Видео

I use an auxiliairy cable in the auxiliairy port. Works with Android only

@@csgtt yes. Thanks for your support

@@csgtt 1- i identified the key prior to starting the procedure with key tool max & took a picture of it as to not be confused later on. 2- that is correct; the key needed sync to the car which is why it was not first recognized. Upon doing so, all operation resumed. 3- correct, this is an aftermarket key fcc part# ending in 147 (prox) vs 123 (semi-prox); fob was purchased from one of my local US supplier & kept in stock for the past 6 months to prevent unavailability. Proximity functions worked but i noticed once that the fob acted as if it went “offline” & i had to insert it in the slot to wake it up. Once that was done, all functions resumed automatically. But yes it is aftermarket and Lock unlock trunk prox functions at door handle and within the car worked. However, the aftermarket did jot seem configured to raise the hardtop while the oem was able to at all times. This was not an inconvenience for the customer who just needed a functional fob as a spare just in case he’d lose one.

@@DFWAuto_Hack thanks mate... good luck in everything you do :) "ending in 147" ... what you mean? you reffer to oem number?

@@supersim1357 glad it helps buddy

@@DavidPetrisor thank you. I found out of trying everything possible b4 removing the cluster. Your info is an awesome confirmation. I had imagined this to be an Immo4 & i believed all Immo4 needed 7th byte

I usually get my keys from, Transponder Island or AKS. This was my 2nd programming session because the remote did not work upon programming the first time. This vehicle was manufactured in 2 kinds, one works on a 434mhz frequency while the other requires the 315 frequency. I ended up getting a 315 mhz from amazon. All good all done and car is still rocking and rolling with it.

@@QueenJaqua777 you got it sista

He be

@@ika4042 no it was jammed. From the symptoms they told me the car was showing, i suspected the ESL more than a key problem so I just provided the most power i could to help it release itself.

@@DFWAuto_Hackthank you for response. good luck 👍

Sorry i did not wanna produce the same content twice & i thought viewers would prefer a shorter video this time. As of the trim, i did not know what it was. I just thought if chose the first option then the second one if the forner one dis not work. Hope that helps

@@scorcher617 yes removing the chip would ve done it but i don’t like to remove chips because im not highly skilled at it yet. I have done it before but i always try a way around it. However, for the sake of versatility, i have a junkyard module i purchased several months ago to practice removing and reinstalling the chip till i master it. It is going to be my homework this weekend Thanks for chiming in. Blessings

@@scorcher617 you are not wrong. What i like about AR32 is the voltage can be set manually. For 93Cxx eeprom, 3.6 works best so inset the dip switch to 3.6v; Thanks for the info about what happens in the background of VVDI. I think you meant prog because prog is the reader and 2 is the decoder and key maker. So when i used prog, it showed the recommended voltage for the chip called VCC and i tried manipulating it to 3.6v like AR32 but it kept saying that i could damage the chip. I still tried at 3.6v but it was just failing. Read it with the default setting but when importing the file in vvdi2, it resulted into unknown file. Same thing happened with mini prog blue 03n. Actually mini prog was the fastest read of all. Second attempt and bam but vvdi2 said unknown again. Autel also has an internal switch, the feature is called “set” and it has two options l: default is 5v and second option is 3.3v; i tried that too in vain. But again yes, if i had removed the chip it woukd ve been done but again, i dont like that option until i become a master of it by self training.

@@scorcher617 the guy name is John. Very nice guy. I actually called him

@@DFWAuto_Hack Thanks for the reply , from your videos I have watched I know by watching, you are on it and know what’s going on , with your detailed reply others will know how take on new challenges without out giving up and they can learn a lot from you thanks for posting your videos keep up the good work.

Thanks buddy. Stay tuned.

@@mechanictechnician9206 i was not able to on this particular vehicle. Nothing worked

A few months ago i have uploaded a video that includes a remote if im not mistaken. Same for all Toy / Lexus. Press lock + unlock for 2 sec then Unlock or lock for 1 sec & watch out for a beep and programmer confirnation that it is successful. Key wise, im having a hard time with the inconsistency of the autel eeprom clip. I wrote the keys but having an absolute nightmarish time to write the keys data back to the eeprom to seal the procedure. Ill go for the test in a few to test. I only need 1 to start the vehicle.

Reading the chip looks intimidating. ruclips.net/video/nkMmFeq9tHk/видео.htmlsi=g9ZPQ_oc4nZjl17J

@@paul.melville.giles4378 why not?

Thanks for your recommendation my friend but when the alarm is active, programming any control becomes quite challenging & the programmers announces it and provides a specific step to access security in a timed fashion, which security access must be carried on at a specific time (when the bcm sends the signal with a double horn) and within a small period of time. The procedure went as planned everytime and the security access would start but became aborted almost instantly. It is possible that i missed something critical to perform it as I was overwhelmed from trying several times with several programmers after a long day and while being massacred by the mosquitoes in the country. To be continued. God bless you

@@DFWAuto_Hack y tú no tienes el Magnus Ford Active Alarm OBDII Adapter Ese dicen que se usa cuando sucede eso ,, suerte

Oh también intenta poniendo el código de la puerta si es que tiene

@@alejomeza9327no my friend. I did not get the easy one this time. Honestly, this truck being a base model, i was not worried about it because i’ve done worst than this & the expection to be done with it within 30-45mn is what killed me 😂

@@Locksmith.71 i have completed this procedure before several times. It just would not work this time. If you check my notes, i mention the door latch and the 2 chirps or horn. I heard them may be 20 times that night then the programmer try to take over snd fail. This was a base model (no supersonic sensors) so it shoulda been straightfwd but no way no matter what. I did this on harder to cook Fords, a 16 titaniun push button. I did not actually do the latch. I was in the car, did it w obdstar, its ford all keys lost cable and special adapter. Read immodata by obd and saved it then brought the saved file back up to perform the all keys lost

You’re not a locksmith if you buy a keycode. You called codesmith. Just a loser..

@@DFWAuto_Hack You need smart pro on these with adc-2020 emulator alarm will be deactivated in 2-3 mins then program as normal.

@@cheyenne1001i believe this. But i also believe that even though Smart pro is the ultimate weapon that can resolve this particular situation, other programmers such as Autel and Obdstar should be able to defeat this all keys lost with active alarm, understanding that it could be a bit more challenging. I have successfully performed this procedure with obd star in the past on a 2016 f150 push button whose security system seemed more encrypted than this base model 17 F150 with keyed ignition (uploaded on this youtube channel a few months ago. Thank you very much for your contribution, suggestion and valuable recommendation. Note: 2 things i found out i could ve tried from a smartpro broadcasted video are: 1- not attack at the first double horn heard but wait instead for another 10mn leading to a second double horn / chirp before accessing security. Or 2- identify the vehicle as a push button despite the vehicle actually being a keyed ignition, turn-to-start. I have yet to attempt these 2 methods to see if one or both could have resolved the problem. Blessings

@@nooneKey you are welcome. it is called “Autosmart 2019”; for the latest version, you must google “Autosmart 2021”

Gang??

Thank you In order to do this, you need: 1- P001 adapter 2- green pin bypass converter The long cable is the Obdstar X300 main cable

@@abbasnoor9568 i will have to have a customer request for that before i can.make a video about it. I hope you understand

@@kinngim5323 you are very much welcome

@@dmgueras H75. Ill have to read this later. Im working on an all keys lost with stolen ecm

@@DFWAuto_Hack ok

@@dmgueras you have dolphin automatic cutter like the one in my video?

@@DFWAuto_Hack yes

@@DFWAuto_Hack I used the decode key function and it still cut a wrong one

@@dmgueras use the “universal duplication” option instead then pick double sided

@@dmgueras no. Always program remote first. If it works cut key and then program chip to start

@@dmgueras all Fords before 2015 must have their remote programmed separately from thr chip to start. I always program the remote first before i even cut the key

@@DFWAuto_Hack How? I did not see in video.

@@dmgueras i have more than 1 akl on Ford so you should be able to find it in another video. It is an onboard procedure. Very simple. No need to the scanner. Ill share the link when i find it or will make another video showing you

@@HotTvify it happens. Lock too dry needing lubed or lock too dirt needing cleaned are usually the reasons; the last least usual is lock that was somewhat forced or somewhat damaged. You must always have wd40 or houdini to lube the lock and brake cleaner to clean it prior to lubing it as well as a test key to insert and remove several times from the lock then lishi again. I posted a 2019 Nissan Kicks all keys lost last week; same lishi and i was not able to get the right cuts, not even after a ridiculous 1hr trying. Got a key code from VIN and all my custs were off ( i still cant explain it); yet before the kick, i did a 2016 Altima all keys lost, same lishi and picked it in 30sec & made the key in less than 3mn.

@@alejomeza9327 No sé de qué estás hablando, pero tal vez te refieras al conector 12+8. El conector en estrella siempre es más fácil, así que nunca intento usar el 12+8.

@@DFWAuto_Hack en conector de Bypass Cable ADC2011 está debajo del timón ea un lado de OBII en algunos Ram