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Can you do the club house if you havent all ready as my grandads book was burnt in a small fire

Ive got some but dont know how to use it so thanks

Is that building kit size 'OO'/HO'' Scale?

Great to see this... I had a Bayko set as a kid... late 50s? The video took me right back there!! Well done! :)

cool

Like it 🎉

I just bought one of these the special version and I am wanting to shoot with thanks for adding to the library of content of this camera I watched part two first hopefully mine is is good shape and I will add to my video the the RUclips library soon

I have just started photography courses in Art School and is learning to make pinhole camera from boxes and tin. I would like to make a large format wooden box later. Thank you for sharing your video

I believe your voice is only coming out of the left speaker channel in this video, unfortunately. I still enjoyed it despite that small technical difficulty, thank you for the video.

Excellent idea to recycle old camera chassis, thanks for sharing, I hope to see results, Greetings from Chile

Great video! I'm thinking of making a large format wooden box camera and this is really helpful. Thanks

I watched this a while ago, but never left a comment but here goes: Thanks for this video. It helped me get my tiny darkroom started, as I had gotten this exact enlarger from eBay! I have since graduated to an older Meopta Optemus, but this small enlarger was perfect to get started in the limited space I have available. The tip about the bicycle LED light as a safe light was also instantly useful!

I asked an art shop about painting the bellows acrylic paint mixed with a small amount of PVA glue was suggested it made a nice job and sealed the many light leaks I haven't tried using the camera yet. When using a Stanly knife a steel rule is not the best idea a piece of 1" x .125" aluminium T section is much better your fingers are safe behind the upright

I took an orphaned 1915 VPK lens and adapted it to an M42 billows for use on my 35mm film camera. I can focus from infinity down to about 6 inches with the lens on "T" so I can use my cameras shutter and the through the lens meter (also a flash if I want). I will be using Ilford Ortho Plus 80 because it mimics the limited spectrum films of period for authenticity. On the plus side, no need to hunt down 127 film. It is not red sensitive, exactly like the original films used during the war. I don't know of any WW1 reenactments near me hear in the US but I will use it at vintage car shows and aviation shows. My dream is to take this setup to the Goodwood Revival (historic races each September) in the UK were people dress in period clothes and vintage planes do flyovers. Thanks for the and inspiration!

I'm confused. Is this video about your stay in a hospital or about cameras? I came to hear a comparison between the Nikon and Pentax and left with nothing. Please try again.

Be mindful close to the eye piece got fluid in between the eye piece and prism and had to remove the whole top and eye piece to clean

Light sealing not just need s removing it needs replacement Or light leakage will almost certainly result But if you clear the old seals and haven't time to replace and you want to load film just tape the camera up. It's fairly easy to do the replacement yourself If in doubt someone might do it for you I bought an OM10 from a dealer and he did the seals as part of a deal which was good

Didn't really get what you were doing with two cameras.

Mad story about sleeping rough and build the enlarger. Looking forward for part 3.

“Bulb” refers to a bulb operated cable release. Some early cable releases had a rubber bulb on the end, which you squeezed to fire the shutter. A bit like the horn on a vintage car.

Could you scan the instructions manual and put it on the Internet Archive?

What was the wattage of the bulb you used for the exposure?

I have an Olimpus OM 10 camera. The battery is getting hot and it doesn't last at all. Do you know why this is happening? Thank you

Thank you for this very fascinating video! What an awesome device and technique. And thanks for the marble tip. Last year, I had to move and was unable to get a darkroom ready until recently. Of course, my opened bottle of paper developer was of no use. I now know what to do in the future.

Post-it-notes, instead of masking tape. It works great, and seems to leave no discernable residue. In most major cities, you can find someone that will "CLA" and redo your light seals for a pretty reasonable fee. They have a shop, tools, parts, good lighting and the experience to do the job right. I've never had to wait more then a few days to get these little jobs done. For me it's well worth the money just to have a beautifully CLEAN and CLEAR view finder/focusing screen! Cheers.

The diaphragm numbers on old Kodaks is called the "U.S. system". Here are their equivalents in traditional f/stops (U.S. / f-stop): 1=f/4; 2= f/5.6; 4=f/8; 8=f/11; 16=f/16. If you forget, you can use "16" to calibrate everything in your head.

Very good demonstration!

Brilliant! I will be trying this myself! I have almost the same Johnson box enlarger as your other video. I’m planning on developing the prints in caffenol also, have you tried this? Do you think the same mixture will work? Thanks!

Thank you for sharing this.

They look fabulous, I particularly like the shutter arrangement on the all black one, I just might pinch that idea.

You also can spray some from a lighter gas can into the bottles with developer, it's heavier than oxygen. The oxygen will then not come in contact with the developer. There's also a special protection spray from Tetenal, wich works the same. BTW, both are flammable.

Nice video what other topics will you be covering ?

What a great idea, stuck at home could do with a fun project to try ! and i think i have all the items needed already. Where did you get the camera from?