouldn't stumble, but it would almost hesitate with everything. Like a sluggish spark it couldn't reach. It wouldn't start as easy or when it was warm sometimes. I'd give it a few seconds, then crank some more, and it would start. Pretty much all the symptoms of bad spark. I was chasing it down and replacing everything, and then I just decided to do the pickup coil because I hadn't yet. And it resolved everything.

@koltongrandy6236 dude, they are outrageous on parts too. You can find guys parting out 4th gens on Facebook marketplace selling parts for $1-$20 a part. I hope you got everything you ordered and paid for though 🙏

@@NotAGarage I wish market place had what I needed but I’m in the middle of no where Canada😂

@koltongrandy6236 what are you looking for? The only 4th gen plant was in Canada. There's a huge f-body yard up there. I want to get a passport to visit Canada and the yard. Hell if it's something small you're looking for I might have it, or I can find it next month

@@NotAGarage yeh it’s some guy in calagary I’m no where near him, sadly Canadian is fucking huge

@koltongrandy6236 oh ok. Have you tried looking on Marketplace around Michigan in the US? That's close to Canada and alot of the time, sellers will ship internationally at your expense, epecially that close.

@Misoandfriends he's not playable on Friday The 13th. You can find this easter egg after completing the Virtual Cabin mode on the game. It was supposed to be a tease for a future DLC. But that never got released. Something about the developers getting sued by the creators or license owners of Friday The 13th, so they never released the DLC.

@mgpchannel9479 yes. It's back in the car now. I have so many videos i have to finish and upload about my Camaro. I have time off work next month. I plan on having at least 12 long videos done and edited to start pumping out.

@@NotAGarage cool. , I’m currently doing the same thing your doing , I’m leaving the trans inside the car , it’s just a matter of removing the bell housing bolts all around

Unfortunately, this conversation Express doesn't have the rear economy controls. I do have a fan speed for the rear. But it doesn't have a separate blower motor. I can try and find and do a video. Give a two days and I'll see if the van has it

This was a out dated phone from 2006 i recorded in January of 2010 so the quality isn't very good

😆😆😆

Yes sir. Way ahead of you. I actually got a 5.3 i tore the top end down to do a gasket change and drop in a month or so. This was a older video. I actually got a GM 400, bored over to 418, put Pontiac 455 pistons in it, mild cam for a TPI ecu, rebuilt ported heads with 2.02 intake valves, 26lb injectors, cold air, headers, etc. I did that build a few years ago. It's what currently lives in this Trans Am. I'll be pulling it and doing videos on the 5.3 swap. I did a LS1 in a 86 Trans Am back in 2007. I drove it for years. So it'll be fun to do this swap again. I hope you watch along 💪

Yeah this is an old video. I try to explain as much as possible in the descriptions. So this was a 4 bolt main 5.7 when i removed it. Funny how all these revivals and driving cars are popular now. This Trans Am sat for 8 and half year when I bought it. I literally changed the fuel pump and drove it 430 miles home. Brakes were burning and smoking. Even the 88 Firebird of mine I am constantly working on in videos sat for years before I also bought it site unseen and drove it almost 400 miles home. So this Trans Am, I replaced all the brakes and did other minor replacements, and drove it for a few months. Then the motor starting knocking. It was a rod bearing spun on the connection rod cap. I don't remember what cylinder, but that's kind of irrelevant. It destroyed the crankshaft. That's probably obvious though lol... I built a 400(gm) to a 418c.i. I have Pontiac 455 pistons installed. I put a mild cam for a TPI ecu setup. I had the heads built with 2.02 intake valves and ported. I did other small things like headers, 26lb injectors, cold air intake, etc. That's what I built, and is currently in the car right now. I plan on pulling the drivetrain and installing the 5.3 i tore down. I'm trying to pump out all these videos I have, or haven't finished, so I can start on this Trans Am project videos and the Camaro videos finished up. I got alot to work on and get done this summer. So I want all the smaller type videos of replacing parts done so I can focus on the bigger projects and videos to try and gain subscribers and views.

@@NotAGarage Those annoying "shorts" videos really help to acquire subs.😎👍

​@itseithergonnaworkoritaint7852 yeah they do lol but man i just don't know what to make as a short. I actually have shorts blocked on my RUclips 😆

@@NotAGarage You can do a teaser of the video you're going to upload or parts of your videos where you say something interesting but cut it off before you say the answer and splice in at the end, "make sure to subscribe to find out" or something like that.🤷 Shorts aren't rocket science to make unless of coarse it's about rocket science.😁 You can do it.😎👍

Well I didn't have a driven gear to install on the vehicle speed sensor so it still doesn't work. I need the driven gear to be driven by the output shafts drive gear. I did order(what I think) is my correct driven gear teeth count off of eBay. But I really wasn't expecting there to not even be one on the older style VSS when I removed it... so maybe when it arrives, I'll remove the VSS again, install the driven gear, then do a drive and show the speedometer working again lol

It's been a number of things. Vacuum leaks and parts failing. But i do drive it daily. Well.... until it gives me a new issue which is a very often occurrence lol

@@NotAGarage Yeah it sucks going through all that and your limited on driving it, you can't even take it to a car show driving the car. You want to make sure that thing is dependable, I had a IROC-Z once kept blowing out that cheap 700R4 transmission, put in a durable Turbo 350, well the A/C stopped working because the transmission needed vacuum, the speedometer didn't work because it was signal, the Turbo 350 was Mechanical, I washed under the hood blew out the Throttle sensor, after spending about $500.00 a month into it, I got rid of the junk, now I would only get a 82-84 Camaro and put the IROC-Z body panels on it. Sometimes it's not worth the Stress and Aggravation. Out thanks for posting the video it's different and also the headaches you've gone through it etc

No. That's the shield. It's just covering the wires. It isn't necessarily tape, but it does look like it. It'll get frale and deteriorate over time. A better product will use better heat resistance materials(more than likely). You should be able to see in this video the pickup coil I removed and install, both have the shield material that looks like tape. The old part I removed had very cheap materials.... not the new part was the best either lol

@@NotAGarage Your tape has like fiberglass,mine is literally paper tape. They do the same thing on pickup coils in electric guitars,it makes sense though. Thank you!

@@NotAGarage I was thinking about doing an HEI system since mine is an '87 but I myself don't have the money to do so I just replace what it needs for now. Just to get it running again,mine is carb since it last year for that and these cars have so many wires and sensors it's kinda intimidating. Mine was put on the back burner for a while,everythign was replace don the ignition,so hopefully it will have spark because I tested it after all that work and nothing,the pickup coil has to be the part to make it come alive.

@@NotAGarage It's like you dont wanna touch these cars because your afraid if yout ocuh something it's gonna break,there's just too many thing that it needs to make it run. You look under the hood and it scares you. I think many of these car have this very same issue, which is why so many sit,either that or the carb is messed up,from water getting in and rusting.

@soupflood Well, yours sounds more like it's starving for fuel. But!! Then you say it misfires and bogs down.... if yours is fuel injected, I encountered a similar issue. After replacing everything, it ended up being the hose inside the tank that attaches the fuel pump to the feed line on the sending unit. It was dry rotted, and fuel was spraying through in cracks. I have a video on that as well. Now, what led me to believe it was the pickup coil was a number of things. I replaced everything. The plugs, wires, a rotor button x2, distributor cap x2, icm x2, reset the timing, etc etc etc etc the list goes on. My motor was misfiring and stumbling on it's self. Sometimes, it wouldn't start at all. It ran rough as hell, especially in the rain or around any moisture. Sometimes, it would shut off or act like it only had 4 cylinders. Unfortunately, it wasn't ever clearly just one clear issue to diagnose with troubleshooting. So I can't point in the correct direction. A lot of what you're going through sounds kind of the same. Not all, though. The engine was hard to increase the acceleration. Sometimes, It would pop, or you could floor it, and it was a struggle to get to 3k on the tachometer. I knew it was the only possible thing I hadn't replaced. I even pulled all the plugs and checked them again. I replaced the spark plug wires again to see if it made a difference, and it did not. Even though it was a new distributor with less than 3 thousand miles, I knew it was a cheap product when I bought it. And it was the only possible part that was left to change. Going by what I've gone through previously on other cars(Camaros and Firebirds specifically), I remembered encountering this problem before. Luckily I findly won, and I resolved all the problems. Well.... those problems... lol, I still have a lot others on this motor. The pickup coil is a very cheap part. And it's a very easy job. I did this in less than 30 minutes before I went to work. I hope some of this information helps you in some way. Let me know if you find it!

@@NotAGarage i uploaded the video of how it behaves on my channel if you're curious.

@@NotAGarage i visually inspected the pump hose inside the tank and looks okay, does have fine cracks but not the kind that would go all through it. Even replaced it with a bit of a known good hose used for propane gas tanks, no change. Replaced fuel filter, no change. Replacing spark plugs and wires raised the reached RPM a bit. The computer the engine uses is an Arduino, so I can modify most parameters at will. If I double the amount of gasoline the injectors release for all RPMs after 2k, the engine will rev over 3k sometimes, though it will still bog and misfire around 2.5 - 3k. I was recommended to check the fuel pressure first, but a new fuel pump is cheaper than the fuel pressure gauge. What I want to replace is exactly the fuel pump, guess I should fire up that parts cannon already.

@soupflood yeah it doesn't sound a misfire. It's not at operating fuel pressure. It sounds it's idling healthy from what I could hear. I didn't know you had the 4.3. Your TBI might need to be taken apart and cleaned. Maybe replace the injectors? Like i said, it sounds like a fuel issue. I can't hear it struggling at any rpm from the video. It I would think the hose in the tank was damaged or the fuel pump screen, but you replaced those. Maybe plug in a fuel pressure gauge and see what it's operating at and under a load. You could do a simple test by letting it warm up, unplug one of the fuel injectors and see if there is any difference. Then try the other injector. That might push you in the right direction. Have you adjusted the timing??? I saw your cap off. Maybe you rotated the distributor too far retarded and it is struggling. But it doesn't sound too much like a misfire. But if your timing was bumped that would cause trouble to accelerate

@@NotAGarage Idling is what this engine does best ever since I got it to run... It's a 3.1L V6, not a 4.3 though. The TBI is clean enough, the injectors seem to spray okay, it's not really the ideal fine mist but then again, it idles okay and that's when the spray needs to be at its finest, right? I visually inspected their screens and they look clean (don't know if there are more screens on the inside though, or if the pintle is blocked). Disconnecting any of the two injectors will immediately cause the engine's RPM to drop harshly (maybe to 500-600RPM not sure but the engine sounds like it wants to die). I took apart the fuel pressure regulator and tried screwing more and even releasing more the spring which presses on the diaphragm, with no change. The timing I set on the Arduino is 40° (I tried less and even more but this works best), but I'm not sure what is the real timing on the distributor. The Arduino subtracts degrees from the total timing of the distributor according to MAP readings and RPM. All "40°" are left untouched beyond about 2.5k RPM. Below 1.2k RPM, the Arduino is set to allow for less than 12°. There is 1° for every hundred RPM, plus 15° beyond 1.2k RPM (that's all left in when it reaches 2.5k RPM). Let's just say I "power timed it"; the engine has more than 230k miles on it. Do you think the fuel pump for these TBI systems needs to be completely submerged in gasoline in order to last a long time? I saw a video where they opened up one such pump and the gasoline seems to circulate all through the inner workings of the pump. According to that, as long as the engine is running, the pump is fine even if it's not completely submerged. Sorry if I left a lot of detail about the EFI, it's not even my design. Dielectric videos channel is where I found the plans.

Do you have any other Firebird wheels? 👀 I'm looking for a specific Pontiac rim.

Thanks! Things I like.... yes! Lol I like that!

Yep. That's exactly what I do in this in this video 👍 I check each cylinder to go over the damage or abuse the motor gas gone through. Edit: next video I'll tear the intake, valley cover, and heads off. I have to replace the head gaskets anyway if I'm going to try and run this engine.

​@@NotAGarage I just got to the bore scope part, that with the dish pistons should definitely be a 5.3L, sweet.😎 The part that concerns me is the orange color under the valve covers. If that thing runs Dex cool antifreeze that's the same color orange so it may have a coolant leak in the oil?👍

@itseithergonnaworkoritaint7852 I would be concerned about that, but the coolant wouldn't travel that far up. Especially to that extreme, even with valve seals bad. I don't think it could have because no pistons were washed clean. Maybe 3 and 6. But number 2 has me concerned. The plug and the top of #2's piston were something I've never seen. Hopefully I'll know nore when I get those heads off tomorrow or this week. As far as the bronze color, you're referring to I've seen this before. I've only tore down three LS engines of my own and one that wasn't. Two of mine I had from low mileage. All of which I used full synthetic oil, and both of those inside valve train all looked identical in color. I'm thinking if coolant came from a blown head gasket and made its way inside the valve train to that extant, then I'm thinking that whole right side would of had washed piston tops. We'll know more when I get those things tore down!💪 I'll probably change the rod bearings, too, just so I don't have to worry as much. I wish I had known more about this engine before I bought it lol or the seller had more information.

@@NotAGarage If antifreeze leaks into a bore it can pass by the rings into the oil and the oil pump would pump it through the engine in the lifters, up through the push rods under the valve covers where that orange discoloring is.😯 Hopefully not but......? But if in it's only a head gasket or 2 then you were planning on replacing those anyway. Just make sure there is no sludge in the lifters and push rods or oil passages. Not sure what happens when Dex cool mixes with oil, only ever had cars with the green stuff. Oh, don't forget the extra ring gap while you have it apart so it's boost ready. You'll probably miss that low end torque and might want a way to replace it?😁👍

​@itseithergonnaworkoritaint7852 I've experienced dex cool destroying head gaskets twice before 😆 my god I hate dex cool! I've learned to flush it out and replace with 50/50. It is unbelievable the chaos it leaves behind lol I definitely would of noticed right away. Let's see what the destruction is when I tear the top end apart

Yes sir. I did go through this with my volts meter. I think I did a video on that. I reset my tps as well. I had actually changed the entire distributor to a new one. This engine has given me so much problems. At this specific time I think it was the pickup coil. I did a video replacing that as well. Thanks for your help and advice 🙏🙏

I bought them from a small US shop. They rebuild fuel injectors. They're located in Florida, Washington, and California.

@@NotAGarage so they're later model Bosch style? Any make/model will work as long as they're the correct lb. I think 350's have 22lb...I put 24lb in mine which were sold as rebuilt but ya gotta check them because they're not really rebuildable they only clean them and put new O Rings...the fuckers can have 200,000 miles on em. The internals get weak and they will leak fuel the second you hit the key and the pressure builds this is why I'm going with new Ford Racing units for $200...you can't fucking beat that for new factory units. I got some new generic ones from a Ford Mustang specialist in California but they leaked too so I sent the shits back for a refund...you don't want your oil contaminated with fucking gasoline ⛽ because they'll leak down after you turn the key off and that gas doesn't get burned it goes down into the pan

@mariocooldude9092 the stock size is 19lbs. These are 22lbs. I reject putting in a slightly bigger size. I have a new set of stock Bosch I'm going to install. These injectors I put on my car a couple of years ago. They actually work great. This is one part I've replaced and have held up. But I agree with you! You gotta double check and make sure they aren't scams. I believe this issue at this time was the hose on my fuel pump connecting to the sending unit rotted. The fuel pressure regulator wasn't receiving the correct pressure and this was causing the main issues. There has been so many problems I can't remember which was when lol... but! I did do a video on the fuel pump issue as well... yes, I have a trap door! Don't judge me 😭 I have a set of Fords on my 97 Z28. The stock size for the 2nd gen SBC LT1 is 24lbs. I installed 30lbs. But I also have heads, cam, exhaust, etc.

@@NotAGarage maybe.. I think my 85 came with 24's and GM dropped them down in later years. I put heads and a big camshaft so I jumped up to 24lb units at 46psi. I think what it was was GM installed 24's but at 32psi then dropped down to 19lb but increased the psi to 45 .As I said they may seem to work fine but anyone seeing this please check for leaks before seating them into the intake manifold. Install them into the fuel rail and hit the key then see if they leak. As I said I purchased "new" Bosch style and they leaked as used 😭

Because it's constantly failing me and leaving *me stranded 😆

It actually plays and works fine. The color is clear on the TV. But I think the capture card I use for my vhs tapes creates this white wash over the screen. I don't know why. Maybe I need a different brand? I tried adjusting the setting for the display in the program I use to record the capture footage, but nothing can adjust down the exposure.

@@NotAGarage Not sure what I just read there but why not just play it on your TV and record it with your camera?😎👍

Yes and no lol... I got all of these issues resolved. But more followed. It's always a gamble trying to drive this engine. I have to keep in mind what roads I take in case I need to pull over or if it shuts off and doesn't want to start again. I have been driving it for a couple years now. It's left me stranded a couple of times, and it's shut off at red lights a few times. It's always a rush to see if it'll start again. Usually it does. It does like moisture in the air or rain at all. I cover the engine under the hood, but sometimes the slightest bit of rain will cause it to not run. I have alot of other videos on it. I wish I had documented everything, but unfortunately I didn't. I'm pulling this 350 TPI out in the summer. I'm going back to my LS1 swap in my 3rd gens. I'll probably sell this complete for $200

@@NotAGarageno kiddin. I enjoy a good challenge but that'd be enough to piss a guy off lol. You anywhere near Northwest Indiana? I would be interested in that.

​@@larryperry2094the issue is likely something simple and stupid 😂 TPS can make it idle and run shitty

I did. It's still got blockage. It's not engaging. So I think my high switch is bad. I got some footage of it. I'll change that tomorrow if what I'm doing isn't working. I'll have that up next week. Then I have two other videos just doing normal stuff to post following that

@@NotAGarage It could be an electric vent control that's not working?

@itseithergonnaworkoritaint7852 well this model only has vacuum on the economy controls and a metal rod that pushes the flap over the heater box. So I'm not getting heat, and it's only coming out the defrost. I'll narrow it down and figure it out for sure. Using de-icer gets expensive every morning lol and without heat is terrible 🥶

@@NotAGarage Good luck.😎👍

Thanks for your help and advice 🙏🙏