Видео

Clutch master’s stock weight Flywheel. I don’t have hondata to turn off the knock errors

Just gather all the right tools, and make sure you can get the cv axles out the way.

@@JustPhilTv21 I’ll have my bro and my homie from work come help. 3 heads better than 1

I’ve put probably about 20k miles on it. It’s been fine

My engagement is near the floor, pretty short engagement range but I just got used to driving it that way.

Since the axle was seized, I removed the knuckle from the lower control arm and just pried it out. But honestly the best thing to do is get a hub puller and press the axle out. I didn’t have one at the time, I bought one later when I had to replace the wheel bearings

@@JustPhilTv21 Ok cool bet thank you bro

😹😹😹 Yep

😹😹 this isn’t my first VQ. I already know my friend. This is the last VQ this car will see 😈

why? isn’t there more you have to do to do the rev up to de? you can’t even use the stock cd trans apparently so idk why go through all the trouble

i’m asking cause i have a rev up that will need an engine swap eventually

@sopretty43vr okay so here we go. The “DE” and “rev-up” have the same block and transmission. The difference is heads and tuning. The rev-up only came in 2 years. 05 and 06. In 07 they went back to the DE. They can be made reliable but they are fickle motors to begin with. The HR on the other hand which is 07-08 for g35 (only the reboot sedan got them and the 07+ 350z) they use a JK series transmission. Which again is the same as the CD009 but uses a different bellhousing, and uses an internal clutch slave. (They had their issues but that’s a lot to get into) I’ll make a video about this, soon.

Think you’re missing some Zero’s lol

also dont buy Gigabyte LOL

@@JustPhilTv21 I'm actually using Gigabyte, no problems here xD

@corazonxtreme1132 you’re quite fortunate lol

its sad that the world is in such a state, i hope things improve for those people

Copium

@@nbhobby ?

I had to delid and make some direct die mounts as well as undervolt

@@pineapplesderrr having to undervolt your very high end cpu just to get it to run properly is terrible product development on intels end. Saying it’s chilling is just making excuses for a hundred billion dollar business. There are no excuses.

@@nbhobby im not making excuses its the only way itll perform 😭 you like to get in fights with a lot of people i can tell. Hope u have a great day!

lol you have to be a certain age to get this

Shame on them for not wanting a flawed product. 😂

The title is satire bro, just clickbait 😹

@@GoonyMclinuxI’m not saying the product isn’t flawed or that the people who want to play Tekken 8 right now should find better activities to do. The people returning their CPUs are absolutely doing the right thing, it’s the fact this man thinks it’ll be the downfall of intel that isn’t cool. I’m not even sure he understands just how little percentage of Intel’s sales are represented by gaming CPUs, let alone gaming CPUs that will specifically let you run tekken. Like I already said this is borderline defamatory.

@@fullsend_irl Did you miss when motherboards were smoking AMD cpus? Every tech tuber on RUclips thrashed AMD for a month. 🤣

Bro, if you’re paying for top of the line, at the very fucking least it should work. Whats entitled about expecting my expensive shit to work?

This can't be happening

I stopped building with intel all together, I tell people no if they want an intel cpu.

I’m an amd guy but intel power consumption at idle is low. This is important when building a nas.

@@sasquatchphil89 what CPU? My ryzen 7 NAS idles at less than 10 watts cpu power which is literally nothing at less than a volt.

it's the same price if you calculate motherboard + cpu tho

Thanks, I’ll look into it

Yea it’s holding up, but I should probably upgrade it. Tbh my lsd is cooked, the extra clamp force wore it out even more than it already was. Eventually I’ll get a built transmission, and rebuild the motor for boost. But that won’t be for some time. I’m working on getting another car and getting out of debt.

@@JustPhilTv21 by the way, you super impressive doing it on the ground. I get doing like '90s hatch transmission on the ground but doing the k24 trans on the ground dropping the cradle that takes a lot of freaking grit.

Thanks man. The first time is always the hardest but if I had to do it again, I could probably knock it out in a day or 2. Definitely wouldn’t do it in the middle of summer, but at the time I really needed transportation.

It’s not particularly difficult if you have a lift and the right tools. just don’t skip any steps. I made it harder on myself by not pulling my cv axles out of the way, but they were seized to the hub at the time. For best access just drop the entire subframe and steering all together. Once everything is fully disconnected and out of the way it’s just a matter of lowering the engine for clearance and pulling the transmission off. Make sure you have the proper grease for the throw out bearing. And go ahead and get an aftermarket master/slave. also be aware that if you are not using a factory weight dual mass, you will need to tune the car, they cannot use a lightweight flywheel without one.

@@JustPhilTv21 thanks. I picked up an oem throw out bearing and the hybrid racing em1 cmc and slave. When you say lowering the engine what mounts have to come off? All of them? I have the hasport rear, hasport upper torque mount with an upgraded transmission mount as well. Could you lower the engine with just the rear mount and transmission mount? or do all all of them have to come off? Thank you for your time, and does the oil pan HAVE to come off? I’ve seen videos where it’s not necessary

I also have hondata, I’m pretty sure the misfire detection has to be turnt off. I may be wrong though. I am tuned, but other than that I appreciate the detailed response

The only mounts that need to come off are the rear and trans mount, and by lower I meant you tilt the motor because it will drop with those out. And no, I only pulled the oil pan because it had a leak already.

Not by much, I would suggest getting a larger diameter master and buy a new aftermarket slave

Clutch slip, if you can’t launch it hard and spin the wheels with TC off, then it’s probably time for a new one. My clutch still had some life at 110k but it had been driven hard. I really only needed to do the throw out bearing but I thought that would be pointless not to put a new clutch in.

@@JustPhilTv21 yea man from take off I struggle to pick Up speed and If i downshift I don’t go anywhere but my rpm’s don’t fly up either like if it was to be slipping

Well it may not slip, but the clamp force isn’t strong no either on the stock clutch tbh. Mine wouldn’t slip per say but it didn’t lock up the lsd like it should have either. Now I can clutch kick and spin through second on completely stock power.

@@JustPhilTv21 you recommend this clutch on mild to stock bolt ons ?

It performs exactly as designed. Granted the 400 is a bit aggressive for a daily especially combined with the solid lower engine mount, but after you get used to it, it makes the car really fun to drive, even on stock power. My recommendation would be the 300 unless you plan on boosting the car.

@@JustPhilTv21 yeah i do have the lower hasport mount. Is your car a daily? Just to give you a better understanding of my intentions and application. I pretty much daily it. I track it maybe once a month. Very light abuse. Semi slicks. I might boost in future but will stay na for maybe another yr through 2023. You think I can still have fun with the 300 the way I would a 400?

@@JustPhilTv21Do you need the engine mounts ?

I would recommend it, but it isn’t necessary

Did you replace the throw out bearing ? Also you may need to adjust your slave cylinder. I don’t know how it behaves with a stock slave because I deleted the plastic diaphragm inside of mine, or might I suggest getting an aftermarket one along with a master

@@JustPhilTv21 i have a hybrid racing cmc kit installed but it still does all these shudder and scratchy noises i did replace the throwout bearing with a oem one but still no luck

your stage 4 clutch is it smooth engagment no vibration or anything ? and also when your shifting gears and going in and letting off the clutch do you feel the gear that goes hard or smooth ?

i have heard that putting in a stage 4 it does damage to your tranny idk if its true or false but hows yours been holding up everything smooth nothing weird ?

Then my next guess would be your clutch slave needs to be extended out on the pedal to raise your engagement or your clutch is out of alignment. Or a bent clutch fork

No I used a factory weight flywheel

Whats the part number for this kit bro? Did you get it with the steel flywheel?

Trust me, if push comes to shove I’ll go rent a lift. I don’t plan on laying In the driveway anymore