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It's all about doing it your way.

I drive over mine all the time, as long as you take your time and do lots of tapping them into place so the mortar can work its way around and into the pavers it works great. still recommend 4+ inches of concrete.

Yes, as long as you tap them down well the mortar adheres very well to the pavers. If you're going to have the concrete visible you might consider using a coat of mortar on top so the aggregate isn't visible, depending on the look you're after. My thinnest dry pour areas are about 2", no issues yet.

That's a common comment amongst people that are in wet concrete fields. Wet is certainly great for a lot of things however dry pours are becoming very common. It's all about the process. The pad I poured looks just like every wet pour I've done and the strength is comparable according to every fair test I've seen and been a part of.

@@JustDoingMyStuff I have no doubt that it will work for you . I was only referring to paying jobs. I've done quite a few pads around my house and for friends and it holds up just fine using the dry pour method. We do mostly brick pavers and stone work on top of concrete and this definitely speeds up the process and less labor...I find no fault in this. Keep crushing

Make sure you tamp them into the mix well, I hate to admit it but I had one come loose. It's not going anywhere and doesn't feel loose but I'll have a future video with whatever repair I want to try. Everything else is amazing.

@@JustDoingMyStuff Cool! But if you kinda think about it, it only feels loose because the substrate is stiff. Theoretically, all pavers are loose but they don't feel loose because of the soft bedding.

Very true. The nicest part about doing pavers on dry pour if you tamp them in enough the mortar glues itself to the paver essentially making it part of the underlying cement.

No, but good luck on your search.

Nice! Nothing like riding something you brought back to life.

Thank you, hoping to see a lot of people trying this themselves.

Thank you and I agree!

You're

Just used the standard quikcrete complete, includes the aggregate. Our soil here is so hard it takes a pick to make a hole so I didn't need to use a base like AB or class 5. Put down the mix, scree it level. Place the pavers and set them in place and to level with a rubber mallet, not too much force, they will break. That puts mortar between the pavers to hold them in place and prevent soil build up in the cracks. After the assembly was complete I watered lightly, just enough to moisten the top of the cement, twice 1 hour apart. Then watered it well once an hour 4 times. Since rain was forecast for the next few days I let nature take it from there. Normally I'd water it twice per inch once an hour. Advantages are no regular maintenance, I rinse the sediment out once a year in the spring. When it's done it feels like a cement patio but has the paver style without the fake look of rollers or patterns and trying to make stain look natural.

@@JustDoingMyStuff Thank you! It’s a brilliant ruse!

Awesome job sir! I have done a few dry pours myself but this is a good idea to change it up and yet make a solid walkway!

Looks like you already do stuff! This was the first experiment, didn't want to be the only person spreading bad ideas on the interwebs if it didn't work out ;)

Sad part of that story, I never thought of staining the brick. Seen people stain concrete so it maintains it's porosity but, until my wife/decorator told me she was doing the brick it never occurred to me.

Thank you! only took the better part of a week to recover...

Sorry to hear that, and your cousin. Not right. Thank you, it's a lot of fun.

I agree! We are just about finished with a new job and I took video at each step. I will be putting that video up in a few days just wanted to wait till the job was done. It's a path that leads from our patio to that seating area using the same method.

I was wondering if anyone would notice that. when the bed reaches the bottom of the leather the focal point is 1/16" above, perfect for cutting 1/8" material. I can lower it 1/16" for super fine engraving work or 1/4" or more for darker wood engraving with a shallower cut. Super simple and really effective.

It's held up great. I only use this one a few times a week but my last one held up to years of shop use and was still in great shape when I left it for the next people that used that shop. I do recommend it. Too bad HF doesn't sponsor me!

Glad I could be there for you! Thank you for watching and commenting, hopefully my future videos will be as helpful.

I appreciate that! Thank you and hope the reel works perfect for you!

Yes, but depends on what your weight and your application. Pressure washer hose is slightly heavier plus add water weight and hammer. If I were using this for water I would use lag bolts with all holes predrilled and fender washers on the lags holding the board up to the joist. if I were using it often I'd put a 2x6 crossmember laid flat between 2 joists and bolt it with through bolts. Water hammer will pound it out if you give it a chance.

@@JustDoingMyStuff thank you for the feedback i will look into using lag bolts to mount the board to the joist, this will be for personal use at home for pressure washer setup i doubt i will be yanking on the reel more than a couple of times a month

Very nice, there are a lot of styles out there, finding one that you like can give you a direction for future projects. These will end up on a 4x4 with a hanger and a light or 2, to be decided.

Thank you! It's really coming together well, although very slowly. I'd never seen anyone try it with the pavers on the top and couldn't find anything about building this way, but it seemed like the perfect solution. The biggest thing for me is not getting frost in the ground, if you're in a colder area I'd make the cement thicker and maybe put in a metal mesh or rebar.

Thank you! We moved here from Minnesota, there's real soil there. Nice for digging and growing stuff. Our soil here is somewhat like concrete, need a pick axe to make a hole. Our pad ends up being a little over 5 inches since the pavers are concrete, plenty strong to drive over but being raised probably never will, the walkway leading to it, our next pavers on dry pour project, will be driven over. I'll be doing multi parts on that since I've gotten a lot of interest in how to make it able to hold up, using patio pavers, not meant to be driven on but with the concrete base should be plenty strong.

I think you could simply because this isn't affected as much by rain, of course I wouldn't recommend doing it in the rain or if it's going to rain a lot within a couple hours...

Didn't water until everything was built then watered the whole assembly just enough that it was wet. After an hour I watered it lightly again. An hour later I watered it so there was standing water. Did that 5 more times then let normal rainfall take it from there. Didn't walk on it for a few hours after the last watering and it felt solid. If you do it let me know how it goes. Going to put out a few videos doing the walkway up to it with more information.

@@JustDoingMyStuff I dry poured a set of 7 outdoor steps. Want to do a patio for my tenant, and a walkway this spring. Still have a lil snow here.

Then just water it like a dry pour after the first 4 waterings, I have a small dry pour pad and we'll be doing a large pad on the right side of our patio when facing the back of the house. Only real difference is using a rubber mallet to set the pavers for level instead of screeding and to work the mortar into the pores of the pavers so they lock down. You'll find this is even easier than a dry pour pad... or steps.

Thank you! Love our yard!

Couldn't agree more, function before fashion

I used a metal board in my bike shop for my large tools, they're good and strong. Having an organized space makes me feel more like being productive.

You absolutely can!

@@JustDoingMyStuffYour video was inspirational and I did the exact same thing with the Merlin. Worked great and I was able to put it up solo last night. Thanks for the detailed explanation.

My pleasure, glad you did it, amazing what we can do if we just do it instead of talking ourselves out of it.

If It's open on the back side of the plywood I'd use a 1/2" x 1" lag bolt. If you use a stout washer you'll get great grip without going thru too far, pretty close to 1/8". Thank you!

The pavers are also concrete so porous. I did a couple light waterings so the water running between the cracks didn't carry all the mortar down leaving the aggregate on the top and the whole assembly loose. Put the pavers on top of the dry concrete, tap with a rubber mallet to work it into the bottom of the pavers, water lightly twice for the mix in the cracks, then water enough that water pools on top twice per inch of dry mix letting it dry for at least an hour between waterings. It was easy to level, scree a bunch to get powder to the top. Don't overwater, the water does go through the pavers and will set up your mix.

Awesome! Thank you!

Thank you.

Biggest question is your climate. Everyone has these on their trucks here in AZ, even in areas that get snow. I'd try to keep it out of the salt but we used them inside boxes on service trucks in Minnesota. I wouldn't use a more expensive one myself.

I built the pad up to level and have a slight slope on the pour and pavers for water run off. Started at about 3.5 inches and ended at about 2 inches. Add the thickness of the pavers and the patio should be strong enough to drive on. Used my long level to get the right grade and a rubber mallet to set the pavers.

Good find. I like the Warrior for going out and exploring the high dessert here in Arizona, plenty of power, good suspension, and light enough to do pretty serious side hills without getting too nervous. Would like to find a 2 stroke mid to late 90's racer to play with, going to be 60 in a couple years, gotta play while I still can.

@@JustDoingMyStuff yeah, they are cool quads i used to have a honda trx300ex but it started leaking oil and needed case welding (i put some jb weld on it and sold it) do miss it those honda trx300ex are fun lil quads light short and fun, but i hate leaking engines i could fix it but that takes times and i already bought a cheap raptor 350. they are not bad quads. but i do like the look more of the warrior the classic yamaha look i got a banshee 350 also 1988 all stock engine frame etc (or atleast i got all stock parts gold rims and tyres as extra) but the raptor/warrior 350 is different ride type. i like both but for me foret riding the 4 stroke is easier. i can imagine deserts rides are fun never rode on sand, i seen alot of youtuber doing videos in the dessert looks so fun :) ah yeah gotta try and play with toys while you can. i usual buy cheap quads play with them and sell them or keep them and sell my other quad.

That's awesome. Used to ride a buddy's Honda 250R with a 310 kit, it was a blast but no where to ride. This one started life as a racer, 2 years, then sold to a guy that gave it to his kids. Looking for more projects, I always enjoy bringing old junk back to life.

Used to own a motorcycle shop, needed good tools then it stuck... Except the harbor freight stuff.

55. It's commercial so not as inexpensive to run but heats water faster than its used.