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Indeed, he needed a new ECU. I'm 100% this guy had it modified too. He also got stock mufflers because these were horrible straight pipe stuff. Luckily nothing else looks modified, except the gunk amount of rtv on the timing chain cover. Now finally it runs great / normal.

Glad you enjoyed the video! 😁

15x8 +35 4x100 225 45 R15

Turn two is awesome! Honestly the whole track is 😁Wish I wouldn't live 6 hours away

Thank you!

P0300, random misfire and once did a P0302 cyl n2 misfire. Ended up being a bad ecu. Been tuned and they messed with it trying to put it back stock.

It's in Cerritos, by 91 and 605 fwy. We do full suspension refresh jobs also.

Ended up being a bad ecu.

2015, wrx, no mods stock. Ended up being the ecu and the mechanical timing was a teeth off. Someone messed with the motor but didn't put it back stock right.

It was tuned prior.. my nephew ended up getting a new ecu and it's good now.

@ good to hear, my bad I didn’t even see the other comments lol. Oil change every 3k!!! I’m at 230k km at 310lb torque and 315awhp. It’ll stay running forever if you treat it right

@@tannermiddleton8811 Personally I do my oil changes at every 3k. On all my cars! Sadly the previous owner did close to 10k changes I think.

We ended up taking it to a tuner, and it needs a new ecu. :/

Indeed but it will ruin his motor eventually i feel like.

Needed a new ECU. The previous owners messed with it too much.

@@pduh42 how did you find out it was the ECU?

Glad you felt that way. 😁

Thank you so much. Indeed had a fantastic time and I needed this trip.

We are actually looking for a tuner and see if it has to do anything with a tune. I haven't looked into the TGV. Thank you

I see. That very much makes sense now! So the next step technically would be a coolant tester kit for head gasket. What do you think, compression test was fine, but a cylinder leak down would show me more? Thank you so much for the help and knowledge. I appreciate it a lot 👍

Interesting, I was assuming the car was tuned prior with aftermarket things on it. We had the exact same with the p0300 but it's not continuously doing it. Just rarely when it's really rough. We check the Maf, new filter, new plugs, we did a compression test also which was good. What I'm thinking is, the car doesn't get enough air at startup, so it dumps a lot of fuel but it doesn't burn. Wonder if we try to take off the intake partially. Meaning like a cold air, see if more air is the issue. Wonder if its like a tune thing. Someone said the VVTC solenoid might be clogged, but not sure if that would affect idle.

I was also told it could be a tune issue. and the back firing is called stratified fueling, I guess what it’s doing is trying to break down carbon build up, but honestly not sure. I was told by a mechanic i brought it too is that it could be the piston ringlands not sealing up properly, but if you by chance find the fix definitely keep updated cause it seems to be a problem no one has told me what the fix is, and subaru themselves ain’t helpful either 😂

@@gianttaku1785 I see, wonder if anyone would de tune this, so it doesn't dump as much fuel and it's not as bad of a backfire. I would think with ringland issue, wouldn't it lose compression? Wonder if a cylinder leakdown test would show that issue better. Yup, the dealer pretty much just send us away.. lol

I'll do, the dealer that sold the car says it passes smog, but I think it was tuned with cobb, and when they put it back to stock didn't do it right. It still thinks it has the cold air intake and dumps fuel. Someone told me they might've closed the vtcs solenoid. I didn't really have time to dig into it. Also we need to get an access port.. I'm familiar with subaru suspensions and did some light motor work on them. I'm just worried it will damage his motor overtime.

@@pduh42 I think if we deal with it now, it won't be a long-term problem, so it won't damage the engine. I cleaned the PCV, I also want to clean the IACV, but so far the smut on them was so minimal that I don't think it would be bigger on the others. The oxygen sensor should still be checked or replaced, it can produce such a fault.

@@kennynever I was also thinking the IACV. The sensors on this car look new so I think they've been replaced. I did see that the service record on this car shows 10k mile oil changes. Someone told me these motors run well with 4 5 k mile interval changes. How many miles you got on yours? This one has 100k

​@@pduh42 Mine has 236,121 miles :D This is a '97 legacy outback grand wagon 2.5 gx awd with a manual transmission. The cylinder head was renewed 62,000 miles ago, someone says that this should be done every 60,000 miles, but I don't see any signs that I should touch it, it works well. I have also read on the suby forum that once the factory cylinder head gasket is replaced and done properly, there will never be a problem with it. My oil is also relatively fresh, although I want to change it this year, but even the color is good.

@@kennynever Time is also a factor with oil, I'd recommend changing it twice a year at least but once. That's a nice milage, my e34 has 270k. Those outbacks are dope! Wagons be🔥 I will keep you posted what we find on his car.

Car is bone stock besides the axle back exhaust. :)

Yes they will train you on site. It's pretty straight forward. You got this! :)

@@pduh42 Awesome, thank you

The car drives fine though, how could that be injector issue? I mean it never does it anytime besides cold starts. Car drives fine, no pops at all. I could get them rebuilt at Rc 🤔

Thank you so much for the knowledge. I was thinking the same, we are trying to find a good tuner.

@@pduh42 Are you looking for a cobb tuner, ecutek or ecuedit? I tune subarus but I don't use cobb or ecutek.

@@alexm8662 I would say most likely it was cobb, but the problem is we have no idea what it was tuned on. Then they tuned it back to stock but that base cold start is still on the tuned settings. Since the O2's are new.. My nephew called the (small)dealer who sold the car. They said it passes smog. Can't be tuned, but when they brought the car to the test drive. Or when he bought it, they said they took it to wash it. No way the wouldn't notice this at the dealer 😂 You start the car cold it does this.

@@alexm8662 Would there be a way we could check what it was on? Is that possible?

I actually use the Reverse Roll Center True heart outer tie rods.

@@pduh42 in the event of using oem?

@@FlipSideGarage You asked a good question. So I wasn't sure how to look it up, since I worked on countless integras with doing all the suspension rebuild but not EG's. I was trying to find the specs but couldn't. I'm thinking worst case you can swap the integra outer onto the eg inners. but..

@@FlipSideGarage Look what I found to answer it. jhpusa.com/products/hardrace-outer-tie-rod-ends-oe-style-92-00-civic-94-01-integra?srsltid=AfmBOooelMoWgVw5tD5NeqTfAK0auvEvYj1dzXRRqUcYrwysqqPg9JI_ If you look at the fitments, these fit both. Meaning the the ball joint tapered shaft part is same size and also the inner tie rod diameter and thread is the same. So either or should work. But if you are low those aftermarket outers help a lot with bumpsteer feel.

Thank you.

We don't know if it ran fine before.. since he only had the car for 2 3 weeks. The start up was funky but lately it's been like this all the time. Car was most likely tuned since has modified headlights, lowering springs dude had a sub in the back. No vacuum leak, there is no fluctuation on the rpm gauge. Also runs fine, responsive and got power. Dying pump would lack power or do the misfire while driving. Someone did mention that they could've turned the air pump off.

@@pduh42 really wanna see you try o2 sensor, It controls fuel being added or taken out heavily on cold starts.

By o2, I mean the front AF sensor in the header. Doing that and the rear at the same time is ideal

@@TMTFish They are fairly new, maybe like thousand ish miles on them. (Has some service records) The used car dealer who sold it kept saying they smogged it and it passed. Wouldn't also the bad o2 cause it run rougher? Someone said air valve might be closed or clogged. What do you think, could that be?

I'm thinking it was tuned, then put back to stock.

Did that and live data. It only got a p0300 once at a start up. I changed spark plugs, checked coil packs, coil pack wiring, sensor wiring(o2s look new or replaced not too long ago) The idle is fine once it's warmed up, no fluctuation doesn't feel like it's a vacuum leak. Car runs wonderful besides the start up. I highly likely think it's his tune, and the guy had a cobb or something like that on it.

Ended up being the ECU.

My nephew is bone stock haha.. No ethanol for him. I was thinking it's the tune also. I was just not sure since the car runs and drives fine besides these cold starts. Damn 500hp is awesome, thing gotta rip. We will take it to a tuner soon.

I’m also making 500hp and my subie sounds like a rx7 on cold starts with e85. I occasionally get roughness in cylinder 2 but only on idle when cold starting. It clears up and sounds quite when fully warmed up.

It's not that bad haha.. I just didn't see a video about something like this.

Car is bone stock and everyone confirms me on that it's the tune. Also the car runs fine other than this startup. Also it's just an axle back exhaust. (He will replace it with a non ebay one soon.) Also I scanned it it was a p0300 and only had that code once. When I guess it was going too crazy. Replaced spark plugs, inspected coil packs, wiring, inspected the piping for leaks. I wouldn't thought of checking the good power to the injectors though. ;) We will have to take it to a tuner and see what they see. I think the previous owner when they put it back to stock. Didn't to it right so it still have this warmup fuel dumping map on it. Thank you for all the tips and knowledge! Cheers man

@@pduh42 If you haven't already, I would check the MAF sensor like fuccos recommended. I have a 21 wrx with a protune. Before I took it in it was having major idle issues, I coudln't even stop at a red light without it dying unless I kept the rpms above 700. I ran into the same issues after the tune about 2 weeks later so I looked into the MAF sensor. It got bad enough that if I tried to do a wide open pull it was like the car was surging... Like it wanted to accelerate but was holding back, which was alarming as fuck and it also threw a few sensor codes that same night for running lean and what not. I cleaned the MAF sensor and reset the ECU and almost immediately all of my issues were gone. A can costs about $10 and it's very easy to do yourself.

@@gencon1918 See, he has none of those issues and it idles just fine. I looked at the maf and it's sparkling clean. This only happens basically for 30 seconds on cold startup.

@@pduh42 He may not have the same exact issues as I had, but with that many miles I'm assuming that the MAF hasn't been cleaned in a minute. It's something you should do at least every six months. It may look clean, just like mine did, but immediately after cleaning it all my issues were gone. My tuner said some of his customers have to clean theirs regularly. about once a month... Your intake will suck in a lot more dirt/particles and what not if you're traveling down dirt roads, or frequent driving in general. Let me know if you guys get it fixed. I like to know all the weird shit people run into with these cars lol

@@gencon1918 Ended up being the ECU. Previous owner messed with it too much.

Called subaru if we can do a factory tune on it, but they didn't want to do it. We will take it to this aftermarket subaru shop who does tunes.

I always let it drain as much as possible. Also the video is edited, nobody is going to watch the oil drain. Not everyone is skilled or willing to do that. I did these oil changes in 15 minute. Now I got at least an hour, plus if the cars have additional coolers.

Customers also complain sometimes why it's not done yet.. that's why you don't let it drain dry like you can with something on the driveway. Can't please anybody, hit me up if you strip your pan. I fix it for you friend ;)

@@pduh42 LOL. Yeah, I definitely know what you mean. You only change your oil like every 5000-10000 miles so why does it have to be in 15 minutes or less? I guess Valvoline wants to do as many as possible, so they are partly to blame. I actually use an oil extractor to do my oil change. It's so easy and I get like 1/4 quart more oil out that way as the sump drains 7.75 quarts but you actually extract 8 quarts. But I have an Audi and they are designed for a top side oil change. If you have an American or Japanese car with an oil filter underneath the car, it makes less sense to change it that way. I will let you know if I ever need your help;)

@@rosslarkin6742 Personally I do every 3000. 2 Japanese and 1 German car but it's a 92 e34. Valvoline recommends every 5k if I remember correct. I'm not a fan of extractors but I do know VW's and Audis some Benz's use those. I trust the oldschool drain bolt the most. Also at work we do a ton of Japanese and Germans cars. Just did a G wagon friday :) also an S2000 all the fluids. I love that I have a lot more time, and I can get snacks until it drains fully out. Tip; Always check the hose of the extractor for signs of age or damage. (seen a case where it broke into the dipstick tube)

@@pduh42 do you still work for Valvoline? And people bring G-wagens there? I didn't know the Valvoline instant oil change places carried the European oils. I always figured they carried the usual 5W-30, 5W-20, 0W-20 conventional, synthetic blend, full synthetic in those big drums for most domestic/asian cars as well as 15W-40 for diesel trucks, but not the European 5W-40 and 0W-20 and 0W-30 with the BMW, MB and VW/Porsche approvals. I use the Valvoline European Full Synthetic 0W-20 in my Audi SQ5 since it is approved for VW 508/509. But it only comes in the 1 quart bottle, not the 5 quart bottle so it is a bit expensive. But still costs me less than if I brought it to the Valvoline instant oil change to do it.

Thank you so much! Hard work and lots of luck too 😅