Видео

@@nishaldisilva7658 80% paraffin wax 20% bees wax. Paraffin wax you can get at hobby lobby or Amazon and bees wax should be filtered and comes in little bars or pellets use a mason jar with measurements on it melt paraffin wax to your 80% mark and add bees wax until u hit the 100 percent mark all true measurements are only accurate when wax it completely melted.

On the mojo tone winder it takes me 7 to 8.5 minutes. Hope that helps.

@@koenkeguitars2534 It does. Thank you.

Thanks Victor, and good luck. Read some of the other comments on this video. I was asked a lot of questions that i answered that you may also have.

Thank you very much for answering. I was referring to how many turns of 42awg heavy formvar wire a standard stratocaster coil can hold at most. Thank you.

The concave shape on a single coil bobbin will distort the flat work. However, on the plastic humbucker bobbin doing a concave shape will have no effect on the bobbin because the bobbin is rigid plastic. You should experiment with all the variables in pickup making to find the sound you are looking for. I do know, that some of the PAF humbuckers even had lopsided wound bobbins. That may be something you may want to experiment with.

@@koenkeguitars2534 Yes, so many variables. You can even hear a difference between brass vs steel bobbin mounting screws on a PAF. It's possible to have concave on a plastic single coil bobbin, the type you find in MIM Fender pickups and most cheap overseas single coils.

I charge my magnets by hand not on a machine. Degaussing is not necessary just don’t charge them up all the way and it does change the sound. Although this video is very transparent with my process, I feel my gaussing process is a very important part of my process and not something I’m willing to divulge at this point but it is a very important in building a pickup it effects tone, inductance and how hard a pickup hits your amp. So, saying that please experiment and find the sound you are looking for try different magnet heights mixing magnets within a single pickup etc.. however, that will be your personal journey. I am constantly experimenting!

Glad you enjoyed it! Hope you learned something from it.

@@koenkeguitars2534 Been playing guitar for 56 years now (started when I was five, I'm old lol). Have a workshop, do some restorations and am always the one my friends bring their guitar to for a clean set-up, etc. Recently went down the rabbit hole, on pickup #8 now and yes, everything you said reinforced exactly what I've been learning. The delivery and style of the vid also, top notch. Subscribed and look forward to more!

Thanks, glad I could help!

Classic 50’s strat pickups are in the 5.4 to 5.7 K. The more resistance, the more high end frequencies you wind out. Reason being the more winds increases the capacitance and increasing the capacitance sends more high end frequencies to ground. So wingding a pickup in the 5.4 to 5.7 will give the pickup the illusion of a midrange scoop because there is more high end presence. Try a pickup at 7100 winds it will get you near the 5.4 range one at 7500 5.7 range and one at 7900 around 6 K. The 5.4 will sound more scooped 5.7 more balanced and 6k more fat. Tightness of the coil will effect sound also as well as shape of the coil and the space between the bobbin. Standard bobbin spacing on a strat is .440 inch. If you wind the pickup less than 5.4 the pickup will sound weak. Remember, the more winds you put on a strat pickup the less of a bulge like shape you can do because you may not be able to get the pickup cover on. Any more frequency changes you desire, you will have to wire capacitors and resistors into the circuit or from the hot wire to ground on the bobbin. Hope this helps!

​​@@koenkeguitars2534Thank you so much. I read her response as soon as he posted it. Please, the last thing. Between 5.4K to 5.7K are low resistance values. On a Stratocaster with a rosewood fretboard, won't 5.4K for the neck sound very bright and thin considering the mid frequencies will be a little scooped?. Thank you so much.

I did not mean wind a set at 5.4 5.7 and 6 k. What i meant was wind three pickups at those values put them in the same position and listen to the difference. Also A5 magnets give a bit of a mid scoop naturally A2 magnets have less high end and low end snap.

​@@koenkeguitars2534Thank you very much for answering. Yes, I understood it in that sense, not so that the set has those values. I want the neck and middle to be bit scooped and that alnico 5 with heavy formvar 42awg is necessarily used. My question is: what should the value of the neck be so that it is scooped but at the same time not harsh or thin?. I know that resistance adds almost nothing to the tone; however, it is a good starting point to get an idea of what it will sound like. I also know that sound is subjective, but, is there a sweet spot for what I want?. Thanks for answering.

My suggestion is, the lower the resistance the more highs are left dont go below 5.4 k. It gives the illusion of scooped mids. Also,flat pole piece strat pickups have a more mid scooped sound because the magnets are further away from the middle strings. Those are really the only things you can do or do A5s on the E A B and E and A2 s on the D and G or do flat pole piece with a mix of magnets. Resistance is a marker for capacitance the more resistance the more capacitance the more capacitance the more highs get rolled off. The strength of the magnet is the power of the pickup. So if you want less emphasis on the mids you need less magnetism on the mids. Power of different alnico magnets go in this order strongest to weakest A5, A2, A3. Good luck finding A3 magnets for strats. Hope this helps!

Great you are a natural! Im so happy you enjoy the sound of your pickups.To go through all the variables it takes a while. Winding a clean coil is only one variable. Magnet type, bobbin spacing,gauss levels coil tightness, wire insulation, potting time and material, resistance, inductance and capacitance all change the sound of the pickup. So keep that in mind and keep winding

@@koenkeguitars2534 All these things are not important. It's just a bunch of wire and a magnet.

Thank you, it means a lot!

I’m sorry I don’t understand your comment. Maybe you can elaborate a little more so I can understand.

Thank you

Thank you!

I may do a quick video on how to mount the wire and guide. I have been asked this question several times.

Just saw this 10 months later sorry. You need one pickup to have a north polarity wound in one direction and the other pickup South polarity wound in the opposite direction and they will cancel hum. If you are under neon or fluorescent lights you will hear a hum. Also if the bridge isn’t grounded you will hear a hum. If the bridge is grounded the only time the hum stops is when you are touching the strings.

Never, if it is sugar maple. However, sugar maple is the only wood I have installed them into. I always make sure they are counter sunk about a 1/16th of an inch. As long as you don’t strip out the wooden threads while tapping the wood by bottoming out in the hole you drilled and don’t ever glue them in they are meant to be replaced if you cross thread the screw into the insert. You will not have a problem. If you have any questions. Please respond to my response. Ps. Are you using a real vintique neck kit or some other type of inserts? Because not all inserts are of the same caliber.

@@koenkeguitars2534 I was using some generic ones. I tried the links . No one seems to have those. But thank you very much for replying to me! really appreciate your thorough and thoughtful reply. P.S. Maximum guitar works has a pretty good video on using those as well. He was using stainlees steel His method was similar to yours in that he counter sunk them as well.

Angela instruments has the neck kit. Just look up vintique neck kit in the search box it’s the first thing that comes up. The neck plate is thicker than the fender neck plate and will keep you from chipping the paint because the corners of the plate will not bend.

@@koenkeguitars2534 Found it. Thanks a lot!

Thanks for your constructive feedback. I do agree that the winding part of the video could be closer but that would require a cameraman. I’m not there yet. The way the camera was set up it was right over my right shoulder and I even accidentally hit it during the video. Being that the wire is so tiny and the winder is spinning so fast seeing the wire going onto the bobbin is impossible with the camera on my phone. You said you didn’t understand the beginning of the video let me know what you didn’t understand and I may be able to answer your questions.

All the work learning to do it isn’t on the video it would be in the 1000 hr range. Lol. Thanks for watching George!

Thanks Harry, lol!

Thanks you so much! this restoration is a ton of work.

Grandpa would be so proud of you and the artistry, you have a creative talent with Wood!

Very mouldy lol

Thanks for the kind words, I try my best!

Hi Olivia

@@koenkeguitars2534 hiiiiiiiiii

Hi

Thanks for the support should be a new video every week this is a very in depth project with many steps basically remaking half of the guitar. Back sides neck set, refret, refinishing.

Thanks for the support and subscription. Trying to put up a new video every week, I have a ton of footage of this project, my wife has been editing the videos.

Thanks for the support it means a lot. Should be a new video every week!

Thanks Ian! This project is a lot of work, but I’m getting a ton of good footage of all aspects of this process.