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Thanks. It stayed tracked for the last 3 years, but now it has started to be a bit floppy on the left-hand side. Also, my oilite bushes show some wear on the right-hand side . I think it's time to do some maintenance again.

Sorry for that . It 130w but , I was only using 30% of power.

Obrigado, grande abraço 🍻

Use the chainsaw. Yes, you lose some timber, but at least you will have some timber to use. The trouble with Willow, you need to slice it as soon as possible , or it will create fungal staining if you leave to dry in log form, and timber will lose some strength as well.

@@mari0david I did not know that, I will get to slicing! Thanks!

Yes, that's correct, but it's still more economical than me purchasing brand new blades every week.

Yes, I run the timber through the drum sander.

Thanks 👍

Thanks 👍

I took your advice to publish videos weekly👍 but I don't think this helps the algorithm.

Thanks for watching

It's all about Yew.

I'm going to sell them.

Thank you! Cheers!

The tap tone is very similar with Ash wood. But anyway they will be some different from piece to piece. If you thinking about building an instrument, go ahead I think it will be fine 👍

Some of the cookies will crack, depending on the moisture content and the type of wood. Most of the olive wood cracks. Be very careful when you cookies on a bandsaw, special if is a low-power bandsaw, it's worth to make a jig for supporting the wood.

Thanks 👍

I can resaw about 30 pieces like that in rosewood. The trouble with rosewood is the build up of sap in the blade because of the wood being so oily. There is other wood species much harder in the blade for example for example rhodesian teak, African ebony, African Blackwood, bog oak, Red palm, Ipe, and many more.

Hi! For resaw I use fastcut blades from tuffsaws.co.uk And for sawing green wood I use the ripper from axminster tools.

@@mari0david thank you for the reply! I like using tuffsaw blades too, what is the saw that you have?

I have a Sicar top7

Hi, Tom! I will check your latest videos. If you are offended why I don't use the push stick, I only can apologise. I'm not teaching anything in this videos, just showing different species. It's difficult to please Persians and Greeks . And I'm NOT trying to cause any type of controversy amongst other woodworkers.

@@mari0david Hi again Mario Still waiting on some input from the folks on the forums, mainly sawmill creek, as that's where the majority of folks using Italian machines/flat tyred machines hang out and chat. Not offended that you don't use something other than your thumb for behind the work, i.e another slice of a cheaper timber. I just haven't heard you give a reason for not using one. It's not like you're cutting raindeers, and need to change direction frequently. You're channel is not only interesting regarding the wood, but the saw also. I know on average, there's only 3.500+ reported injuries in the USA regarding bandsaws, compared to a whopping 60.000+ reported injuries regarding circular saws, but I'm guessing the majority of those on the bandsaw could have been preventable. In Ireland, the UK and a lot of Europe, unlike some other countries ... we differentiate between "incidents" and "accidents" i.e An "incident" is something going wrong which could have been prevented. An "accident" if something goes wrong with all the safety measures taken. Say like a blade snapping and getting bit, only applies if all safety measures were in place. Just making sure you are aware of that. I'll stop now, but will likely mention it in you're other videos from time to time for others sake, as I find them interesting. All the best, Tom

Hi, Tom! I actually had a lot of problems with my bandsaw recently, not really sure what caused the problem but the blade as made a cut on the trust berring and the top tyre some chunky bits come out. I have ordered proper tyres for my bandsaw, but delivery time, is only in about 3 months.

Eu moro em Inglaterra.

Hi, Tom! Thanks for your comment. I only forum I use is the Facebook groups. My bandsaw is a sicar top 7. I think is a French brand made in Italy, a bit obscure brand, but well solid and robust. The only fresh blade in the videos, is the videos where I'm using maximum capacity cutting oak The other videos is with used blades and a few videos where I definitely need a blade change. I use 3TPI fastcut blades from tuffsaws . ( to mill fresh timber I use a 1.3 TPI excalibur ) The blades don't last very long , so I made a little set up , I purchased a cheap chainsaw sharpener and I modified it slightly, I only sharp the inside of the tooth but it's enough to bring the blades back to life. ( I have a small video, I may upload it later.) I'm saving for a bespoke automatic sharpener only for the 3tpi blades. The setting tool is actually a antique dated from the late 1800s ,but does a fantastic job, only takes 3minutes To set the 5 meter blade. I wanted to make a video about the bandsaw when I changed tyres, but I was rushing to get the job done, because I needed to resaw some wood for a job. I tension my blades following the dial in the bandsaw, not very reliable but give me a idea of the tension. The previous tyres where made from vulcanised cork , but I failed to find the same replacement, so I purchased a lower quality cork , and is rubbish, I will charge the tyres again soon to try vulcanised rubber. My machine only have a 3kw motor 3phase, but the solid cast iron wheels give the blade plenty of torque. Yes, probably I will make more videos about the bandsaw, I will definitely make more videos about cutting different species because I have over 100 different woods. I will check your channel in a moment. Cheers Mario

@@mari0david Thanks for getting back to me, Wow, I was guessing they were freshly sharpened, that is music to my ears. It doesn't seem like your tires are in too bad nick, not at all. I found the thin kerf blades don't like it, if the tires or wheel alignment is not 100 % correct, it seems the set is more delicate also, so everything must be spot on. Boy are those blades sharp! I fitted a heavy Axminster GT blade since, and was surprised with the amount of difference in the drift angle/trunnion adjustment needed. My saw, even though with damaged tires, seems to have preferred these instead. I was chasing my tail for a long time, with the thin gauge blades trying to get my saw tuned up. My machine was a bit of a Friday evening "lemon" and took some head scratching to figure out the cause. Bad tires can actually make it so bad that the blade will refuse to cut, and the blade will dive into the thrust guide instantly. I suspect/guessing your tires are flat, as your machine is making very little contact with the thrust guide, (making this channel a lot more enjoyable than others who have machines with screaming thrust guides) I wouldn't be in such a hurry to replace anything, and believe vulcanising rubber is a method of bonding rubber, rather than a type of rubber , although it could be different type or rubber also. I don't have any knowledge about it, apart from reading of a company suggesting the wheels would have to be sent back to the factory to do this. If you can't find anywhere local to get them, Meber apparently make some, which might be closer than the UK sellers. I bought a Centauro tire from Scott&Sargeant (UK) with extortionate postage! I presume Conway saw (UK) would be the same cost to post. I couldn't find any European shop selling rubber tires for ACM machinery , and I felt the same about the cork option, so settled on the Centauro quick change tire which has a groove (needing removal) It is much thinner than what I was expecting! Maybe you might be able to find suitable ones for your 700 machine as those shops sell Wadkin parts also, which might be perfect? Alternatively I've read of someone using this stuff, and dug up the link. Not seen anyone actually use it, but it looks promising. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SOLID-PLY-REINFORCED-INSERTION-SIDE-SKIRT-NEOPRENE-RUBBER-STRIP-VARIOUS-SIZES-/371486065417?var=&hash=item567e4b8309:m:mUBFCz8Jxwq0-QA__JbPwtg&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&siteid=0&customid=&campid=5338413729&toolid=10001&mpt=1453493 There's also a very knowledgable dude called Van husky who somehow has lots of experience with all things bandsaw, and he reckons a 3M rubber and gasket adhesive to be the best stuff for bonding, either that or 24 hour slow cure epoxy. Just might possibly be handy to know in future. Look forward to seeing more of your videos, Curious why you don't use a pushstick, This video might make you change your mind about that. ruclips.net/video/qu_s0U9Ms-o/видео.html Thanks again, really enjoying these videos Good luck with the channel. All the best Tom in Ireland.

@@TomTrees actually I had to dress the tyres in a wedge shape, because of the cork was very soft, didn't run true with the flat tyres My previous ones were round shape and seem to work very well, never needed to adjust the angle on the wheel. My push stick is a grouting float .

@@mari0david Hello again, I didn't realize you commented until now, sorry bout that. That's very interesting Mario. I presume by "wedge shape" you mean a crown not on the center of the wheel, but closer to the front, like on the Centauro machine for metal which has no tires at all. ? My push stick comment was referring to the feeding hand, and not the float tool for keeping stock against the fence. I just use a slim strip for the job with crisp edges, and curious why you don't? I've watched most of your resaw videos, and haven't seen a good example of a why I'm saying this, but presumably you have cut into a section of timber before and the resistance suddenly ceased, sometimes ending up taking a wee bite of the pushstick. I don't think I would have a fast enough reaction time to stop my hand from getting cut. All the best Tom

@@TomTrees I have used those bandsaw with no tyres, in fact was the first bandsaw I've used. The edge shape was to create a crown , yes I'm waiting for those right cork tyres to arrive. Sorry, I get it now about the push stick, yes sometimes I use it . In the videos looks like my hands are closer to the blade, but they often quite far .

I think all wood dust is carcinogenic. Spanish cedar dust is irritant. The worst sawdust I came across, is tambootie, laburnum, and sneezewood . All these made me feel ill on the spot.

I will try to find some pictures, and I will send it to you. I've sold the Amplifier, won't be able to take new pictures.

130 Watts

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