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Good idea :) Personally, 1) don't have a drill press and 2) I'm so used to carving in general that I probably wouldn't have thought of your suggestion anyway. My go-to has always been a four-in-hand and a pocket knife -- I've also hand carved small piano parts that are no longer available due to the age of the piano.

There is no "part 2". Repair is essentially finished. Next step is to let sit for 24 hours then take off clamp and re-string.

Glad it was helpful! If you run into any issues let me know.

Allied Supply

But you might find a set online.

Check online -- Amazon might have something. But really any kind of rod will work -- I will often simply use a wooden dowel. Doesn't really have to flex as you aren't driving it in far enough to have to make a curve (and it doesn't flex that much anyway).

Glad it was helpful!

fingernail file or emery board. Light sanding will do the job.

Thank you!

Thank you -- stay tuned for parts 2 and 3 :)

I guess it is pretty off topic but does anyone know of a good site to stream newly released movies online ?

@Kyng Roman Flixportal :)

@Judah Dario thanks, signed up and it seems like they got a lot of movies there :D I appreciate it!!

@Kyng Roman You are welcome xD

Glad to help

Exactly -- using Method 2 as described. The hair straightener goes on the butt to heat the glue. The extractor pushes against the butt -- though you can also VERY CAREFULLY apply a light twisting to the hammer which will turn the shank in the butt. Note I said VERY CAREFULLY because the shank can break doing this. Tiny little wobbles if you don't have an extractor. Be patient -----------

There’s a book by Reg Thorpe on woodwind repair that’s good. It’s very pricy though!

@@amberherrod6163 thank you! I'll check it out!

Glad it was helpful!

instrument is not "banging and knocking around" And often times a repair bench may have more than one project underway at any given time. No, its not the neatest thing but I always make certain that there is enough space clear for the instrument that is being worked on.

@@richardhannemann4594 Sorry to sound harsh but it scares me to death everyone to their own i suppose.

@@richardhannemann4594 Great video! I bought a broken mandolin for 5 bucks . looked really good, except for a break the same as yours. strings were still on, and the neck was warped outwards below the 12 th fret, which is where it was glued to the front of the body. It was warped, but I managed to reset, and it was good for a year. Came apart again , and the outwards warp is very visible and not playable. I took it apart, but how can I remove or reduce the warp outwards ? Thank you for a reply !!

I know, right ? This is not normal folks ... make sure you put a rug or piece of carpet on the work bench before you start .... also clean up your bench before you start anything... The very last thing I would want to do is to have someone bring me a. Original Loar mandolin... Or even a newer $6000 mandolin that didn't have a mark on it .. and it leave my shop all scratched up ...Thus turning a $6000 Mandolin into a $3000 mandolin... that'd suck for me and the customer..... The guy is quite knowledgeable.... its just that he's a little haphazard in keeping his bench clean and scratch free...

@@thefreese1 Take a closer look -- there is a flute in progress as well. As I am the only repair tech in my county, I usually have more than one project going on at a time. Hence the "clutter". But I always make certain the actual work area is sufficient to the size of the instrument being worked on and is free of dust and etc. And after 16 years I have yet to have a ding or scratch on any instrument I've worked on.

Bakelite -- came out around 1947 ish and everyone started using it in pianos -- it was cheaper and thought to last longer. Turns out it crumbles after about 50 years or so.

Unsolder the slide bow. It can be done with the slides still on but the length of the slide makes it difficult to do otherwise. Also -- you will want to take off the pip -- usually it is attached to its own little brass plate which will also be pretty bent up. If you leave it on you will be trying to get the dent out of a double thickness of brass and that just doesn't work very well.

@@richardhannemann4594 alright! thank you for your detailed reply and answer. could i ask if heating the tubing and join with a torch could stiffening/harden the brass or ruin it in some way?

@@Francois_Dupont Shouldn't be a problem -- I use a propane torch.

Cosmetic is a dent that is mostly on the surface and hasn't pushed into the tube. These are usually tiny dings rather than dents. If the ding/dent has pushed into the tube it will impact the air flow and, hence, the tuning and should be removed.

@@richardhannemann4594 thank you, appreciate it!

Got mine from Allied Supply, but they don't deal direct to the public.

@@richardhannemann4594 Hm. Could I order one from you?

@@bikfoot you can also make one with brass stock silver soldered to a plumber's snake

@@1090yoyo ah, thank you! answered my question!

e-mail me about this -- you can also use the "contact us" page on my website.

I believe you are suffering from CRANIAL RECTAL INVERSION, I think you should check your condition with a Proctologist.

I know I am smart ass. However, I suffering from lack of fel la tio, would you do the honors?

The bladder is the thin skin (usually fish skin) that covers the entire pad. Under the bladder is a piece of felt and under that -- the base -- is usually a piece of cardboard. When prepping the pad make certain you poke a small hole with a needle in the side of the pad to allow any gasses to escape.

paypal. e-mail me with the sizes since all brands are lightly different -- measure the INSIDE of the cup (outside is for clarinets)

Amazon has several pad sets but keep in mind that different flute brands have different pad sizes. Also check JLSmith and Feree's. And you can also get them from me.

Gemeinhardt has a good reputation for making quality instruments. The fish skin I mention is the full bladder material which covers the felt part of the pad. The pad is made of a stiff backing, felt, and then the bladder material which cover the whole thing. It is the flat stiff backing that goes into the cup. As to pads -- I get mine from Allied Supply but you have to be a tech or music store owner to do business with them -- same is probably true of JLSmith and Ferrees. Not certain what's out there for the general public. You don't want rubber pads -- I've seen them, even used them, and don't particularly like them. I do sell pads but I would need to know the sizes of the pads wanted.

And thank you for subscribing :) I hope you also enjoy the music videos posted -- I'll be doing more of those as the year progresses :)

Hi Richard, I greatly appreciate your offer. As soon as it arrives I will measure the cups and pads then contact you with the dimensions. I just saw your video last night and subscribed instantly. I haven’t had a chance to watch any of your other videos yet, but I will be this evening. Thank you again!

Allied Supply

Allied Supply

No -- you don't shrink pads, you do, however, heat seat them. Screw the washer down tight. Again, seta the pads after they are installed.

Have fun doing the deed. First couple of tries might not work out so well but you should be fine. Let me know if you run into any difficulties not covered in the video

@@richardhannemann4594 Greetings. Thank you so very much for your kind reply. I did get started, and you are correct about the learning curve. What I did not understand was the application of contact cement and waiting until the two parts to join are at a certain degree of dryness, but not dry. Although I waited a certain amount of time, our wet weather was not enough time to dry to the point to do so. I had no idea about that, so once I started sanding on the cork it shifted a little, but it was still not a lost cause, so I think after some time of letting it dry, it did seem to hold properly. I am so surprised on how much I have had to sand down thus far. In my case, the cork sits in a groove on both sides, so I think by the time it was glued and hammered it got larger, so it hung over one edge, which also worked out now due to sanding it and trimming it properly. Also, since this is wooden, I am going very slowly as to how far to sand down as I don't want to stress the wood with pressure (when I am testing the fit). Trying to find the balance where I can say, it is enough is where I am now treading very carefully/slowly. I do have a different cork question. I want to make a piece of cork into/in place of a pad on an old metal instrument (I think it needs this to form a thicker and better seal--(and I am wondering if cork may have been the original pad as well--since it seems like it needs a thicker thickness there as well to work properly), and I found some amazing high quality type corks from a new craft store here-- that inserts into bottles, perhaps for decorative purposes. I would like to ask...how does one cut one of these into perhaps three or more pieces and then form a piece into a pad shape? A razor? I am not sure. They are not those big corks but not those tiny ones either. Medium sized and they seem dense and solid and a very light color, nothing like darker crude cork made for bulletin boards. This is quite new to me. Thanks so very much for your time. I hope you are having a lovely day. Thank you for everything. God bless you in Jesus' Name.

Its a caliper -- this one is a digital caliper which will measure outside and inside diameter and depth in fractions, millimeters, or thousands of an inch. You can usually find these at your local hardware store.

Thank you

Cheaper to replace only the jack and flange. At the moment I'm looking at the Schaff price list from 014 (the last time they printed one -- now I have to go online to get current prices) but prices haven't really gone up much since then. So, as a price guide a whippen assembly was 5.95 ea where as a jack/flange assembly was 1.76 ea. Remember that the whippen assembly includes whippen, whippen flange, spoon, backcheck, bridle wire, Jack and jack flange, and jack spring. That's a lot of parts most of which might not need to be replaced. What WILL need to be replaced is the Bakelite stuff and which parts that is will vary from piano to piano. On the Jesse French I did it included as well the damper flanges. Yet on another piano (different make, same age) it was only the damper flanges -- the whippen assembly was all wood. If the whippen itself is Bakelite and the jack and the two flanges are also Bakelite, then, yeah, replace the whole assembly. Other wise replace parts only as needed. :)

PS -- if doing this for a customer don't charge more than 40% over cost for parts -- you're gonna get the bulk of your pay from the time involved in doing the work.

Sorry, one other thing. You should really get a center pin tool for removing and setting center pins. Goes quicker. I snagged a re-pinning tool from Schaff Piano, part # 5501, for about $40. Amazing dual action gadget. Looks like one of those finger exercisers -- spring loaded squeeze handle.

Thank you so much for the help, I really look forward to starting this project.