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This was quite early in the testing. I don't have a THC on the plasma so it won't be perfect but if you look at the latest video of the plasma it's better.

@@nielsdewolf5939 it's a cheapo chinesium "cut-60" plasma cutter

@@rajesm22 I don't. The plasma I'm using doesn't have an output for height adjustment.. For what I'm cutting it works good enough without it, I just start the arc and run the path.

@@marcusrunsten Ok sr tnq

@@Aitalk82 it's all on the blog, www.runstenracing.se/?cat=61

More like 2015..

The plasma doesn't have hf start..

Thanks mate!

Yeah, it's quite hard when you want to cut bigger pieces but the darn thing keeps bugging out on you.. development I think it's called.. :)

It's easy enough to build yourself. :)

Yup, the settings sure can be improved but it's cutting fine and not chewing through the electrode so I'll get to that later. :)

It's all there in the link in the video description. I've posted the project to github too with all the CAD and POST processor. Just need to add the klipper config when I get time for it. github.com/marcusrunsten/cnc_plasma

@@marcusrunsten Thanks for sharing this!

I've got the CAD for it somewhere, but mostly it's just 40x40 and 40x20 extrusion with some joiners.

Ok, so I've exported the CAD and POST processor from fusion and added them to github, github.com/marcusrunsten/cnc_plasma Please let me know if there are any problems or if you find the project useful. :)

Sorry, it requires a bit of modification to the frame and relocation of the rear suspension to make this work. It's way too much work to be "cost effective".

@marcusrunsten thx for the reply. I have an original Gen 1 stealth bomber. Does your swingarm kit fit, and will it need a frame mod, too? Since the original bomber frame is smaller than the enduro clone bomber?

@@kingcreole9815 unfortunately the answer is "I don't know". Do you have any pictures of your frame? To fit the motor on top of the swingarm there's need for relocating the upper shock mount on the frame aswell. On this first build I just welded "ears" to the frame box in the new location but on the second one I built a bolt-on shock mount that's sturdier and saves the frame from a lot of stress. But there's the need for cutting the shock mounts off no matter how you go about it, so some modification is needed. All I did to the swingarm was cut the shock mounts off and drill and tap the mounting holes for the motor mounts, so it's an easy process to replicate.

Yes, 2040 and some 4040.

@marcusrunsten I want to do a similar set up like you did, is what you use for the belt tensioner and the motor setup at the end of the extrusion

Thanks mate! I aimed for a 1x1m working area but it's a little less, maybe 800x800.

Hey, thanks mate! I haven't posted the config on git or anywhere but I'll download it next time I connect the printer and make it available for download.. I'll keep you posted.

I added the CAD and POST processor to github, github.com/marcusrunsten/cnc_plasma and I'll add the klipper config next time I start the plasma up.

Very cool!!!! Cant wait…👍👍

It really isn't that hard. The hardest thing is deciding how you want it to look. :)

It is awesome! When I ride it and go full throttle the controller sometimes cuts out though.. But that never happens for the kid so I guess that's why I'm going 4000 for my bike. :D Thank you SO much for the awesome BB map and all the support!

I'll clean the CAD up and export it, I'll post a comment when I've got it online..

Ok, so I've exported the CAD and POST processor from fusion and added them to github, github.com/marcusrunsten/cnc_plasma Please let me know if there are any problems or if you find the project useful. :)

Ok, so I've exported the CAD and POST processor from fusion and added them to github, github.com/marcusrunsten/cnc_plasma Please let me know if there are any problems or if you find the project useful. :) I'll add a BOM to the github this afternoon.

Can do!

Tack för kommentaren. Menar du beställning på maskinen eller på skurna plåtbitar. :) Det är ju en extremhobbymaskin så den håller inte riktigt klass för att sälja delar tyvärr.

It's a proper beast!

Thanks for the comment! I haven't posted the config yet. I'll rip it and post it online next time I start the plasma up.

I'm sorry I haven't gotten to ripping the klipper config out yet. I'll try to get to it this christmas. I'll post that to the github once it's done too. github.com/marcusrunsten/cnc_plasma Please let me know if there are any problems or if you find the project useful. :)

@@marcusrunsten no worries! I’ve gone down the Linux CNC rabbit hole with my current effort, but plan another build with Klipper soonish. Thanks for remembering!

Thank you for the comment! Sure thing, what format do you want the CAD file in?

Ok, so I've exported the CAD and POST processor from fusion and added them to github, github.com/marcusrunsten/cnc_plasma Please let me know if there are any problems or if you find the project useful. :)

Thanks mate!

No, the controller resets due to electromagnetic interference.

No THC yet. Still trying to find a good way to build a DIY THC. Haven't found the reference voltage in my cutter so I might need to find the distance to the material some other way, preferrably one not suceptible to the EM interference of the cutter.. Honestly I haven't really needed a THC for the cutting I'm doing yet so it's not the highest priority on my todo-list. :) The reason for the cutter stopping in this video is EM interference causing the controller to shut down. I've got that down to it working when the plasma is set to 42A or less..

Do you have HF-start on your plasma cutter? Mine doesn't and HF start is one big reason for EM problems. Still, I can't go over 42A on the cutter or the controller restarts randomly. The solution for this I think is moving all the wires further from the nozzle and not routing the cutter hose close to any cables. Before redesigning the Z axis again to try to mitigate the problem I'm going to try adding ferrites to the stepper- and limit switch wires since that's a much easier operation. I've tried shielding all unshielded cables with aluminium foil but that did nothing. =) With that said, 42A is about what my fuse can handle for any prolonged time so it's working pretty well as it is. But there's always room for improvement.

​@@marcusrunsten No HF with my plasma cutter, i buy a shielded cable for my stepper and limit switch, as soon as i get the cable i will try that! Thank you for your answer, hello from France 😀

Keep me posted. :) Shielded cables is a must-have on a plasma cutter like this. Try routing the stepper and limit switch cables as far from the torch hose as possible. I've got all the electronics routed in drag chains along the axes of the machine and the torch hose suspended from the ceiling going more or less straight down to the torch. Still, as I mentioned, I get cut-outs at more than 42A. Since I'm lazy I haven't really tried to solve that issue since it works for me cutting 4-6mm steel sheets.. I'll add the ferrites and post an update if that helps with the interference.

@@marcusrunsten yes i’m back to you after the update of my setup with a shielded cables thank for your advice 😁

Not exactly, but it's just a collection of ratrig aluminium extrusions and some custom CNC cut brackets. I've got a CAD-file I can share I guess..

I would be very interested to see the drawings, are those on dxf? I like your project!

Ok, so I've exported the CAD and POST processor from fusion and added them to github, github.com/marcusrunsten/cnc_plasma Please let me know if there are any problems or if you find the project useful. :)

Hi there. Thanks for the comment! I'm using a cheapo chinesium CUT-60 plasma with a no-name tube torch that I got off ebay. I made a build blog for the CNC-part of it all here www.runstenracing.se/?cat=61

The plasma cutter does not have HF-start so I had to make a custom start script where it goes down to the material, starts the plasma and then raises the torch a few mm above the material. I'm using a standard 32-bit 3D-printer control board to run the stepper motors and a Raspberry Pi with Klipper to parse and execute the G-code. Since it's for 3D-printers I had to make some customizations but nothing major. The way I set everything up I could do it all in the klipper configuration without changing any of the code. I've got some EMI issues still without the HF but as long as I run 42A or less it works perfectly. The Raspberry Pi has built in WiFi so I push the g-code to the cutter over WiFi and control it all using my phone and the Klipper web GUI. I had to make a custom post processor for the plasma that I use in Fusion360 to make the g-code and it works flawlessly (more or less).

Agree

0.57

Oh, it sure was! Surfing the dunes of the Sahara dessert was awesome!

Hi there. I just used a couple of tiny wires I had around.. From what I remembered I just connected it the same way as the old unit..

@@RunstenRacing thanks for the reply, I ended up soldering the wires on but the vibration still wasn't working. I opened it back up and found that the copper wire under the old flat wire broke off from the heat of the solder... Yeah I'm new to that, haha. It looks like I might either have to try the Nintendo switch vibration thingo you mentioned in a comment of your article, or buy a new controller. It was either gonna work or not. Was a bit of fun figuring it out at midnight. 😅 I was so close to greatness!...

@@dingojo I ended up switching to the Nintendo one, been working ever since.. :)

@@RunstenRacing yeah I have ordered one. Now need to wait about 50 days until it comes for me to use. :D

Hi, I bought the vibration unit for the nintendo switch, which seems to be the exact same unit: www.ebay.com/itm/HD-Vibrationsmotor-fur-Nintendo-Switch-Joy-Con-Controller/401794577569?hash=item5d8cd2b4a1:g:iQIAAOSwTyhdELwS The first fix I did with resoldering the internal wires turned out much worse and for 10 euro it's worth getting a new unit. They're not built to be opened.. ;)

Thanks for the fast reply !, I will check this. Also, I wanna add something: in your case the motor wasn't working at all, right? why? I ask because I've realized that my motor (I hope), still works, my problem was, at first, I lost the sound and the vibration, but I would still get feedback, I could use the controller but it just wouldn't make noise or vibration, until yesterday where it just stopped working and is always on blue light I'm thinking that what happened to me, is that the flex got detached (probably because of a hit), you think that if I solder the flex again to the motor unit, It would work once again?. I ask this because in the best case scenario, I just have to weld and it will work, without having to buy anything.

Super happy to hear that! Nice work fixing the controller!

Thank you for the kind words!

Hi Anton, the link is working but some IP-ranges are blocked due to continous hacking attempts.. Where do you live?

@@marcusrunsten Russia. Tried with VPN - it works, thank you!

@@SuperDay7 perfect! I hope you enjoy the blog even though most of it is in swedish..

Подскажи пожалуйста, какой Vpn подошёл? Или из какой страны ? Не могу нигде найти vpn с ip швеции

The one I've actually gotten was DOA so I haven't been able to test the function yet, but it seems to be the exact same unit. It fits without a problem and the connectors are in the right spot for easy soldering..

@@marcusrunsten Thanks, I soldered cables, then remembered I had smaller cables on a dead servo and ruined the motor attempting to desolder the first cables.

ive just tried with the nintendo switch motor and it doesnt seem to work but i may have done it wrong

I ordered one but haven't tried to install it yet.

@@aran7831 Did you try both combinations for the wiring?

If it's rattling it has probably just come loose from the double-sided tape that's holding it in place. Just be careful not to damage the suuuuper-thin connector that's connecting the vibrator unit to the circuit borad and you'll be fine.

@@marcusrunsten that was what i thought that has happened there. The vibration motor(actuator something-something) weights probably couple grams so it probably would require quite an impact for it to knock loose from the double-sided tape that it has probably done.....oh well this is what i get when buying 2nd hand stuff all the time :) I have some Sekisui-brand 2-sided sheets used to attach heatsinks over ic:s, it holds really great and is very thin - really good material for this fix probably. Ill let you know how it went.

@@iikkakonola I think you're probably right. Mine was still attached to the double sided tape when I opened it up though but the connecting lead was broken. Unfortunately you tend to hit stuff when playing games like beat saber or super-hot VR and even though the controllers are really tough sometimes they break. I think mine broke when one of the kids threw the controller on the floor and we had to snap the touchpad back in place.. That 2-sided tape sounds like a great solution to fix the problem, just be careful with the leads as they are really tiny.. :)

@@marcusrunsten actually I didn't do much, just opened the unit, used some adhesive film to attach really small round plastic bit to the joystick rubber to help reaching the smd part. Actuator wasn't even loose. The rattling went away.... What a mystery. Now everything works. Maybe former owner had fudged the assembly somehow. Thanks again for the guide.

Yup, I ordered one replacement on ebay, got it and it was DOA.. so I ordered another one that never showed up (got full refunds from both sellers), and now I've got a third one on the way. I'll post an article on the blog when I get it, showing the process of replacing the part and the final result. After settling in the repair works pretty good, the only downside is a kind-of-sketcy feeling to the trackpad as it doesn't 'click' when pressing the right side of it..

www.runstenracing.se/?p=4501 It works nicely. ;)