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I am not sure what is most common but I would prefer a thick viscosity (gear) oil

Iso32 in headstock bearings, iso68 on ways

Thank you! I will make them available when the machine is finished. Building a new shed now so it's on hold for a bit

Cast iron as a material is indeed far superior over welded mild steel, the problem is that the bearings are 80+ years old and bearing technology has improved significantly since. Also, hate to say it, but the design of the new spindle is better in my opinion as the chuck is now much closer to the bearings, thus improving rigidity, also lubrication is superior.

I think that, regarding specs, the Jasic EVO Arc 200 PFC is most similar to the Esab es 200i pro. Surprisingly the Jasic is a little bit more expensive but is looks newer/more modern too. Also the Jasic has 60% duty cycle at 200 A, the Esab has 25% duty cycle at 200A. I don't have much experience with Esab machine, they are not commonly used where I live. Jasic is more common for amateur use, whereas Esab is being used on a more professional basis. I would suggest looking for reviews on the particular machines to gain a better insight in the quality and longevity of the machines.

Thanks for reply. Sorry for my delay. I've had a bad sinus infection. --- ■ Have you ever tested your Jasic tig 180 with a clamp meter to see how accurate the specs are to its stated amp ratings & dial accuracy ? ---- ■ How long do Jasic welders typically last before breaking the 1st time & last til not worth fixing ? ( I don't know anyone that's ever had one) ---- ■ How has customer service been to your locals? ( I emailed Jasic 3x & got ignored. While Esab emailed me same day. ) ..........Since you're very smart; If a welder (ex: Weldcote 140 striker ) states: ● generator friendly & ● works with Voltage 95-265V , --- ■ Would you say that it prolly has a PFC inside? ( what do i look for inside casing to verify if it has PFC or not? The larger Striker 160 version has PFC stated on casing+ads but the 140 doesn't. ) --- ■ Where was it you seen Jasic evo arc 200 pfc had 60% duty cycle@200 amps? I've only noticed 25% I'm the Manuel & websites. --- ■ any clue if the jasic evo arc pro 200 can run 6010 rods ? If so what size rods. --- ■ any clue what guage your power cord ended up being? ( Esab uses only a 14 gauge ) The hot start & arc force seem simple on the Jasic using the selector then rotate the dial. While Esab you have to push the dial in to adjust the hot start , but dunno if can adjust the arc force by pressing dial a 2nd time. Pressing the Esab dial to change settings seems like it would wear out the amp dial unlike jasic EVO keeps them separated. The Rotating power switch on back of Esab seems it'd have more longevity vs the Flip type thats on Jasic Torn between the 2 products & looking for one that'll last a decade hopefully lol. Things always go bad sometime just after the Warranty expires.

​@@lupita9041 No problem, I hope you are doing better now. This is all I know: 1. I have not tested the accuracy of the amp rating, one thing that I am missing on my machine is a display to show the amps as the dial itself doesn't give much precision and repeatability. 2. I don't know personally, I have not put that many hours on my machine but no complaints so far. 3. I haven't had to deal with customer service yet, I assume Jasic is a purely China based company with re-sellers around the world, making it difficult to reach the company itself. 4. Sounds like it has PFC with those statements, I don't know how one can distinguish a PFC module but I assume it will contain at least some coils/transformers and capacitors. 5. I do see that the duty cycle is indeed 25% at 40C, our local distributor states 60% on their website but I cannot confirm this using the manual. 6. According to the manual they can run 4mm (5/32") but not sure if that's with optimal, I have used 6013 rods with my machine, I don't see why 6010 wouldn't work. 7. Not totally sure but I think my machine had a 12 gauge but could have been 14 as well (keep in mind, it's a 180 amp welder on 230V) I am a huge fan of sepparated dials for amps and other settings, if I had to purchase a machine for professional use however I might go with a better known brand such as esab/miller/lincoln/kemppi (European). For use at home I will be using my Jasic for as long as it lasts.

Thanks. Yes feeling better now after strong doses of antibiotics. Had bad swelling over the weekend but it passed. I didn't realize yours didn't have a screen. --- Do you know many people that have had a jasic working for years w/o issues? Or people who complained it went out on them early? Is Kemppi expensive? Miller just seems so expensive vs Esab. The Jasic seems more advanced than the esab & why it's got my attention but I've brevet known anything about them ■ if Esab is truly the winner in longevity then I may have to go that way when comes to spending over $500. Especially in a $1000 ballpark. The separated dials to dial it all in with a digital screen would be great but I belive those start at $1000 :-/ ■ have you ever welded with t 7014? What rods have you used with the Jasic so far? I assumed the weldcote should have a large capacitor like hvac units do to make the PFC work. But dunno in a non pfc welder if one would have small capacitors for it to function cuz don't know much about inverter welder guts. I don't have a non pfc unit to open to compare to.

@@lupita9041 I am not aware of any major issues with Jasic machine, about it being more advanced: I honestly think that cheap (chinese made) machines are far more advanced (for the money) because the manufacturer wants to increase the selling points of the cheap machines to make it more competitive towards the professional machines, longevity however will be better for the professional brand machines, in general. I have only used 6013 rods but I am not that experienced with stick as the majority of the welding I do is TIG and MIG. I am not sure about the PFC situation, if Jasic states that it's machine has PFC I assume that it's specs are sufficient for the duty cycle.

Good question, I am not sure so I might just try it myself. It has to be noted that stainless likes to warp when heated so I'm not sure about the outcome. I'll let you know what my findings are.

It is a bit of a historic piece indeed, however I decided to make it a usefull machine whilst maintaining al the original parts as they are. Whenever I want I can unbolt the spindle and replace it with the original one. Unfortunately the original pieces are not complete at the moment.

The finish is mainly determined by the temperature at which you dip the part, if you want more control over the finish, cold bluing is also a good option.

Thanks for your comment, have a nice day!

Obrigado por seu comentário! Embora eu não tenha feito muitos vídeos sobre este projeto recentemente, ainda estou trabalhando na fresadora e estou perto de terminar outro vídeo sobre este projeto, mas meu tempo livre é limitado (desculpe pela tradução potencialmente ruim)

Obrigado pela resposta! Entendo perfeitamente a questão do tempo. De qualquer maneira estou inscrito no seu canal, espero ver sua fresadora trabalhando em vídeos no futuro! Claro que se possível fazer alguma filmagem simples do projeto ficaríamos gratos!

I found that with the spray can it does indeed take quite a few layers. When dipping the part I find that two cycles is sufficient most of the times (depending on material)

Thanks for your comment! That is in fact a valid concern. I will make some sort of cover for the new motor that I have bought for this project.

Heat (the right amount) and any type of oil, yes that's it😉

@@EngineerSteve That's interesting. I'd be worried about doing so with firearms parts as that may ruin the temper and present a safety issue.. but this is cool nonetheless.

@@MausTanker I would not advise doing it on vital gun parts for the concern that you mentioned. Cold bluing seems more suitable for that purpose, I would imagine.

@@EngineerSteve still very cool to know!

I have never used this process on rubber but I see no reason for it not to work.

Most likely not, it might not be that noticable but (line) boring after welding would be the best solution. That's outside my capacities though.

​@@EngineerSteveI guess you could have used spherical self alinning roller bearings, but they might be expensive.

Thanks! I just finished the new spindle for this machine. The original spindle, as seen in the video, dated from 1939 and did not allow for any serious turning work.

Thanks, I am sure it will work but how far I can push it is a different question, we will find out in the end😉

Thanks! I think it's a reasonable way of building one without the need for complex metal working operations.

Thanks for your comment! My conclusion was the same, that's why I am building a new milling machine (video comming soon) that will incorporate all the viewer feedback and things I learned.

Thanks for your comment, have a great day!

The design of the spindle is not yet fininished but when it is I will surely make the files available!

@@EngineerSteve legend

Thanks for the input, I have a small lathe now so this setup will see no use anymore to me.

Thanks for your comment, I made the files available here: www.homemadetools.net/forum/3d-printed-mini-lathe-add-ons-98898 If you can not acces the files this way, please let me know.

I have not yet done any accuracy checks but that is something I want to do in the future, after all it's a cheap table.

This process is commonly referred to as'hot bluing' my best guess is that the metal oxidizes to a blue colour (by means of heating it) before being cooled down in oil, hence the name

I am no expert at bluing guns but I would apply cold blue in this situation to prevent heat distortion.

You are correct on every point you mentioned, I learned a lot by building/converting this machine (also through reading helpfull comments). I am now using that knowledge and experience for building a new milling machine, there already are a few videos on my channel about the new machine and many will follow!

Thank you! much appreciated

In that situation I would recommend using cold blue. I think it will work better for small spots, additionally you don't have to heat up the part at all.

One of my goals with the new machine I am building currently is to make it (semi) CNC, I am pretty sure it is possible but you just need to figure out some motor mounts and expect some backlash with the original leadscrews.

Thank you for the insight!

Thanks for your comment! I am still working on the exact procedure so I will get to this topic in the next video.

Thanks, I learned something new!

Depends on what you are planning to use them for, personally I like products with lower noise levels but cheaper alternatives will work as well (up to a lower standard of course)

The milling machine that I am building right now (to replace the one in this video) will indeed have a lot more mass to improve rigidity. However you do not need 2.5 hp, 1 hp is plenty for small machines.

Thanks for your comment!

The milling machine I am building right now has BT30 so I learned from my mistakes 😀

Yes, you are right about the colours and mild steel; although I do tend to have some colour in the majority of my mild steel welds unless the heat input into the part is high.

@@EngineerSteve great review of thr welder I think you convinced me to buy. Has the tig high frequency or is it scratch start

@@barrycooney7195 It has high frequency start, the only remark I have is that there is no digital display for your amps (which makes it easier to use consistent settings for certain thickness). For the price it really is an incredible machine, comparable with professional grade machines.

@@EngineerSteve I noticed the lack of a digital display but it’s a small compromise. Might treat myself in the new year. Thanks

@@barrycooney7195 You should take a look at the torch, I have bought a different torch after making this video because I didn't really like the one supplied with the machine. depending on preference of course

It is indeed easy to forget 🙂 Cheers anyway!

Thanks for your comment! This is exactly one of the problems I had. I am currently working on a new milling machine with a (bought) cast iron table.

It might be possible but on this apron it will likely contact the carriage handwheel or restrict your motion when operating the handwheel. Do you prefer the carriage to stop when you push down the handle?

Thanks for your comment! just remember that rigidity is key, that's why I am in the process of building a new mill. Although much more expensive, it should work much better. Good luck with your project!

@@EngineerSteve I had a Vintage Bridgeport in our R&D Lab at Pfizer huge cast metal frame Oh My God. My Model trains are not CT Scanners so I think we will be OK with pretty rigid. Thanks, Dennis

I have yet to try this process on stainless steel, of course the purpose of bluing is rust prevention, which is not that much of an concern on stainless. If you are aiming for discoloration you can surely change the color of stainless by just heating it.

Thanks! have a nice day

Thanks for your comments, videography is not my strongest skill but with feedback like this it will improve over time 🙂 I am too looking forward to the new bearing setup, I can't wait to use this awesome little machine to make some nice parts!

That's an interesting question, I actually don't know but I think I will give it a try myself with this process. I do know that cold bluing doesn't work on stainless. I will get back to you when I tried it.

@EngineerSteve so I got Horner old standby arriving tomorrow for $16, and I can do map, propane, or oxygen/acetylene to really just go doh. Im not fucking up my MS blues bands at $55. You'd think someone would of done this because they were rainbowing everything there from pipes to knives. Im only worried that it will rough up the finish, and I'll look like Chris Rock in new jack city with some jacked up lips. Dude, I look everywhere, and I found nothing. I even asked those guys and GCs at work today that know it all, but NIEN! I just be the first dude to think this because the only first credit to my name is Crown Royal apple with a scoop of vanilla ice cream in a low ball glass.

In regards to cold bluing, yes. You can make it darker in color by applying more layers of bluing; then once you’re done just rinse it with water, dry off, and let the metal soak in oil for about two hours. Hope this helps!

@@Warlock.MFG.Co. Exactly

A little bit of a darker shade might be possible with hot bluing when getting the part to a higher temperature, if you want to have a darker shade I would suggest cold bluing. I am not aware of hot bluing being effective on any material, other than steel/iron. Other metals might require chemical processes.

Good one! that will make it quicker

Thanks for you comment! if you want to try something else, you might want to try cold bluing as well, visually it gives similar (or even better) results without potential heat distortion.